I'm Back in a Blazer this time with issues (long post)
#41
07-02-2016, 02:23 AM
I installed the mu1735 weeks ago. No issues since then fires up fast no matter what gauge reads correct.
#42
07-02-2016, 02:40 AM
Just going through this thread. I ended up snapping one of the thermostat housing studs off in the intake. Then did so much damage to the intake trying to get it out that I needed to replace the intake. I lucked out and found an 03 astro that had the same non egr intake in the scrap yard cleaned it up all nice and shiny and did all the top end gaskets. She's been running great for the last week or two. But now I have to circle back to the vacuum issue.
Bought the truck vacuum was all disconnected
When I hooked it up it pulled gear oil up from the t case
Changed the t case switch purged the lines
Replaced the hvac controller
Replaced the vacuum actuator behind the glove box as it was torn
Now I have full controls but like I said before under long periods of acceleration I hear it changing all over the place.
The line that runs from the vacuum resivoir down to the t case is badly dry rotted. So fingers crossed it is the cause but it looks like a serious pain to change
I still haven't hooked up the t case vent libe beca use my hands are to big. So you said I can take out the trans cross member and lower it a little bit. Do I need to disconnect anything else or just as easy as that? Probably will take the distributor cap off just as a precaution.
Bought the truck vacuum was all disconnected
When I hooked it up it pulled gear oil up from the t case
Changed the t case switch purged the lines
Replaced the hvac controller
Replaced the vacuum actuator behind the glove box as it was torn
Now I have full controls but like I said before under long periods of acceleration I hear it changing all over the place.
The line that runs from the vacuum resivoir down to the t case is badly dry rotted. So fingers crossed it is the cause but it looks like a serious pain to change
I still haven't hooked up the t case vent libe beca use my hands are to big. So you said I can take out the trans cross member and lower it a little bit. Do I need to disconnect anything else or just as easy as that? Probably will take the distributor cap off just as a precaution.
#43
11-13-2016, 09:10 PM
can't edit 2 posts above I installed a mu1733 - i rarely drive the blazer because it is becoming a bit of a sore subject. shortly after installing the new Fuel pump ~50 miles i got a p0440 that i have just been ignoring out of frustration. now my smog is due. i could not for the life of me remember if the kit i got actually had the pump seal to tank with it so i was getting ready to drop the tank yesterday and realized I didn't reconnect the hard plastic vent line that goes to the evap canister (just forward of the filler neck, and to the driver side of the fuel pump assembly.) once i reconnected it i drove it maybe 2 miles and the light went out. i was pretty mad at myself over that not to mention the amount of gas i probably lost out of that opening, without knowing, over the past few months was probably fairly dangerous.
I sold the s10 a couple months back
On the blazer I had a large dent in the driver side rear door since this is my "education vehicle" i took a crack at body work. i will toot my own horn i did a duplicolor spray paint job in the driveway after kocking the dent out and smoothing it out. I painted from that door all the way to the back blending it into the existing paint and fixed all the paint issues that bothered me. after tons of wet sanding, polishing, and 3 attempts total it came out near perfect. i am extremely happy with the results.
yesterday I decided to go after the vacuum actuators in the dash above the accelerator pedal as i determined them to be the most likely cause of my leak. everything i could find said i had to pull the dash to change the mode door actuator my guess is i was reading posts about pre 1998 vehicles as i was able to remove the hush panels and actuators with the dash still in place fairly easily. i purchased a handheld vacuum pump and tested the actuators the defrost one was good but the mode door was bad so that should fix the last of the current vacuum issues once it gets here. since 2 out of 3 have been bad i went ahead and replaced the defrost one as a precaution anyway.
after changing the UCA's, pitman, idler and LCA bushings all ball joints and steering components i have randomly gotten a few clunks when backing out of the drive way or going over speed bumps I was under the impression that i may have left something loose or that one of the cheaper ball joints i purchased may have failed already. Possible the inner tie rod ends that i didnt change since they were good at the time. after quick checking i could find nothing wrong rocking the tire etc. so i put it on the back burner. since i really should/could change the steering box too as it shows signs of wear but are much less since the rest of the components were replaced.
Mid last week i replaced the water pump that had developed a pretty decent leak that i would attribute to probably chunks of crud getting into the loop while doing the LIM gasket despite my best efforts. The radiator also had started to leak from the end caps and main core. It was not truly able to keep up with the a/c on in 115 degree summer heat at idle for more than a few minutes probably a combination of the water pump and radiator leaking finger crossed. So i back flushed the cooling loop and replaced the water pump, radiator, heater, upper, and lower radiator hoses.
fast forward to today I decided to do a low mileage oil change today its' been ~750 miles since last change as the last change was after i did the LIM gaskets so i wanted to be sure that i got any/all coolant out of the oil before the winter season while it will be mostly sitting, it's my summer jet ski tow vehicle. Also because i was able to get pennzoil ultra platinum high mileage oil for $12 for 5 qts at that price, I might as well. while i was under there i decided to take another crack at the slow oil leak which at this point only comes out of the bellhousing so i am pretty sure it's the rear main maybe a drop or 3 a week. although the front side of the oil has a shine too it and appears to possibly be leaking from the remote cooler/filter adapter to the block but even less than the other tiny leak. I added lucas oil stop leak back to the engine and it stopped the leak on the oil change prior to last. while i was down there I saw large amounts of grease that appeared to have flung off the inner driver side CV. Now i am under the impression that the random clunk i get it is from a failing CV. so there's that now.
so on my outstanding list of items that need to be addressed:
monitor CV - locate front end clunk
drill out rivets in driver side window regulator and replace with bolts - the driver window tries to roll down and won't when the panel has been getting direct sun and is hot to the touch. i am hopeful the motor is fine but the rivets have shifted adding stress to the motor. This was the cause and solution in both my dads 2000 sierra 2500 and my 01 sierra years back. it's that or at least with bolts it will be easier to replace the motor/regulator with parts from the scrap yard once it's bolted in either way.
i feel that i should do fluid changes on the diffs and t-case but looking for input on that
Also looking for input the trans shifts very firm from 1-2 not breaking tire loose but what I considered a "tow/haul" mode firm shift on my 2001 sierra only when the engine is cold. it seems to lessen as it warms up. also when i have the windows down 1-2 and 2-3 i can hear what i could only describe as a very faint "clang" on those shifts. there are not an dash warnings so maybe i am just being hyper-sensitive. Should I change the trans fluid, filter, and internal shift actuators or just let it be? i honestly haven't even checked the trans fluid level yet. truck has 145k miles i am under the impression that the PO would have done fluid changes at the recommended intervals. previously since most items appear to be newer and OEM i assume the trans was serviced in the 75-100k window but i kind of fall into the don't change the 4l60e fluid unless you are rebuilding it school of thought.
still need to change the vacuum line from to the t-case its' in a very dry rotted stated but does not loose any vacuum pressure when tested so it's less urgent to me now.
the t-case vent line i still haven't reconnected as it seems like it will be a pain to drop the cross member to reach and reconnect it. once again it's probably fairly easy but this truck has my slightly pissed right now.
the list is shorter than ever but my frustration level is high currently so I am getting easily frustrated. It feels like everything i fix causes 2 more issues to pop up. I will say again as far as schedule maintenance was concerned the previous owner kept up on it very well it's all the stuff that most people won't fix unless it's broken that i have been working on. Also we were going to go on a road trip to So-Cal a few weeks back and i was thinking about taking the blazer as it is great for road tripping comfort wise but my GF was not confident we would make it 4 hours away. so we took my daily driver instead. To be fair to her i wasn't confident it would make it either and the water pump/radiator pretty much died about 50 miles after we got home from the trip. so we wouldn't have made it there most likely lol.
I sold the s10 a couple months back
On the blazer I had a large dent in the driver side rear door since this is my "education vehicle" i took a crack at body work. i will toot my own horn i did a duplicolor spray paint job in the driveway after kocking the dent out and smoothing it out. I painted from that door all the way to the back blending it into the existing paint and fixed all the paint issues that bothered me. after tons of wet sanding, polishing, and 3 attempts total it came out near perfect. i am extremely happy with the results.
yesterday I decided to go after the vacuum actuators in the dash above the accelerator pedal as i determined them to be the most likely cause of my leak. everything i could find said i had to pull the dash to change the mode door actuator my guess is i was reading posts about pre 1998 vehicles as i was able to remove the hush panels and actuators with the dash still in place fairly easily. i purchased a handheld vacuum pump and tested the actuators the defrost one was good but the mode door was bad so that should fix the last of the current vacuum issues once it gets here. since 2 out of 3 have been bad i went ahead and replaced the defrost one as a precaution anyway.
after changing the UCA's, pitman, idler and LCA bushings all ball joints and steering components i have randomly gotten a few clunks when backing out of the drive way or going over speed bumps I was under the impression that i may have left something loose or that one of the cheaper ball joints i purchased may have failed already. Possible the inner tie rod ends that i didnt change since they were good at the time. after quick checking i could find nothing wrong rocking the tire etc. so i put it on the back burner. since i really should/could change the steering box too as it shows signs of wear but are much less since the rest of the components were replaced.
Mid last week i replaced the water pump that had developed a pretty decent leak that i would attribute to probably chunks of crud getting into the loop while doing the LIM gasket despite my best efforts. The radiator also had started to leak from the end caps and main core. It was not truly able to keep up with the a/c on in 115 degree summer heat at idle for more than a few minutes probably a combination of the water pump and radiator leaking finger crossed. So i back flushed the cooling loop and replaced the water pump, radiator, heater, upper, and lower radiator hoses.
fast forward to today I decided to do a low mileage oil change today its' been ~750 miles since last change as the last change was after i did the LIM gaskets so i wanted to be sure that i got any/all coolant out of the oil before the winter season while it will be mostly sitting, it's my summer jet ski tow vehicle. Also because i was able to get pennzoil ultra platinum high mileage oil for $12 for 5 qts at that price, I might as well. while i was under there i decided to take another crack at the slow oil leak which at this point only comes out of the bellhousing so i am pretty sure it's the rear main maybe a drop or 3 a week. although the front side of the oil has a shine too it and appears to possibly be leaking from the remote cooler/filter adapter to the block but even less than the other tiny leak. I added lucas oil stop leak back to the engine and it stopped the leak on the oil change prior to last. while i was down there I saw large amounts of grease that appeared to have flung off the inner driver side CV. Now i am under the impression that the random clunk i get it is from a failing CV. so there's that now.
so on my outstanding list of items that need to be addressed:
monitor CV - locate front end clunk
drill out rivets in driver side window regulator and replace with bolts - the driver window tries to roll down and won't when the panel has been getting direct sun and is hot to the touch. i am hopeful the motor is fine but the rivets have shifted adding stress to the motor. This was the cause and solution in both my dads 2000 sierra 2500 and my 01 sierra years back. it's that or at least with bolts it will be easier to replace the motor/regulator with parts from the scrap yard once it's bolted in either way.
i feel that i should do fluid changes on the diffs and t-case but looking for input on that
Also looking for input the trans shifts very firm from 1-2 not breaking tire loose but what I considered a "tow/haul" mode firm shift on my 2001 sierra only when the engine is cold. it seems to lessen as it warms up. also when i have the windows down 1-2 and 2-3 i can hear what i could only describe as a very faint "clang" on those shifts. there are not an dash warnings so maybe i am just being hyper-sensitive. Should I change the trans fluid, filter, and internal shift actuators or just let it be? i honestly haven't even checked the trans fluid level yet. truck has 145k miles i am under the impression that the PO would have done fluid changes at the recommended intervals. previously since most items appear to be newer and OEM i assume the trans was serviced in the 75-100k window but i kind of fall into the don't change the 4l60e fluid unless you are rebuilding it school of thought.
still need to change the vacuum line from to the t-case its' in a very dry rotted stated but does not loose any vacuum pressure when tested so it's less urgent to me now.
the t-case vent line i still haven't reconnected as it seems like it will be a pain to drop the cross member to reach and reconnect it. once again it's probably fairly easy but this truck has my slightly pissed right now.
the list is shorter than ever but my frustration level is high currently so I am getting easily frustrated. It feels like everything i fix causes 2 more issues to pop up. I will say again as far as schedule maintenance was concerned the previous owner kept up on it very well it's all the stuff that most people won't fix unless it's broken that i have been working on. Also we were going to go on a road trip to So-Cal a few weeks back and i was thinking about taking the blazer as it is great for road tripping comfort wise but my GF was not confident we would make it 4 hours away. so we took my daily driver instead. To be fair to her i wasn't confident it would make it either and the water pump/radiator pretty much died about 50 miles after we got home from the trip. so we wouldn't have made it there most likely lol.
Last edited by cccfabioccc; 11-13-2016 at 09:16 PM.
#44
02-11-2017, 05:20 AM
Rebuilds gear box 140.00
Power steering pump 50.00
and many other things.
Good shop here in Vegas, he is doing mine in a few weeks.
#45
02-21-2017, 11:19 PM
good to know. my steering box seems to be ok, the rag joint needs to be replaced but it's not too bad now that i have literally replaced every steering component in the front end as well as every bushing. That and a new steering box is about $90 after you return the core on rockauto.
#46
04-03-2017, 10:06 PM
So people I bought a 2017 toyota tacoma and I am selling the blazer.... here is the ad
2002 Chevrolet Blazer LS automatic 4x4 built in late 2002 so it is a 2002.5 with a 411 ECM and a double din dash. The truck was purchased by me in 11/2015 and has only been used to go to the lake during the summer. The vehicle was originally bought in Central CA and lived its' entire life there until being purchased from auction by the dealer I purchased it from here in Las Vegas. It has no signs of rust. Currently sits with ~149,XXX miles since it was my lake tow vehicle I completed all maintenance on this vehicle + many upgrades:
New pads, rotors on all 4 corners and new parking brake shoes
new column shift boot cover
Lower intake manifold, valve cover, upper intake manifold, throttle body, and intake sensor gaskets all replaced
180* thermostat
New radiator and water pump
new fan clutch new battery
new radiator and heater hoses
Heater Core and engine flushed. coolant all replaced with green coolant rather than dexcool, as it is known to cause issues in these 4.3L motors
New front CV half shafts and front diff serviced
New upper control arms
new front shocks
new rear air shocks with air valve mounted through rear license plate.
new front sway bar bushings both ends and frame mount
new rear poly sway bar bushings
All new steering components - pitman, idler, inner and outer tie rods all replaced
lower control arm bushings all replaced
all new ball joints
2" rear shackle lift
2" torsion bar front lift with new ball joint relocate w/ reinforced upper control arm
New ACDelco fuel pump/sending unit
new fuel filter
New remote oil cooler lines both from the block and from the filter
Remote external transmission oil cooler
New ACDelco 4x4 transfer case switch (common failure point, causes the HVAC to stop working properly at floor vents)
new HVAC vacuum actuators
new Delco distributor cap and rotor
New driver window regulator and motor
New driver door pins and bushings
Had the steering aligned last month at firestone
Clear front markers with amber LED ( I hated the amber plastic) LED digital relay installed so there isn't any hyper flash
5000k 35w HID low beams
New Rear leaf spring bushings
It has a GMC Jimmy hood because i like the styling better and the original Blazer hood was heavily dented near the latch and had a paint issue. I have the original hood should you want it other wise it is going to be target practice for me.
Front windows tinted
dash has no cracks, has a dash cover and a new defrost vent
All interior lighting converted to LED but they are daylight LED color temp not the standard blue light LED
Interior in great shape no rips or tears. The driver floor mat has a hole in it but that is all.
non-smokers vehicle
I replaced all the items that are common points of failure on the Blazer therefore it should be many years before any items need to be replaced. I just drove this truck to and from LA to shake off the dust without any issue. It's a very well maintained the AC is ice cold, the 4x4 system works instantly. There is not a blazer for sale that has this level of maintenance completed on it via a dealer or private seller. For that reason the price is $3100, I have no need to sell it I just have multiple other vehicles now and would like to clear the space and since it is tax time I figure it could go on to be a nice toy/family hauler/tow vehicle/landscape/technician vehicle for someone else rather than just sitting in my driveway. The Blazer can do just about anything and that why I bought it in the first place.
2002 Chevrolet Blazer LS automatic 4x4 built in late 2002 so it is a 2002.5 with a 411 ECM and a double din dash. The truck was purchased by me in 11/2015 and has only been used to go to the lake during the summer. The vehicle was originally bought in Central CA and lived its' entire life there until being purchased from auction by the dealer I purchased it from here in Las Vegas. It has no signs of rust. Currently sits with ~149,XXX miles since it was my lake tow vehicle I completed all maintenance on this vehicle + many upgrades:
New pads, rotors on all 4 corners and new parking brake shoes
new column shift boot cover
Lower intake manifold, valve cover, upper intake manifold, throttle body, and intake sensor gaskets all replaced
180* thermostat
New radiator and water pump
new fan clutch new battery
new radiator and heater hoses
Heater Core and engine flushed. coolant all replaced with green coolant rather than dexcool, as it is known to cause issues in these 4.3L motors
New front CV half shafts and front diff serviced
New upper control arms
new front shocks
new rear air shocks with air valve mounted through rear license plate.
new front sway bar bushings both ends and frame mount
new rear poly sway bar bushings
All new steering components - pitman, idler, inner and outer tie rods all replaced
lower control arm bushings all replaced
all new ball joints
2" rear shackle lift
2" torsion bar front lift with new ball joint relocate w/ reinforced upper control arm
New ACDelco fuel pump/sending unit
new fuel filter
New remote oil cooler lines both from the block and from the filter
Remote external transmission oil cooler
New ACDelco 4x4 transfer case switch (common failure point, causes the HVAC to stop working properly at floor vents)
new HVAC vacuum actuators
new Delco distributor cap and rotor
New driver window regulator and motor
New driver door pins and bushings
Had the steering aligned last month at firestone
Clear front markers with amber LED ( I hated the amber plastic) LED digital relay installed so there isn't any hyper flash
5000k 35w HID low beams
New Rear leaf spring bushings
It has a GMC Jimmy hood because i like the styling better and the original Blazer hood was heavily dented near the latch and had a paint issue. I have the original hood should you want it other wise it is going to be target practice for me.
Front windows tinted
dash has no cracks, has a dash cover and a new defrost vent
All interior lighting converted to LED but they are daylight LED color temp not the standard blue light LED
Interior in great shape no rips or tears. The driver floor mat has a hole in it but that is all.
non-smokers vehicle
I replaced all the items that are common points of failure on the Blazer therefore it should be many years before any items need to be replaced. I just drove this truck to and from LA to shake off the dust without any issue. It's a very well maintained the AC is ice cold, the 4x4 system works instantly. There is not a blazer for sale that has this level of maintenance completed on it via a dealer or private seller. For that reason the price is $3100, I have no need to sell it I just have multiple other vehicles now and would like to clear the space and since it is tax time I figure it could go on to be a nice toy/family hauler/tow vehicle/landscape/technician vehicle for someone else rather than just sitting in my driveway. The Blazer can do just about anything and that why I bought it in the first place.
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