98 Blazer No Floor Heat
#121
01-08-2017, 08:03 PM
My old and new actuator both are either full in or full out. It doesn't move or return to the center or rest postion when on mix floor/defrost. I watched a video online where the guy switched his from floor, to mix, to defrost. When it went to mix, the actuator arm would move about halfway out (or in, depending on where it started). So I really am still stumped on that.
I did try your test after turning the car off. Waited 15 seconds and then switched from floor to defrost. Also later tested from floor to dash. Both times it switched over after that 15 second wait time, no problem there. Then I tried switching back, and it does move, though not so quickly or completely. But if what you're saying is correct, I guess that's because I used up most of the vacuum when I switched the first time.
Anyway, it's supposed to be warmer the next few days, so hopefully I can work on it and update what's going on. I think you're right though, about replacing that dash actuator while I've got it torn apart already, because that one does seem a little slow. Plus the way it's always diverting to dash when first started. I'm thinking I may have a slow leak on that actuator. (I also read somewhere that default is to go to floor/defrost, so that you can have a clear windshield at least if everything goes to pot. So going to dash on default seems wrong.) I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your help!
I did try your test after turning the car off. Waited 15 seconds and then switched from floor to defrost. Also later tested from floor to dash. Both times it switched over after that 15 second wait time, no problem there. Then I tried switching back, and it does move, though not so quickly or completely. But if what you're saying is correct, I guess that's because I used up most of the vacuum when I switched the first time.
Anyway, it's supposed to be warmer the next few days, so hopefully I can work on it and update what's going on. I think you're right though, about replacing that dash actuator while I've got it torn apart already, because that one does seem a little slow. Plus the way it's always diverting to dash when first started. I'm thinking I may have a slow leak on that actuator. (I also read somewhere that default is to go to floor/defrost, so that you can have a clear windshield at least if everything goes to pot. So going to dash on default seems wrong.) I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your help!
#122
10-26-2017, 07:39 PM
Time to resurrect the old thread with an update. I finally got back to work on my car today since it's turning cold soon. I am happy to report I did get the new valve (flap/door) installed, and the new actuator installed. Here are my trouble spots for anyone else who runs across this thread and wants to do the repair.
My biggest mistake was cutting the hole too small, and it was a very rough cut with an oscillating multi tool. I proceeded to scrape and cut my wrist and hand several times before I decided to enlarge the hole (yes to the point of looking like a suicide attempt). Second time still didn't get it cut large enough. Third time was the charm, or close enough. I am a female with small hands and wrists, so I have no idea how men with bigger meat hooks manage to do this repair.
Then I spent a long time trying to get the lever released from the broken stub. Somebody said previously to stick a small screwdriver in the hole on the end and release a tab, but no matter what I did with the small screwdriver I couldn't get it to release. I was trying to be very careful so I wouldn't break it. Finally decided I'd just order a new one and I used a large screwdriver to force/pry it off. Lucked out and didn't break the retaining tab, so I was able to reuse my old lever.
Putting the new door in was a challenge because the hole still wasn't really big enough to maneuver easily without some pain (but at least I didn't cause any more bleeding LOL). Plus I had to start my car every so often throughout this repair to move the other door up out of the way, as it returns to the dash vent position after a short time. (Don't know if i have a slow vacuum leak or if this is typical behaviour.) I did luck out and get the actuator end in place pretty easily, but that inside stub took some force and expletives, plus a few tries to actually hit the hole. I have a floor shift auto, so all that crap is sticking up in the way, and I had to keep reminding myself to not lean on it since there's alot of old plastic there that could break! I can see that a column shift would be so much easier with more room to work.
So the new actuator and door seem to be working perfectly. Just gotta get around to patching up that hole I cut somehow, since I now have one big piece and two smaller slices to work with, and none of them seem to fit together right. Plus at some point during this fiasco I lost the lights on my first 2 radio presets (factory stereo) and have no idea what I could have done to cause that. Good luck to anyone else who attempts this. I'm sure somebody will need this thread soon with winter coming on. Cheers!
My biggest mistake was cutting the hole too small, and it was a very rough cut with an oscillating multi tool. I proceeded to scrape and cut my wrist and hand several times before I decided to enlarge the hole (yes to the point of looking like a suicide attempt). Second time still didn't get it cut large enough. Third time was the charm, or close enough. I am a female with small hands and wrists, so I have no idea how men with bigger meat hooks manage to do this repair.
Then I spent a long time trying to get the lever released from the broken stub. Somebody said previously to stick a small screwdriver in the hole on the end and release a tab, but no matter what I did with the small screwdriver I couldn't get it to release. I was trying to be very careful so I wouldn't break it. Finally decided I'd just order a new one and I used a large screwdriver to force/pry it off. Lucked out and didn't break the retaining tab, so I was able to reuse my old lever.
Putting the new door in was a challenge because the hole still wasn't really big enough to maneuver easily without some pain (but at least I didn't cause any more bleeding LOL). Plus I had to start my car every so often throughout this repair to move the other door up out of the way, as it returns to the dash vent position after a short time. (Don't know if i have a slow vacuum leak or if this is typical behaviour.) I did luck out and get the actuator end in place pretty easily, but that inside stub took some force and expletives, plus a few tries to actually hit the hole. I have a floor shift auto, so all that crap is sticking up in the way, and I had to keep reminding myself to not lean on it since there's alot of old plastic there that could break! I can see that a column shift would be so much easier with more room to work.
So the new actuator and door seem to be working perfectly. Just gotta get around to patching up that hole I cut somehow, since I now have one big piece and two smaller slices to work with, and none of them seem to fit together right. Plus at some point during this fiasco I lost the lights on my first 2 radio presets (factory stereo) and have no idea what I could have done to cause that. Good luck to anyone else who attempts this. I'm sure somebody will need this thread soon with winter coming on. Cheers!
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