I would appreciate some help on how to change a rear u-joint and what tools are needed. Also, my oil lines to the filter are leaking. Does anyone know parts numbers for those and have experience changing them? They seem difficult to get to at the engine block.

 

I use a large vice and some sockets to press the rear u-joint apart and to press the new one back in. It helps to have a helper to hold the driveshaft. I highly suggest you use some type of spacer to keep from pushing the ends of the driveshaft closer together. I use a piece of pipe that will just fit over the u-joint cap. I cut it in half so instead of being round it is shaped like a C. Cut it so it will just barely fit between the ends of the driveshaft.

I get the oil lines at the auto store as they are usually made by Dorman and have a lifetime warrany. On some models you have to take the motor mount bolt out, jack the engine up and put a 2x4 in the mount to have enough room to get the oil line out. On others there is enough room with out doing this. I use some long 3/8" extensions together with a socket and come from the front along the oil lines to take the bolt out the holds the back end of the oil lines in place.

 

while i haven't had to change the line's on my '98 (yet), i did have the lines off on my '92 a few times (don't ask).
first thing, remove your front skid plate where your filter is.
to get at the bolt holding the lines to the block adapter, i just used two 12" extensions & a 6" extension (i think), to bring my ratchet out to the front of the engine. fished the extensions through the lines (put the socket on last, it gives you more room to line up), and removed the bolt. unless you are leaking @ the block as well, do not remove the two bolts that go up through the engine adapter block. unbolt the lines from the filter block as well. if you're changing the seals, you may as well change them @ both ends, it also makes it easier to manoeuver.
i figure the 2nd gen trucks are probably a hell of alot easier to change/remove these lines, since you don't need to rotate the lines down from inside the fender (like on the 1st gen's). installation is in reverse order, once you get under there, it's pretty straight forward.
as for your U-joints, are they the stock (factory installed) ones? if they are you'll need to use a torch to "warm up" the yok ends of the drive shaft. when the U-joints are installed at the factory, they're held in place by having nylon injected around the cups. when you look @ the yokes (around the cups), you'll see a little "nipple" of (usually) light blue plastic. when you warm up this area, the nylon melts, and is forced out these small holes. when the nylon is finished pushing itself out, it usually "pops" like a cork. i usually wait a little to let the ends cool before pressing out the cups with my ball joint/universal press tool. i've done them while they're still fairly warm, and have bent the ends inward, which will cause the new U-joint to bind and wear out prematurely. i used to just drive them out with a simialr diameter socket and a big hammer, but found i was doing the same damage of pushing in the ends, killing my new U-joints quickly.
press the U-joint through one side first (this will "drive out" the oposite side), pulloff that cup, and then rotate it over 180 degrees to push it back through, which will push the other cup out. the U-joint itself can now be wiggled out.
before you install the new U-joint, take some emery paper (or sand paper), and lightly clean up the inside of the area where the cups sit, making it easier to install them. i lightly coat the inside area with a little grease, to reduce friction before putting on the new cups. ***BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANY OF THE NEEDLE BEARINGS FROM INSIDE THE NEW CUPS*** if this happens, just be sure to clean them off really well, and slip them back inside (you can use your finger to put it back into the cup). installation is the reverse. slip in the U-joint itself, then place one cup on the outside, slipping the U-joint into the cup (this will keep the needle bearings from falling out), and press it in until the groove in the new cup is just past the inside of the yoke. do the same for the second side, slipping the U-joint into the cup before pressing it in. be careful not to push the cups in to far, as this will cause it to bind when driving. lastly insert the "C" clip into the grove on the cups. clean the yoke on your diff and the retainers to ensure the new U-joint is held in properly. insert the new cups into the diif yoke, making sure that both cups are sitting inside the tabs (little tabs on the yoke itself) since this is what will prevent them from falling out while you're driving-you don't want that to happen, beleive me!.

hope this helps. it's not a complicated job, just be thurough, and you should get through it no problem.

 

not trying to cut your post there terry, i just can't beleive i started writing mine 10 mins after he posted the thread up. guess i was to detailed (ie; long winded) hahahaha.

 

No problem. I have had the same thing happen. You gave a much better detail than I did. I have never heated them as pressing them out with the vice shears the nylon. As you know if you try to pound them out with a hammer the nylon will not shear. GRRRR

Try the trick with the spacer it really works to keep from squeezing the ends of the drive shaft in. Anything that will act as a spacer will work, but the 1/2 pipe works good. If you ever get one that is bent in take a large bolt that is just long enough to fit between the ends. Put a nut on it and when you unscrew the nut you can pust the ends apart. Just do not over do it.

 

[My method was to heat the joint with a basic propane torch and it got hot enough that the nylon melted right out and easily was removed with a ball hammer...Good Luck..

 

i became a master of that after wrecking the second U-joint in 2 weeks!

 

I didn't read all of each post. But I read a post on another forum about OIL LINE replacement, using Aero-Quip (steel braided lines) & fittings to make a lifelong fix for about $100. Parts are available from Summitracing.com or any hydraulic supply house. Use #8 hose & fittings.

 

Dorman part number for the block to filter lines is 625-001
and filter to oil cooler is 625-100 iirc.
Hopefully this helps schucks/oreillys carries these.

 

but then you need to change the way it connects to the filter housing and engine block. i only paid $63.71 for my oil lines-and that's Canadian.