I'm not exactly following.. The battery has been out, I need to disable those two things for when I go to crank it.

I see Fuel Pump is ECM-B, now I just need to disable.. the ignition coil? Or if I get the spark plug wires out of the way maybe that will suffice..

 

Are these what I am going to need for the Blazer ?

Central Port Injection Fuel Return Lines SET for Chevy GMC Pickup Truck V6 4.3L

 

Unplug the connector at the ignition coil, that will disable it while cranking.

 

So far today...

1. On the Blazer, I turned the engine with no plugs in and the video will give me a rough glance at what came out.

Video ensues.


*Note to all watching: YES THERE WAS DEFINITELY WATER DOWN INSIDE THE CYLINDERS! AS WAS NOTED, IT GOT THERE IN EXTINGUISHING A FIRE FROM AN IDIOT HELPER MECHANIC. MAYBE I CAN DO ALL THIS MYSELF. ANYWAYS.. I ALSO PUT SOME MMO IN THERE OR "MARVEL MYSTERY OIL" AS A "PISTON SOAK" SO THAT WOULD EXPLAIN ANY RED STUFF. I ALSO BELIEVE WATER EVAPORATED, AS IT HAS BEEN HOT OUT HERE. I also should just leave that small puddle of MMO; When everything goes back on, I am sure it will get sucked in. Can't hurt. Won't do anything anyways.


So. How was that ?


*for that "weird stuff" I mentioned: I was referring to the "misting" you could see in the first two cranks.

Now is it just me, or does that starter start to slow down kinda fast. Or is that normal. ?

And I'm STILL not 100% on how it could have been "partially hydrolocked." the "5 cylinders" comment makes sense.. it probably was...

3rd


4th/last time on that crankin.


I did this a 5th time.. Blazer. (1994 S-10 4.3 VIN W.) I kind of think the liquid coming out is gasoline, since it doesn't stay where it is for very long. It is either that or water. What do you think?

 

have you used the search function. A picture is worth a thousand words, but if you can read us the codes it might let us help you.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...-engine-88423/


Oops, sorry, just noticed your posting all over the place.

 

Its really not worth your time honestly. He does not like to take peoples advice, this has been an ongoing thing for a couple years.

 

If you are going to be an ***, don't post.

Anyways. Work on the truck continues. I was thinking back to last year... A throwback to when it ran in December. ..

Mechanic is trying to game me and was mad it "eventually" started, since he had told me at the start of him looking at it that it wouldn't.

Part of that was the failing FPR but what was the other part..





Keep the advice coming, this is my first project and it is very very necessary. Without the help and boards I REALLY cant do it.


Also. A throwback to when it ran in December. ..

Mechanic is trying to game me and was mad it "eventually" started, since he had told me at the start of him looking at it that it wouldn't.

Part of that was the failing FPR but what was the other part..

Video is below.

 

I find Rich's point to be quite valid. Instead of using the recommendations of others, you seek answers to the same questions over and over again instead of putting some effort in yourself to find the answers you have been told exist on this forum. And you post the "Days of Our Lives" episodes on your "attempts" to repair your truck. Your videos are likely 10 times longer than they need to be to get to your intended point (if there really was one). And even extremely abbreviated, they still waste more time for those of us that may actually be able to help than a well constructed written post if you were to actually put forth the initiative to produce such a thing (hasn't happened yet and I'm not holding my breath).

I haven't been replying because I simply do not have the time to waste on someone that seemingly does not want to put in the effort to make it easier on me (us). I stopped putting extra effort in when I see little effort in return. Suffice to say that if I make mention of information being out there on the forum, you can find it if you put in the effort.

As an aside, please read and comprehend the rules of the forum if you want to stay a part of this community. You have been breaking quite a few lately, this very post is evidence of that.

Feel free to be offended by this post, but try not to resort to childish name calling as a means of letting others know how you feel. It only serves hurt the opinion others have of you.

Again, good luck with your issues.

*EDIT* - If you find any spelling errors, etc in this post, please forgive me. I am a few days out of distal bicep tendon reattachment surgery and have severe burns on the tips of all of the fingers on my left hand which makes typing quite tough.

 

I do not fully agree. In this thread, there WERE no "recommendations of others." If we look at the progression of this thread, I posted up how I removed the spark plugs, and showed pics. The first real post was by yourself, that alluded to that water probably got in when I extinguished the fire.. and you added that the thread had "no point." I should have specified that I was interested in getting the plugs read. A poster then explained how the bad plug was oil-fouled. "richphotos" came in and set a tone for the thread about having "nothing nice to say." I went and documented how I seem to perhaps be noticing water coming out of a cylinder, and that is where I'm at at this point.

A member posted about a thread about having water in the oil, but I do not have water in my oil. Still, I looked at the thread, and it does seem to be talking about Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. That is a possibility on why it is doing that.

He is correct that this "has been going on for awhile" but now it is in front of my house, where I have resources and tools to fix the problem. I been going out to it every day in an attempt to diagnose and work on it with what I can do. This never was the case.. though it has been sitting for at least a year and a half. More like two. It HAS to run SOON and that brings me to where I am!

I will probably hook up a compression tester on every cylinder but the one spitting water since I think that one ruined my last tester.

MOD swartlkk/richphotos: If you want me to do a better job of explaining issue I am having? I can do that. I will also be more concise.

MOD swartlkk/richphotos: If you want me to make shorter videos, consider it done. I believe everyone is familiar with my set-up, and what I am working with. Some people don't mind it, but for here, I'll shorten it up.

I can appreciate that it may be hard to help if I don't specify the issues the truck is having, so I will work on that. I don't want to alienate anyone. But some people probably feel like they don't know what they are helping.

So.. The point I am at with all this is to:
- Get another Fuel Pressure Regulator, since half of the old one burned up. QUESTION: Can new individual poppet lines be put back on the one side or both sides of it? I see two screws each holding in 3 if I look at it.

- Compression test it, just to see what I see. (It can't hurt.)

- Pressure test cooling system, if the water persists.

But when someone comes in and makes comments that seek to sum up my intent, or telling people to "don't bother," in essence.. I NEED to get this truck on the road, someway, somehow. It has been sitting in front of my house and even if not 100% perfect I need to get it to move. So I need this help from here. And hopefully this post can clear the air about this poster everyone is dealing with.

And I'll gladly check out those rules.. I can't think of which ones have been violated thus far, though I post frequently in an attempt to move this forward.

I hope you feel better after that surgery! I was going to go morning jog, I still have to while I have the momentum.. Again, let's go from here ok!

Sincerely, - Joseph



Here is delivering on that. Nice, short video.

SYMPTOM: Water sprays out of that cylinder. (*Will verify it is water, but it probably is... since it can't be gas. Gas is not hooked up FOR it to be gas, and is completely disconnected. And it's not oil spraying.)
PROBLEM: It's not supposed to.
OTHER INFO: Sat overnight/a day.
PURPOSE: To find out why it's doing that.
EDUCATED GUESSES PUT FORTH SO FAR: LIMG/Head Gasket (that side)

 

So I have taken your three threads that were all about your current situation and combined them. I will now attempt to answer the questions I have seen so far.

As far as the fire in the engine compartment is concerned, the following parts are what I would recommend changing out:

1. Internal fuel lines (aka 'nut kit') - yes, the picture you provided is the 'nut kit'
2. Entire injection spider - The individual poppet nozzles & lines are not separately available and attempting to install ones from a used donor spider will likely result in leaks which would be detrimental to performance.
3. New internal wiring to the injector - this part is fairly cheap and good insurance against a failed connector due potential heat damage from the fire.

You will also want to inspect all of the wiring outside of the lower intake for heat damage. Wires, whether in a harness or not, should be fairly easy to bend. If they feel hard, they are heat damaged and may break down the road. It would be a good idea to splice in good wire; soldering the connection & heat shrinking them or using some good quality (3M) heat shrink butt connectors if soldering is not something you have experience with.

As far as making sure you do not get spark or fuel, I think you already have that covered, but I'll reiterate. Disconnecting the multi-pin connector from the ignition coil will disable spark as Captain has stated. The fuel pump relay will be located on the firewall, but I do not recall off the top of my head which one is the fuel pump. Suffice to say that if you remove all of them, you'll be covered. As you have also found, the ECM-B fuse is what powers the fuel pump relay so that is also another means of disabling the pump.

As far as the water is concerned, it can take a while to clear all of the water from a cylinder especially if it is still in the long intake runners in the lower manifold. If you suspect a lower intake manifold gasket failure, you should check to see if the radiator level is dropping before jumping to that conclusion. You could also do a cooling system leak down test to confirm the system integrity. That typically consists of installing a special cap that has a gauge port on it as well as a port to either allow for manual application of pressure (hand pump) or regulated shop air, bringing the system up to 16psi which it should hold. I would hold off on the cooling system issues (if there are any) until you get the motor running again. This is especially true if you are not getting any water in the oil. You'll know its in the oil as it will turn the oil into a chocolate milkshake.

A lot to take in, so here's a brief synopsis of my recommendations and the direction I would go from here. Install the new fuel system parts and test the fuel system for leaks. Then get the upper intake plenum back on. Install new plugs (cap, rotor, wires if you think they need to be replaced) and check the engine timing (timing light with the timing wire disconnected inside the truck - spec is 0 degrees). Let'er rip. See how it runs at that point. If it is loosing coolant, tackle that job next.

If it runs, then put some miles on it and then look at the condition of the plugs. That will tell you a lot more about what is going on with the engine without influence from past vices.