The roughest pulley (turning it by hand; not that any appear to rotate out of spec. if you will) seems to be the A/C pulley. I believe it was a gates brand serp belt. I have heard good and bad opinions about the gator brand belts, but personally haven't tried one. Here's my thoughts (no offense to anyone): the oem belts aren't gators, therefore it shouldn't take a gator to make it stop squealing. I you have clean, true pulleys an oem belt should work fine. I welcome other opinions though. If I put a gator belt on it and it is a bearing going out, the belt may put excess stress on the pulley and bearing masking it , but causing it to go quicker and possibly locking it up. Possible, right?

I also understand the general opinion on belt dressing, of which I have mixed feelings. Belt dressing in my opinion can be good in that it helps the belt grip to pulleys in the chance they are oily and slick. A temporary fix mind you. Its bad if your pulleys seem are in good, clean working condition. Again, I welcome opinions.

Just my opinions said in a "no offense manner."

 

The only difference between a regular belt and a gatorback belt is the 'tread pattern' cut through the grooves on the belt. This allows the belt to wrap more smoothly around pulleys, especially smaller ones.

If the A/C pulley doesn't feel smooth, pulling it off to get a better feel for it. A dry bearing (sealed bearing that has lost its lubricant) can squeak at the early onset of failure as the *****/rollers start to slip instead of roll. Eventually, it will destroy itself and lock up as 'fog detailed. You don't want that to happen!

 

Hi 6lbsledge,
Just a suggestion.Take a spray bottle with water and spray it on the belt(stream,not mist).If the squeak goes away then it has to do something with the belt or the surface of the pulleys.It only take a small amount of water and the noise will stop for a few seconds or it won't.

I do this with a lot of customers who have squeaky belt/s.Some times one spray will do and will not get into the bearings. I also agree with the AC bearing suggestions. I'm doing one this week on a GMC 2500. Replacing bearing only because pulley and clutch are still good.

 

Ok. I tried the water trick and determined I would have to pull the AC Clutch (as suggested earlier) by hand. I just finished pulling it and the bearing worn, but not worn enough to change. Upon removal, a powdery grey/black substance (i assume dust and metal) was covering the coil, clutch plate and id of the pulley. Upon inspection, the clutch plate is well worn with the front side of the pulley (it looks like a bad rotor would if it were ground against bad pads because it has definite groves where they meet). When twisted against each other (by hand) its very rough and sounds like a grinder. Its seems to be starting to wear the rivets away that are on the clutch plate. Is this common or a sign to replace clutch ? Again, the AC works fine and the clutch engages. Thanks in advance.

 

?? Who says so? If there's any slop in the inner race Or any 'granularity' at all when you stick fingers in it and turn it, it's time to replace it.The clutch will keep working until it eats itself up.

You know how to do it now... go to the salvage yard, buy a used compressor, if they are top line pros' you'll get the best one they have.

Take the assy off that one, turn in the comp you just bought with the old clutch pulley bearing. I suggest if you find the comp for the blazer is expensive, cross check the clutch pulley bearing P/N for it and 1998 Lumina 3.1 compressors.
They will have a ton of those.

I just did.. at advance auto site. Bravada {Blazer} compressors are more expensive than Lumina but the pulley/bearing is the same part.
{New pulley/bearing is $185 {Advance #15-20038}}. Rebuilt / new compressors just 15- 55 dollars more.

Used compressor way cheap at that rate and it's just a little work for good insurance. If that bearing goes out on you it means new compressor and A/C service that goes with it. Believe me you dont want to open a perfectly good A/C system.
Hint: Take coil off before you put it {core } back togehter and keep it. They dont wear out but they do go bad, occasionally

Now that advice {and the research} cost you nothing, and you know what they say about free advice? If you dont heed it or think about following it because it's free.. then you deserve what you get out of it.

 

Sorry. I don't follow. The clutch itself is a replaceable part. Why would I replace a good compressor? Worn compressor bearing?

 

You said clutch is pretty worn. You said bearing is worn 'but not too worn'
I said if it looks/acts at ALL worn it is prone to fail at anytime.. it is not like an idler pulley bearing!

I said you can get a used Lumina compressor at junk yard cheap. It {meaning the clutch/pulley/bearing.. who GAF about the compressor!} will likely be good if they are a top rated yard. Guy at my yard says they always sell best first.
Check it at counter to see if it {meaning the clutch and pulley} doesnt look better than yours
I, of COURSE, expect you to double check my findings that the replacement bearing/pulley for the Blazer and Lumina compressors are the same part #!!!

Pull clutch and pulley from Lumina compressor, install on your Blazer compressor.
Got that?!!!!

Put stuff from your blazer compressor on Lumina compressor and return to get core charge back

did anyone else think that was too hard to follow.. I know I always put in too much info but that is so people can understand why I think that way.

I guess I'm wrong.

 

Well, the thing that caught me was the core charge. 'Round here, at salvage yards, we don't have a core charge. Only auto stores acknowledge that here. And all sales are final "no matter what." Been there done that. Besides, the salvage yards have slowly disappeared and the ones close (withing 60 miles) aren't reliable. Again, been there done that. I use salvage yards as much as I can and if I were near a "pull-a-part" that was worth spittin on, I would probably do that. However, being the resourceful person I normally am, I will check and that's a good tip on the Lumina. No offensive, but I usually try to correct one's ignorance politely and jump on their stupidity. I appreciate your help, I simply misread your post. Or rather misinterpreted it.

 

Does anyone have a video or some instructions how to replace the a/c bearing?? Any help would be great. Thanks Bernie11

 

Steps in clutch remove install:
AC compressor clutch replacement - YouTube
Dont pay too much attention, thats the steps but the install is a lie.. you need a hold tool in order to install the outer part.

I didnt even need to unbolt the compressor. Just remove upper fan shield in my 99. May want to remove fan if blades bother you.

You need two special sets of tools to remove and reinstall the clutch:

GM A/C Compressor Clutch & Pulley Bearing Saga
That guy rigged a hook to hold the outer while turning it in.


Bearing replace:
AC compressor clutch bearing replacement - YouTube

How many miles on it? What I found when I replaced mine was.. I forget about the second part of this video, and didnt use a support when I pressed new bearing in.
Didnt just deform it, Broke it. As they wear, the support web becomes thinner and weaker, Those 'spokes' at the outer part meeting the pulley are prone to crack and break. Found two other clutches with good bearings that were also broken at the outer edges.

In other words, just replace the clutch, because if they have enough miles that bearing is worn out, clutch probably is, too. And my brain fart may have been a good thing, wouldn't want those breaking at 3000 rpm.

I found replacement clutch assy at AZ for $90.. however, notice difference in diameter:



That means you need a half inch shorter belt. Should be listed in optional belt. Which, by a good stroke of brain fart luck, I already had because I didnt look close when I ordered it.