Lol, possibly, but the alarm system is a game changer for possible problems

 

I have removed the Alarm and it didn't do any difference, still dead.

I then thought about it and since it isn't getting any proper spark at the coil I decided to test the old coil. And it started directly with it :-)

Let it run on idle for ten minutes and decided to take it for a drive. OK so far but on the road out of my block I floored it and it died again. It hesitated and died. Had to tow it back again :-(

When back I tried it once more and it came alive but died after a few seconds.

No codes...

The only thing left now is the fuel regulator, or...

If it is the ECM it would give me a code, right?

This long story has to come to an end.


Thanks


Jan

 

Went out just now and tried some more. Tried first with ignition on and off and I could hear the pump buzzing, not always when I had it on but mostly.
What I did was turning it on and off with a few seconds in off position and then the pump wouldn't buzz every time.

When I cranked and stopped cranking I could hear the pump buzzing a while when ignition was still on.

I checked with the sparktester on the coil, no spark. Now I have the old coil mounted. Connected the new coil and got spark. Connected it to the distributor and it started, ran it for a few minutes on idle. Shut it off and connected the old coil and started and it did run. Conclusion: Both Coils are OK.

Now I'd let it run for a long time (like 10 minutes) on idle with an occasional hit on the pedal. Hooked up my code reader to check live data. Did rev it slowly up to 3000 rpm and no problem, slowly returned to idle. Then some short WOT's without problem, before it died when doing WOT's.

Let it idle some more. Shut it off. Started. Shut it off. Started.

Behaved perfectly normal.

I did not drive it though, my wife's towing service is closed tonight.

Will give it another try tomorrow.


I guess I have to check the wiring to the coil, ignition module and crank sensor. Something must be loose or not connected properly since the spark is not reliable all the time.


Jan

 

Well, well, well...

It seems that my car finally can run by itslef :-)

Just got back for a 20 mile test run and it went without any trouble at all.

I now have the old coil in it.

When all this started the first thing I did was to replace the Ignition module and the Coil. Then it went downhill as this story is a long one. My conclusion is that the new coil was crap! It wasn't a AC Delco as you guys suggest that we always should use.

I will do a few more test runs to see what happens but I believe that it is OK now, fingers crossed.

Many many thanks to Lancelot and Captain Hook for support and great patience.

Just one thing to fix and that the Hazard button that I broke off when I changed the ignition switch. At the moment it is kept in place by duct tape.

Thanks


Jan

 

We'll keep our fingers crossed, thanks for posting back.

Here's the hazard switch: Amazon.com: Dorman 924-608 Hazard Switch: Automotive

 

Thanks, just ordered one. Shipping cost 3 times the items price but that is with priority mail and delivered in 2-3 days.

My neighbour just called and said that it was blinking on our driveway, the duct tape had let go so I pulled the fuse.

Thanks again


Jan

 

In post #52 I thought you said you had to get it towed home with the old coil in?? Maybe the crank sensor was the problem and the coil was wrongly replaced first. To make matters worse the coil was bad. The way I understand it now either the crank sensor or ignition module was actually the problem and the bad replacement coil created another. I hope this is the fix for you and you are rewarded for your patience.

 

Yes, that's right.

So many things have been going on with it and over a couple of months...

Might have been something with the alarm anyway.

I will try once more with the new coil and see if the problem is still there.

Thanks


Jan

 

For those who remember this long story of mine here is an update.

Since I got it running it has some times stuttered or stopped but always started again. Once it stopped and had to be towed home but then it started again.

I have suspected a loose cable or something because everything has died when it stops, even the radio dies and all saved stations has to be reprogrammed.

Anyway took a look at it today after it stopped a few times yesterday.

Now I have found the cause and probably this was the fault from the early beginning. The connector to the coil is bad. If the engine is running and I jerk the connector or the cables going in to it the engine instantly dies. If I jerk it around it dies and comes to live again, stuttering some in between.

So all the hassle and all parts I replaced was all unnecessary, sometimes life with cars is hell...

So now I'm going to buy a simple a few dollars connector to finally get this problem fixed once for all!!


Thanks for all who participated and gave advise, who would have suspected this?


Thanks again

Jan

 

The faulty ignition coil connector explains why it stalls. Replacing the connector & pigtail should take care of it. However, the faulty coil connector is not the cause of the radio issue. The coil & the radio are on totally different, non related, circuits.