Thought I'd give you guys a peek at how stock Typhoon/Syclone parts fit on the newer Blazers/Jimmys.
I upgraded the Turbo on my wife's 92 Typhoon and made my own downpipe.
I purchased a used set of Typhoon exhaust Mflds and made a plan to turbo her
winter driver (98 Jimmy 4dr 4x4)

The stock Typhoon manifolds bolt right up, So does the stock Typhoon downpipe and it welds right up to your stock exhaust!!!!
You need to grind the Power Steering stud down to nothing on the drivers side.
The front axel(diff) needs to be pulled to remove the oil pan and put a return line fitting in. Adding the coolant feed/returns to/from the turbo as well.
The IC is a cheapy from E-bay I got for free. (Traded work)
The MAF is on the non pressure side.
The Battery needs to be dropped down 4-5" same spot. just down.
Here are some pictures. I have not painted any of the pipes or made it pretty yet.
This is our winter truck.
Anyway.. it's about a solid 3day job with all the materials being chased down.
I had about a week of tinkering with it on and off.
I'll be using HP Tuners sofware to edit the stock ECM. If the Crappy Spider Injectors won't push enough fuel I'll add a 7th injector or Alky to make up the difference.
It'll be limited to aournd the 10-13psi if I had to guess.
Not trying to make a racer out of it.. just make it more fun to drive for the winter for my wife. She'll go into Typhoon withdrawel with out somthing!
Hope this helps someone thinking of making more with out spending a load!
~Scott
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98ICooler.JPG
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98jimmyICpipes.JPG
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98jimmyPSICpipe.JPG

I'd finish it like my Hybrid Camaro with a Buick 3.8 but this Jimmy is just a beater.
~Scott
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/Camaro11(1).JPG
The wife's Typhoon:
http://lh3.google.com/epixpc/RwAfpNaWlaI/AAAAAAAAC_s/7BM999GNceQ/s800/DSC_0458.JPG

thats awesome you have anymore pics i know of were i can get that stuff to do that i have a 2wd 2door with the 4.3 vortec i would like to do that is a programmer necessary when doing this mod?

The ECM is going to need to be calibrated for fuel and timing for sure. The truck is drivable with no problems with low boost and part throttle. I won't be doing any WOT till I get the HP Tuner software. It's around 700.00. I can tune or send re-flashes once I get the software for about 200.00.

The ECM just won't be programmed for boost. It's setup for 14.7-15.2AFR at almost all times. That's too lean for boost. I'm sure the timing is too agressive for a boosted as well. That's the first places I'll be tuning. There's alot of other places I'll make changes once I have the program.

Tuning is key to any boosted vehicle. Don't neglet this part or you'll be putting a engine in it very soon after!!!!
I can take pictures of anything you need.
~Scott

do you have any pics of how all the lines are ran for like oil to the turbo and the piping for the turbo and intercooler the pics you have are great just wanted a lil more in depth if you know what i mean

Sure.. send me a e-mail at UR50SLO at aol

I'll send you all the info and all the pictures I've got so you have them.

If you need me to take any more pictures I'd be glad to.
~Scott

cool thanks i will when i get off work were i work all the email sites like aol,yahoo,msn are all restricted.

Looks sweet. Where did you hide the coolant tank?

Just a update for you guys.

The spider injector and factory manifold would support 5-7psi of boost no problem with using HPTuners to adjust WOT fuel. If you plan on going much more than that you'll need to purchase a Marine (boat) MPFI Manifold. There about 450.00 on E-bay. Comes complete with external fuel rail/injectors,lower intake/upper plenum and injectors. The injectors are too small but you can put in what ever size you want at that point.

I've had great luck with HPTuners. We are at 10psi of boost with 33lb/hr injectors. Runs strong guys!
6000mi boosted now :)
Wife drives it daily...
Hope that helps,
Scott

Oh.. the coolant tank... Lol... I had a left over one from a 2006 Surb. WRX STI that I stuck on the drivers side of the radiator and ran a line over to it. That was the easy part ;)
~Scott

How did you run all of the EVAP and other vacuum powered accessories (brake booster, PCV valve, transfer case switch, etc)?

For those of you wondering, here is a Mercury 4.3L Intake Manifold (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-MARINE-4-3-BOAT-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-NEW-motors_W0QQitemZ370021920360QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em370021920360) on eBay. But again, this manifold is missing provisions for the EVAP purge solenoid, brake booster, and PCV valve.

wow dude thats a sweet mod. i was thinkin of doin it to my 1st gen. where did u get the turbo and other parts and bout how much? do u think it would bolt up easier to a 1st gen bein as the typhoon is basically a turbo 1st gen? and i like the hood on ur wife's typhoon where did u get it?

Besides the missing EVAP and other vaccum stuff that Kyle mentioned, does that marine manifold bolt right up, i.e wire connections and such? Just a curiosity.

BTW, nice job with the turbo, I wish I could have the time/money to do something like that to pep mine up some more.

The Evap line is just sitting at the moment. I could just put it to manifold vaccume since it only comes on when the ECM calls for it.
At the back of the Marine intake manifold I put a 3/8 fitting so I could hook that up to my brake booster. The PCV go's to Manifold vaccume as well. (port on top of Marine intake)
I deleted the EGR all together. There is a port for it but you'd have to do some rigging with the valve it's self since there's no casting for it to "bolt up" to the Marine intake.

The wire connector that go's onto the top of the plastic intake now and powers up your 6 small injectors for the poppet valves needs to be cut one by one and solderd onto indiviual clips for the external injectors. (12) Wires all together. No biggie. 6 Injector clips you can get from a junk yard for 10.00 and your set. I've got the injector schematic here. Peice of cake.

You can bolt up Sy/Ty Manifolds to any 4.3L. You can buy them used off SyTy.org or on e-bay when they show up. I bought another set for a buddy for 400.00.... That was Turbo,manifolds,downpipe,inlet pipe. The intercooler is a cheapy off e-bay also.125ish.
HPTuners is the software for OBD2.
I would not reccomend using boost with a TBI setup. It's been done but the system is not very forgiving as it's a MAP baised system. You'd be better to get the entire Sy/Ty package if you've got a very old 4.3L with TBI.
Glad to help anyone into boost :)

The hood you can get on-line do a google search on blazer hoods. I got mine from a guy on e-bay for 300.00 when he was selling his Typhoon and had extra parts.
Hope that helps,
Scott~

I guess for the evap and other vacuum powered devices, it all depends on how much time you spend in boost and if you get back to normal vacuum levels once you are just cruising along. I suppose you would. I don't have much experience with turbo'd gasoline engines, more diesel experience when it comes to turbos, but I do have quite a bit with supercharged apps on gas engines. Most all of the vacuum stuff is taken off of the non-pressurized side of the supercharger to keep constant vacuum to all of the accessories that utilize it.

But if you aren't having any difficulties with the HVAC, brake booster, or other items that use engine vacuum, then everything should be working good. I was just wondering.

aight sweet thanks for all the info! ya i had been thinking of when my engine goes or gets high up in miles to go find a totalled Sy/Ty and rip the engine out and drop it in since everything should pretty much bolt right up besides a few things cuz of the turbo of course. and i've got a 94 w/ CPI.

hey swartlkk u said u know a lot about supercharges well would a supercharger be a good idea on the 4.3L or wouldnt u get much power out of it? also how would it compare to a turbo? ik a turbo builds up boost where superchager has constant boost.

You would always get power out of an engine by either form of forced induction. Problem with a supercharger is finding one that is as economical as doing a turbo if you have fabrication skills. #1 issue is that no one makes a roots type supercharger for the 4.3L. While it is possible to have a lower intake manifold made up to mount an M90 or other roots type S/C to the engine, you would then have to work through the fuel system changes, computer changes, etc. Centrifugal S/C are made, but are $$$.

A turbo is the best option for the 4.3L if you have some fab skills or know someone that does.

ok cuz ya i've never heard of a supercharger for the 4.3 so i was just curious. but ya thats a lot of work so its just easier goin w/ a turbo then. I'm pretty good at fabin up my own stuff (goin for mechanical engineering helps) so do they have a turbo (besidesone out of theSy/Ty)that u can buy and "bolt" on to the 4.3 or do u have to buy a general turbo and fab up ur own stuff to mount it?

you dont need to have a specific turbocharger. there are several different sizes out there. i dont know a whole lot about what all needs to be done to install a turbo but 02Vortech has a rearmount turbo on his truck and The Brettster is in the process of installing one on his truck.

ok thanks! i'll look into it

http://02vortec.tripod.com/ (http://02vortec.tripod.com/)

^^^that's 02 Vortech's build thread in case you havent seen it

never really saw the build up but i've seen his blazer b4 either on this forum or a diff one. love how it says rice killer lol

I have most of the parts its just im low on funds to finish it. Its not a cheap project.

http://s-seriesforum.com/forum/images/smilies/ffc.gif
Anyhow.. here's the pic's from today. Love the Marine intake baby!
I Epoxy'd the steel upper to the allum. throttle body.. has not moved since I put it on there 6000mi ago. I painted all the pipes... cleaned up some of the wireing and put a second thin O-ring on the injectors to seal them up. If you use a newer thin injector it should not be a problem.. they just put big holes in these Marine intakes.
Getting closer on the Final tune. HPTuners is the way to go with these guys... No kidding. 10PSI here with No issues. No knock Doing great.

http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/JimmyMarineIntake.JPG


http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98TurboJimmy1.JPG

http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98TurboJimmy2.JPG

http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98Jimmypaintedpipes.JPG


The drivers side pipe is close to the hood insulator so it rubs a bit... but it's a beater right?
__________________
1992 Naked Typhoon :1GDCT18Z8N0810881 Help?
Wife's truck 92 Typhoon.... FMIC from 2 GN IC's,AFPR, Autoprom&Tunerpro, Code 59, 65lb/hrs,61dbb turbo,built block. Built 700R waiting to go in. (Going to paint it Sunburst Orange)
06 Broken truck winner Hoping to keep it one year only.
1986 GN Powered Camaro
1998 Jimmy with Stock Typhoon Turbo,DP,Headers! Wife's winter beater!
Who says boys have the toys?
Not at my House!
Life has no meaning with out boost!

More pics + how to are now required :D

Rear mount turbo isn't really an option for me, since I play in the mud... and I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't be very happy being body panel deep in the mud :D

ORIGINAL: drperry

More pics + how to are now required :D

Rear mount turbo isn't really an option for me, since I play in the mud... and I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't be very happy being body panel deep in the mud :D


agreed!!! how to would be very helpful!!!!!!!!

It's fairly labor intensive.. but the parts shouln't cost that much.

Never Ever buy a FMU to fuel one of these engines. I'm not going to rant on about that but a FMU should never be used to fuel a engine PERIOD. I'd put a piggy back system on before I'd use one of those steaming piles. Ok.. rant finished.:eek:

You'll need:
Sy/Ty stock exhaust Manifolds
Stock Sy/Ty style turbo/downpipe
Marine Intake Manifold (e-bay) 400.00 ish.
30lb/hr injectors or larger.
HPTuners. I have a file setup for 10psi
Some 2.5" mandrel bends (steel)
E-bay Intercooler
Moroso 2-part epoxy to affix a bonnet to the Throttle body. Or have a flange welded on ... A guy on another site said that a LS1 throttle body is the same size but has a nice long snout on it that you could attatch a bonnet to with out welding! You'd need to transfer the shaft from the 4.3L to keep the same throttle apendages.
Cut/weld pipes so it's arranged in a flowing fashon.. like mine or not..up to you.
You'll need to plum the oil feed off the drivers side oil pressure feed line (above oil filter housing) You'll need 5feet of -4 AN hose and fittings.
There's a fitting you can put where your oil level sensor is for the oil return.
(Guy's with 3.8L F-bodys do it with no problems) I've not tried it yet. I put mine in the hard way... took off pan.. ect.
Coolant feed to-turbo/from turbo.
Relocate MAF Pre-turbo.
Put IAT sensor into incoming pipe (after turbo/IC)
Tuning.... Tuning... That's what is going to make or break these setups.
If it's not tuned right or skimp on fueling it correctly/timing/settings you'll be looking at a yard orniment with a blown engine. 4.3L don't take detonation well. It wipes the mains right out of them.
3.8L buicks are more forgiving and just blow head gaskets. We've got too much clamping force on our 4.3L head to blow them out.
I've got a entire set of pictures I can send you if you contact my e-mail.
Hope that helps,:D
Scott~
UR50SLO@aol.com

Scott,

You should just create an album right here. That way you don't have to worry about answering email requests for pix. Just a thought.

Umm... never done that... Guess I'll have to spend some time learning.. I don't mind answering e-mails...everyone has a different question and normaly needs to be answered differently.
I'll look into it.
Thanks, Scott~

Anybodyknow what the stock fuel injectors flow rate is? :D

The stock Injector flow rate for the 4.3L spider injectors and the V8 Engines are 23.1LB/HR.

I don't have a spider...

What year are we talking about? Old TBI stuff or newer Vortec Blazer/Jimmy? All the newer Vortec Injectors are 23.1lb/hr I call it a spider injector.. Might be a slang term your not usto.
~Scott

Could be, lol, it's a 2005.

You should check out http://photobucket.com/for making a dedicated album, so the pics don't go down...

Or use the forums built in image hosting for it, so the pics are always there :D

ORIGINAL: UR50SLO

What year are we talking about? Old TBI stuff or newer Vortec Blazer/Jimmy? All the newer Vortec Injectors are 23.1lb/hr I call it a spider injector.. Might be a slang term your not usto.
~Scott


You've also got the MFI spiders in the mid-'02+ that are something like 18-20lb/hr. They are lower static flow rate than the injector/poppet nozzle setup used in the '96 thru mid-'02 SCFI motors.

ORIGINAL: drperry

I don't have a spider...


Yes you do!

I stand corrected :D

It just didn't show up in the GM Parts Direct catalogue, lol.

Ours is a 98 and in the ECM perameters they are labled 23.1 Lb/hr.

I've not scanned anything newer than our 98. I'll soon be doing the same turbo conversion on a 01 Blazer for a friend of mine.

If they went even smaller than the 23.1's Eesh... The entire fuel system design sucks.
Did you know you can put a Buick GN (Grand National 255lr/hr pump) in our sending unit's? they are only 99.00 and since it's a Warbro pump it'll be the last on you put in.
I put one in our tank when I turbo'd it. I've got my buddy's here now. Alot cheaper than a autozone/advance pump and it'll be the last time you pull the tank out.
~Scott

Yeah, the MFI spiders are even lower. But you won't have to contend with that unless it's an '02+ and not all '02s got the MFI spider. Bad part is you have to pull the plenun on the '02s to find out... If you see wires going to the end of the nylon lines, its an MFI spider. Since you will already be upgrading to the Marine intake, sell the spider to someone else. It is a good update for the often problematic poppet nozzle setup.

Now, did you happen to get any pics of the fuel pump disassembled from the sender on your '98? I thought the plastic senders were pretty well sealed up...

*EDIT* - I am watching "How It's Made" on Discovery right now. They just put together a fuel pump assembly. I knew how the pump worked (I am a hydraulic designer after all), but I had never taken one apart before. Kinda neat to see how they go together and I can see exactly how the fail. It was an older style metal sending unit, not like the plastic ones the newer s-series trucks have.

I'll take pictures in the morning of old/new and a description of "how-to"
It's a streight forward swap. Pump is same basic size.
I'll make a documentary in the AM...

I love all the Discovery shows! Good info.. I've not seen the pump one yet..too bad I'm at my shop in the booth painting parts [X(]
In the AM fellas.
~Scott

Out of curiosity, how would plugging the return line on the fuel system hurt the pump?

The Wynnjammer (sp?) supercharger kit does that to raise the fuel pressure up...

You shouldn't plug a return line in a return type system. At the least it should be just a higher pressure regulator. It should also be a hi-po pump...

That's what I thought, lol.

It was a Powerdyne kit the guy installed...

"Well it comes with, what is basically a fuel pressure regulater. It mounts down by the fuel filter. It goes inline with the return line so basically when it sees boost. It blocks off the return line which ups your fuel pressure or maxes out your fuel pump. Our pumps are capible of 90 psi. I put my fuel pressure gauge on it and drove it. The fuel pressure went to 85 PSI at 7 PSI boost."

Is what he had to say...

I just couldn't see that being good for the pump in any way...

"Well it comes with, what is basically a fuel pressure regulater. It mounts down by the fuel filter. It goes inline with the return line so basically when it sees boost. It blocks off the return line which ups your fuel pressure or maxes out your fuel pump. Our pumps are capible of 90 psi. I put my fuel pressure gauge on it and drove it. The fuel pressure went to 85 PSI at 7 PSI boost."

That's a FMU.... That's what I've been ranting about. It's a total Pile of $hit. It's a terrible way to fuel a boosted engine. The only correct way to fuel it is with a custom program where you can change the actual Injector duty cycle and ignition timing along with MANY other perameters that need to be changed for a engine that is seeing boost. 99% of making good power and reliabilty along with retaining Fuel Milage and drivability is the tune. I've seen guys throw thousands of dollars on good parts and have a crap tune and hurt their car or not even come close to making the power they thought they were going to. It's hard to spend money on somthing that's not "tangable" or you can't see... A tune is just that... You can't "see" it or feel it and alot of people miss that inportant step.
And don't go to a Dyno to tune stuff. That's a total joke. I've never been to a dyno with any of my stuff and don't see a point. There's alot of other factors on a vehicle than just the rear tire rolling resistace. Wind drag, "real road drag" resistance of the rest of the car rolling... fuel slosh in the tank for take off. Among alot of other things that a Dyno can't properly simulate.
Going to a dyno to tune Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 4-5pulls isn't going to get you anywhere close to a real tune. The numbers they come up with on the dyno are never acurrate anyway. They can vary a number of inputs to make it read whatever they want. It's a racket.
You need to tune WOT LAST... .... Everything before WOT is where you spend most of your time driving. It comes first.
Ok.. I'm going to finish taking pictures of this fuel pump assembly and post them for you guys so your not paying 300.00 for a junk pump and sending unit from A-zone or Advance.

Hope this helps someone who wants to do a cheaper better fuel pump for the sending units like this one. The Warbro 255lr/hr pump is 99.00 through www.fullthrottlespeed.com (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com)
Here's the process.
Dis-assemble with screwdriver. Push in the two tabs on each side of the slide in plastic center section.. it comes apart. Remove all old parts from inside.. including the black plastic line/rubber gromits ect. Gut everything.
I put the pump back in the black rubber jacket that was on the old pump. It sets the right depth for the new one. It's snug.. .but it'll go on. Light oil might help slid it on.
The pump comes with all hose/clamps/wire harness adaptor. Plug and play.
I cut approx 1/4 to 1/2" off the hose it comes with since the pump is on "springs" and you have to push it down some in the tank.. By cutting that small peice off it pre-loads the springs and it shouldn't kink the hose when you put it in the tank. If you leave it too long there's a chance when you push it down into the tank it could fold too far and kink the rubber feed line......
That's really it. I filed the top of the sending unit by where the wires plug in so I could get the screwdiver/clamp on a little deeper....
Hope that helps,Scott~
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/255apart.JPG
All apart and gutted (above)
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/255Unusedoldpumparts.JPG
This is all the stuff you won't need (above)
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/255Oldnewparts.JPG
All parts... tools old/new and kit.
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/255together.JPG
This is almost together. Need to cut that much off the hose (excess to load the springs)
Then slide it all back down into the housing and make sure the fuel sock(Strainer) is at the bottom. Click the wires together and it should look like this.(below)
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/255finished.JPG
Here it is all together and with the box part number for you. That is how much hose I cut off the end to pre-load the springs.
Shouldn't take much longer than 15-20min to do this.
~Scott

Very cool!

Did you notice any difference in how the pump installed into your tank? I would think you would want to reference how much the sending unit compressed initially, then remove a bit less than that amount from the rubber hose. That hose isn't going to flex like the original accordian style plastic hose.

That's about how much I took out of mine. This is a buddy's that he gave me to do for him.
That plastic hose grows over time... it starts out small but it sure ends up a few inches longer over time with exposure to fuel.
The rubber EFI hose that's pictured will "give" a little if you need it to. I don't have the tank here to double check but I'm going off what I did with mine.
Just wanted to mention to anyone looking at doing this that if it's left too long it could bend over and pinch the line. Some tanks may have different depths. Just check while putting the sending unit back in and you'll be fine :)
~Scott

Scott... Your avatar is hypnotizing me :D

I put some other interesting one's you can copy and use.

Hopefully they attatched.

Since All our stuff is turbocharged.. I'm almost Immune to boost... Na.. just kiddin...:D

local://upfiles/8222/E2B31FBCD7D7400C873D0B959DD5AF78.jpg

local://upfiles/8222/36DD17A0CCCC41BC869A1D4DA31825DD.jpg

local://upfiles/8222/1147CC06AC8A4B09BA30738376EDB250.jpg

local://upfiles/8222/02C31618C395462EB5D067831BE0E451.gif

ORIGINAL: UR50SLO

Just wanted to mention to anyone looking at doing this that if it's left too long it could bend over and pinch the line. Some tanks may have different depths. Just check while putting the sending unit back in and you'll be fine :)
~Scott


That's exactly why I asked.

scott, can you post a schamatic of your fuel injection wireing? i have been thinking of a rearmount turbo. i am interested in how you wired up those injectors on that marine manifold. i can do it myself, but just need to know what wire goes were? another thing, can i do this manifold change before i do my turbo without a computer retune. i would think that my ecm should still work with this manifold, right? thank you.



also, what about the map, and fpr?

The Injector wireing go's as follows:
Keep in mind... there is power to all the pink wires with ignition on.
The ECM Grounds the other side of the injectors to make them fire.

#1 injector: (E) Pink and (F) Black
#2 injector: (H) Pink and (G) Green/Black
#3 injector:(D) Pink and (C) Pink/Black
#4 injector: (J) Pink and (K) Light blue/Black
#5 injector: (B) Pink and (A) Black/White
#6 injector: (L) Pink and (M) Yellow/Black

If you take the main injector plug out of the top plenum where it go's to the spider injector.. and take the plastic cover off the top of the plug to expose the wires/connector you'll find the letters that I labled above go with the ports on the connector. Take 2 off at a time (for one injector) and go from 1-6.
(Picture Below)
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/98injection.JPG

The injectors are slightly larger than your stock 23.1lb/hr injectors. The stock FPR on the Marine intake is set a little higher also.
I think with out tuning it might be rich on start up but not severe. The ECM will learn the rest of the fuel out for the time being. You'll still need HP tuners when your boosted.
~Scott

Whats you gas mileage like with that setup ?

We drove it about 800mi round trip before the manifold change and tuning and got 21mpg on the highway.
I'm sure it's at least at stock MPG if not a little above since I tuned it.
It just get's around alot better! Lol.
~Scott

If a turbo charged setup is done right and tuned correctly you won't hurt your fuel mileage. You can get positive results from the extra swirl and force the turbo adds even when not in "boost".
Most stock manifolds/cats ect are restrictive and kill effecency and flow. Adding a good turbo setup improves both.
My 89 Turbo Nissan Maxima get's 25mpg city and 30highway... runs 13.40's at 107.89mph. Engine is stock with 240,000mi. I turbo charged and tuned it 60,000mi ago.
http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/Maximacowel1.JPG

Hmm, i like the sound of that, time to start hunting down parts.
with that hptuner are the "credits" you get with it cars you can use it on or is it how many ECU updates you can do ?

With HPTuners... there's Credits like you said... It comes with the ability to tune 4 different GM cars (8credits)
When you go to tune new cars it's 100.00 per car.
The way I understand it if you tune one "example" 98 Jimmy you can then tune any 98 Jimmy/Blazer with out purchasing new credits.
I've not had a "Duplicate" vehicle come in to test it on but that's the way it was presented to me when I bought it.
It takes awhile to get usto working with it but it's not that bad.
I've hacked alot of factory computers... every one has it's goods/bads.
I wish it was more "real time" tuning it'd make it faster but I can live with what I've got. Better than most.
~Scott

You do realize you're going to have to post your tuning fileup, right? :D

If any of you have HPTuners I'd be glad to mod your program or send you a version of mine that might suit your truck and setup.
No problem there. You'd have to have the exact setup as mine to use the tune I'm at now.
The timing table would be a good start for a boosted 4.3L.
There's alot to gain from the factory tune ... It's yuck. :)
~Scott

thanks for that info.

ORIGINAL: UR50SLO

If any of you have HPTuners I'd be glad to mod your program or send you a version of mine that might suit your truck and setup.
No problem there. You'd have to have the exact setup as mine to use the tune I'm at now.
The timing table would be a good start for a boosted 4.3L.
There's alot to gain from the factory tune ... It's yuck. :)
~Scott


If only mine wasn't a hit or miss... HP Tuners doesn't support the '05 S-Series 4.3L :D


But soon as I snag HP Tuners, I'll let ya know and we can exchange stock profiles (if it works) and compare differences, lol

Doesn't support 05? Did you get that from the HPTuners site?
It's generaly the older one's they don't suppport (LT1) ect.(97down)
Maby I should specify how the "Credits" work.
Once you register the truck (example my 98) I can tune my 98truck as many times as I like. (Unlimited)
If you add another vehicle... 99WS6Transam... or any other.. you can tune it unlimited.
Each vehicle requires 2 credits.
The program comes with 8credits. (4vehicles) (unlimited tunes)
When you go for the 5th vehicle you'll have to buy 2 creidts (99.00) And so on when you add vehicles.
Hope that explains it better.
First thing We'd need to address on any boosted truck is the timing.
And move up the Power enrichment under heavy load.(boost)
Be glad to help,
Scott~

That's from the HP Tuners site, and emailing them to double check, lol ;)

Just contacted a administrator at HPTuners.
He said he should be able to do your 05 ECM.
Contact him at: Bill@Hptuners.com
You can discuss what your truck is and what you'll need to do
to have it directly supported.
I could not scan a 08 Durimax Diesel the first time.. sent him the vehicle scan file
and in 2days I had a Beta Version to read and tune the truck.
Sometime's it's contacting the right people with the right questions :)
~Scott

I'll have to fire off an email afterI get a little sleep in...

My main reason for a tuner program is to get rid of that horrible RPM holding feature, lol.

I pull it out of gear and it takes 2 seconds or so before the RPM's start dropping...

Hey great looking setup Scott. I had a question for you about the Walbro pump you used. I know you have a part number off the box the pump came in, in one of the pictures. But, I was hoping you could tell me weather or not the pump is a Walbro F20000169 (actual Walbro #)?

Thanks,
Eric


I don't know if this is the best spot for me to add this but, I've been talking with a fuel injection shop and they tested the newer V6 fuel spider (I'm guessing the V8 one would be the same) for me on an ASNU flow bench at 80% duty cycle and adjusted the pressure with the regulator and these were the results:

Stock opening pressure was 60 psi and regulator maintained 65 psi at 22.3pph flow.
Then they increased the pressure. 70 psi - 23.5 pph[/align] 75 psi - 24.7 pph[/align] 80 psi - 25.1 pph[/align] 85 psi - 25.5 pph[/align] The regulator would not continue past 85 psi


[/align]

That is either the part number right from Warbro or the part number that Full Throttle Speed and style uses. I'm not sure. It's for a Buick GN. 225lr/hr pump.
Any other GN kit should be similar if not exactly the same. I think they are 95.00.

Thanks and hope that helps,
Scott~

Checked with Full Throttle Speed and yes it is the same pump.

Thanks,
Eric

Okay, let me get this stright before i attempt it...[8D]. The entire top portion from a cyclone or typhoon, should fit onto our 4.3l motors right? If thats not right, the Turbo manifold will right?

Let me ask you ahead of myself, so, from what i'm understandin in other forums is that the intake manifold on our trucks do not hold boost, or what?:eek:

The stock '96+ manifolds will hold around 10psi of boost. If you aren't doing anything to the bottom end, that is probably as much as you should run. Over 10 psi and you really should be looking at lowering the static compression ratio of the bottom end, a different cam with more overlap to take advantage of the pressurized intake, and a new solid intake.

As the typhoon engine had perpendicular intake manifold bolts, the manifold from the turbo motor will not work on the '96+ SCFI motors as their intake bolts are vertical (not perpendicular to the sealing surface).

There is another thread that shows an aftermarket intake for the 4.3L that can be used for turbo applications. Let me see if I can find it.

*EDIT* - Here ya go:
Bad news... Good news (Turbo Build) (http://www.blazerforum.com/m_148944/tm.htm)

If you decide to use a Sy/Ty intake you'll need to pull the heads off yours and have the "Old" style intake pattern drilled and tapped for the Sy/Ty manifold.
The lower Sy/Ty intake will also need to be welded on top/bottom of the intake ports since the vortec heads are taller/deeper than the stock sy/ty heads or L35's.

A Marine intake bolts right on. There's some small work when changing it over but very simple and can be purchased for 250-400.00.

Elderbrock intakes will work also. But need bungs welded in for fuel injectors and rails setup..

Those are your simpler choices.

Your stock intake can handle the boost it's just that your fuel system won't support much more than 10psi. (volume of fuel) (as stated above by swart)
There's guys that nuked their stock Sy/Ty engines and got a junk yard vortec style motor and have had great luck with them. ... I agree the pistons are not as ideal as a stock Sy/Ty piston but that only becomes a factor with detonation. A good tune with no knock retard/detonation issues and your ok.
Hope that helps,
Scott~

Wow! Great information! So, all i'd have to get is the Sy/Ty Turbo Manifold, a turbo, all the oil lines and such, charge piping, intercooler, and something such as HPTuners to tune for fuel and no knock?

Now, you're saying that around 10lbs of boost is what the stock injectors will hold up to right....of course with a tune that is?

All i'm wanting to have is about 8-10lbs of boost, will my stock motor hold up to that? I've got 64,000 miles on it and have had the oil changed every 3k miles...i haven't dogged on it much at all because the darn things so slow, it's pointless to get on it.:)

I surely do appreciate the help fellas and i'm sorry if i'm being a pain!

One more quick question...
Would a T3/T4 turbo be sufficient enough for this build?

If I were you I'd choose the Marine intake or the Elderbrock intake. The Sy/Ty intake is too much trouble.
Your stock engine would easily support 8-10psi.
HPTuners is what you'll use... Definatly.

If you pick up stock Sy/Ty exhaust manifolds/cross-over you can choose from a wide selection of turbos that bolt right on. Bolt on downpipes (stock or other) So that's the easiest route there for sure.

We have 146,000+mi on our stock engine now.. still doing great!
E-mail any time for pic's/info.
~Scott
UR50SLO@aol.com

scott, i will be installing a marine intake next weekend. pickedup a new oneoff of ebay for $200. my question is what line on the marine intake is the return line from the regulator? is it the top or bottom line? i am changeing to a marine intake due to to many problems from my stock injection system and my stock regulator. i will also be fabbing up a rear mount turbo as soon as i get done collecting all the parts that i need. thanks for your help.

Congrats!

The larger (3/8s) line is the inlet from the pump. (fuel feed)

The smaller 5/16th line is the return to the tank.

Remember to use your stock throttle body and tweak the lever for the cruse controll to clear the fuel rail.

You'll need to make a gasket for the throttle body or buy one for a LS1. I think they are the same size and pattern.

The wire colors/hook-ups are on this site and this thread.

If you get stuck e-mail me UR50SLO@aol.com
I'll get you my phone number so you can call if you need that.
Thanks,
Scott~

thanks for all the help. i have everything else figured out so far(i hope). i have a roll of gasket material that i plan to cut foruseon the TB. i dont think that i should have any problems on the rest. as far as my EGR, it is no longer on my truck, and i had my ecm reprogrammed by wait4me. i am trying to get all the parts that will be required to do a rearmount turbo(yes i will take pics). i hope to have everything for the turboin a few months. i was not aware of the cruise control bracket needing to be modified, so thanks for the heads up. i was the one that asked you for the wire hook-ups/colors ealier in this thread. thanks again for all the info.

I've got nothing against rear mounts. They are simple to hook up and effective.

No problem on the info... sure should help save some head scratching and time when it comes to someone else doing the same process.

Good luck with the swap and if you need somthing let me know. :)
~Scott

If I didn't bury my truck to the frame in mud, a rear mount would work :D

Finally got some "alone" time with the Jimmy today.

Went through and changed spark plugs/wires..... Changed the oil and filter.

Plugs looked awsome. I changed them anyway. R42LTS gapped at .33

I think the wires were OEM since they were numbered. I thought I'd changed them

before but I might not have. I'll need to get a new cap this week.

I tuned it some more. Added some timing in places and took some out in a few.

Added some more fuel in PE (power enrichment)

Getting consistant 11.7-11.5 AFR on the wideband at WOT with no knock at 11psi.

The intake air temp driving around is about 10-15deg above outside temp. I've got

the temp sensor just before the throttle body so it's seeing close to what the

engine sees. That way I can retard the timing in another table if the IAT get's too

high.

Moved the shift points a bit higher as I'd backed them off to begin with.

All's working well. Oil was clean and full when I changed it.

Hope more of you join this soon! It sure is a blast to drive!
~Scott

Getting consistant 11.7-11.5 AFR on the wideband at WOT with no knock at 11psi.



thats not too lean? i thought that 14.7 AFR is what you want.

On a wideband O2...

The lower the number the Richer it is.
The higher the number the Leaner it is.

The ECM will try and target 14.7-1 Actuall AFR.

The stock Narrowband's are only accurate just above and below 14.7.

That's why everyone is switching to having a wide band since it is more

accurate over a "wider" band than your stock O2's.

For a boosted application..... every engine and combo is different but

Most tuner's target 12.5 to 10.8 AFR. The Jimmy seems happy with mid

11's and it's safe there.

My Nissan hates leaner AFRs. Anything less than 10.9 and it's not

making as much power... Noticably not as much. Weird but true.

So it's nice to have all the new tuning tools to help guide you into

powerwith economy and reliabilitymuch quicker.

Thank god the carberator is dead... but it did teach

me to use all my senses when tuning a car. ;)

~Scott

thanks for clearing that up for me. i am trying to learn as much as possible about tuning before i turbo. i thought that it was the other way around (boy i feel smart), meaning the lower the number the leaner you are.

i have seen you around on other forums, and wondering if you have tried the propane injection yet ( as it was mentioned on another site). i was wondering if it was worth all the headache.

sorry, not trying to hijack your post. just curious.

No problem at all. I've not worked with the propane yet. I was thinking of getting into it since it's cheaper than gasoline now. The kits are around 1000.00 depending on the power level. I know that Propane has alot more octane than regular fuel which helps us on boosted vehicle's. It would be around 110octane if you compare it to gas. (approximatly)
Timing is different as is several other things.
Apparently from what the other guy said you do the opposite with Propane... you start lean and work to rich. A overly rich propane setup glow's the intake valves and they warp.
I'm not a expert on this but I'd love to try some on my Nissan turbo car and learn some about how it works!
The guy on the other board seems to have worked with it quite a bit. You might want to ask him some questions about it if your interested.
:) ~Scott

Looks good, Scott!

I forgot I had an account over here.

i'm gonna have to get my 98 s-10 back this looks way to cool to not do i think it will be very interesting in a 2wd 98 s-10

It's been over a year on the Jimmy Turbocharged. Over 13,000miles city/highway combined. We drive it on vacations and my wife drives it daily. We still get 2-4mpg
better than the truck get's stock. It's a blast to drive and all is going very very well with the truck.
I just purchased some used stock Typhoon wheels for it from a fellow Sy/Ty member that got some corvette's for his.
It lowered the truck 2" by just switching tires/rims and makes it feel much better.
Anyway... Thought I'd give you a update on duribility and dependabiilty of this
setup on a daily driver truck,
Scott~

Is that 2 - 4 MPG better than what yours got, or 2 - 4 MPG better than the sticker said it's supposed to get :D

Good to hear she's running good!
Might be something I can look into, now...
Though, a V-8 swap would be easier when it comes to the computer programming for me... Since I have no performance shops to do the tuning around here...

2-4mpg better than we were getting before... We clocked it this summer when it was 90deg outside going on a trip. We got 21mpg with the A/C on all the way down loaded with all of us and luggage.

I didn't lean it out it's still in closed loop at 14.7-15.2afr while driving.

She was going to race it with my car up at Stanton but got sick the night before... I sure was looking forward to knowing what that truck will run. I'll find out next year when her Typhoon is finished up and I'm driving the Jimmy every day!
~Scott

Hmmm... I wonder if I can get a 2 - 4 MPG gain...

I already get 21+ MPG on the highway...

Probably helped the city mileage a bit... The 4.3 might be torquey on it's own... But Jimmy/Blazer's are heavy, lol :D

i will be putting a turb on my 98blazer in jan or feb. you can use any turbo but you will sacrifice top end with a smaller easier to spool turbo vs a slow spooling big freee flowing turbo with lots of top end. if you just want something that is fun on the street then get a smaller one but if you want to try and humiliate the v8 guys then slap a big one on lol also the tbi setuops will work great with the right tune and a 2 bar map sensor. biggest problem i think i will have is the fueling ...damn little spider injectors ..i think i will go the 7th or 8th injector route

oops sorry guys i was still on page one lol

Thanks for the e-mail.. I'll send you pic's/details tomorrow.

For 200-250.00 on the Marine intake that's complete on e-bay it's well worth the money.
Tuning is much easier with that intake. I just changed the oil on ours 2days ago and it's ready to roll over 154,000 which is over 14,000mi on the turbo/marine intake. We run 10-11psi with 33lb injectors (stock Typhoon's)

I agree the stock Typhoon turbo is much too small. It's great for 1/8mi and instant responces driving around. This is our beater/dd and I had the old stock turbo from her Typhoon laying around so it costed me nothing.

If you go this route since you've got a 98 you can just use my tune and be damn close to flash and drive.
Just a thought.. :)
~Scott
You don't have to use that injector.. with HPTuners I can input whatever inj. size you've got and it'll be fine.

With the 4.3 you don't really need all THAT much torque down low... It's already pretty punchy in the bottom end... Peak torque is at 2800 RPM, after all... So something that'll start spooling around 2200 - 2500ish might be a good start...

There's nothing like a 8-10lb boost launch in 4wd. Talk about torque!!!

There's nothing likeleavinga Mustang GTsitting with their jaw on the ground at a light with a 4dr Jimmy with the kids waiving out the windows.
The wife comes home with storys all the time... It's how our dinner talks go :)
~Scott

Nice! lol.
Wanna do mine? :D

It'd be like riding a bike... :)

No problem... gather up the parts and send it over !

~Scott

Whew.. this place is deader than a Possum on a county road.

Come on guy's I know it's winter but it's passed ground hog day!

Cheer up it's almost over. :)
~Scott

Hmmm... I wonder just how much boost the plastic intake manifold will take before it pops :D

Experiment time! lol.

can i convert my 1991 2dr 4wd to sy/ty and body moldings/kit?

Yes you can do a Typhoon clone if you want to. Hop over to the www.syty.net

But I'm warning you now the cladding is gold... very expensive. There is a guy that makes

fiberglass replacement one's and they are good quality. But again.. expensive!

Good luck,
Scott~

Id say about $6000 for the body kit.