I nearly got stranded at the market this AM. Turned the key, got my dash lites and chime sounds, but after the last twist - nothing. Battery & Alternator are nearly brand new. I made sure the (pos) connector was tight and loosened and re-connected the (neg) cable several times. After 4-5 times, it started. You should know that when running I have some dash lites/symbols that are on: Battery, ABS, Security and Seat Belt (mostly, not always. usually goes out after a while). Plus the Temp Gauge doesn't work and the Gear Selector doesn't highlite what gear I'm in. This light/gauge situation used to come and go but lately it's this way nearly all the time. Rarely, I get the Temp Gauge and Gear high-lite back but still have the other lites. The Security lite remains on when parked/off. When this first started happening, I read other posts and thought I needed a new ignition cylinder. Among other things, I recall reading that too many keys on the key-ring can cause the cylinder to fail. (I have 6 additional keys. Is this a lot?) I read more posts today and now I am unclear about whether it's the cylinder or the module that is dying. If it could be either, which is more likely? Would a diagnostic code reading point to the problem? I will not be doing the work myself. Just want to tell my shop what forum members say I need. It's a '98 with 147K miles but I've only had it since November and it (probably) still has the original pieces.

Thanks!

 

For the intermittent warning indicators: If DTC U1064 is in memory, it is indicating the BCM, (Body Control Module) lost communication with the IPC, (Instrument Panel Cluster). You can check the connector on top of the cluster to verify if this is the problem. The cluster trim must be removed to expose the connector. Turn the ignition to the RUN position and gently wiggle the connector in each direction, slightly flexing the printed circuit board that the connector is attached to. If the indicators blink or go out, you'll need to remove the IPC from the dash. Remove the back cover: The black plastic cover is secured to the housing by 5 or 6 clips. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to unlatch them. Then remove the printed circuit board from the housing: Lift gently around the fuel, oil pressure, temperature and ammeter gauges and the circuit board will come off of the cluster housing. On the top of the circuit board is one electrical connector, (the one you wiggled). The connector has 24 pins that are soldered to the printed circuit board. Using a magnifying glass, look for "cold" solder joints, (cracked or broken). Using a pencil soldering iron, heat each pin until the solder flows.

 

If it is failing, the ICM will cause a failure to start when the engine is hot causing the ICM to heat up. Take it to AutoZone, etc. and have them test it for about 10 cycles to get it good and warm. If it shows failure at that point, replace it.

 

I like reading all the answers in the forums that I go to. Nobody can agree upon anything. Someone puts down somebody else for giving the wrong information and then they try to get technical with the correct information that they looked up on Google. Nobody knows what they're talking about. The people who get really technical are long-winded and boring. Sometimes a quick direct answer is the best answer oh, and if you really don't know, don't give an answer. No one wants to sift through 30 long-winded replies to find that one that may help them. Nobody wants to read a book nor do they need bul**** answers.

 

That's different. Is this some kind of spam or new trojan forum infection? Dude, If this is for real, we help and educate people here. There are plenty of other like minded places to hang out where people shame and criticize each other. I cant give you any specific recommendations but apparently you have a lot of choices. If you believe that the internet is just full of useless information and that bothers you, just turn it off and read some technical books like in the olden days.

 

Apparently he thinks one symptom = one problem = one simple answer. If only that was true.... Helping a non-technical person diagnose their vehicle through the Internet can be quite difficult and may require a lot of explanation and long technical answers. If I sense they are not paying attention or trying to cut corners, then I'm done.

 

Maybe he can get together with a few like minded people with broken Blazers and start a new forum called howtofixyourblazertalkingtostrangersonthe internetin5wordsorless dot com. #replaceeverysensorandseewhathappens

I would stalk that site to see how that is done.

George