Hello all! First post.

I have a.. let's see if I can get the full long name right, this Blazer had every name: 1993 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer Tahoe LT. I think I got it!

Truck has.. 182.005 miles, "new to me." Has: (since 181,xxx miles)
BRAND NEW:
- Alternator. I will add in a pic very soon.



So, I am now looking for things to replace and tune up on her. I found the fuel filter. If I can figure out how to remove its bracket, I think I can get it! Let me just confirm:

I need..
- open-ended normal crescent wrench.. ? (What size? Two different sizes, for two different ends?)
- Do it first thing in A.M. so everything is cold and not pressurized?
- How do I get its bracket off?
- I have begun spraying the ends that screw in with PB blaster.

Then, do I:

1. Loosen fuel filter bracket
2. Loosen, but do not disconnect, both sides..
3. Un-do side closest to fuel tank, and QUICKLY screw on new filter, due to oozing gas?
4. Repeat for the other end, as it may be wanting to come out other end too?
5. Tighten up all connections, put bracket back in/on, start her up and I'm done?



THANKS! And happy to be here!

 

ok,
couple of things.
can be done anytime of the day. you need to release the fuel pressure up at the engine at the valve on the fuel lines. i have a 99 so i am not sure where yours is located.

use some pb blaster or similar product to help with the threaded end (yes)...most likely is rusted up and going to fight you to come off. if it is difficult make sure you dont twist the fuel line and bend/kink it.

it wont matter which end you undue first in my exp, your still going to have fuel pour out on you.

putting it back on you may be well served to use some anti-seize to help with the next time you have to change it out...that depends though.

all in all it looks like your off to a good start and have done your homework. on tools though use a tubing wrench to avoid rounding the connectors out.

 

it might help if you get a drill bit or something to stick in the ends of the lines to keep most of the fuel from spillin out. i kinked my lines when i did mine, (its darn near impossible to see what your doing because its on top of the frame) and had to cut the steel past the kink and replace with fuel rated rubber with some hose clamps.

just telling you what i did to maybe help you out if you run into that problem.

 

Thanks, all! I like that idea about the drill bit. What size fits in there well?

Also, since I seem to have gotten a warm greeting and reception here.. Last night, I fixed my misaligned shifter indication. I made two videos.. Well, two sets of two videos. Two are a walkaround, and two are me fixing that problem! I will share.

The two walkaround videos:

1. 2.
And, the ****ter indicator fix (I did pinch it down as hard as I could, I saw a piece had broken off the plastic of the ring on the column!! I got it tight, even put the cable on "upside down" to get more tension.. I tried it, I think it will now stick. I thought I had to do more.. glad it was that easy!)

1. Finding issue: 2. SOLVING issue (runs well, as it did)

 

sometimes you can get lucky with the filter and one of the two nuts will turn freely
If it does hold the other nut and turn the filter off the line

Another trick is rattling the nuts with an air chisel/punch

 

as for relieving the pressure, what I have done is remove the fuel pump relay, and turn the engine over.

 

I think the fuel filter nuts are going to be 15mm and 17mm. I just crack em loose and let the gas spill out on the ground. Even when venting the remaining pressure at the shrader valve, there is still going to be leakage.

I break both ends of the lines free first, THEN undo the clamp that holds it on. This helps keep you from twisting the fuel lines.

Nice to see a digital dash that actually works properly... Had to replace mine.

Also, when are we gonna be helping you fix that engine light problem? I see your SES light is on.

 

Thank you, kind sir! I just did a LOT of reading about OBD1 today, and learned a few things. Still don't know how to clear the codes, and all my OBD2 Actron scanner does when plugged in is lock or unlock ALL the electronic locks in the truck....

Anyways, I learned all about how to "Bend a paperclip into a U shape, and short pins A and B, in the upper right." Did that. Then, I learned about the 1 then 2 "handshake" displaying three times; Since this is the first time in my life that I did this, I thought I had Code 12, at first. Then, after watching and reading.. Turns out it is Code 43.



So, I also would like to know if there is ANY way to change the spark plugs (and distributor cap, which II have.. and rotor, which I have.. and I have a Torx T15 and T20, as per a Youtube video.. and wires, which I do not have..) from the TOP, as I have done so twice before.

As to the code thing, my spark plugs are mismatched.. P/O put Bosch Platinum+2s in, and now 2 of them are AC Delco CR43TS, due to taking it to a shop..

My battery is presently charging. It seems to have 13.4V resting voltage. When the CTEK charges it, it displays 14.35V. I need to go snap a pic of that brand new alternator, I guess. I may even go drive it. And maybe tomorrow that pic will come.. Alternator is SHINY AND NEW, but needed ts wires hoked up correctly.

And I will also go check out 15mm and 17mm crescent wrenches.. (that big?) I will check that out.. But, yes, please tell me about the SES light, since I am presently flushing the cooling system with every soap/cleaning agent imagineable, and really going OCD with it and adding a lot of water and continuously swapping that out Thanks!