P1404 - Replaced EGR...
#21
Fuel pump module connectors have been updated:
The new style connector must be soldered onto the vehicle harness, don't use crimp connectors. In the fuel pump module connector, the black wire and the orange with black stripe wire, both go to a ground splice pack just ahead of the rear bumper. From the splice pack, one wire goes to chassis ground at the driver side rear corner of the frame. Switching the ground wires in the module connector does nothing but waste time, they both go directly to chassis ground.
The new style connector must be soldered onto the vehicle harness, don't use crimp connectors. In the fuel pump module connector, the black wire and the orange with black stripe wire, both go to a ground splice pack just ahead of the rear bumper. From the splice pack, one wire goes to chassis ground at the driver side rear corner of the frame. Switching the ground wires in the module connector does nothing but waste time, they both go directly to chassis ground.
#22
ok guys i need help..i have tried changing the black wires and i still get egr code pop up...i actually went a whole day yesterday without it coming on but today 5 minutes into my drive it popped up again...any help would be appreciated.
#23
The ECM does not constantly run a check on the EGR. That is why it does not come up on a regular basis. That's why you can't clear a code and then go immediately and get an emissions check. Is your gas guage working correctly? This would be an indication of whether you currently have it wired correctly or you just added another problem. The thought process here is that if you have the 5vdc grounded (or wired to the fuel pump) that is supposed to read your fuel level, then that same common 5vdc supply circuit that reads the EGR system reads it as a low level (wrong reading) and sets the 1404 code (in it's sweet time) So if your gas guage doesn't read right, then it's wired wrong.Does this help?
#24
it does help...my gas gauge is NOT reading correctly...it reads lower than what is actually in my tank...it will read empty and i go to fill it up and can only put 12ish gallons in it...so what do you suggest?thx for your help
#25
Ok,you probably still have it wired incorrectly somehow. It's been awhile since I did this and it was my niece's blazer but here goes. As I recall, at the gas tank harness on the factory side you have two wires that are slightly thicker than the other two, these are the pump + and -. The smaller wires are for the fuel sending unit. I'm almost certain that the pumps ground was solid black. To tell which wires on the pump side are correct you're going to need a ohmmeter. What you want to check for on the harness coming out of the pump is for the two wires that read between 0 and 90 ohms. These will be the wires for the sending unit. Wire those to the smaller wires on the factory harness. The sending unit uses resistance so crossing those wires shouldn't matter. The biggest problem here is that your high current pump is grounded through your ECM, so fix this ASAP! Another check that I would want to do while you're at the wiring is: with the small wires disconnected, ignition on, harness side, you should see 5vdc on one of the wires. That's your source power for the sending unit and the same power for the EGR circuit. If it's not there then this mixup could've damaged the ECM. I'd just check it. You're probably ok because you do have a gas level reading. But fix it now! Let me know.
#26
Cap. Hook....I've replaced that dumb cheap Airtex twice now so I don't wanna drain/drop the tank to check the harness..my question is...if the pix you show of the new connector is the same as mine and the two o/s wires are the pump and the inner are the fuel sending unit, what is the other connection next to the main one.?
#27
The grey and black wires are for the fuel pump motor. The orange and purple wires are for the fuel level sending unit. The other connector is for the fuel tank pressure sensor. It has 3 wires and the PCM uses data from it for checking the EVAP system for leaks.
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