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  #1  
Old 07-10-2012, 12:36 PM
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Unhappy Problem with fuel pump starting on a 95 blazer

My friend and I have been trying to figure out what has been going on with the fuel pump on my 1995 chevrolet blazer with a vortec... I just learn as things go wrong on my vehicle, so I am rather ignorant as far as vehicle repairs go aside from what I research and learn from the people trying to help me.. can't afford a mechanic so we are trying to figure out what's going..

At first I was hoping that was a completely clogged filter so we went to advance auto parts and bought it and put it aside.. before trying it out he went ahead and disconnected the fuel filter and tried to get gas flowing in a pan from the line to see if it was indeed the filter or the pump and the result thus led me to go ahead and return the filter and buy a pump and strainer.... we replaced it and he made sure the grounds and wires were properly in place and he was careful not to damage anything else.. however when he tried to get it started the fuel pump is still not kicking on..

He tried testing out the relays, the fuses.. whatever he could test out without taking anything apart..

I've done a bit of research however what I find varies or I'm not sure because it's not always the same type of vehicle and whatnot. I was wondering if there were some way to test out other possibilities at home to figure out if it is an electrical problem or something else and if there is possibly something we may have missed. My biggest concern is the spider injector is bad... would the fuel pump still turn on if that was bad?

My family and I have been without a vehicle for a month and we live in a country like area and it's becoming difficult getting rides to and from work.. any help and advice is appreciated..
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:22 PM
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We were working on it for a little bit today before we went to work. He tested out a couple things and deducted there is nothing wrong with the spider injector. He did mess with around with the relays in the glove box and tried to switch the one for the fuel with the one for the horn since they were both the same. It didn't have any effect when he did that however when he pushed up into the relay with a tool we did end up hearing the fuel pump turn on rather loudly.. Could the box itself just need replaced or is it a possibility of something going on with the wiring? Is it something to be concerned with the pump being louder than it usually is or was it just getting too much juice by him overriding it like that?

Another fact is that we tried to fire it up while he was pushing into and tried to pump gas and it still wouldn't come on. Just continued to turn with no effect.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:15 AM
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if u want to no if ur fuel pump is working correctly and ur getn fuel to ur engine, there is a valve on the back of ur engine (closest to the firewall) and in the center called the shrader valve. It looks like it is just hangin out cause it isnt connected to ne thing even though it is in a group with other wires and what not....have someone turn the key to the on position (not all the way over as if to try and start it but enuf to where u would b able to hear the fuel pump kick on) while they are turning the key on and then off open up that valve and if the fuel pump is working and getn fuel to the engine then when the fuel pump kicks on u will have fuel coming out of that valve....if u dont have very much coming out or none at all then ur fuel pump is prob shot...And even if u can hear ur fuel pump kick on, that doesnt mean it isnt ur prob as there could b a component inside the pump itself that isnt working properly. If ur having symtoms of a junked/junky fuel pump then sounds like ur fuel pump needs replaced..and they arent too expensive cause i got mine and everything i needed for under $100 at autozone for my 95 blazer. Good luck and hope this helps ya if even for knowledge purposes
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:41 AM
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We did replace the fuel pump already. There is something else causing it to not receive power it seems for it to kick on.
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2012, 08:57 AM
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This sounds familiar. Have you tried to use the fuel pump test lead? It should be in the drivers side engine area by the brake booster. It should be an unconnected red wire. You connect it to 12 volts and you should hear the pump kick on. If it does, your not getting power to the pump for some reason.

When mine did this it turned out the crankshaft sensor harness melted on the manifold and that caused the computer to shut down (or not run) the fuel pump. I'd check your fuses to see if any are blown, and if the ECM A (or 1 I can't remember which) is blown you will want to check all around your manifolds for melted wires.
This probably won't be your issue, but I figured I would bring the possibility to your attention.
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  #6  
Old 07-13-2012, 09:32 AM
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Check that test port valve, if there's fuel up-there then you need to look elsewhere. When the pump primes it's only for a few seconds, you will not hear it running all the time with the motor not running. I don't know how you tested the spider with no working fuel pump. Check for wet spark plugs and spark. Even if you you do have some spark could be cap and rotor. Next time put the new fuel filter in anyway.
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:38 AM
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After reading Spittybays post I am SO FREAKIN PROUD OF MYSELF ROFL I not only knew how to check fuel getn to the engine but I even knew the NAME OF THE VALVE WOO HOO My blazer and all the peeps on this forum has taught me more in the last yr than I have ever learned and so its nice that I was able to try and help someone and actually KNEW what I was talkin about LMAO
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:00 AM
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I am losing faith in my co-worker who claims he knows about vehicles. Found out he has people convinced that I am going to sell him my vehicle for 500 dollars on payments so I am wondering if he could have had my vehicle fixed all along... some of the methods he did I was questioning so I'll just post them on here to see if he was making a fool of me.

Spider injector testing was simply him taking off the top covering of the vortec and removing a circular piece off the top of it (sorry for the lack of proper names, but as I said before I am pretty much ignorant when it comes to this stuff so please bare with me). He then had me try to crank it and it backfired. He said due to it backfiring that the spider injector was working fine. I found this kind of odd. Was I correct in my questioning of this method?

When he tested the relays under the fuse box one of the things he did was rig a metal piece off another broken piece of my vehicle (he claimed it was for my non-functioning dome light, but I am not for sure). I couldn't see exactly what he was doing but I believe he basically shoved that piece into the socket with the relay and pushed it in by jabbing a screw driver up against it. When I asked him what exactly he was trying to do he would not provide me with an answer. That's when he turned the key and you could hear the fuel pump noisily going.

He is claiming that he believes there is a short in the wiring and wants to mess with it.. I have not allowed him to work on it since because I don't want him messing with that because I'm pretty sure he is just going to try to figure out a way to rig that and I quite frankly don't want to end up being toasted in a blazing blazer..

The one relay thing did make me wonder if the relay box itself may be bad. The horn relay I believe is in the same area and it seems to work fine. He claims that they run off the same relay however when he switched it it wouldn't work.. would his assumption that it would be accurate? Or is it a possibility that all I may need is a completely new relay and for some reason when switching from the horn relay it wouldn't work for some other reason? If the box was bad would the horn relay still work?

A suggestion another co-worker gave me was putting solder on the end of the tips of the relay for a temporary fix.. is that a safe method?

Please excuse my ignorance in the matter of vehicles and the high likely hood that I am making my self sound a fool. I have been without a vehicle for a month without the funds for a mechanic and I am getting frustrated of these so-called self taught "mechanics" claiming they can get it running. My wife has not left our house for a month and needs medical attention. So please give me some input. I'm also having trouble getting to work because it's hard to get a ride where I'm at and it's too far to walk, it's a miracle I am still employed..

Oh, and looking back at the replies, I don't believe I or anybody I know has whatever is needed for the test. I'm not sure what to connect that wire in.. but I've always wondered what that is and where it was suppose to go to, and now I know!

And Melrock, I did replace the fuel pump and it is still not delivering fuel.. it's flat out not turning on like it's suppose to. I'm trying to figure out why that is.
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:11 AM
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2005 CHEVROLET BLAZER Fuel Pump Relay
Wolf, your kind of a tough read. All I can really get is you replaced the the fuel pump and your friend got it to prime by jumping the relay. Without going into if your buddy is trying to jack your ride his test methods seem a bit F't up. The link above should give you an idea that the relays are cheap. No jumping, soldering or anything.
I know what it's like to be broke and throwing parts at stuff is expensive also frustrating.
You have got to understand that you may not hear that pump all the time.
It's a must that you follow melrock and find that test port and push that shrader valve core to see if theres fuel. It will be on one of the two fuel lines entering the plenum. It looks like a .38 hollow point slug with threads on it. In the center is a valve that is exactly like an air fill on a tire, get a pen or something and push on it. My guess is gas will come out.
If there was no fuel you would not have gotten that kickback when you looked at the spider.

Now get some tape that you can write on. You are going to "index" the wires from distributer. This means put tape on each wire near the cap and write a # from 1-7 around the cap, clockwise or counter it makes no diffrence. It's just so you don't screw up putting them back on. Take the the wires and cap off. I think it's a # 20 torex but can't say for shure. Clean the pins on the cap and the rotor with some steelwool, emery, nail-file anything. Slap it back together and see if it fires or at least want's to start.

Last edited by spittybays; 07-17-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2012, 03:34 AM
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also even if u can get a small amount of fuel from the shrader valve that still doesnt mean there isnt an issue related to the fuel pump. my husband has a 2001 blazr and after replacing the fuel pump, the wiring on top the tank is having problems so go thru and double check all ur wiring connections to make sure they r good and that the ground wire is on properly. Sadly that will mean u must drop the tank again, but not all the way...just enuf to where u can reach the wires. my husband tested the old fuel pump after learning of the wire issue and of course, it works when power is hookd up to it directly so may not have been the pump after all.
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:34 AM
 
 
 
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