I've read the threads about removing the remote oil filter/cooler lines from S10's and installing the filter on the block. In my case, the oil lines running to the radiator are a bit wet. From what I've read, on a 4WD there is not enough clearace to put a small filter on and do the nipple swap.

Assuming the oil lines from the block don't leak, why can't I just 'loop' off the oil filter mount and return it back with a simple loop. The lines look like aluminum, so if someone could solder/braze whatever and make a loop. It would eliminate the lines to the radiator, but would return oil flow.

What do you think ?

 

There is enough room to install the nipple & a smaller filter. Have done it to all 3 s10's i own. Just use a dodge neon filter, that's what i use on all of mine. Good Luck

 

Whats this talk about nipple swap? What nipple are you talking about.
I am seriously considering getting rid of this stupid remote oil filter business as I want to do some offroading on my rig. So if you could steer me in the right direction, link me up some forum posts on how to do it that would be great. Been trying here, I am useless doing searches in forums.

 

Not recommended to remove it, but if you must, here is a link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instru...er-removal.pdf

Strongly recommended using a fully synthetic motor oil, (Mobil1, etc) if you remove the cooler. Might as well replace the bypass valve in the block as long as you have the adapter off. $5 part.

 

Besides, you cant solder or braze aluminum.

 

There are many products available that can be used to 'braze' aluminum. Technically, brazing involves the use of dissimilar base and filler materials, but the term 'brazing' has been synonymous with low temperature joining of materials for a long, long time for many people. Pedants would require it to be called low temperature welding due to the use of the similar base and filler materials.


I have, on several occasions, successfully 'brazed' aluminum. The first time was almost 20 years ago to modify the leaky oil cooler lines on my grandfather's S10. We found some aluminum low pressure hydraulic fittings and modified them to fit onto the oil lines, then heated up the lines in an oven as high as it would go and with a brazing tip on our oxy/acetylene torch to bring the area up to proper temperature to melt the rod. Pre-heating the entire piece is important when working with aluminum in this manner as aluminum is a VERY good conductor of heat and if the work-piece is too large, you will not be able to get the work area to a good constant temperature to properly flow the filler metal and make a good, sealed, and lasting connection.