I have a plastic timing cover. This is crazy. You can only see the single timing mark with the fan shroud removed and the air intake removed. I also don't know how anyone would have set timing without the fan removed.

Thanks to electric fans, I don't have a fan or shroud in the way.

When I white outed the 2 marks on the harmonic balancer, I couldn't see them with the timing light. I then white outed the crank pulley where the timing marks correspond so I could get a remote idea where the timing marks when cyl1 fired off.

I am getting cyl1 ignition with the timing marks about -45ish degrees off and even more so with the other timing mark.

I tried to spin the harmonic balancer with 2 hands and I didn't feel any slack or play.

The truck runs fine, just a 1-2mpg lower than my friends identical trucks, slower in a race consistently, and gets hot when under a load which I attribute to timing being off. It's been this way for years and I could never figure out exactly why.

Did someone replace my timing cover with the new plastic ones, or did the 94 just come with it? My friends 93 and 92 has the normal timing cover that we have set timing on countless times. I am waiting to see my other friends 94 to see if he has the plastic cover.

I searched like crazy and couldn't get anywhere so here I am.


I posted this at s10forum AND fullsizechevy.

You guys are my last hope!

Tonight I did come to the realization that you might need a scanner to set timing? It this possible?

My scanner shows current timing and its bouncy with the timing connector disconnected. I was hoping for some kinda miracle. Well back to not knowing how to set timing.

V8 swap?

 

Have you pulled the distributor and inspected the drive gear? Erratic base timing could be caused by a wear on this gear.

 

I did not pull the distributor. Is erratic base timing an issue? It jumps around from 1-25 degrees with the signal wire unplugged. Plug it back in and restart the car, everything acts damn near the same.

When the timing light is hooked up and signal wire unplugged the light doesn't jump around.

 

The timing should not jump around with the timing wire located off the passenger side of the transmission hump inside the truck disconnected.

 

When the base timing wire is disconnected the timing gun is not erratic. The scanner timing readout however is but I think that is irrelevent. My problem is I lack a metal timing cover with timing grooves.

The timing cover I have is the composite/plastic cover that only has 1 little ridge that all the 95/96 and up computer controlled vehicles have. I have a blocked off port for the crank position sensor. I also have the standard cpi/tbi distributor that lacks the cam positioning sensor.

I have set timing to cpi engines, they all had the metal timing cover. I am fully baffled. It also appears that I cannot switch to the metal timing cover.

 

You could add your own timing marks... Or get one of those balancer timing tapes.

 

Swart I appreciate all of your help.

I will most likely end up doing that.

Mitchum simply says "set timing to 0*"

It goes through the normal timing procedure.

I'm just frustrated that there isn't a better way.

By the way, how do you like your Ranier? I was interested in getting an older trailblazer/ranier if I get a raise. How do they do offroad?

 

I really like my Rainier a lot. It is more powerful, handles much better, and is roomier than my old '00 Bravada. I had this thing up to 90MPH at a few spots on Watkins Glen International this summer and it was fun through the turns!

As far as offroad, for a stock truck, it does quite nicely. It doesn't hold a candle to my K5, but it holds its own just fine. There have been times that I wish I had low range (AWD), but the locker in back works good. They can be made to handle offroad quite well, but I don't really see me doing that to mine. That is what I have my K5 for. My Rainier is my DD.

But I think it will be getting replaced with a Tahoe when the time comes. My new camper is a handful for my Rainier. It can handle the camper, but I haven't driven it a long distance or tried too many hills yet. Nor have I really towed it in adverse weather...

 

Well timing was pretty simple...

I removed my harmonic balancer, noticed it was soaked in oil. I then proceeded to push it off of the ring it sat on. It took a little persuasion but eventually came apart.

I tried to do the same with my friends old HB to no avail. I also noticed that his #1 mark was just a few degrees off from where the cotter pin key was on the HB and mine started about 45* off.

I cleaned up his grooved HB as best as I could and after fighting the new timing cover on without dropping the pan installed his HB.

Set timing and off I went.

I just want everyone who has been (4 letter f word + ed) by Oreilly about them not honoring their warranty, I swapped my clearly stamped OE gm timing chain/sprockets for a set I previously purchased.

If you think Oreilly and all other autoparts chains are out there to help you and do right by you then you should sound off about my fraud at the off-topic section.

Ooh so tangents are a specialty of mine:

SET TIMING BY THE STUPID KEY ON THE COVER AND THE 2ND MARK OF THE HARMONIC BALANCER

This is best done with no fan/shroud/aircleaner assy. This is probably the most retarded timing setup ever made by gm.

 

So a failed part == "the most retarded timing setup ever made by gm"?? That doesn't really make sense, but glad you got it all figured out.