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2000 GMC jimmy SLT 4.3 crank no start HELP!!

  #11  
Old 11-03-2016, 08:17 AM
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Thanks for the detail. I think your problem lies in the definition of TDC#1.

It is true that you found TDC on #1 cylinder using your method. Problem is that for the purposes of dropping distributor in, it needs to be TDC#1 on compression stroke (small detail typically left out) - and that happens only every other time the #1 piston comes up to TDC. See the problem here?

I would suggest a very easy test. Pull #1 spark plug, disable coil, remove distributor cap, and have someone crank the engine while you stick your finger in the spark plug hole and watch the rotor. Engine should blow your finger out of the hole a bit before the rotor gets to the stamped #6. If compression happens with rotor pointing to opposite side of the distributor, you have the distributor 180 out. If compression doesn't happen or if rotor doesn't turn or turns erratically, then you have bigger problems (possibly timing chain issues).

There are two ways to tell if you are on the compression stroke.
1) A pulse of compression right before crank timing marks come into alignment
2) or both valves are closed when crank timing marks are aligned (requires valve cover to be off)

On the Blazer, for aligning crank timing marks - one mark should line up with the mark on timing cover, and the other should be pretty much straight down.

Rockp2 and I are saying pretty much exactly the same thing - just a bit differently.

good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 11-03-2016 at 08:25 AM.
  #12  
Old 11-03-2016, 07:18 PM
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update: i was 180 out. Put TDC on the compression stroke this time, the right way, dropped the dist and started right up!
went to take a test drive and its started boggin down and sounded like it was misfiring, started coming back home and it died and no codes.
pulled in the driveway hooked the scanner up just to see if there was a code and i got P0341 CMP sensor performance and P0339 CKP sensor Circuit Intermittent.
I havent tried anything to it yet so i will check the msgs for ideas and ill try them in the morning thanks
 
  #13  
Old 11-03-2016, 07:55 PM
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You need to attach a scanner capable of reading live cam retard data and adjust the distributor so that the cam sensor reads 0 +/-2. Until you do that you won't get it to run properly. To adjust this you will need to oval out the distributor hold down clamp a bit so that you can rotate the distributor a touch to get within spec. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE UNTIL YOU DO THIS OR YOU WILL BE WASTING TIME!
 
  #14  
Old 11-04-2016, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Nativewayz
update: i was 180 out. Put TDC on the compression stroke this time, the right way, dropped the dist and started right up!
went to take a test drive and its started boggin down and sounded like it was misfiring, started coming back home and it died and no codes.
pulled in the driveway hooked the scanner up just to see if there was a code and i got P0341 CMP sensor performance and P0339 CKP sensor Circuit Intermittent.
I havent tried anything to it yet so i will check the msgs for ideas and ill try them in the morning thanks
Clear the codes - verify they are cleared - and see if they come back.
 
  #15  
Old 11-05-2016, 12:11 PM
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I cleared them with my scanner and they didnt come back but now it wont start. I haven't been able to get a scanner that can do the timing yet waiting on some friends to be able to come over and do that first.
 
  #16  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:57 PM
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Has to run before you can check cam retard

so get a spark plug and disconnect the coil wire from the distributor. Connect the spark plug to that and ground the spark plug. Crank the engine and look for a steady spark. If spark you can rule out a lot of things. Report please.
 
  #17  
Old 11-08-2016, 02:40 PM
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Its been a couple days so here's what I just tried today:
charged battery, added 5 gallons of fuel, can hear fuel pump turn on, got fuel to the injectors, checked for spark at the coil wire and to #1 spark plug and i do have spark to both places, it was the closest but have not checked all spark plugs.
It turns over hits one time but will not start. I do have another fuel pump on the way as this was a pump from pullapart and the leveler didn't work anyway.
I turned the distributor as much as I could with the bolt out but did not oval out the hold down bolt area yet, question-If I pull the dist out and oval the bolt hole out, do I set it back to TDC again or just mark where the rotor points and drop it back in?
Bout to go out and pull all my plugs to see what they look like and test if I have spark to all
 
  #18  
Old 11-08-2016, 06:48 PM
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How do you know you have fuel at the injectors? Just because the pump turns on doesn't mean it's working properly. Personally I'd just pry the hold down clamp off without removing the dizzy if you really think you have it in the correct position.
 
  #19  
Old 11-10-2016, 05:04 PM
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So here's an update on my Jimmy:
Took out all plugs and broke 2 on accident so I just replaced all wires and plugs and fuel pump came in and put that in also. Redone TDC after everything was back in and still wont start, sounds like it wants to but almost sounds like im getting barely any fuel. Getting fuel to the pressure valve.
The only other thing i can think of is has to be my injectors.
I've rechecked spark to my plugs and its there, just doesnt sound like im getting fuel to the cylinders.
Thats the only other thing i can think of right now.
 
  #20  
Old 11-10-2016, 05:05 PM
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Also,I am not getting any codes whatsoever.
 

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