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  #1  
Old 07-26-2009, 04:13 PM
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Question '95 Blazer Engine Removal Problems

Have had the WORST time ever removing the engine from my 95 4x4 blazer. I have a haynes manual, and have read through it, some of it several times, and it appears to be of NO help.

Had no trouble removing the intake, distributor, front brackets, radiator and supports, all the electrical connectors and vacuum lines. Then came the fun part.

I had a terrible time removing the bolts from the bellhousing to the engine. Used several long extensions and u-joints, as chevy decided to put brackets in such a manner as to make it near impossible to get to the bolts. Also they designed it with mere millimeters between the housing and the firewall. SO... removed all but one bolt, and then drilled a hole in the firewall to access the last bolt.

Then came more fun. Engine was LOCKED!!!

So... that means, can't turn it over. at all, wont budge.

So... that means NO removing the flywheel from the torque converter.

So... that means pulling the torque converter out of the trans, forward, to clear the bellhousing. However, the oil pan was bumping the axle for the four wheel drive. GREAT!!! how fun. So... on the the next idea.

Decided to remove the oil pan, what a pain in the butt. Finally managed to use enough different extensions and u-joints and different long and short sockets to get the bolts all off. Had to beat the pan back straight where a rod busted through the oil pan, thus pinching the pan onto one bolt, which required much use of a sledge and a screwdriver to bend back.

Ok.. that part wasn't so bad, just poor luck. But... now it gets to where I am right now.

Tried hard to remove the engine, so pulled it forward, almost getting the torque converter clear of the housing. But... in doing so, pinched the oil pan between the flywheel and the front axle. So... now I can't get the dang oil pan off, even though it's loose of the bottom of the block. Any suggestions? Lifting the block only pinches the back of the oil pan, lowering it pinches it at the front by the axle. So... how do I get the dang thing off?

I'm currently debating tearing the oil pan into pieces with a sawsall, or smashing the block into pieces in place, to be able to remove it. I'm getting quite frustrated with this dang thing, and I KNOW I can get the new block in and running faster than it took me to remove the old one.

So.. help please. Any tips in removing this oil pan/engine?

Thanks
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Old 07-26-2009, 08:23 PM
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Well now that you have gotten that off your chest... It does not appear that much of the trouble you are having is really GM's fault, but rather the fact that the engine grenaded...

Sounds like you need to drop the front axle. It really is not held in there by much. Dropping it down just enough to clear is all that is necessary.
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2009, 09:57 AM
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Default thanks :)

I wasn't rattin on chevy. I love my caddy better of course... but I've always had good luck with chevy's. Just never worked on one to this degree. Thanks for the input about droppin the axle. I'll read up on that section some more, and see what happens. Do you know if I'll need any gaskets or gasket sealer to put it back? or is this an unbolt and then reassemble deal? Should I have a jack stand to hold the axle (how heavy is this thing?)

thanks
chris
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:02 PM
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I just pmed you back. Your oil pan has 2 nuts behind the flywheel that is holding you on.

I would suggest.

#1 Dropping the diff

#2 trying to wiggle the trans back (t-case it attached)

#3 big sledge hammer and bust the oil pan, hit it at the back of the pan, chances are your going to bust the 2 studs on the block. If the engines bad anyways who cares right? your call
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  #5  
Old 08-13-2009, 05:39 PM
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Ok... been a while, but here goes update.

removing engine from trans was a bitch... hard to get at all the bolts on the bellhousing, due to TOO close to firewall. Drilled hole in floorpan to access one of the bolts.

As engine is locked, could not remove torque converter from flywheel. If I could just move engine far enough forward, torque converter would clear the trans bellhousing, and I could get it out anyway.

Oil pan was a pain to reach all the bolts, but managed to do so. Got oil pan to hang, but it was still stuck between the flywheel and the front diff. and axle. So... unbolting oil pan did NOT grant me the space I needed to remove the engine.

Suggestions given were to
A) Lower the trans, remove crossmembers and remove engine and trans as one unit.

B) remove front differential, remove front axle, and pull engine forward and remove.

C) try for another truck!!!

So.... I thought about it hard.

Then.... It hit me. Sawsall the pan. Nope no clearance.

Remove the heads and punch out the pistons and rods with a sledge, and get the lil f'er to turn. Nope couldn't get the heads off. That's another problem I cannot explain at this time.

So... as sawsal was out... just got a new tool. By the way.. I LOVE harbor freight. A 15 dollar air cutoff tool, 3 inch cutoff disks, and it came with a guard!!! to help control sparks and debree.

Cut the oil pan in half, removed the front half thinking... OK... it'll drop down now right? WRONG!!!

Used the cutoff tool to cut strips down the sides of the "sump" portion of the pan. Then I "gently persuaded" the pan through the area between the axle and the flywheel.

By "gently persuaded". I mean I grabbed a 45 pound olympic weight bar I just happened to have in my garage. Slid it into place between the engine (held up by hoist), and the pan. As there wasn't clearance to lift the pan up, I used that nice little weight bar to "pursuade" it Down to the ground. One little BANG at a time... and it crushed like a tin can. Took about 30 or 40 bangs, and I got one hell of a workout.

BUT... It's OUT!!!! Yeah yeah yeah!! it's out baby.

The engine pulled forward easily without the pan, cleared the bellhousing, and found that I'd forgotten to remove a few ground wires, and the clamp at the rear of the block that holds the fuel lines and a vacuum line in place. Oh well, undid the bolts, and voila... done.

You should see the photos of the bottom of this block, torn to pieces. chunks of block in the cylinder all the way up crammed between the piston and the wall. What a mess. I'll try to post them soon.

But bottom line is IT'S OUT!!!!

Can't weight to transfer the manifolds and distributor/intake, and fire this thing up.
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2009, 02:36 PM
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Default Thats CRAZY

Hats off to you. I thought it was bad enough pulling and reinstalling the one a friend and I rebuilt WITHOUT having to worry about the engine not turning. Hopefully you got it running!
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2010, 12:50 PM
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I have the same problem with a 97. I may just try c-4
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:53 AM
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Take the Crank pulley off the harmonic balencer. Put the bolts back in a couple threads. Then use a 2X4 and wedge it in the bolts. You might be able to turn it that way. If not, time for a rebuilt or 350.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:43 PM
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wow im having the same exact problem! but dont really wanna cut the oil pan for use on the other engine we have for the blazer any other suggestions? check my thread for details
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  #10  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:59 AM
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try takin the transmission loose of the crossmember and droppin drive shaft slidin trans away from engine then lift the engine out no need to remove oil pan and on installation dont put heads on block chevy ridin until in truck it allows u to get to the bellhousings bolts better god bless
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:59 AM
 
 
 
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1999, 4x4, 95, 97, blazer, chevy, drive, engine, oil, pan, problems, removal, remove, time, top, turn, wheel, wont


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