Brake Caliper Sticking Intermittently
#1
Brake Caliper Sticking Intermittently
03 Blazer, the rear passenger side brake caliper will drag every so often. When it first happened about seven months ago I assumed the brake hose had collapsed, since I had done a total rear brake job about a year previous (loaded calipers and new rotors). So I replaced the hose, but still had the issue. I then tried to re-grease the guide pins, but this hasn't helped either. I'm ready to just throw in the towel and get another caliper, but thought I'd check with you guys to see if there was something I'm missing.
Last edited by porkfriedrice; 02-24-2017 at 02:42 AM.
#2
Was the brake fluid flush a year ago when you did the total brake job? Have you inspected the metal brake lines for any damage?
What is the indication that the caliper is dragging?
Guess you could always compress the piston all the way in and see if it does it again.
Keep us informed.
What is the indication that the caliper is dragging?
Guess you could always compress the piston all the way in and see if it does it again.
Keep us informed.
#3
I had the calipers off for so long (didn't let the MC run dry) that I cycled through quite a bit of brake fluid, so it should be relatively clean.
Both times I had the wheel off to install the new hose/re lube pins I didn't notice any brake line damage, though I admit I didn't inspect closely. The driver's side works perfectly, so it would probably have to be damaged pretty close to the wheel. There are no noticeable leaks.
What happens is the truck seems to be not moving as much as it should be, and sure enough you can smell the burning brake pad and the wheel is hot. There was a burn mark on the rotor in the shape of the pad the first time it happened, but I replaced it when I replaced the flex hose.
Both times I had the wheel off to install the new hose/re lube pins I didn't notice any brake line damage, though I admit I didn't inspect closely. The driver's side works perfectly, so it would probably have to be damaged pretty close to the wheel. There are no noticeable leaks.
What happens is the truck seems to be not moving as much as it should be, and sure enough you can smell the burning brake pad and the wheel is hot. There was a burn mark on the rotor in the shape of the pad the first time it happened, but I replaced it when I replaced the flex hose.
#4
It is possible that you got a defective caliper. That's why parts are sold with warranties. I would remove the caliper and exchange it under the warranty if you can. I work in a shop and defective parts do happen I get a defective part around every other week. It sucks but it does happen.
#5
It is possible that you got a defective caliper. That's why parts are sold with warranties. I would remove the caliper and exchange it under the warranty if you can. I work in a shop and defective parts do happen I get a defective part around every other week. It sucks but it does happen.
#7
Time flies, I checked my Rock Auto order history and it looks like I replaced this caliper in 2013. Consensus here seems to be that the rear calipers on these things tend to corrode and seize if you try to push the piston back in. I hope when I try this I don't make it worse.
#9
I have had the same problem with my rear brakes as well off and on for the past couple of years or so. My blazer gives off a "howl that starts when I move the truck(forward or reverse does not matter) it lasts for about 20 feet or so then stops. After it sits for a few hours usually overnight it starts again. Last year it was a rear passenger side caliper that was stuck it was replaced along with new pads and rotors. This year the pads on both sides were seized on both sides with the drivers side worse than the passenger. A brake service was done where I took the brakes apart lubed up everything and ground a hair off of where the pads sit in the caliper. Howl is gone and brakes are performing well. I hope I explained this well enough. I am going to do this service every 6 months or so. We will see. Hope this helps a little
regards
regards
#10
Went out to do some inspecting today. Caliper was stuck fast to rotor, so I used a c clamp to compress the piston. It actually seemed to move smoothy with little effort.
Found that the inboard pad was severely worn, enough to where I didn't like the idea of putting it back on and driving it to work tomorrow. But it also didn't make sense to me to put new pads on a questionable caliper. So I said the hell with it and bought a new caliper, pads and rotor from AZ. Everything seems to be okay now, drove it for 20 miles. So it looks like the piston wasn't retracting for some reason.
Found that the inboard pad was severely worn, enough to where I didn't like the idea of putting it back on and driving it to work tomorrow. But it also didn't make sense to me to put new pads on a questionable caliper. So I said the hell with it and bought a new caliper, pads and rotor from AZ. Everything seems to be okay now, drove it for 20 miles. So it looks like the piston wasn't retracting for some reason.