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'95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

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  #1  
Old 10-03-2007, 04:09 PM
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Default '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

Hey - I'm editing this post because I have more pix, AND I want to also include my H4 headlight installation! This is for a '95-97 with sealed beam headlights.

I purchased my H4 conversion kit from JCWhitney.com. I only found one other non-Ebay vendor on the 'net that sells them, but their site wasn't put together very well, and they didn't have a customer service number. My radar told me to avoid them and go with the better-known company.

Attachment 1 shows where the screws are located, once you open the hood. The points are shown as six blue circles.

Attachment 2 shows the cover you have to remove. Just pry behind the pins, and the pins pop out: Also, if you scroll down, Kyle also mentions another way you can do this.

Attachment 3 shows one of the two hidden bolts in the center of the grille. The other one is beneath the bowtie.

Attachment 4 shows you the location of the screws that remove the headlights.

Attachment 5 shows the three wires you must cut from the existing plug. Unfortunately in my case, the prongs on the factory lights did not match up to the three prongs on the H4s. This means you must cut and splice. I didn't think to take a pic of the new plug, but when you see it, it's pretty much a no-brainer. The colors of the wires miraculously were the same in my case. If the wires of your truck are a different color, I'd suggest you consult a service manual (or you can take a chance and test them until they work). Kyle suggested I used heat shrinks, which I did, which are shown as the pink things covering the ends of the wires.

One last note: There was an extra brown wire on the driver's side, and somehow this affects the high beam. I didn't have time to troubleshoot it. For now I'm not worrying about it, because the lights are so bright, I don't think I will even need them! If I get stuck with it, I'll consult my mechanic and post an update.

I can't upload more than five pix in this message, so scroll down to see the end result.
 
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Old 10-03-2007, 04:55 PM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal

what did you do with the chrome you you took off... wanna sell it.. mine is faded at the corners.. thinking about getting this one off ebay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...spagenameZWDVW
 
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Old 10-03-2007, 05:18 PM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal

On those pins, if you pry out on the smaller head, then they will come out much easier. They are kind of like a removable plastic rivet.
 
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Old 11-08-2007, 12:24 AM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

The end result looks like this:

Muleman: My old grille is pretty faded too. I was thinking about selling it on Craig's List. Get the billet! It looks a lot better than the one I'd sell you. OR get the Phantom Grille. The best price I've found is at SFXPerformance.com.


[IMG]local://upfiles/6657/74374877B881454CAB8B860CFCA5F2A0.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old 11-08-2007, 12:33 AM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

i can get ya a grille..
 
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Old 11-08-2007, 12:55 AM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

I am a little puzzled as to why you had to cut your headlight connectors for the H4 conversion. The H4 conversions are supposed to be a direct replacement without the need to cut/adapt connectors, at least the Hella H4's I have used in the past were a direct replacement for any car that I converted and I have converted nearly all the cars I have owned. My 71 Toyota Corona MKIII had a 4 light system and I also installed fog and passing beams to give me that daylight lighting that I wanted... I used Hella H4's for the low/high lights and Cibie H3 high beams which when turned on gave me nearly 1mile reflective light...boy would I give to have that system back again...but today's modern headlights don't lend themselves to easily convert them to better lighting...mostly the problem of the electrical system...
 
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Old 12-19-2007, 07:35 AM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

ORIGINAL: 20Blazer00

I am a little puzzled as to why you had to cut your headlight connectors for the H4 conversion. The H4 conversions are supposed to be a direct replacement without the need to cut/adapt connectors
I had to cut them because the prongs on the originals did not match up to the prongs on the replacements. Maybe it's plug-n-play in most cases, but it wasn't in mine:

[IMG]local://upfiles/6657/A25B0847084A4B6B9BE87082F9166F06.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old 12-19-2007, 07:58 AM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

Kinda hard to see in that pic... Cameraphone? lol

I know my old S10, which had the H6054's it was a direct plug & play swap...

From what I can find, the H4666 or whatever the sealed beam is...

The connection looks like this:
/_|

The slanted one should be ground, the bottom one is highbeam, and the right is lowbeam...

For the H4
|_|

The bottom is lowbeam, the left is highbeam, the right is ground...

There's probably adaptors out there for it, but since it seems you've got everything working...

You mentioned something about a tan wire in another thread... Does that mean you've got 4 wires going in?
 
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:25 PM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

Yeah, it was a cameraphone. Maybe Santa will get me a real digital cam, but I won't bet on it. Right now I can't get it myself, because I have other bills/expenses taking a higher priority. As soon as I can get my hands on one, I'll take new pix and show everybody.

As for the wires on MY truck...there was a green, a blue, and a tan on the passenger side. It was the same on the driver's side, except there was an EXTRA tan wire! Both wires plugged into the original sealed beam, so I assumed they should both be spliced into the new connection.

This afternoon, I very carefully studied the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual. On trucks without Daytime Running Lamps (DRLs), there is a black wire that goes to ground on both sides. On trucks WITH DRLs (like mine), there is supposed to be a black ground wire on the passenger side, but a BLUE wire on the driver's side that goes to the DRL relay. Since I pulled the fuse to the DRLs prior to making the upgrade, that means the blue DRL wire is going nowhere right now. Something tells me that if Idisconnect it and ground that connection, the problem may go away. After I first test for the other two possibilities, I will do this if the problem still exists.

So here's what the wires are supposed to be coded for:

Tan = low beam
Green = high beam
Black = ground
Blue = DRL

However, I have no black wires. The extra wires areboth blue. Also, it's a mystery to me why I need two low beam wires on the driver's side. I'm stumped on this one.

As a last resort, I do have an extra headlight wiring harness from a 98+ truck. I purchased it back when I was considering doing the front-end upgrade. It could very well be that I could use the new harness with 9005 and 9006 bulbs and be good to go. The only problem then is that I'd have to install extra housings for the high beams (probably via fog lamps), or I could just go without high beams and be done.

So here is how I plan to troubleshoot:
[ol][*]Put the DRL fuse back in, to see if the problem keeps occurring. If so, then[*]Pull the fuse again and swap the bulbs, to see if the driver's side bulb is defective. If not, then[*]Double-check the spliced connections, but this time disconnect the blue wire and instead have a grounded wire.[*]If the problem still occurs, then remove one of the tan wires.[/ol]
If after all that, I still get the clicking off and on, I will then try the other wiring harness, with 98+ stock bulbs.

Do we have any other comments, suggestions, etc.? I welcome any and all feedback!
 
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:50 PM
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Default RE: '95-97 Grille Removal and Headlight Installation (Sealed Beam)

Your daytime running lights should've been low power highbeams...

If you've got a volt meter, it'd help figure things out...

Is there a black strip anywhere on any of the wires you're using for ground?
 


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