valve stem seal replacement
#1
valve stem seal replacement
I'm doing a valve stem seal replacement on a 93, w engine with 154k miles with the heads on. Pretty rough job but i'll get it.
The first two exaust valves had just a little of the old seal left. No bonnet or anything. I bought the truck used, It has been smoking when it sits awhile when I crank it up. Not using much oil at all.
The drivers side looks like it will be a bears hinney to use the valve spring tool on but.... any tips?
The fuel supply line under the plenum had a slit in it. Replaced those.
It's has a 35 code. IAC
The first two exaust valves had just a little of the old seal left. No bonnet or anything. I bought the truck used, It has been smoking when it sits awhile when I crank it up. Not using much oil at all.
The drivers side looks like it will be a bears hinney to use the valve spring tool on but.... any tips?
The fuel supply line under the plenum had a slit in it. Replaced those.
It's has a 35 code. IAC
#3
Finished the valve job. a few tips,driver side plenum was very clean. had a major fuel leak. replaced the "nut kit".
put the gear shift in 1.
pivot the alternator toward the fender,
the exaust valve spring next to the brake booster will take some work to compress, I had to adapt the compressor on loan from the parts store and then put it back like it was because the handle was too long.
not too bad a job, and no more smoke!!!
put the gear shift in 1.
pivot the alternator toward the fender,
the exaust valve spring next to the brake booster will take some work to compress, I had to adapt the compressor on loan from the parts store and then put it back like it was because the handle was too long.
not too bad a job, and no more smoke!!!
#4
I just finished mine too. A bit more involved than I had originally thought. Took me 2-3 hours for cylinder. That was inserting rope and cleaning the parts. The heads were rather sludgy too. My compressor would not fit no matter what on that last spring by the brake booster. The handle on mine can not be easily modded. So I had to buy the pry bar style one, so now I have both. Luckily for you, you have a torque rating for the valve lash and rockers. That was the only thing that has me a little worried. I double and triple checked mine though. Still be a bit before I can test fire it.
#5
#6
Yes getting the o-ring on was a little tricky. I mostly worried about the damn spring compressor letting go and firing right at me. I used a small flat blade to get it slide down past the lock groove. Then I used the seal installation tube to seat the o ring. I just marked the tube for how far down it had to be. Drivers valve cover was a pain in the *** to remove and install again. Then it just kinda fell into place by itself almost, hah.
#7
Finished mine up this morning. Started right up and no smoke. Success! Drove it for a bit and then did an oil/filter change. Drove it some more and still good. On to the next project........
Last edited by Licklog; 12-04-2009 at 08:49 PM.
#8
The driver side valve cover going back in just fell in after I put the gear shift in 1 and pivoted the alternator in toward the driver fender.
The exaust valve under the brake booster was as bad as it looked like it would be.... A tool with one finger a little longer than the other would have been nice.
I used a little contact cement on the cover side of the valve gasket. They kept coming off' (somebody else can worry with that later)
It was a good job. I would recommend it to a do it yourself IF you got a little cool.
The exaust valve under the brake booster was as bad as it looked like it would be.... A tool with one finger a little longer than the other would have been nice.
I used a little contact cement on the cover side of the valve gasket. They kept coming off' (somebody else can worry with that later)
It was a good job. I would recommend it to a do it yourself IF you got a little cool.