Hiya everyone. Just bought this little guy for $650. Ran fine for about a month, and then it wouldn't start one day, after driving to the grocery store. It would crank, but not fire.

Well, the electronic gas gauge is broken in a way that it says it's always full. The odometer clicks on about half the time the truck is started, so I was kind of trying to estimate the fuel. I guess I let it run out, and I think I might have sucked in a bunch of gunk from the bottom of the tank.

After putting 5 gallons in the tank, I used starting fluid in the throttle body to get it running at the grocery store. I got it home, and parked it. I've started it a few times these last few days, and it fired just fine.

This morning I hopped in to go to work, and it would crank, but no fire. I tried the starting fluid trick again, but to no avail. I changed the fuel filter, and that still hasn't fixed it.

Now the blazer will only crank occasionally. I don't know if that's a wiring thing, or not. My father in law suggested that I clean the battery posts, because it could be not supplying enough amperage to crank.

I've currently got the battery on a charger, and am waiting for a ride for more starter fluid and a wire brush.

I've been told to test the bleeder ports on the fuel injector, but I can't until I can get it to crank. I'm hoping it's just a vapor lock, but I won't know until I get it crankin'.

After searching on this forum, I just pulled the hockey puck thing under the Vortec place, and it's soaked inside, and kinda gunky, all black.

Sorry for the big post, but I figured for toubleshooting purposes, the more info the better. Thanks all in advance!

Regan

EDIT: So, I got it to crank after charging the battery. Neither bleeder port is spitting fuel when it cranks. I also haven't been able to hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank when I turn the key, but I don't think I've ever been able to hear it.

 

You'll need to test the fuel pressure. The fuel pressure test port is located off the back of the upper intake manifold near the brake booster. It's difficult to see.

The pressure should be ~60psi with the key-on/engine-off and should not drop more than 5psi after the key is turned off. If you get no pressure, check the fuel pump relay on the firewall. It can be swapped with the horn relay right next to it. If the horn works on both relays, then they are both good.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I priced one of those test gauges, and they're $45. Not super steep, but I'm not even getting any fuel out of my test port when I push in the shraeder valve. I had fuel at first, then a puff of air, and now nothing.

I'm going to head to the auto store and buy a jumper wire when it opens. Now I just need to find out how/where to jump the system after the relay to see if that's the culprit, or it sounds like I'll be changing a fuel pump....

 

So, I'm still not getting any fuel out of the bleed/test port on the back of the manifold.

I'm not sure how to use a jumper wire, so I didn't buy one.

What I did find is 2 wires(red and blue) going from the fuel tank, running along the drivers side of the frame, and up to the drivers side of the engine compartment. The red one goes through a fuse maybe? But the blue one doesn't go anywhere. It comes up through the engine compartment, and just stops. Open wire.

Could this be why I'm not getting any juice to my fuel pump? I don't here any sound when I turn the key. No fuel coming from the bleed/test port.

Thanks for any reply.