ignition
#1
ignition
OK here's the story.
I bought a 96 blazer that needed head gaskets, put everything back together, charged the battery over night, changed the oil, filled the coolant, etc.
new ignition(coil, ICM, Cap, rotor, wires) and I'm getting a weak spark from the wires , tested spark from coil=strong,
tested spark from plug wires=weak and almost non-existent
Any ideas?
I bought a 96 blazer that needed head gaskets, put everything back together, charged the battery over night, changed the oil, filled the coolant, etc.
new ignition(coil, ICM, Cap, rotor, wires) and I'm getting a weak spark from the wires , tested spark from coil=strong,
tested spark from plug wires=weak and almost non-existent
Any ideas?
#5
Yah, the same part was listed under both the pick-up coil and crank sensor.
Now it won't start with the Mass Airflow Sensor plugged in and there is a knock that has turned out to be a bent rod, probably from the pressure of the coolant that was in the cylinder on top of the piston....uggghh
When I bought it, it seemed like a good deal, $1,000 with only 154,000 miles on it and all it needed was a head gasket. Well, I tear it down and both intake manifold gaskets leaked and there was coolant in the #5 and #6 cylinders. Now about $250 later after gaskets of all sorts, new ignition parts oil, coolant, plugs and now new push rods I'm starting to think not such a good deal.
Just frustrated, thanks for listening.
Now it won't start with the Mass Airflow Sensor plugged in and there is a knock that has turned out to be a bent rod, probably from the pressure of the coolant that was in the cylinder on top of the piston....uggghh
When I bought it, it seemed like a good deal, $1,000 with only 154,000 miles on it and all it needed was a head gasket. Well, I tear it down and both intake manifold gaskets leaked and there was coolant in the #5 and #6 cylinders. Now about $250 later after gaskets of all sorts, new ignition parts oil, coolant, plugs and now new push rods I'm starting to think not such a good deal.
Just frustrated, thanks for listening.
#8
That would be the cam sensor. The crank sensor is located at the front bottom of the engine.
#9
Yup, camshaft position sensor is in the distributor, and it can not cause a no start condition, (the engine will start and run with the sensor disconnected). After replacing the sensor, camshaft retard must be checked/adjusted using a capable scan tool.
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