I'm going to be replacing the intake manifold gasket on my 2001 Blazer and have a few questions. I've purchase the MS98002T gasket kit that I've seen recommended here

1) What torque specs should I go by? I've seen several figures:
The pamphlet with the gasket kit say 50 in/100 in/11 ft.

This post says 22 in/106 in/26 ft:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/showth...e+cover+torque

This walkthrough says 89 in/106 in/11 ft:
http://d-tips.com/General/Articles/a...akearticle.art

I realize these are different model years, but I thought they were basically the same engine. And if there is difference from year to year, isn't this kit designed to work with a variety of years? If so, how can it have one set of torque specs.

2) Neither of the above links say anything about removing the valve covers. However, the kit says they need to be removed to change the manifold gasket. Any idea which is correct? If they do need to be removed, what do the valve covers get torqued too (or is that not important)?

3) Any other part that needs a specific torque?

4) Since I'll need to be doing a tuneup soon anyway, are there any other things I should do while it is off? Ex: the FelPro gasket kit includes a fuel filter gasket. Is that something I'll already be taking off in the process (not sure where the filter is on this vehicle)? Neither of the above links mentions it. Is it just included in this kit for the heck of it? My brother will be coming in from out of town and helping me do this while he's here, so I need to have everything ready ahead of time.

Thanks

 

11ftlbs is the correct final torque. How you get there really does not matter as much so long as you take 3 passes. The d-tips article has the book values.

You do not need to remove the valve covers. If your kit comes with new valve cover gaskets and you want to use them, then you will have to remove them. Valve cover retaining bolt torque is 106 in-lbs.

Fuel filter gasket???

Make sure you use the Felpro kit with the metal framed LIM (lower intake manifold) gaskets.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure why the kit instruction say removing the valve covers is necessary. Since you and those articles agree it is not.

That what the kit says. The label on the gasket kit box says it includes:
2 - intake manifold
1 - intake manifold upper
2 - valve cover
6 - valve cover grommet
1 - distributor mounting
1 -throttle body mounting
1 - fuel meter body
1 - fuel filter
1 - RTV black tube
1 - O-ring
1 - O-ring
1 - O-ring

 

It is actually quite simple. The kit includes the valve cover gaskets. If you were to replace everything that comes in the kit, you will have to pull the covers. But I said that already.

Looks like your kit came with a new fuel filter...

What is the actual part number for this kit?

 

No fuel filter. Everything on that list is gasket or o-ring (except for the RTV). The kit is the standard FelPro MS98002T that many people here recommended. Here's everything that was included:
http://info.rockauto.com/Fel-Pro/Det...98002T_TOP.jpg

 

Yep, that's the good one. And no it did not include a fuel filter, but you listed it... Maybe they are talking about the fuel line o-rings at the back of the intake.

 

I was just listing exactly what was printed on the label on the box (because you questioned the fuel filter gasket).


Anyway, I got this repair done last night. Thanks for your answers, and thanks to the guy who wrote the d-tips walkthrough. It went mostly as expected, the only little gotchas that weren't mentioned in the walkthrough were.

1) Had trouble removing the cruise control cable. It seemed like there was a horseshoe clip holding it on, but I couldn't seem to get the clip loose. I pried it up pretty far and it still didn't come lose. I was worried about snapping it off, so instead, I just unscrewed the whole cable, counting how many threads were sticking out before I started so that I could get it back to the proper adjustment.

2) The wiring harness that lays across the engine, which the instruction say to unplug and lay over to the passenger side. On my 2001 Blazer, it actually connects into the fuse block on the drivers side. That's not a big deal (remove 3 bolts to get to the bottom of the fuse block, remove 1 bolt from the bottom of the fuse block, and then wiggle the harness connector loose, then unclip one other wire so you could squeeze the large connector between the wires), but it wasn't mentioned in the walkthrough.


Other than that, everything was pretty much uneventful and went exactly as documented in the walkthrough.