Code finally came back. I guess it's possible because I think I bought a cheapo EGR Valve around $50. The Delphi version is $119 on Summit.

Does my truck have a EGR Valve Control Switch? If so where is that located?

When this code is on and I shift it into gear, it goes into gear very hard. I have to clear the code and then it will shift normally. I also notice at idle, it's kinda rough.

And last night the idle was extremely high and had to turn the truck off and restart.

Does that EGR Valve cause all those issues? I already installed a TPS and IDCV.

 

The EGR valve is operated by a stepper motor inside the housing, and it is controlled by the PCM. P1404 means the valve is not closing all the way. Probably has a piece of carbon holding the valve open. Clean it out with carb spray, but don't move the pintle valve. If you do, it can strip the gear on the motor, then it's time for a new EGR valve. After you clean it out, install a screened gasket. Most auto parts stores have them. If/when the valve sticks open, it can cause rough idle, stalling, hesitation on acceleration, harsh shift points etc, etc.


TPS=Throttle Position Sensor, IDCV??? IAC maybe, (Idle Air Controller)?


Was the service engine soon light on? What DTC's were in memory? Why were those sensors replaced?

 

Well the EGR is new, I removed the original gasket and installed a screen over a month ago, EGR was cleaned out as well.

The engine light comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off. Even with the engine light off, it idles high at times and shifts hard into gear, but after a few minutes of warming up, it shifts fine into gear.

The Code is always P1404 and P0410. P1404 is the EGR Valve and P0410 is the Secondary Air Injection Pump. P0410 hasn't come on in over 9 months, seems like only when its very cold that it appears.

Thoughts?

Yea I meant the IDC

 

Concerning the P1404, it sounds like you have a problem with the actual valve, but you can check the wiring for the position sensor first to make sure there are no shorts to voltage causing the PCM to see a false position. The position wire is the brown wire in position C on the EGR valve connector and position 10 in connector 2 on the PCM. Any further testing would require a bi-directional scan tool to command positions while you monitor the position sensor signal by back probing the connection at the EGR valve.

 

While changing the brakes today I decided to toss on a new EGR valve. The tech at the desk had a new Bosch Scanner that can scan for issues even if there are no SES lights on. He showed me some items that were stored in the memory of my truck and the EGR as well came up as confirmed faulty. I replaced it, cleared the code and I can already tell a big difference in the idle as it doesn't rev high any more, doesn't slam into gear and it idles smooth instead of up and down. Hope this works this time around. Next is the air conditioning system and encoder motor.

 

So far no light has come up, which it usually does after I reset it. But one problem still remains, when I start it up and put in drive without warming up, it sorta jams into gear, but if I let it warm up, no problems. I checked the transmission fluid level and it's where its supposed to be at, other than that no other problems. Any ideas?

 

Has the throttle stop screw on the throttle body been messed with? It is adjusted at the factory during assembly, and there are NO instructions published for adjustments. There is a way to get it close, but it requires a scanner that can command the IAC motor.


Scanners are amazing. Depending on its capabilities, they can access data streams & files that will make your head spin. One thing they all have in common... they never tell you a part is bad. It's up to the tech to diagnose it and make that determination

 

Nope, everything is stock. When I started it yesterday and let it run because it was about 9 degrees out, it kept reving higher and higher, when I turned it off the truck just sorta died abruptly and then I turned it right back on and it was normal idle.

 

Yesterday I decided to go ahead and guy a new TPS. I started removing some items and then I noticed the throttle cable C clips were not connected to the bracket. One was broke and was ok, I clipped the one in and used 2 zip ties in an X fashion to hold the other down till I can get a replacement. Not sure if that was the problem but could be, I left it at that and waited for the morning. Truck started up and didn't idle high, was back to normal. Yesterday on my way to the auto store I had to turn the truck off 3 times for it to idle correctly before I could put it in gear. I think this happened when the tech replaced the spider assembly about a month ago. Just to be sure I will wait a few days before returning the TPS but I "think" its fixed

 

Installed the new TPS, when I took the old one off, it came off in 3 pieces...the main housing unit, the small piece in the middle with a copper contact and a silver round piece. Installed the new one and so far so go. It started with the high revs again yesterday so I decided to do it today.