The saga continues; I just replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump within the last two weeks. The other day my wife goes to fill the tank and fuel starts pouring out of somewhere, in front of the rear drivers side wheel. Last night I got under there and checked (as best I could see and feel) if there was any raw fuel leaking out of the top of the tank (I filled it up to MAX with a gas can in the driveway, she started leaking real good). No fuel on the top of the tank. Fuel filter is dry and tight. Oh well, could be a leaking fuel line maybe, that runs along the top of the frame rail. Gotta drop the tank, sighhhhh. Fortunately, since all the bolts are new and slathered with "never seize", I had the tank out in 10 minutes (after draining it). Drained the tank completely, filled it with water, and lo and behold, there are 3 pinhole leaks in the side of the gas tank above the seam line on the side of the tank that sits against the frame rail. I surface cleaned the loose rust and cleaned the tank down to bare, shiny metal. This area of the tank has "skin" like an orange. Has anyone ever used "JB Weld" to patch a gas tank? The package instructions say it can be used for "fuel tanks" as well as many other things. Your thoughts. Thanks for the input.

UPDATE: If anybody remembers, I was the one who repaired the tank rubber couplings with "Krazy Glue" and I initially suspected that the couplings might have failed...NOPE. The rubber couplings were perfect with no signs of seam failure at all. So far, so good, there anyway.

 

My dad used that stuff to fix a leak in our motor home gas tank right before a big trip one time, still holding strong! Just make sure you follow the directions very carefully because this is kind of inportant to get right.

 

Having the tank removed maybe is better to swap it. Or to solder it with tin. Or even oxygen , when filled with water and no chances to get a vapours trap. I mean is probable that any other rusted point will fail soon.

 

Yep, I thought of that too, that the other rusted areas would or could potentially fail soon after thus I'd be battling a series of continuous failures, BUT I was careful to really knock off all the other surface rust with a wire wheel on my grinder. All the surface rust if off and I'm down to clean metal. The tank will be filled and checked for additional leaks once the JB Weld sets up. I'm thinking, if I get another leak before I put the tank back in, I'll replace the tank, but if not, I'll take my chances and hope she holds for a couple more years (I'm shooting for a 2 yr. extended life). The tank will be thoroughly cleaned on the outside (inside too), leak tested, JB Welded (where necessary) and primed and painted. That should hold her for awhile (I hope).

Thanks for the input! The note from Canadian88 was most encouraging!