Hi guys, a relative mechanical newb here from Milwaukee, WI. Long story short, I'm about a two hundred bucks into a home repair and I don't seem to be any closer to getting a spark.

I've got a 1995 Blazer with 158,000 on a replacement engine (the old one seized up with 180k on it - blown head gasket.) Everything seemed to be going A-OK, until one rainy morning, I couldn't get ignition at all. The starter (an untested $25 boneyard unit, but it worked fine for a few weeks and seems OK) is doing its thing, turning over like a champ. Just no spark.

So, I figure the ignition module is as good a place to start, and go get that checked at a local car parts store. "No good" they tell me. Makes sense, but I'm darned if I will pay $120 for the one they have to order, so off to the junkyard goes I, and pay $25 for a module and ignition coil off a '96 Jimmy. I chuck the coil because it's not the same, but the module is identical. In it goes, and lo, no spark.

So I take that one in, and they tell me that it, too is no good. I'm thinking they are full of it by now, but I go to ANOTHER auto parts store, find a new one for $80, and figure I'm on my way to having my car running again.

Nope. No spark. So I pull the coil and ask to get that tested. "We don't test coils" I'm told. So I buy a new one for $60 and throw that one in. No spark.

I'm getting mad now, so off goes the air intake manifold and I check out my distributor and spark wires. Man, there is a lot of salt in there, no wonder this damned thing doesn't work. So I buy all new distributor and rotor cap and replace all the spark plug wires, which pisses me off because they ain't easy to get to, and I start it up and.. no spark.

I've tested in-line with one of those little Lisle light bulb dealies at the spark plugs, and coming off the ignition coil, and I get nothing. I've smeared the wires with silicone grease and re-seated them all, thinking I screwed something up there. Nothing.. they are all nice and tight as far as I can tell.

What am I missing here? I thought I'd try tracking back the wires from the ignition coil to see if there is a short somewhere, but that is a lot easier said than done!

Help out a frustrated dude in Milwaukee. I'm just about to admit defeat and get the darned thing towed out of my driveway and spend $$$ getting it diagnosed.

In short: new ignition module, new ignition coil, new distributor, new rotor cap, new wires, all seated. Unknown quality starter, but it seems to be doing its thing and that should be on a separate circuit? No spark.

Thanks for any and all advice!

Milwaukeedude

 

do you have 12v at coil DURING CRANK? Had a bad ignition switch once on a 95 that had 12v with key on-- but not during crank....

 

know you said you got a module but whtat about the coil?

 

ok is your fuel pump working? if not it could be the computer feed wire it`s where it is joined the harnes behind the engine wires are soldered there where they are joined if you replace the engine it could still be conected but will not turn on the fuel pump an the spark .They will be green on the in side so a test light can`t be used to test them(it will light up) you will need a volt or ohm meter if i remember it isn t easy to get at but look at this joint it is behind the left cylinder head and the scaner doesn`t pick this up