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2001 Blazer 4x4 Engine Mount Replacement

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Old 10-11-2010, 09:31 AM
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Default 2001 Blazer 4x4 Engine Mount Replacement

I've been trying to search the forums and web for instructions on how to replace the engine/motor mounts but haven't found much of anything. I thought it was going to be a one day job, but it seems to be a bit more difficult than that. I'm at to the point now of dropping the front axle to gain access to even see the mount because the front pumpkin is blocking any sort of access to it.

Does anyone have any tips or advice with replacing the mounts? This is one of the more frustrating jobs I've done in a long time. I can swap an entire engine and trans in a few of my cars with the amount of time i've spent on even trying to even see the mount's bolts.

I appreciate any advice or links you can provide.
 
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:17 AM
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Oh god. This is getting worse and worse everytime I search more:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/showth...teering&page=2
 
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:19 AM
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It's not fun, that part is for sure.
 
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:34 AM
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^^^You got that right.

I figured I'd tackle the passenger side because it looks a bit easier without the diff pumpkin in the way. It took about 3 hours to replace it. I had to pull the starter jack up the engine and i just barely had enough room to start threading in the bolts with the new mount. I was also hoping by doing teh passenger side first i'd get some tricks to make the driverside easier, but i dont think there's much that can help. Anyway i look at it it's going to be a royal PITA.

Supid question, how do i remove the cable that goes into the side of the front diff? It looks like a speedo cable, but it's not. I guess it's the cable that locks the front diff? I'm pulling on it and it doesnt want to come out. Is there some sort of trick to remove it?

Thanks for any input. I'd like to get it all back together this weekend.
 
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:39 AM
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For the engagement cable, you have to remove those 3 bolts, then there will be a clip inside. Disengage the clip and the cable will be free.
 
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
For the engagement cable, you have to remove those 3 bolts, then there will be a clip inside. Disengage the clip and the cable will be free.

Wow. Thank you very much for the quick reply.
 
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:44 PM
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Well tonight I have both new mounts in and the engine is back down where it's supposed to be. It took an hour or so to do the driverside mount. Not as bad as i thought, but no cake walk either. God i wish i had tiny hands. To get the mounts basically you have to loosen up the differential, but you don't HAVE to drop it completely out. If you can wiggle it around that should be more than enough room. Also, raising the engine as much as possible also helps a great deal.

Now it's time to put everything back together since I pulled the front hubs apart and pulled the cv axles. Oh well. Now I can clean it all up and grease up the fittings. While I was under the hood i noticed an open vacuum line. I fixed that so hopefully it runs a little better.

Thanks for all the help with this little project.
 
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:29 AM
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Getting my drivers side done Friday...took my mechanic a few hours to do the passengers side. Flipping mounts COULD have been thought out a little better...the passenger side was the one I thought wasn't bad...but the rubber had sheared off of the metal on that side.
 
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:34 PM
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Default Need advice

So I need some advice in this area. My front differential is out....I cracked it putting in zr2 axle....long story I'm pissed and have another diff ready to throw back up. As I am inspecting things, I realize that the motor mount directly above the differential is missing a bolt WTF??? because of this, the metal piece that is welded to the frame has bent slightly down. I was considering attempting to replace the motor mount, but I will still be left with bent frame, I will post a picture a little later, but any suggestions? I was also considering just trying to put a bolt from the junk yard in, cranking on it and seeing if I could bent the thing back, but seems unlikely.

Last time I trade someone truck for a truck...some parts of this thing were held together with toothpicks... literally.
 
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