2001 Blazer Air Conditioning Problem
#1
2001 Blazer Air Conditioning Problem
Took my 2dr, RW/dr 2001 Blazer LS, in for air conditioning recharge. However, the tech said in only took in less than a can of coolant and the air wouldn't get cold. Tech stated it appears that I have some sort of compressor problem. Any suggestions my blazer comrades?
Last edited by dannydblazer; 08-15-2010 at 06:43 AM. Reason: to be more accurate with the description of my blazer
#2
What was the reason you took it in for a recharge? Was your A/c working at all?
These A/C systems don't hold very much r134a refridgerant, so what your tech says seems accurate.
These A/C systems don't hold very much r134a refridgerant, so what your tech says seems accurate.
#3
I took it in for a recharge because it would blow cool air and warm air. So I figured it was due for more refrigerant. Yes, my a/c had been working fine. Is there a solution to this sort of problem that I could try myself before having to pay the costs surrounding compressor repairs?
#4
If it has too high of a charge, it could be tripping out on the high pressure switch.
#5
No offense, but that doesn't sound like a very good A/C tech. Did he use a set of proper gauges to see what the pressures are while the compressor is running?
One of your pressure switches may be stuck. You can safely jumper the electrical plugs to test the system (just don't run it like that continuously as a fix). High pressure switch is in back of the compressor and low pressure switch is by the low pressure charge port on the receiver/drier. Replacing the high side switch requires a tech to evacuate the system, replace the drier and orifice tube, vacuum the moisture, and charge system. I think the low side switch screws into a valve...
If there's a decent pressure difference while running, the compressor is fine. If there's no pressure difference with compressor running and system is charged, then yeah, you need a compressor and probably condenser & a/c hoses. If the difference is so big it trips out one of the pressure cutoffs, you might have a clogged orifice tube.
Might need to have a tech evacuate the system and replace the receiver/drier ($15-20) before vacuuming the system dry and adding fresh 1.8lbs of freon (I think that's the right amount, the tech should have reference documents). While the system is discharged, definitely replace the orifice tube ($2). If the orifice screen is littered with metal shavings, then you may need compressor+hoses+condenser.
One of your pressure switches may be stuck. You can safely jumper the electrical plugs to test the system (just don't run it like that continuously as a fix). High pressure switch is in back of the compressor and low pressure switch is by the low pressure charge port on the receiver/drier. Replacing the high side switch requires a tech to evacuate the system, replace the drier and orifice tube, vacuum the moisture, and charge system. I think the low side switch screws into a valve...
If there's a decent pressure difference while running, the compressor is fine. If there's no pressure difference with compressor running and system is charged, then yeah, you need a compressor and probably condenser & a/c hoses. If the difference is so big it trips out one of the pressure cutoffs, you might have a clogged orifice tube.
Might need to have a tech evacuate the system and replace the receiver/drier ($15-20) before vacuuming the system dry and adding fresh 1.8lbs of freon (I think that's the right amount, the tech should have reference documents). While the system is discharged, definitely replace the orifice tube ($2). If the orifice screen is littered with metal shavings, then you may need compressor+hoses+condenser.
Last edited by helo; 08-13-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#6
Mine was cycling on and off causing a miss feeling while driving. It was the pressure switch on the back of the silver can (dont know the name). I replaced it and it works right all the time. Just something to note.
Justin
Justin
#7
To 1998MSO, Swartlkk, helo, and Surgin, Thanks for your input!
#8
Thanks for the posts. I was having air conditioning problems for about a year, then it eventually went out all together. I checked fuses and the relay. I was thinking I was going to have to replace the whole compressor. Then I saw the post about jumping the connections on the switches. The switch on the reserve tank is easy to switch. It has a peacock valve so not much freon will leak out. $11 fix.
#9
helo is absolutely right. Do everything he suggests, especially the orifice tube. Also, replace all o-rings while you have it apart, and flush all hoses and coils to get trash out. Then, re-assemble, evacuate, charge, (two $10 cans 134A).
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