hey so im wanting to do a solid axle swap for my 93 4.3 liter 4door s10 blazer. This is what im looking at doing.
Dana 30 off a jeep cherokee
Convert it to leaf spring set up
Buy the Sky Manufacturing SAS kit
Scrap 31.5 inch leafs off a 70s-80s 4x4 chevy

I want to see your guys' response to this but i have some questions about the transfer case and the computer that i dont know what to do.
Thanks guys

 

OK so major questions...
1.Will the front drive-shaft be spinning the right direction for the dana30?
2.Will i be in 4x4 all the time?
3.Will the vacuum switch still be needed for the transfercase part of the switch?
Im not sure how the 4x4 works on it at the moment but i have an idea... your front dif. is working all the time but when i push the 4hi the vacuum actuator under the battery tray pulls the line and it pulls the transfercase into position then instead of just moving from momentum it pulls its own weight through the transmission.
4.Is this basically right?

P.S. I do body work but im a mechanic when called upon lol (which most of the time means just figuring out whats wrong and replacing it)

 

You will not be in 4x4 all the time. under normal operation if the transfer case is in 2hi the front shaft is disengaged.
The vacuum actuator took the place of hubs to lock. So if you have hubs now you wont need any of the vacuum crap.

 

As long as it's geared correct, and you install the ABS(assuming you have it) sensors, the ECU won't know anything has changed.


1. Yes
2. No. As long as you hook up the CAD on the D30 it will work like factory.
3. Switch and control can be pulled from XJ
4. Yes, it's a good start.

 

Thanks Diaita but will i need to switch over to the jeep switch? can i keep the same transfercase and switch i have now? Do most of the newer jeeps D30s have ABS? and if not what can i do to keep the ABS sensor from throwing the computer off if i dont have it plugged in? i have heard of people just taking the fuze out but idk and thanks AndrewO1991 it wont have the locking hubs.

 

It should be just a matter of re-routing vacuum lines, and wiring in the switch. I'm sure there is info online about the specifics.

I have read about guys using the unit bearings from the S10 on the Jeep axles to keep the correct bolt pattern, but again, not sure on specifics.

When I swapped axles, I removed the ABS completely. With the 33" tires the ABS seemed to get confused and it didn't stop well.

 

why would i have to reroute the lines if i keep the original switch and actuator?
i have been wondering about switching the bearings im using the dana 30 because its almost the exact stance as my factory IFS width wise and i want to keep my original aluminum 15 inch factory rims and i would have to get a conversion thing and it would ruin the stance.
Diaita what axle do you have under your blazer? and how did you completely gut the ABS? will it not throw codes if the sensors arnt in?
Im looking forward to about 6 inches of lift with the axle swap and like 33-35 inch tires. im told this is dangerous but idk im looking at some different ways to streangthen the d30 but you can spend an arm and a leg so IDK

 

My axles are Toyota Landcruiser/Pickup hybrids. There is nothing bolt in about it. I removed the ABS module on mine and rewired the brake fail switch so the ABS light disappeared. Then I plumbed the brakes like any pre ABS vehicle with a 5 port proportioning valve. Your '93 is just a matter of unplugging the ABS module if I recall.

In my opinion, if you want 35" tires you should consider Dana 44s (ie Waggy). The Dana 30 can be built to handle 35s, but it will probably cost more in the end. $.02

 

As in Jeep waggoner (IE Waggy) i have thought about the 44 everyone tells me thats what i need to do but its the fact idk where to look for one. Ford had some im told, do you know if i could take a d66 off of an 80s chevy and flip it? how hard would it be to switch the sides? ik i would have to fab the mounts for the shocks and the leafs but thats not to hard and i can buy parts and basically just weld them on.

 

You don't have to run D44 axles, it just reduces the chances of breaking parts regularly. D30/D35/Ford 8.8 have been used by a lot of guys with little problem, and aftermarket upgrade parts are readily available if you find weaknesses.

You can't just flip an axle(not easily anyway), the gears would be trying to drive you backward among other problems. You need an axle from a vehicle that has the driveshaft on the correct side. Ford and Dodge trucks did, but they are a lot wider than your truck. Early Bronco could work too, but are getting rare.