Just put in a new AC Delco fuel pump this last weekend.
It ran fine for a couple days and then yesterday(Monday), on the way to work, it died rolling down the road! It wouldn't start back up. Check Gauges Light was on ? A couple hours later I came back with a friend to tow it to the house and it started up reluctantly and was able to limp it home.
Two months ago, after I first bought the car, it did the same thing and was fixed by replacing the EGR valve... Ran fine all that time till the fuel pump went South...
I just took the 2 months old EGR valve out and got a replacement. But it still won't start !!!
I bought a new coil and plugs hoping that this may be the problem ???
Will put these in this weekend.

Any other ideas or something that I have or haven't done???
Thanks.

 

Did you check the fuel pressure? Did you replace the fuel pump relay? Did you remove the manifold tuning valve and check for evidence of CPI leakage? The first thing you should do is verify that the fuel pump is pressurizing the system to 60psi. Next ensure that the pressure will hold for five minutes. That will verify that the pump is working properly.

The next thing I would check is the fuel pump relay. It's on the firewall near the brake booster. Make sure it's closing properly and supplying power to the pump. Once you've verified that the fuel delivery system is working you can move on to see if there are any other issues. Check any trouble codes that may have come up. They can potentially lead you to individual sensor problems.

 

Am borrowing a fuel pressure tester from AutoZone.
Can anyone explain how to do a leak-down test?
Thanks.

 

Hooke the gauge up to the test port. Turn key to ON position - pump should buzz - pressure should go up to around 60 or just under and stay there... Start truck, whats the running pressure?... Turn off, remove key, watch gauge - Does it drop off any in the next 5 minutes?

Give us these values:
Key On - (should be 55-60 or so and stay there)
Running - (should be around 55+ with very little fluctutation even when revving engine)
Key off - (should drop no lower than 50 over the next 5 minutes)

Make sure you have no leaks at the connection with the gauge - thread that sucker on nice and tight.

I also would like you to get the engine running, then reach in to the lower right of your EGR and wiggle/tug-on the blue and red wires that run into your manifold - what happens???

 

I won't be able to tell you what the fuel pressure is when running cause, it'll crank but won't start.

 

Can you get it to start by throwing a teaspoon full of raw gas into the throttlebody? Does it want to start at all? Get us the readings please. May want to pull out the plugs and dry them off, they are probably soaked in fuel and thus wont spark.

 

So checked the pressure and it was only 50 psi and didn't even hold 10 seconds before dropping.

I hope I can get by with just replacing the regulator and nut kit.
I cannot afford a new spider assembly.

What's up with this one nut in front of the distributor on the plenum?
How the hell do I get that off???

Can't see how to get in there with a wrench???

 

I dont recall there being any tough bolts on that job - you dont need to take out the distributor on this job to get into the plenum. The tough one is the one that holds the nut kit to the back of the intake, its a TORX bit T40 I think, its a bugger to get into man. You can always make a wrench that fits the distributor hold down bolt by heating a straight wrench with the torch and bending it over to 90 degrees - or buying a distributor wrench... Thats how I make a distributor wrench.