Just looked at it again and figured it out. If the oil cooler were to get plugged for some reason this by pass would open and supply the engine with oil. So if you just blocked off the oil cooler lines the engine would still get oil. But don't block it off as it is so easy to remove the filter/cooling line adapter and screw the filter direct to the block.

 

You quoted yourself lol use EDIT, anyway...
Personally I wouldn't mess with oil cooling, it IS afterall the lifeblood of an engine.
Seems like you're posting for chits n giggles, for ideas but not really taking them to heart... have at er & gl

 

Gee---sorry to have bothered you and wasted your time.
But have a nice day any way.

 

[quote=neo71665;487978]My 2.8 in my blazer had over a million miles when it died, cause was the pickup tube in the pump falling out. They didn't have the oil cooler. I've never seen a factory s-series with a proper working rad have any heating issues, 4, 6, or 8 cyls.

I did an engine swap a couple years ago on my 96 Silverado 1500 4x4. The original engine had the oil cooler. I did not reinstall the lines on the new engine as I knew I wouldnt be using the truck for any towing or heavy hauling. I felt OK doing this more so after seeing that the oil cooler is listed as an option in the 96 sales brochure.

I dont know about the newer S10 Blazers but in the sales brochure for the 93 Blazer the oil cooler is also listed as an option. My 93 currently is in need of an engine transplant (bought it this way) because of a bad rod (lack of lubrication issue?). A friend of mine that has years of engine rebuilding and replacement experience explained to me how having the filter located remotely in the engine compartment was not a good idea in regards to lubrication when doing an oil change if the person doing the job wasnt aware the filter should be filled with oil before installing. It takes a while for the fresh oil to make its way through the lines, filter, cooler and back to the engine to do its job. Not good from a lubrication standpoint and IMO why the rod bearing went out in mine. Its a low mileage vehicle and was never abused.

 

I fill up all oil filters first. One that's vert you can fill all the way up if you can get it on without spilling it. The horizonal ones you can only fill about half way. Most all mechanics I know does this no matter the make or engine size.


As I said the trans cooling system is grossly undersized on s-series. The chances of burning the engine up due to oil is far far less than the chance of the trans burning up. Next on my worry list would be the weak rearend and subpar gov-bomb s-series got. Engine oil is lowest on the list since if the engine starts to heat up that much it will show on the temp gauge in the cluster. The real problems have no idiot lights or gauges in a factory setup.

 

you can buy that threaded piece at the dealership.... i cant find the part number right now. i know i posted it on this other site but that site is down right now. but it was like 7 bucks

 

Unless something happens to the old one it was easy to remove it from the aluminum adapter and screw it onto the block.

 

i dont know why but i was unable to do this. i asked about this too when i was building my truck (but that was 3-4 years ago) and i remember trying to get it out and it was stuck or didnt come out,i forgot. but yeah had to buy the one at the dealership.

i got a 93 s10 4x4 4.3 had the oil relocation thing that went to the driverside fender

 

Some of the adaptors are threaded and come out, some are press fit and don't.


Last time I heard I think the dealers raised the price on it to the mid teens. Everybody removing the cooler junk ordering them and gm seen a way to make some more money.

 

Glad I found this post!
I have been lerking for a few years and this site and it has been a life (ie truck and money) saver. Both college kids have blazers and I am keeping them alive.
Went out today to do a quick oil cooler line replacement on a 1996 S10 Blazer, 150,000.
I broke the bolt that holds the cooler lines to the remote filter. I cannot get the fitting off the filter bracket. Is the fitting threaded all the way through or is it just stuck? Even after i get it off I will still need to get the bolt out. Is the cooler line side that much more diffcult to remove vs. the engine side.
I have already done the lines to the motor so removing the remote filter and installing direct to the motor would keep my driveway clean.

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the other help in the past - fuel pressure reg, upper intake gasket, EVAP code, etc....