Hi all,
This is my first post to this forum but I was reading a lot from it yesterday as I was sitting in my blazer waiting to be picked up because it died on me again... So just to let you know, I know ever little about cars but plan on getting a good tech book (any recommendations?) so I can learn to fix minor things myself... so explain it well if you could please, I am a begginer!

Here is the problem:
So for the past several weeks I have been noticing a major lack in engine performance. About a week prior to the car dying,I noticed I had to accelerate very slowly or else it felt as if the trnasmission would not "catch" to the next gear (especially up hill or going onto the freeway). It would also "knock" when I braked or accelerated sometimes (which I beleive is the uiversial joint but thats not my main concern right now).

So the main problem is this: within the past week, the car has been sputtering if I accelerated too fast. It acts like its not getting fuel although the fuel was full. Last weekend, I was driving home (I live on top of a 4 mile 15 switch-back hill) and it really did not like going up hill and acted up sputtering which would make the car slow down to lack of fuel (I beleive) then catch up and basically just felt like it was running out of gas although it was full. It died half way up the hill.

It turns over and wont go on. If I let it sit for an 1/2 hour or longer (seems to be better, like a few days later is will start again but do the same thing eventually) it will start for a couple seconds, caugh then die?

I had it towed to my mechanic and was there for the entire past week, then my wifes car overheated and she had to get towed there. Miraculously (probaly because of the # of days it was idle?) She was able to get it to start and drive it home and I was able to drive it for two days then it died on me yesterday going home... (According to my wife, our mechanic said he been test driving it and was trying to see why it was dying on me but it never happened to him?)

So here is what has been changed in it within this last years (all new):
fuel pump
water pump
fuel injection
fuel guage
spark plugs
battery
tires
(all according to my wife when she had the car before I)
The car also has 19x,xxx miles which I know is very high but I figured with all the new fuel replacment parts I dont see why it acts like its not getting fuel...

It also just came to mind that since I put 2 10" subs in it (with of course the power wire to battery) it has been doing this. Could the bass be making it act up?

I apologize for such a long post, I just am so frustrated with my wifes and my cars not liking us that I had to get some advice from real experts so when I take it to the shop I can let them know some possiblities without the doing everything and getting ripped off, or possibly learning how to do it myself!

Thank you for your time and your advice, it is greatly appreciated!!
Dino

 

Definitive best reference book is a Factory Service Manual. Expensive, but there is none better. They can sometimes be found on eBay for lower than retail price, but HelmInc.com still sells them brand new for $135 (3 book set).

Your truck has the CPI engine (CPI = central port injection) that is known to have problems with the injection system. Specifically fuel leaks inside the engine. Get a hold of a fuel pressure test gauge and observe the pressure with the key on, engine off, during the initial pump priming cycle. This value should exceed 55psi at a bare minimum, but should be 60psi or greater. The second part of the test is the leak down test. 10 minutes after the pump shuts off, the pressure should not drop below 50psi. If it does, you have a leak somewhere in the system.

The most common source of an internal fuel leak is the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). The 2nd most common source of an internal fuel leak is the 'nut kit' (internal fuel lines). Check out the Tech Article (DIY) Index in my signature for a how-to on the FPR/nut-kit.

A faulty check valve in the fuel pump assembly could also be at fault if you have excessive leak down. This is diagnosed by adapting the gauge to the fuel pump connection which will isolate the pump from the engine.