u might want to pull the upper plenum off and pull the injectors out but leave them plugged in to the fuel rail then turn the key on then turn it off and see if fuel leaks from the injectors. if that checks good then pull the dizzy and check it. there was a bulletin about the magnets braking and such are u close to cincinnati if u i can help u check it outare

 

We did pull out the injectors and left it plugged in to the fuel rail and there wasn't a drop of fuel that came out when we turned the key on. I am about 2 1/2-3 hours from Cincinnati. I personally don't know what the dizzy is but I'll tell my son because he probably does. I will tell you one thing I am getting very friendly with the auto part storeclerks as it seems like that is where I spend most of my time. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!

 

I had a problem very similar with my blazer not being able to hold pressure and turned out to be the fuel pulsator was torn where it connected to the pump.

 

I can't even find a fuel pulsator on any of the auto part store sites for this vehicle, Are you sure it has one?
We just replaced the fuel pump with an AC Delco about a week ago. Thanks for the suggestion DlJr82 we're still working at it.

Just a little update- Replaced the FPR a couple of days ago, It did raise the pressure to about 68 psi (when turned"on" but not started) but it woulddrop very fast, it would even drop faster andmuch lowerthan the FPR that we replaced which looked like the original. It did not leak fuel when reassembled but it just didn't seem like it really fit well. (It was an aftermarket part because that was all I could find in our little town) The base as they call it (I'll call it the stem) appeared to kiss off to soonto allow the regulator tobe insertedcompletely into the spider. As I said it did not leak fuel but the fuel pressure dropped like crazy.

I ordered a Delphi (OEM) fuel pressure regulator this morning and I received it late this afternoon so tomorrow we're going to install the factory part and hope for the best. The Delphi has an adjustment screw on them if needed and thecheap aftermarket one didn't. (I will betaking it backto the parts store tomorrow for my refund)

I will post the outcome when thisjob is done.

P.S. 1badblaze I've got the dizzy figured out( distributor)[sm=imsorry.gif] I'm a little slow

 

Here's where we are presently:

Replaced the fuel pressure regulator with the Delphi brand and took off the other new aftermarket part (which I returned for my refund, I didn't care if it had been on the vehicle or not.) When I went to return it I explained to them that it was like trying to fit into Cinderella's slipper when you're not Cinderella, it doen't matter how much you want it to fit well it just doesn't. I would highly recommend anyone who is in need of a FPR to pay the additional $20for a Delphi, It is DEFINATELY worth it!

Yesterday we replaced the ignition coil, not exactly sure why we did but I had read a few posts that leaned me that way. If nothing else it was one of the cheapest parts we have replaced to date as it was only $27.

So this iswhat we did today: Since it seemed to be running decent (NOT GREAT NOR DEPENDABLE) I had to take my son to work early this morning so I stopped by AutoZone on my way home to visit because I hadn't been there for 2 days and I know they missed me and my money ( not really ) but I did stop and was thinking about renting a code scanner but they told me if I just brought it up that they would run it for free and since I'm a dumb girl and don't have a clue what I'm doing anyway this is what I did. My husband followed me up just in case as it was about -2 degrees this morning and he didn't want me tobe stranded. The trip both wayswas about 10 miles.
It started up fine, drove it there shut it off , it was restarted 3 times while I was there, shut it off again went inside to talk about the codes and when I left it started just fine again. I was even so brave as to stop by and get some fuel on the way home and once again it started just fine, it did not stall, sputter or cough while I was driving it. (Usually if I go to the gas station I almost have toget it home Fred Flintstonestyle)By the way the codes came back TPS which was just replaced, and 1406 (EGR) but to get these codes he hooked it up to the one they usually loan out and he said it wasn't pulling any codes which puzzled him so he then brought out theCadillac of scanners and that is when he pulled these codes. He said everything else checked fine. NOW WHAT?

The funniest thing is I drove it for at least 40 miles spread over 5 short tripstoday and one of the trips I even drove it 70mph on the interstate and it did not die on me once,(RAN GREAT)it just started up and purred like a kitten and then I was going to take it one last little spin late this afternoon then deliver it to my son and I was only a block from my home when the "ABS and "BRAKE" lights came on along with the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON", after I saw all of these pop up on the dash it only ran for about75 yards before it died on me. I was taking a corner and coasted to the side of the road and it started right back up but I turned around and headed home. This is the first time it died on me in the last 2 days. I probably drove it 10-15 miles yesterday.
I have this theory that if I can start it up without the "SES" light coming on that it seems to run fine, but if it comes on it will run crappy but you can usually turn it off and restart it (once sometimes,maybe2 or 3 times)and if it runs smooth and the "SES light isn't on it doesn't cause any issues. I know it sounds crazy but it's true.
Could this have anything to do with the ECM,PCM,VCM? Or what ever you want to call it. The parts store clerk said that even though it coded for an EGR and TPS that it might run crappy but it shouldn't act like it does and stall. ANY thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated-THANKS! Sorry this is so long

 

I had a friend tell me it could possibly be the pick up coil for the reason it stalls. It is still doing it and we need to work on it some more. How difficult is it to replace the pick up coil? I didn't know if this was something wewould want to attempt ourselves or take it to a shop for this? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Just an update, we are still trying our best to remedy the problem that we are having. I am sure this does not make any sense but it seems like if my sons blazer starts right up and runs smooth, majority of the time it will continue to run the same way while he is driving it.
If he starts it up and it runs kinda rough and sputtersit will just continue to run that way unless you turn it off and restart it until it is running smooth. It would usually only take 2 or 3 times to get it to run smooth but now it is more like 5-6restarts before it will finallyrun on the right note.
As random as this is it simply doesn't make sense, we have good fuel pressure and for it to start sometimes and run so SMOOTH and the next time you start it there is 180 degree turn around. It really runs like two different vehicles.
The only thing that we haven't checked out that wasbrought to my attention on this forum is the distributor so we are going to tackle that later this week. 1badblaze wrote about a bulletin where magnets were breaking in the distributor so can anyone add anything to this for me so I have a clue as to what we're looking for?
If there is anothersolution that couldhelp us PLEASE POST, wecould really use some of the expertise of this forum. Thank you in advance.

 

Still working to resolve the problems on the 96 blazer. Here is what we have done to date:
1 garage diagnosed as needing a MAF sensor REPLACED
1 garage diagnosed as needing a TPS also REPLACED then we installed:
New battery
New starter
New fuel tank
New AC Delco fuel pump
New fuel filter
New Delphi fuel pressure regulator (have good fuel pressure at this point but still stalls on occasion) so we installed:
New platnium plugs and wires
New rotor
New thermostat
New ignition coil
Cleaned IAC (Idle Air Control)
Cleaned EGR
TestedICM (Ignition Control Module) even though it tested okay at advance auto later we
Replaced ICM
Replaced EGR and last thing we did was install new camshaft postion sensor(CMP /pick up coil) it seems like it is running better but will still stall on occasion, I need this to run all the time as I only have one son and I don't want him to get hit broadside in traffic should it decide to quit on him. We put the new CMP in yesterday but it will throw code PO 0340 which is camshaft postion(CMP) sensor circuit malfunction. Does anyone have any input on why it would be throwing this code whenpartwas replaced?
It went back together like a dream after reading the DIY post from swartikk about distributor installation and watching a video on the internet about it.
It still stalls but the weather seem to have nothing to do with it. Started right up when it was zero one morning and it been wet, dry, snowy and warm and itstill runs the same. What else could it possibly be that would cause this intermittent stalling? Sometimes it will run for 20 miles without an issue and other times it won't run for 20 yards. PLEASE,We're stumped,ANY IDEAS?

 

Does the fuel pressure hold steady after the pump shuts off now? If not, you still have an issue somewhere in the fuel system which is likely leaking fuel into the plenum, causing the hard start when warm and general driveability concerns.

And PLEASE do not repeat yourself over and over again. It detracts from what you are actually trying to communicate when you post.

What work have YOU yourself done and what work has been done by a mechanic?

 

Sorry I repeated so much, just trying to let others know we haven'tsolved the problem.
As far as the repairs that have been done- MAF and TSP done by two different mechanics. Took it to a third garage and they said they couldn't pick up codes but did say it needed a fuel tank as it had a small hole in top. At the time fuel pressure was lowand they wanted $750 for tank and fuel pump so my son and a friend did it after I bought the parts for $225. Oil change and air cleaner was doneby Walmart, Hubby did plugs and wires and helped our son with starter. Everything else has been completed by son and myself (I'm the helper) as I am currently laid off so I am home to help him when he has time to work on it betweencollege and work.
Called son who was on his way home from work told him I neeeded fuel psi readings. Just called back and this is what he said: 60psi with key "on " no start while pump is running, drops back to about 55psi then climbs back to 59psi and will maintain that for at least 10 minutes. THANKSfor the reply!!!!