hey guys..i was at advanced auto parts the other day and they have 2" lift blocks and u-bolts to lift the rear for only 30 bucks and coil spring boosters to lift the front 2" for like 10 bucks...What do you guys think? Would you suggest i try it or is it not even worth..i mean id love to only pay 40 bucks and get a 2" lift but what do you guys think about it?

if you have an s10 its gonna lower it 2 inches. the springs are under the axle.

no it has 2 functions u can either clip the springs together to lower it or spread them apart to lift it...its an s-10 blazer

what do you guys think would it be worth it ? AND would a 2" body lift even be very noticeable cuz i can get one for 200 bucks or should i save for a 500 suspension lift....or will the cheap lift i was talking about work fine?

The cheap way will never be the right way in my mind. The rear end is the easy part to lift/drop. The front end however is where most of the expense comes from. Cheap coil expanders are not the way to achieve a front end lift. This will reduce the effectiveness of the spring as well as stress the spring MUCH more than it was ever designed to. Now, if I can decypher your screen name, then you have a 2000 4x4 blazer. Your front end does not have coil springs. It has a torsion bar setup. This setup really needs to be engineered for a lift - ie. you should buy a kit that is specifically made for the vehicle. As with any lift, the center of gravity will be raised by the same amount, making the vehicle even more top heavy and worse when turning. Because of this, you really don't want to cheap out, especially when your safety is taken into account.

My question would have to be what do you want out of your suspension?

ORIGINAL: FourX4 00

no it has 2 functions u can either clip the springs together to lower it or spread them apart to lift it...its an s-10 blazer

i was talking about the rear. if you put the blocks between the spring pack and axle, you'll go down 2 inches. to lift the rear your choices are springs or axle flip kit(flips the springs on top of the axle to lift it the thickness of the axle and spring pack). neither are cheap. and like swart said, you have torsion bars out front. the "cheapest" way to go would be a body lift. but in my opinion they look like crap cause the frame will be hanging down so low. so i say spend the extra money and do it right. you'll be happy you did.

hey guys your advice is REALLY helping me i just have one more question....what i really want is just for my blazer to look a little "beefier" kinda like a zr2....if i get a 2" body lift will my blazer look that much bigger or would it look a lot better with a 2" suspension lift...i only want to go 2" and if a 2" body lift will be noticeable id be fine wiht that i was jsut wondering cuz someone told me if you put a 2" body lift it will still look pretty stock and you cant really tell u have one

Just as an asside, when I bought my Bravada, the ride height in the back was sagging. It was bad enough that you could feel it hit the bump stops with just me in the car (and I don't weight that much). I put on a set of Monroe Sensa-Trak Load Assist shocks that add 250lb of spring rate to the rear end and that lifted it atleast 1.5 inches in the rear. I think that in my case, the spring were starting to sag (get weaker). Once these shocks wear out, I'm going to get a set of springs made up for the rear that add in the 250lbs right in the spring pack. There is a company near me that will make up springs for anything at around $100 per spring pack. You can specify spring rate, lift/drop over stock, etc. They are great.

Back to your questions. The body lift would be the cheapest and easiest way to accomplish a 2" lift. A suspension lift will always look better than a body lift. For the mean-ness factor, I would have to say that a suspension lift would look much meaner (is that a word...lol) than a body lift.

Now, for an even easier way to make your truck look mean... Go with the largest/widest tire that can fit and can be corrected for (computer wise). Tires can make or break a truck. Also, you could put on a brush guard up front to add to the effect. Both of these are easy to do and would be cheaper than a suspension lift (not cheaper than a body lift if you do the work yourself).

I would have to agree.
In stock form you could run 30" mud tires on the stock rims and not rub anywhere. Add a grill gaurd and your truck will look very similar to mine. Except I run BFG All-Terrains, I drive at least 80 miles per day. The BFG all-terrians do amazingly well on and off-road.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/137468.jpg
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr3/117433.jpg

With a 2" lift you can run 31" tires.

To get the tires to stick out some, change the wheel backspacing. When you buy your wheels get 15X8" with a 4" backspacing and neutral offset. They will stick out some and give it that wider stance, similar to a ZR2. Do the 2" body lift and run 31/10.5R15 mud tires on the 15x8" rims. I think you'll be happy with the look and extremely surprised at how well she does off-road. I prefer either BFG or Goodyear mud tires on a DD, decent longevity with minimal road noise compared to other mud tires, and good performance both on and off-road. If the gap between the frame and body bothers you, you could buy the gap kit from Performance Accessories for like $70, or go to your nearest farm supply store and buy agricultural belt. It comes in 4" wide and 10" wide by as many feet long as you want. At least that is the way it is at my farm supply store. Cost is $1.80 per foot for the 4" wide stuff, and $4.50 for the 10" stuff. I think that will give you the look your looking for at minimum cost.

One other thing.
You could crank your torsion bars up about 1" to 1 1/2" max., and get some 2" shackles for the rear springs. That will give you some lift. Realize that any time you crank your torsion bars you are stiffening up the ride and reducing the longevity of the suspension, steering components up front.

actually, by adjusting the torsion bars, you are not increasing the spring rate on them at all. The ride height will go up, and you may possibly wear the balljoints even more (due to the greater angle on the control arms), but the ride should not suffer by adjusting on the torsion bars. I didn't even think about changing the shackles in the rear. I wouldn't tighten the torsion bars past 1-1/2" beyond stock (which would be about 1/4" to 3/8" worth of adjustment). You would have to make sure that there would be no interference with any of the steering/suspension/brake components upfront with this method. Make sure that all brake lines keep slack in them when the wheels are turned at full suspension droop. Also, you may have to get the camber/camber & toe-in adjusted afterwords. On the rear end, just make sure that all of the brake cables & hoses are slack at full droop with the new shackles on. Not that you will be throwing it off jumps with the new suspension, but you don't want any issues especially when you are talking about the brakes and/or steering.

By moving the tires out more (messing with the backspacing), you will get a better/meaner stance of the vehicle, but you will also be putting increased stress on the front wheel bearings.

Just things to be aware of.

Hanr3, what size (xxx-xxRxx - fill in the 'x's) tires are you running on your blazer? I want to get rid of the running boards on my Bravada and put on new larger rubber, but stick with the stock rims. Did you have to recalibrate the speedo? If so, how did you accomplish that?

thanks guys you are really helping me but my REAL question is how noticable is a 2" boy lift actually going to be? if people see me driving are the even gonan notice its lifted 2" and will 31'2 fit fine with a 2" body lift or is that jsut suspension

I myself have owned many ah S-10 blazer in my day. I am always so P.O.ed at GM for coming up with this damned mess to begin with. Sucks. But hey over the years i've learned to live with the facts at hand and that is there are NO Cheap Lifts for S-10's. Yes you can Crank the sh@& out of your torsion bars as do i? And yes you can either flip the axel under the spring packs and buy new spring perches to weld ontop the axel housing? Or just go with the Good old Spring Shackle Hangle gaining up to 4" of lift in your rear end. At best to lift your front end up to even close to 4"? Go to your bank and beg for a personal loan for around the tune of between $2,279.00 to $4,000.00 just depends on how much lift you really want and who is selling it to you? Oh yeah almost forgot???? If your not qualified enough to do the 2,000.00 plus dollar install yourself? Better ask the bank for another Cool $2,000.00 for labor and minor fabricating. Sucks! I hate it. I have even asked and damn near begged folks and car dealers alike to please trade me there S-10 lift for my stock lift?? They never go for it. Hell i've even explained i'd do the labor for the lift kit and even buy brand new hardware to place my stock components inplace. No go. Thanks for reading. Wish you all well in your journey.

$4000 for a lift??? i guess i would be upset too if i were being ripped off like that....

You will notice the body lift and 31s, but if you want big, you are going to pay big. If lifts were cheap then everyone would have them.

hey can some one help me out am trying to put 33' on my s10 blazer and am thinkin about get a 3' body lift but do no know if that would work plus i do not know it u can tell of i put a 3' body lift on can someone plz help me out

so 33' would not be a good deal

so they make a 4 ' body lift kit
and were is a good place to get it from

The year of your blazer will determine if you can get a 3 inch body lift or not. I've never seen a 4in body lift for a blazer to my knowledge. If you want to fit 33 inch tires, you're going to need more than just a body lift. I have 2 in body and 2 in suspension and had to do MAJOR trimming to fit 32in tires. You're probably going to need a 5in suspension lift in order to not cut half your truck off to fit the tires. If you are going to run 33s I would also suggest that you re gear your differentials as well.

I have a 6" lift and still had to trim my fenders to fit 33's.

I have roughly 9in of lift and my 33s rub at full compression. So no you cant do it with only a 3in bodylift. They dont make a 4in body lift either.

If you wanna run 33"s on an S-series then be prepared to install a 6" suspension lift... as well as a body lift and fender trimming if you actually go "off-road".

Hey ya'll, I'm not completely new to the 4x4 scene, but I have unfortunately been away from it for a while until now. I have recently traded for a 2000 4-door blazer. I have read a few comments about using shackles to add some lift to the rear and this confuses me. I tried this on my old Toyota truck, and it just allowed the spring to flatten out and added no lift. I am not trying to dispute this concept, I was just wondering what the difference is because if it actually works, I WILL do it just to catch the back end of my Blazer up with the t/b crank. Thanks in advance for the info. (P.S.- sorry about mentioning the "T" word earlier. It was the only 4x4 I had at the time!)

yeah it lifts it. it got rid my saggy rear end:icon_goofygrin: