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Rear Defroster

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  #1  
Old 12-14-2008, 02:58 PM
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Default Rear Defroster

Has anyone succesfully repaired the defroster on a 1st gen blazer?

I was replacing the lift supports and when I disconnected the grounds they came off the window.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:31 PM
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Default RE: Rear Defroster

MOVED TO 1ST GEN TECH


 
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:07 PM
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Default RE: Rear Defroster

I'd love to know this too. When I got my 94, one of the wires was broke and the other one was so stiff that it broke the tab off the gas cylinder on the other side. Is there a way to replace the wires? If so, where can you get replacements?
 
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:10 PM
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Default RE: Rear Defroster

Google 'rear defroster repair' and have a look around.
 
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:31 PM
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Default RE: Rear Defroster

My rear defroster also stopped working today, and it needs to before I can get a safety certificate. However, the switch isn't even lighting up - is this a bad switch or a fuse blown? If so, which fuse should this fall under? Sorry to thread jack, just didn't think this warranted a new thread.
 
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:23 PM
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Default RE: Rear Defroster

When I bought my Blazer, the rear defroster didn't work due to a similar situation. The previous owner replaced the gas struts, and must've broken off the spade terminal on the ground side of the window (passenger side on mine). The wire was still attached to the glass, though was pretty close to coming off completely, so I just took it the rest of the way off. I then took a length of wire about the same thickness (gauge) as the original, and soldered it to the window farther up the braided cable on the side. The other end I soldered directly to the wire coming out of the back of the Blazer itself. After a couple of zip-ties to attach it to the strut so it wasn't just hanging there, it works just fine now.

If your gas strut still has the tabs, and it was just the wire connecting it to the glass that came off, you should be able to just solder it back onto the spot where it came off at. It should be fairly easy to spot where it broke free from, since the solder joint there will probably still have some pieces of wire sticking out of it. That would most likely be your best solution.

As far as the post from Octane, yeah check your fuses first. Since the switch isn't even lighting up, either you have a blown fuse, a bad wire somewhere, or the switch itself is unplugged or defective.

Hope this helps!
 
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