Hey everyone. I am going home from college (I live off campus, but I can use the garage at home instead of outside in freezing weather) for a month over the Christmas break and I am going to try to do this maintenance project myself, despite me being alot better with a computer mouse and keyboard than a wrench. My truck is getting close to 100k and several of the maintenance items are reaching their maintenance intervals at the same time. I do have a couple questions regarding some of the items on this list:

-Oil/ filter change (Converting back to Royal Purple. I am now using AC Delco PF52 filters from now on.)

-Transmission fluid/filter change.

-Tune-up (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, PCV Valve)
Is this easy enough to do for someone with limited automotive experience? How easy is it to pull the steering shaft to get to the #3 plug? Is that dangerous? Or is there another trick?
Is there a way to replace the PCV Valve without ripping the rubber connectors again?

-Both differentials + rear diff cover (I MAY have a shop do this. Afraid of the brake lines)
Is there a trick to doing this without damaging brake lines? The hoses were just replaced in case that matters. Is it true that Lucas works in differentials? If so how much and should I consider it? I have a G80, but I doubt it is working, but is there an additive required for it?


-Transfer case fluid
Isn't that just drain and refill? What kind of tool do I need to remove the plugs?

-If I get the Posi-Lok setup for Christmas, Install that. I already asked most of the questions in another post, so I will not double post on here.
Which vac lines can I eliminate in this case? Can I just rip the actuator and cable out after I get the Posi-Lok in?



-Replace the 4WD dashboard switch (4HI bulb flickers or doesn't light up sometimes even when the 4WD works).

-Clean the Spectre air filter (It's been a year and I haven't touched it)
Is it worth cleaning it or should I consider a new filter? It has 20k on it.

-Patch the leaking washer bottle with what is left of the 4 minute epoxy
It is leaking out of the lowermost plastic **** in the tank. Behind the bumper. It drips, but it loses almost half of the fluid in one or two days.

-Replace the belt tensioner and send the old one back if it is returnable (I replaced it a couple months ago and already it is bad)

-Touch up the paint and rust protection on the frame that came off when the car was put on the lift. I painted the frame and parts of the body that are hit by salt and snow a few months ago.

-Strip the interior down to the carpet (seats/center console out) and rerun the wires for the computers and electronics to make it neater. Use the carpet cleaner hand tool on the carpeting. Also patch the tear in the driver seat with the repair kit I have.

-Use the remaining 4 minute epoxy to fix the driver door panel bolt holes to keep it secured. Also replace the door panel plastic fasteners
Is there a trick to that?

-Get the correct touchup paint and fix my messy touchup jobs that I have done over the years.

Can anyone recommend a good repair manual for all this? I have the Haynes manual, but it seems to be a bit difficult at times to understand. What about Chilton manuals?

 

Factory service manual if you want a hard copy. Alldatadiy.com if you don't mind having a computer in the shop/garage with you.

 

I think I will go with Alldatadiy. I am around computers for 20 hours a day. As I said, I even have one with a touchscreen in the truck. Maybe I can connect it to AC power and run it on that! LOL

 

Thoughts on your project in no particular order: Transmission filter will come with a new seal. You'll need a small seal puller to to remove it from the transmission (personally I left my old one in), once you bend it you're committed to replacing it. Front differential, I used an oil sucker to remove the old oil. Rear, put the truck on jackstands and you'll have enough access to the cover bolts to loosen them with a socket, brake lines shouldn't be an issue. Pull out on the cover and let it drain. First make sure the fill plug on the side will come out before you have a dry rear end, heh. Dunno 'bout Blazers but on my 79 Corvette I learned anything but the GM oil and additive make the clutch packs sieze giving me a locked rear end. I've never tried anything aftermarket (on a limited slip) after that. Transfer case: An open end wrench for the plugs (15mm? I forget) If you have the Auto 4x4 GM TracII fluid only! Spark plugs: Jack it up and take the front wheels off. Have a 3" and 6" extension. I get plug #3 by turning the steering shaft flat side down (you'll see what I mean), put the socket on the plug and put the extension in the socket but not far enough to lock it into the socket - a do it your self rocker. Door clips snap into the panel and are easy to replace but get GM ones if you can. I bought some at NAPA and broke the panel next time I removed it 'cause they used a stiffer plastic (and I didn't have a proper trim removal tool at the time, invest in one, they're cheap compared to a panel). Best luck I had with patching bottles was with GOOP but surface prep is key no matter what you use, sandpaper and alcohol are your friends. At the top of the 4WD switch is a small clip (one of 'em anyhow), push down gently and pry out with a small screwdriver and you can replace that switch without ripping the dash apart. I use computers all the time but I love reading too, FSM was a good investment for me and I never have to touch my computer with greasy fingers in the middle of a job.

 

with what i have learned from replacing a couple freeze plugs on the drivers side, just move that steering shaft. it is very easy to do and well worth it. its just 1 bolt that you have to take out and you can swing the shaft out of the way. its how im gonna start changing out my spark plugs. just mark it before you take it apart and you should be fine. i have changed the transmission filter a few times and every time i have used the new seal. it will take you some time to get that old seal out just be careful not to gouge where that seal goes. what has worked for me is taking a sharp pick tool and driving it in at a little bit of an angle and it normally bends it enough to where i can get like a hook tool or something like that in there so i can turn it to get it to come out. if that air filter you have is washable i would go ahead and clean it. i would also do the fuel filter at this time as well. i used to use the royal purple oil but i have switched back to mobil 1, they are both great oils. as far as an oil filter i like the k&n filter that i have used for the past few years. the k&n oil filters have a 1" nut welded onto the bottom and it makes like a lot easier when it comes to replacing the oil filter. the rear diff cover is easy to take off and you shouldnt even have to mess with the brake lines. just make sure that the mating surfaces are clean and you shouldnt have any issues. i have always used the haynes manuals and never had a problem with them. i am looking at getting the chiltons so that way i have a second book to look at and if i end up keeping the truck i will probably get a factory service manual.

 

Thanks for all the help so far. Just a few updates:
1. I bought AC Delco P/N 12 RapidFire Plugs from RockAuto. Good choice? I noticed that they are gapped to .0625 (coin gap check tool from Autozone), so I will have to get the tool in the morning to regap them for this 4.3. I also bought a 3/8" drive 11" spark plug socket/"cv joint"/extension from Autozone so I can get to the plugs easier. How tight do I tighten these without a torque wrench? Just with a ratchet until it stops? Or should I get one? Also, is it safe to hit these plugs with WD-40 before I remove them?

2. I had to scrap the switch to Royal Purple. Way out of my budget. Walmart has Mobil1 HM 5W-30 in a 5qt jug for $24.50. 5 quarts for the price of 4 plus $1 off. I am sticking with Mobil1 for now with Lucas. Still alot better than conventional oil without breaking the bank. I also am going to try a Purolator PureONE filter again. If there is a problem, I can always go back to AC Delco. Last time I tried it, it was very restrictive and dropped the oil pressure a bit.

3. How dangerous is it to remove the steering shaft? Is there a risk that I will not put it back on correctly and allow it to come off and cause an accident? How tight does the bolt have to be without stripping the threads? Where do I swing the steering shaft afterward to prevent it from hitting the brake lines?

4. I got the Chilton's anyway since it was easy and cheap to get. I also had a Haynes manual, so I have 2 manuals to refer to without getting my touchscreen or keyboard greasy. The car PC will be removed anyway since I am removing the seats to clean them and the carpet and reroute wiring for the computer and electronics.

5. Transmission and rear diff I am having done professionally after Christmas. They really are not urgently needed yet and (you can laugh if you want) I do not want to push the limits of my automotive inexperience, damage something and have to have the car towed to the shop. I know where to stop and I am not a risk taker when the consequences are expensive repair bills. I do not have the means to install the drain plug on the trans pan (and possibly the rear diff if there is one that will fit) also. Front diff and transfer case I am still doing myself. Advance Auto was nice enough to print out a chart with all the fluid capacities and types this truck takes.

 

1- The plug gap is .060 so I wouldn't worry about the plugs as is. Those gap tools are not that accurate & vary from one to another. Tighten the plugs until they seat & then an extra 1/16 turn. No need to torque them.

2- Mobil 1 is a better oil then RP.

3- No need to remove steering shaft at all. Peel down the orange rubber sleeve on the shaft to get some extra room. You can use an open end wrench on the end of the spark plug socket if you can't get the ratchet on. If you'll be doing this in the future pick up a shorty spark plug socket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-90500/

Good luck with your project.

 

Thanks. I did end up getting a torque wrench anyway ($15) because I have other uses for it other than this. I have been working on this for a couple hours (I take my time on everything car-related and take frequent breaks). I have all 3 passenger side plugs, the cap and rotor replaced. I was shocked to find that the cap, wires and rotor were not original. It said "Standard" on all of it, which I assumed is Standard Motor Parts. We bought this car at 58,000 (40,000 miles and 3 years ago) and we didn't touch any of that. Means the previous owner had that stuff done years ago. Still a bit of white powder on the dist. cap contacts. I was also shocked to find that the plugs were not AC Delcos at all. Walmart Autolites.

Also, is there a trick to unlocking the wire clips so I can run new wires to the plugs? Thanks.

 

Ok, I am making an appointment to get the wires and the #3 plug done AFTER I get the battery recharged at Autozone. I cannot get the clips open nor do I have the correct tools to get the plug out. In my stupidity, I left the lights on and the battery is dead. The truck is in a garage, so there is no way to get a car close enough to jump start it. Before this happened, I started it and there was no check engine light or other problems, so the work that I did do was okay. Thanks for all the help on this matter nonetheless.

 

Got the entire tuneup done. Had to take it to a mechanic for the wires, PCV valve and #3 plug, but it got done.

Completed items:
-Spark Plugs (AC Delco 12)
-Plug Wires (Bosch)
-Distributor Cap and rotor (AC Delco)
-Replaced Spectre air filter with universal Spectre filter with open filtered bottom (same size)
-PCV valve (Purolator)

Fluids are next, but I am saving that for after Christmas but before I go back to school since none of them are actually due at this time.

Now, there is another problem. I am getting a vibrating/rattling noise at idle. I think it is the PCV valve since I have heard it before and different PCV valves fixed it (last time I heard it was 3 years ago). Is there a fix for it?