I just blew out my driver's side front brake line (hard line) on my 1997 Blazer 4x4 yesterday. My question is does anyone know what size is the fitting coming off the ABS? It's larger than the fitting connecting into the rubber flex hose. I know the line is 3/16 diameter. Also, does anyone know about how long with the spiral is the line?
Thanks a bunch.

 

The line is SAE but the fittings are metric. Best to remove them and take the fittings to a parts store and match them up. Most auto parts stores have adapters that will change over to 3/16" inverted flare steel line.

 

this and
the fittings at the ABS may also be bubble flare

 

Thanks. I got them soaking in PB Blaster now. Hope to remove them soon.

 

what i usually do at work alot is the brake lines usually blow underneath the vehicle and the spiral section and fitting are good, so ill cut the line a little bit after the spiral section, re-flare it with just a standard 3/16th threaded end on it, then you can just buy a union and add to it. that way you dont have to mess around trying to re spiral the line and trying to get it ran in its perfect spot.

if the spiral is bad ill just reuse the fitting that goes into the adapter unless you can find it at the parts store, but some vehicles use a really weird end that you cant find

 

Why is there a spiral?

 

I just finished mine last week, the line size is for sure 3/16" I got a 30" peice and it worked good, dont try and replicate the spiral, i found it just got in the way and if you leave the other two spirals in place the new line will never fit if you make it a spiral. The line end that fits into the Brake hose is a standard 3/16" usa flare, when you buy it at the parts store you can get it pre-made like that. The abs side, just cut the end off, and it is a standard usa flare as well, just re-use the same nut. it should not be in bad condition because it is right off the Abs module and out of the way of debris.

One thing to note, keep the new line high and above the shock on the left side when you place the new one, also, pull the black rubber shielding away inside the wheel well and check the second brake line going to the right, if one is shot, the other is almost there, especially where it bends up and around the shock. Might as well do two while you are in there.

Bleeding should be simple, the left front usually bleeds in about four or six pumps of the pedal because the lines so short.

I wrote this excerpt to help you, because with my searches in the past few weeks I found nothing to indicate any of this info. Hope it helps.!

 

When it comes time to bleed, DON'T pump the pedal. If the master cylinder runs dry at any time, the ABS unit will injest air and you will end up with a mushy pedal, or no pedal at all. If the pedal is pumped, air will become trapped inside the ABS unit. Gravity bleed until no bubbles are present exiting the bleeders. The ABS unit must then be bled using the automated bleed function with a capable scan tool. Then bleed as normal at the bleeders.

 

abig84: I was planning on doing exactly what you mentioned. The spiral and above are in good condition so I am planning on taking the two front lines off, cutting, re-flare and add a union.

Captain Hook: Since I've have to take the lines off the ABS to fix I will run the master cylinder dry doing that. So after I get the lines back on gravity bleed all brake lines in the normal order or do I just gravity bleed the fronts?

 

the master cylinder and upper part of the brake lines are attached to the body of the vehicle and as they start to go under the vehicle they attach to the frame, there is some movement of the body on the frame and its just to prevent excessive movement of the lines during flex so they dont break.

a lot of newer cars have a stainless steel braided section instead of the spiral and ive seen on older trucks where they will just run the brake line forward like a foot then have it circle back.