Hello ALl,
Hope someone can help us. I have a 1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4wd, fuel pump and fuel filter were replaced. Tune up was done Oct. Battery volt meter does not read when trying to start. 3rd battery this year. I suspect it's not the alternator since the truck ran for a couple months before problems occured again. We suspected it was alarm cutting of battery power, removed alarm. It started a couple times after alarm removal, now it won't start at all when trying to jump start it. When we try to start, warning lights on dashboard do not come on although regular dashboard lights come on and door chime comes on. Please help, I miss my baby.

Kathy

Update:
We have narrowed it down to the brain.
We had a friend mechanic come over today and eliminated almost everything else. He ran a direct connection from the battery to the modular and it started. They looked and tested everything that runs between the battery and the modular. Hubby is going to replace the brain this week.


Kathy

ORIGINAL: 57butler

Update:
We have narrowed it down to the brain.
We had a friend mechanic come over today and eliminated almost everything else. He ran a direct connection from the battery to the modular and it started. They looked and tested everything that runs between the battery and the modular. Hubby is going to replace the brain this week.


Kathy


Ok, it wasn't the brain. It is something definately electrical.

Have you tested the fuseable links? Should be one within 12" from starter on the wire connected to the same bolt as teh big red batttery cable on the starter.

I am not positive of hte ignition wiring on the '97 so I will stop there. I'll dig out the chilton book and take a look at the wiring diagram tomorrow.
Bed time right now. Sorry my brain isn't functioning completely so I don't want to misslead you.

ORIGINAL: Hanr3

Have you tested the fuseable links? Should be one within 12" from starter on the wire connected to the same bolt as teh big red batttery cable on the starter.

I am not positive of hte ignition wiring on the '97 so I will stop there. I'll dig out the chilton book and take a look at the wiring diagram tomorrow.
Bed time right now. Sorry my brain isn't functioning completely so I don't want to misslead you.


Hubby did test the fusable link and he says it is good.
Half the fuses work and the other half does not. Hubby ran a wire from the good fuses to the bad and it starts with no problems. But we are not using the truck until we figure out what the problem is.
It is getting frustrating. I did subscribe to the chiltonDIY.com. It is not helping.

Half the fuses. As in, the fuses in the engine compartment work, and the fuses in the cab don't?

If not, which fuses work and which ones don't? Like hich things work and which don't?


I did look in the Chilton book, what a nightmare. Based on teh book, there are 3 fuseable link between teh battery and both fuse panels. One before the power junction box, one before engine fuse box, and one before cab fuse box. Looks like the power comes off the battery to the junction block, to engnine bay fuse box, and then to cab fuse box.

ORIGINAL: Hanr3

Half the fuses. As in, the fuses in the engine compartment work, and the fuses in the cab don't?

If not, which fuses work and which ones don't? Like hich things work and which don't?


I did look in the Chilton book, what a nightmare. Based on teh book, there are 3 fuseable link between teh battery and both fuse panels. One before the power junction box, one before engine fuse box, and one before cab fuse box. Looks like the power comes off the battery to the junction block, to engnine bay fuse box, and then to cab fuse box.




The cab compartment fuse box, right when you open the drivers side door. Half of the fuses in there work and the other half doesn't. Hubby isn't home right now, so I wouldn't be able to tell you which ones do and don't work. Although, you can tell when the truck will start when the warning lights on the dashboard come on when the key is turned in on position. When the warning lights do not come on when I turn the key on, the truck will not start. It's weird. I'll have hubby look at all 3 links if he didn't already. Thank you :-)


Kathy

Have you ruled out ignition switch?

ORIGINAL: Hanr3

Have you ruled out ignition switch?



Absolutely. He dtermined that there is spark (he did something to the spark plugs) even when the truck is in position not to start.

The security system will allow spark. It won't allow fuel. The security system kills the power to the fuel pump. A fualty ignition switch is interpreted by the computer as a incorrect key. To prevent the vehicle from being stolen with a incorrect key, the computer shuts off the power to the fuel pump. The truck still gets spark, but no fuel. No fuel and it won't run.

Yeah if the key has a lil microchip in it, then it could be faulty and not sending the correct signal to the computer.

A friend of mine has a Camaro and it was doing the same thing you're describing. We replaced the ignition switch, the key cylinder, the battery, the TPS, the fuel filter, and the clutch bypass switch (it's a 5 spd) before we narrowed it down to some $3 resistor. I can't remember exactly where it was, I'll ask him tomorrow and get back to you.

When we try to start the truck, you can hear the fuel pump and then it shuts off. It is probably something so dumb, I hope.

There is no chip in the key.

Ok, if your getting fuel and your getting spark it should fire and run. The only other thing you need is air, and I seriously doubt your not getting that. Although it is possible something built a nest in your intake.

Your first post mentioned removing an alarm, was this an aftermarket alram system? Aftermarket alram systems are notorious for draining batteries dead. Teh stock security system on the other hand is only activated when you try to start the truck. Reason I ask about the after market system is maybe one of the wires associated with it has come apart or something.

Just because the fule pump is coming on doesn't mean your getting fuel. Test it with a gas pressure tester. Like $35 bucks unless you know someone with one. Or disconnect the fuel filter and see if your getting fuel. Careful gas will shoot everywhere, you'll know if it is working. And your sure you have gas in the tank right??????

Short little story.
During my last 4wheeling trip the gentlemen who spansored the event (45 trucks) couldn't get his truck to run. About 8 of his closest drinking buddies helped him swap ignition systems, change fluids, test everything. They spent almost the entire night drinking and working on his truck to get it running for the nexts days activities. Turns out he was out of gas. ;)

Been along time since I posted, but had a mechanic look at it.
Apparently, it seems the truck was stolen before I bought. Some of the wires in the harness in the steering column were taped together with wire tape. Mechanic stated I was lucky because the wires were somehow going to trigger the air bag to go off. When we first purchased the truck, the rear hatch was sealed shut and we couldn't figure out why. We put the pieces together, and from what we pieced together it seems the theif broke through the rear hatch and stole the truck. The owner didn't want it happening again so he sealed the hatch. I don't know but it makes sense. Wires cut in steering column, rear hatch sealed....

Thanks for everyone's input.