I did a search for Door Hinge Pins and did not see my question listed. I understand the process about removing / replacing the pins and putting the door on a jack or block of wood and having the door either tied up to a roof rafter or held by a helper. My question, if you don't have someone or something to hold the door up could you replace one hinge pin at a time instead of removing both of them and then replacing both? Thanks in advance, John

 

I would think that if the door isn't supported it may put too much stress on the connected hinge and damage the hinge or new pins and bushings.

 

Sure you can. No one can replace both of them simultaneously. Its always gonna be one at a time. I tied my door thru the window to the garage door track. The sad part is you need that $20 tool to remove and replace the spring. I did put some duck tape on the door and fender edges so they didnt get scrapped up.

 

You can get this spring tool from harbor freight.


GM Vehicle Door Spring Tool

 

You can do the job yourself. I did, twice so far with just a rag on the floor jack supporting the bottom of the door. You can't just do one pin at a time. You need to remove both pins so you can slide the door out enough to hammer out the old porous copper sleeves and put the new ones in. I would recomend you do not hammer the new ones in as they crack easily. I would use the bolt, nuts and washers method and press them in. They will last longer. Definately tape up the front edge of the door (like the first 6 inches or so) and the back edge of the front fenders to avoid scratching the hell out of your paint. I would use painters tape but duct tape works too. Hopefully you are getting to this before your hinges are ovaled out.

 

I understand that you can't do the two simultaneously. What I meant and what Little Roober answered for me was could you take one out and replace it and then take out the other one and replace that one. I didn't realize that you would need to hammer out the sleeves. If you don't want to buy the spring compressor there is a video on YouTube that describes how to compress and install the spring without the tool. The tech used a vise to compress the spring and while it was compressed used 3 cable ties (zip ties) to hold it compressed. Put it in place and then cut two of the cable ties, he said that the 3rd one would eventually break. For the cost of the tool (found it on eBay) I think I will go that route, thanks to all for the replies, John

 

they also sell that tool at harbor frieght for 10 bucks

 

I did it by myself also. It takes a little but it's possible. I used a cut off tool to cut the pins. It was a lot easier than trying to punch them out. I cut them in half then used vice grips and wiggled them out. It's worth the few bucks to buy the tool.

 

Sorry grizzstang is right. You need to remove both to get the bushings out. I pulled the bushings in with a 1/4in threaded rod and some nuts. You need the tool for the springs. Vise grips or zip ties will not work. I tried installing a spring by compressing it in a vise then tying with wire. The wire kept breaking. I did pop it out at the junkyard but getting it in was not that easy. Used welding wire to tie it. When it came time to do the hinges I bought the tool.

 

I did both of my pins on the drivers side not to long ago, easier then I thought or I just got lucky. I did buy the tool off ebay for about 10 bucks (Makes it a lot easier). But, I took a hook and found a stud in my garage and screw the hook into it, use some rope to hold the door (Rope door, hook), I got lucky two ways with my bushings and pins, They came out with just a small tap with a bolt and they were out. The holes were in great shape, no rounding out, so I just had to put the new bushing and pins in. I think I use a pair of vice gripes to hole the bushings steady and tap them in. I squeeze them as far as I could at first using the vice grips. If it weren't for having to find a stud for the hook and securing the rope around the door, 1/2 an hour tops to do both bushings. I have left the hook in the ceiling for when I do the pass door. I though about using a jack under the door, but with my luck I would screw the door up somehow, those doors are very heavy.