2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

2000 GMC Jimmy A/C Question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 08-19-2010, 09:03 PM
porkfriedrice's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 308
porkfriedrice is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by helo
You can swap the condenser, hoses, and orifice yourself to save on labor, but the shop will have to install the accumulator when they do the A/C service (has to be installed immediately before they draw vacuum).
Hmm. Can you elaborate? No one else has mentioned that about the accumulator, Haynes doesn't mention it either. I'd rather not screw anything up if you're right though. It's a learning process here for me. Thanks for the reply.

Since the cost of getting the A/C working is going to be relatively high, I may or may not put this off. There's some other things that need attention besides a luxury item like the A/C. I'd still like to learn though, for when the time comes that I do want to fix it. Thanks guys.
 
  #22  
Old 08-20-2010, 03:45 PM
helo's Avatar
Starting Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 153
helo is on a distinguished road
Default

Yeah it's kind of late in the year to do A/C depending on where you live. If you do it, make sure you run the compressor for 5-10 minutes every week or two in the winter to keep the new seal lubricated. I'd say it'll cost at least $400-$500 to do it (pressure switches, hoses, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, compressor, A/C tech labor+freon).

It is really nice having A/C if money isn't too tight =).

accumulator/receiver/drier is the same thing different name depending on the application. It is a moisture absorbing canister. On the blazer it's between the evaporator and compressor next to the battery. The core goes bad eventually and it can't absorb moisture out of the r134a anymore. You definitely need one based on that picture you posted. When the system is open, the accumulator absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and it's most certainly saturated. When you buy a new one it has plastic end caps threaded onto the fittings and it's slightly pressurized with nitrogen gas. As I said, let the tech install that when he does the A/C service.

Haynes isn't exactly an A/C repair guide.. I think there are some decent articles on this site, otherwise google is your best friend for learning about A/C. FYI, you have to add pag100 oil to any new components and lube all the O-rings. I forget where I found the oil quantities. I think the blazer is a GM "HT-6" A/C system.

They only thing you really don't need to worry about is the evaporator. Odds are the condenser has a bunch of debris in it from the blown compressor seal, so I'd recommend spending the $80 or whatever for a new one from rockauto.com. Your original pressure switches might be good, but they also might get stuck after a few days/weeks/months...
 
  #23  
Old 09-03-2010, 04:17 AM
porkfriedrice's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 308
porkfriedrice is on a distinguished road
Default

So I plan on orderig the parts that I need for the a/c soon, and I had a question about the compressor options on rockauto.com. What are the differences between the ACDelco compressors, such as #1521729A, #1521729, #1520145, #1522220, #1521586, etc? Some have o-rings included in the description, others just seem to have a difference in price. Not sure which one to order. My inclination is to go with the cheapest one, of course, but I don't want to be missing parts that I need, such as those O-rings. If someone could guide me, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
 
  #24  
Old 09-23-2010, 04:17 AM
porkfriedrice's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 308
porkfriedrice is on a distinguished road
Default

So I'm still looking into replacing the compressor on my Jimmy. Summer's over, but what the hell, might as well have it ready for next year. So my new question is about the PAG oil. Before replacing the various parts, I will have the system evacuated and flushed. Does the flush take out all the PAG in the system? The table that Kyle posted in this thread is helpful:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/how-much-pag-oil-where-24039/
I know that I will have to add the oil to the compressor and accumulator, but according to the table, that is only about a total of 4 oz. According to this thread:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-articles-diy-29/flux-air-conditioning-part-3-recharging-46165/
the system takes 8 oz of PAG. How do I add the remaining amount of PAG that is needed to the system? That is, if the flush actually flushes out ALL of the oil. The table from the first thread above says that 1 oz must be added to the hoses, 1 oz to the condenser, and 3 oz to the evaporator. Since I'm not replacing the condensor or evaporator, how do I get the oil in them? I'll appreciate any help. Thank you.
edit: Will the remaining oil be added along with the r134a at the shop when I have them evacuate and recharged?
 

Last edited by porkfriedrice; 09-24-2010 at 05:04 AM.
  #25  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:21 PM
C210M's Avatar
Beginning Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Englewood, Florida
Posts: 40
C210M is on a distinguished road
Default Evacuate and recharge

What is a fair price to have a shop evacuate and recharge my air conditioning system
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bdude273
Lighting & Electrical
0
11-22-2013 08:30 PM
mjsk5blazer
Lighting & Electrical
2
11-29-2010 08:15 PM
londonmazda
General Chat
0
10-19-2010 02:15 AM
Charleen53
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
0
11-03-2009 02:06 PM
jfoy1984
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
3
05-10-2007 09:24 PM



Quick Reply: 2000 GMC Jimmy A/C Question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:29 AM.