Yeah, it's pretty amazing they decided to put it there. It took me a while to learn where they hid it also. You should be able to pull the front of the carpet down under the dash enough to see the wire there and it will have a little plastic connector to unhook.

 

I glanced under the carpet - but need to spend some time taking the kick-panel off so I don't mess up the carpeting...

On another note.. I *did* take off the EGR valve last night.. soaked it thoroughly with some Deep Creep (pressurized SeaFoam) to remove the carbon from it... Geez.. after putting it back on - the Blazer had a kind of "throaty" sound, and I can actually hear the valve in the EGR moving open & closed. I'm wondering if I've got a faulty EGR, yet it's not tripping any engine codes... I warmed up the Blazer last night and took it around the block... left it in gear, but came to a stop, and where it would normally shake the car like crazy.. this time it felt smooth. I'll take itout again tomorrow to see if it still is working right... Crossing my fingers!

 

I hope that fixes it for you. I worked in a shop thru the mid 90's and soon learned that GM products with a rough idle and occasional light were often a stuck EGR, they carbon up and won't seat closed leading to really rough idle, or may outright stick close and never open throwing a light for EGR. I believe you have the diaphragm type on a 95, with it idling you can stick your finger underneath and pull up the diaphragm a couple times and it will usually reseat closed and rough idle will go away immediately. The diaphragm valves seemed to need replacement every 3-4 years on many gm motors, especially the four cylinders. I think I paid around $40 for the last one I bought for myself and it lasted the rest of the life of the car. I haven't had much experience with the newer linear egr valves. If it appears it is EGR related and replacing or cleaning valve fixes it, I'd run your next couple tanks with Sea Foam or equiv. in the gas to clean up your intake valves, they're probably carboned frum running with valve stuck open all the time. Keeping clean oil would help too, your older engine would probably benefit from viscosity enhancer like STP or lucas to decarbon your rings and control blowby which leads to the carboned up egr in the first place.

 

Took about a 30 mile drive this morning while running errands around town.. I think it is, indeed the EGR valve.. Although it *did* get rough again at idle, when in gear, stopped at stop-signs.. but not nearly as rough as it was before... so at least I'm on the right track. Maybe I need to do a better de-carbonizing job...

Mine is the V6 Vortex engine - and does have the linear (according to the Haynes manual) EGR... I'll look around for a replacement.. although when I had to have it replaced waaay back at 50,000 miles, the Stealership charges me just under $400 for the job... I'm presuming they charged 2x RETAIL for the EGR, plus about 1 hour's labor... so probably sound about right...

Rex

 

Hey, I am having same problem...95 s10 blazer 4.3 vortec odbI computer

I just replaced my EGR valve. Not too tuff to do, getting to the bolts was hardest part. I think its the linear EGR set up. Where would that diaphragm be at if otherwise. Of course after you read my input hear you may say I should have gone to a shop. But, right now I've only spent retail cost for the part.

Anyway, the check engine light came back on. It returned a code 32. EGR valve. This was after spending 4 days of normal driving, but knowing it was going to happen sooner or later I got on the interstate and was up around 70 at one point (Speed Limit). Anyway, as I came back off of that speed and was exiting the interstate in a big loop (I say this so you understand I slowed down considerably) and the engine light came on. Yes it does still idle a little rough, however there hasn't been any dieseling as it did before...

Anybody have any suggestions of what may have occurred. I'm picturing the carbon build up being so intense from the previous valve not working for so long that this one possibly has a carbon pellet just clogged back up from excessive carbon burn off when I basically kicked-it-in on the interstate . Is that a valid thought, or could it be something else?

I won't be able to take this one back off until the weekend...

 

Oh, by the way...

Previously the engine code returned both a 32 EGR valve and a 45 rich or lean exhaust O2 sensor. That code isn't being returned this time. So I think the EGR valve is effecting that fix...once again, is that valid thinking? Or can I expect the 45 to show up soon?

 

In my past experience with egr problems your situation is when you could see it, hot engine dropping to idle and the light would come on if the valve's stuck open. If it won't open at all the light will appear at highway speed. The lean 02 you saw early also makes sense as egr related as you'll get a lean mix when the valve is stuck open when it should be closed leading to a lean mixture. When you removed the valve was the passageway underneath clogged up with carbon, and did you clean it up when you changed the valve. This could be tough to see as the passageway is in the intake as opposed to external in a stainless tube like other types of engines. If so it's hopefully clogged up or partially restricted just at the valve location and could be cleaned up improving the EGR flow so that the computer sees the desired effect in the exhaust flow when it commands it, thereby not getting the egr light. If you remove it again and clean the passage out suck out the dirt with maybe a shop vac so you don't send big chunks of carbon into the intake valves. I've seen these passageways on other types of engines filled completely solid with carbon from one end to the other, this was usually in engines that were blowing by a lot or were consistanly being run way beyond the service interval for clean oil.

 

OK,
I don't know the complete history of this vehicle, there were no service records. However engine looked to be in good shape overall for 200,000 miles but I am not a mechanic.

I took the EGR off again last night and it was definitely clogged back up. All I could do was spray some carb cleaner and work the valve back and forth. There was a lot of carbon build up already again.

Yes, I did inspect and spray carb cleaner as best I could the passage way from the engine into the valve, it didn't seem out of order...

Any ideas or thoughts on what I can do to clean the internal part of the engine (sprays, additives).

By the way, the computer came back on the first driving cycle and threw the code this time. I thought it would cycle at least three driving times... Yes, I did disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes while pulling the EGR valve...

 

If you have access to compressed air you need to blow right in that passage with a blow gun or you can even start the engine with the valve off and rev it up one time and blow any carbon out.

 

I removed the EGR and rev'd the engine. On rev, there is a fine black mist that emits from the open passageway where the egr goes. I had a rag in place to try and catch some of the bigger chunks. However none were detected. I only ran it for a short time and rev'd it maybe 10 times maximum. Should I have let it get up to a real hot tempature or anything? The engine light came on again this morning, but, actually turned back off before I got here to work. I haven't pulled the code yet for what it may have said. I still think it's idleing a little rough. I think I may go axchange this EGR for another new one, just because I can...

Could I have damaged the replacement EGR valve already? It's been clogged a couple of times through this, but it was not clogged last night when I took it off to blow out the passageway...

Should I be more patient about the Fuel additive and changing the spark plugs and wires to effect the amount of carbon buildup or the cleanup of the carbon already built up?

So far I've:
Replace Fuel pump
Replace Fuel filter
I don't think it really applies to this problem as I'm still receiving 60psi at the Schrader valve and only a few psi drop when cranked.

Concerning Service Engine Soon code 32 light I have:
- Changed Oil
- Replaced the EGR valve, then cleaned several times since replace, usually with carbon pellets obstructing it (not this last time though)
- Replaced PCV valve
- Sprayed Carb cleaner into intake while revving
- Added STP gas treatment to new tank of gas
- Replaced Spark Plugs and Wires
-