Hello all,

Noob here and I've been reading a lot of threads to see if I could find out what might be wrong with my truck. Here's the symptoms and what I've tried so far.

The truck runs fine until it reaches operating temperature and then it sputters around 2500-3000 rpm and just shuts off. It will not restart until it has cooled down and then the same thing happens again.

A friend of a friend of mine is a mechanic and he took a look at it last weekend but said he couldn't figure out what the problem was without throwing parts at it. The check engine light recently came on and he tested for codes which he said that there was some sort of exhaust error. The truck has always had an exhaust leak so I'm not certain that this is the issue.

First I replaced the fuel filter and I just purchased an ICM and replaced it as someone had the same problems and this was the fix for them. Unfortunately, it wasn't for me. I also purchased new wires and plugs but haven't installed them yet and thought I'd ask for advice before I proceed any further.

The plugs are Bosch Platinums because I was told these were the best plugs but from other threads here, seems I may want to return these for AC Delco's?

Could it be the fuel pump when it runs fine up until it's warm? Seems it would be an electrical issue over fuel but I'm clueless as to where to start.

Thanks in advance............

 

Many GM vehicles have a problem like this. The plastic on the crank sensor will crack, and will be closed up when the vehicle is cold. When it warms up the cracks expand and the computer can't read the signal. Then the vehicle won't run until it cools back down and the cracks seal up. Couldn't say for sure, but that might be a good place to start.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I was really excited to see a possible solution for my problem but after googling for the crank sensor, it looks like it was only put on '96 and up. Would have been a fairly easy fix too....

 

If your distributor has the plug wire terminals oriented horizontally, you have a CKP sensor which is used for ignition timing. All '96+ models had a CKP sensor, but some of the later EDI equiped '95s received it as well.

 

Yes, horizontal wire terminals on the distributor so I'll replace that part next.

Thanks

 

I pulled the crank sensor yesterday and took a look at it. It doesn't seem to have any cracks but I can still replace it if it may be the problem. Also pulled the EGR valve and it was sticking so it was cleaned up and put back with a new gasket. The thing is, after it got to operating temp it shut off and a friend sprayed carb cleaner into the intake while I cranked and she fired right up.

Does the crank sensor have anything to do with fuel or is it for spark only? Also, do I have to have a shop "calibrate" if I replace it or will I swap it out and it'll just work?

I failed to mention that I have replaced my radiator recently because of a major leak. The engine was overheating so it's seen some high heat a few times. It was doing this "sputter and die" thing before the overheating took place but only every month or so and not every time like now. Not sure if that's important but I wanted to make it known in case it has any relevance.

-Thanks

 

It's been almost a week so I figured I'd try and bump this back up from page 4. My friend thinks it's my fuel pump so I'll try to check that next but just need some clue as to if the Crank shaft position sensor has anything to do with it not getting fuel? Do I have to have a shop reset anything if I replace it?

Once again, thanks for any input that may help me from purchasing parts that I don't need.

 

The CKP sensor will not prohibit fuel from getting to the fuel injection system.

A CASE learn (aka Crankshaft Variation Relearn Procedure) needs to be done whenever any of the timing components is replaced (CKP, CMP, Distributor, Cam, Timing Set).

 

Thanks for the input. Will check fuel pump pressure and search the threads for other fuel related issues.

 

i have a 95 as well, and just recently encountered the same problem in a road trip. the first time it happened was after about 280 miles of continuous driving. it started up after no more than a 3 or 4 minute rest and drove the remaining 80 miles just fine. driving home however, it happened about 6 times im 360 miles... im guessing it only gets worse from here. did you ever figure out what the cause of the problem was?