Is my blazer salvageable?
#1
Is my blazer salvageable?
Last weekend I got a great deal on a parts truck for my Jimmy. It's a 95 Chevy blazer with only 124k miles on it. But it was in an accident. He said he was out mudding and ran into a tree. The driver door and rear hatch is damaged beyond repair and will have to be replaced. That's no problem. Still runs and drives really well. But the hazards are on even though the button is off. Not a single light works up front and the dash lights are out. Is this some kind of safety feature from the crash or am I simply chasing down broken switches, shorts and fuses? Air bags are not deployed and fuel cut off has not been tripped. So my question is, would I be better off fixing the issues with it than reducing it to a parts truck? Any insight on this vehicle's situation is appreciated.
#2
when i got into a front end collision i ended up having a smashed wiring harness up front. so its possible you have a wire smashed into another wire. another thing you can try is just start pulling fuses and see if it goes off, and check fuses to see if any are blown that maybe why nothing up front is working
#4
That year has a very primitive computer, no such animal as crash detected. Most likely he f'ed up a wiring harness.
#6
Be advised that the '95 model had problems as it was the transition year for the new body style and fuel delivery system.
I had a '95....drove it to 243k miles, but spent alot of time/money on it.
With a beyond repair driver's door and rear hatch....tells me body has been really tweaked!!....parts only....and not many of them will fit later years.
I had a '95....drove it to 243k miles, but spent alot of time/money on it.
With a beyond repair driver's door and rear hatch....tells me body has been really tweaked!!....parts only....and not many of them will fit later years.
#7
That's good to know about the parts not always matching up. I bought it as a replacement engine, transmission, drive train replacement (if needed) for a 2000 Jimmy. I assumed most or all things would bolt up. I took some pictures so I could give you guys a better idea of the condition. The driver door was ripped off while open, so a hinge is broken off. Other than that, the rear is the worst of it.
#8
Here is what I would do, rewire everything yourself. If you want to drive it.
These rigs are a dime a dozen, for a reason. I knew that when I bought mine
Rewire Custom Jobby
Headlights = easy
Dashlight = easy
Blinkers = slightly harder
These rigs are a dime a dozen, for a reason. I knew that when I bought mine
Rewire Custom Jobby
Headlights = easy
Dashlight = easy
Blinkers = slightly harder
Last edited by matt4x4; 01-31-2015 at 02:29 AM.
#9
I'll have to tear into this more to really know for sure, too. I really do hate doing rewiring, but it's always worth it. I'm thinking I'll have to take a good look at the frame also. The nice thing is I'll be able to take some measurements and compare them with the Jimmy. Not everything will be the same, but I expect I'll be able to tell for sure if the frame and body are true or not. But sounds like if all that is good, a few hundred bucks in a used door and rear hatch and she should be road worthy.
#10
The door hinges are welded-on, not simple unbolt; same with rear hatch hinges.
Regarding the wiring problems: start with the steering column as it may have compressed and cut some wiring...probably looking at just replacing the entire column. Should be an easy salvage yard find.
Ahhh..nothing like a project!!!
Regarding the wiring problems: start with the steering column as it may have compressed and cut some wiring...probably looking at just replacing the entire column. Should be an easy salvage yard find.
Ahhh..nothing like a project!!!