Spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body while trying to start and see if the engine fires up for a second so you can narrow down if it is fuel or fire. Leave the MAF sensor and IAT sensor in place in and don't disconnect them.

 

sorry its been a min got sick and wastnt able to work on the truck.
I went out and tried to start with carb cleaner and it almost started, got a crnka sensor code again and tested the sensor and the sensor was no good.
I feel dumb but when i put the new crank sensor in i forgot to unhook the battery and it shorted it out, haste makes waste, so now i have to wait till i get enough money for the new crank sensors, 1 for my Jimmy and 1 for my Blazer.

 

SO new crank sensor came in, disconnected the battery, installed new sensor, hooked battery back up, prayed, jimmy started right up only to die a couple mins later. Looked like my battery wasnt fully charged, charged battery started up and then now its back to crank no start, service engine light is on but getting no codes.
The only thing i can think of is that its the wiring to the sensor is loose by the connection, going to pullapart tmrw and getting a new pig tail and maybe a sensor or 3.

 

Redid crank sensor, gave me a p0336 CKP Sensor A circuit performance.
All fuses are still good. so that's not the problem.
Same code as before.
I got 2 crank connectors and crank sensors from pullapart. The only thing I can think of is that the connector is loose and that's causing the short, before I do that I'm going to back track the wires to the pcm and see if there's a short around there. I've already probed and tested the connections before and it tells me I'm getting volts and continuity.
The next thing i can only think of is take the timing cover off and see if theres anything in the reluctor ring... I don't know what else to do, it keep throwing CKP codes.

 

The air space between your crank sensor and the reluctor wheel is critical. You've done a lot of on off with the timing cover and crank sensor. I know the timing cover is supposed to be a one use only. I'm wondering if that air space is screwed up because the silicone "ish" gasket material is too far gone. Or maybe the timing cover is skewed to one side or the other and screwing up that air space. Be very **** about the placement of your timing cover and check out the mounting hole for your CKP to insure it isn't screwed up at all.

 

Finally got back to the truck after being sick for a month and the hectic holidays.
I found out I had a short in the wire from the CKP sensor to the ignition coil, redid that wire and still getting a couple codes P0300 misfire; no certain cylinder. P0337; CKP low frequency, P0341; CPS sensor performance. I haven't redone my timing cover yet, but thats about to happen since i have money now, could that cause the misfire or could it be the wiring to the CPS, cause I have moved those wires around a lot.
It will start and run go down the street but the codes pop up everytime, if i clear them with my scanner they pop right back up obviously. Could it be the connector to the ignition coil cause thats where i found the first short or could it be the connector to the Cam sensor, since i was messing with the dizzy alot.
When its started I jiggle the wires at all 3 places, CPS, CKP sensor and at the igntion coil and nothing happens and no codes show up until im driving down the road.
Thanks again in advance for the help.

 

What is the first code that is listed? That's where you start. Also , just FYI, cam sensor is CMP.

 

yep, rechecking everything ive done. lol
everyday i look at it and think to myself, what did i do or didnt do? lol
I'll figure this puzzle out.
and thanks for the correction.

 

You want to work on the first code first. Problems with that can cause other codes. So fixing the first one may correct the second one. What's the first code?

 

first code was P0300