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TSB Number 010730002C - the transmission is stuck in third gear; no instrument gauges

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Old 03-30-2009, 09:32 AM
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Exclamation TSB Number 010730002C - the transmission is stuck in third gear; no instrument gauges

Hello all,

Ever since I had a small exhaust shop replace my steering wheel, Periodically the Gauges will all die, The transmission will operate in third gear only (No matter what is selected aside from Neutral and Reverse). This happens sometimes, and when this is happening the key will not turn all the way from the ACC to OFF position, thereby having to lock the doors with the key in ignition, not to mention - If you tug the key just a little, it will pull out of the socket in on position and you can start the car with your fingers.

Needless to say they replaced the tumbler when they installed this new steering wheel, it is a slightly different steering wheel then the one that came with my 1998 GMC Jimmy SLS Full Size, But, Nevertheless, I think the shop screwed up somewhere along the line.

I found the following TSB article that very accurately represents what is happening to me symptom wise, Since the shops only solution seems to be to Jump a wire from a fuse thinking its the fuse not getting power, Then ends up working, then you pull the wire off and it still works and then screws up again down the road - I'd like to provide them with something SOLID so they can fix what they screwed up instead of whining about warrantied labour or "various possibilities".

Can anyone get me more information on this TSB? Or symptom? I would like the full description for this TSB if at all possible.

Thank you so much, Blazer Forum.
-Nigel

PS: Because this started happening yesterday when I had to drive 50 Miles on the Highway, I drove about 50 Miles an Hour the entire way because I know driving fast in Third Gear is very hard on the transmission, as is taking off from a stop. But, Would I have actually damaged much if anything from driving in this gear? (I was easy on her!) Just want to know for peace of mind!


TSB Number:010730002C NHTSA Number:10004354 TSB Date:August 1, 2003 Date Added to Fileecember 3, 2003
Failing Component:
Power Train
Summary:
Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) is on; the transmission is stuck in third gear; and / or the instrument cluster is inoperative.
 

Last edited by cide; 03-30-2009 at 09:53 AM. Reason: Ask about Driving In Third Gear and Tranny Damage?
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:41 AM
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Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-002E

Date: September 23, 2005

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Verify and Repair Source of Voltage Loss In Transmission Solenoid Power Supply Circuit)

Models:
2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2005-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
2005-2006 Saab 9-7X

with 4L60-E, 4L65-E, 4L80-E or 4L85-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M33, MT1, MN8)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and add additional diagnostic information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.

^ The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E).

^ The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E).

^ The instrument cluster is inoperative.

Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.

Cause

The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.

Correction
Important: If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections. ANY REPAIRS DUE TO AFTERMARKET INSTALLATION OF ACCESSORIES IS A NON-WARRANTABLE ITEM.

1. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the circuit fuse in the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. Refer to the appropriate SI Document for the transmission solenoid power supply circuit information.

2. If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens.

3. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, test for continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch. If NO continuity is between the fuse and the ignition switch, repair the open in that circuit.

4. If you have continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch using the appropriate Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in SI. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage of the ignition switch.
Above is the latest version of that TSB. Earlier versions state circuit 1020. The schematic below shows this circuit:


I would first take a look at the electrical plug on the side of the transmission to make sure that the connection is on straight. Disconnect it and make sure that no pins are pulled or bent and that the connections are clean.

If everything looks fine down there and your testing at the fuse mentioned results in no voltage at the fuse, then the ignition switch is a likely culprit.
 
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:19 PM
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Okay,
So I checked the fuse 11 as you detailed below, With the fuse checking thing hooked up to ground and such, And I would get a light on everyone but Fuse 11 (which seems to be the problem here, and why my gauges were dead etc)

The diagram you provided me with, Which I very much appreciate, along with the TSB details which I also appreciate! (Thank you) have helped, however the solution at this time was a quick one.


He jumped the fuse power from Rear Windshield Washer to Fuse 11 and the moment it made contact everything on the dash started working and the key would release.

He says its still fused 10A and all its doing is taking power.

It seems like it works fine like this,
Im wondering why 11 is dead to begin with though - Everything on the tranny looked fine, Perahps its something in the electronic ignition switch?

If that is where the problem is - I dont understand how giving it power fixes the problem, Is there any problems with me running the thing with power jumped as it is to fix this problem?

Any input on that would be appreciated! thanks
 
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:09 PM
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If the fuse is not getting power from the switched ignition source side, then it is definitely a problem with the ignition switch. I do not see too much of a problem running it tapped off of the other fuse, but I do not think I would tempt fate by keeping it that way.
 
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Old 04-03-2009, 03:28 PM
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I do not want to tempt fate either. I notice once in awhile, having it powered this way causes they key to not want to release. You have to turn it to the "On" position then back out for it to release once every 10 tries, Say.

It seems to work, So, The Electronic ignition switch of mine is likely shot since you say Fuse 11 is not getting power from the switched ignition source side. How much does a new one of these run?

I find it weird that forcefully giving it power causes it to work.. Of all things.

I guess I will just use it this hotwired way until I can afford to get a new Switch in there.
 
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