1995 blazer popping and stumbling when accelerating....
#1
1995 blazer popping and stumbling when accelerating....
1995 Chevy Blazer 4x4 Automatic 4.3L V6 Vortec:
Fuel Pump- replaced 3 months ago
Fuel Filter- replaced 3-4 months ago
Cap & Rotor- replaced 6 months ago
Spark Plugs- replaced 3 days ago
Plug Wires- replaced 6 months ago
TPS- replaced 6 months ago
O2 Sensor after the cat- replaced 6 months ago
Nut Kit- replaced 3 months ago
Tested all 6 injectors 3 days ago
Tested & installed new EGR valve 3 days ago
Tested all wires 3 days ago
Hit Cat & Muffler and doesn't sound like anything is loose inside 3 days ago
Looked under hood while pitch black did not see any sparks or arching same day as post
Here is my issue:
When I push on the gas the truck shakes and stumbles really bad and it either back fires or pops somewhere under the hood. It acts like it wants to come out it and tries to run right then goes back to stumbling and shaking at any rate of speed. Any suggestions?
Fuel Pump- replaced 3 months ago
Fuel Filter- replaced 3-4 months ago
Cap & Rotor- replaced 6 months ago
Spark Plugs- replaced 3 days ago
Plug Wires- replaced 6 months ago
TPS- replaced 6 months ago
O2 Sensor after the cat- replaced 6 months ago
Nut Kit- replaced 3 months ago
Tested all 6 injectors 3 days ago
Tested & installed new EGR valve 3 days ago
Tested all wires 3 days ago
Hit Cat & Muffler and doesn't sound like anything is loose inside 3 days ago
Looked under hood while pitch black did not see any sparks or arching same day as post
Here is my issue:
When I push on the gas the truck shakes and stumbles really bad and it either back fires or pops somewhere under the hood. It acts like it wants to come out it and tries to run right then goes back to stumbling and shaking at any rate of speed. Any suggestions?
#2
1995 used 2 basic computer systems, and the diagnostics are different. We need to know which system you have before we can accurately diagnose it. From the information you've already given above, all we need to know is if the plug wires attach to the cap horizontal or vertical.
Just because parts are new, is no guarantee that they're good.
Check fuel pressure and leakdown. Key ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running: Pressure must be 55psi to 61psi. It must remain above 50psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off.
Does the check engine light come on or flash while driving?
Are there any trouble codes in memory?
Just because parts are new, is no guarantee that they're good.
Check fuel pressure and leakdown. Key ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running: Pressure must be 55psi to 61psi. It must remain above 50psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off.
Does the check engine light come on or flash while driving?
Are there any trouble codes in memory?
#4
If your cap and rotor aren't AC delco start there and put an AC delco cap and rotor in it.
I just had a problem just like yours, I had aftermarket cap and rotor for just under 12 months and as soon as I put on the AC Delco cap and rotor it ran perfect with great power and smooth idle.
I just had a problem just like yours, I had aftermarket cap and rotor for just under 12 months and as soon as I put on the AC Delco cap and rotor it ran perfect with great power and smooth idle.
#5
The Cap has horizontal posts and is not AC Delco. That is the first thing I am going to try payday. 6 months ago the nut kit was leaking and I replaced it. This is a new problem. No check engine light and no codes.
Last edited by zstudna; 01-15-2013 at 08:03 AM.
#6
zstudna, The early production 95's use OBDI computer controls with HEI ignition. The brand of distributor cap is not critical. Your vehicle has OBD1.5 computer controls with EDI ignition. An AC Delco cap & rotor should always be used on that system. Make sure to put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. Provided camshaft retard is adjusted correctly, the cap should last 100K miles.
After replacing the cap & rotor, check fuel pressure and leakdown, then post your results.
After replacing the cap & rotor, check fuel pressure and leakdown, then post your results.
#7
zstudna, The early production 95's use OBDI computer controls with HEI ignition. The brand of distributor cap is not critical. Your vehicle has OBD1.5 computer controls with EDI ignition. An AC Delco cap & rotor should always be used on that system. Make sure to put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. Provided camshaft retard is adjusted correctly, the cap should last 100K miles.
After replacing the cap & rotor, check fuel pressure and leakdown, then post your results.
After replacing the cap & rotor, check fuel pressure and leakdown, then post your results.
#10
AC Delco Distributor Cap & Rotor replacement update!!
I replaced the distributor cap & rotor the other day on my 95 Chevy Blazer 4x4, 4.3L V6 Automatic, and the truck is running better than ever!! The gas mileage is great, all and all better. Thanks again for the input everyone.
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