96 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3, so, my first thing is the left rear brake, (Drum) seems to stick after it rains/snows and has been sitting, after driving it, it usually comes out of it but sometimes not... I have replaced everything in the rear, IE hardware, w/c, shoes, drums... My 96 grand am did the same thing?? Suggestions?? Also, The brake pedal goes at least half way down before it starts to grab?? Thinking master cylinder??

Second, the rear wiper works sometimes, and others not, it will go part way up and stop... I have to get out and give it a nudge, mostly when theres just spray on the window.... Is that normal with the added drag of not being so wet??

Whoops, ok, three questions.... I also have a squeel type sound that is always there when running, but it is in time with the rpm's, not like a constant belt squeel, seems to be comming from low center of engine??? Clutch fan maybe??

Thanks everyone for taking the time to review and reply, i do my best to help also!

There maybe some rust in a brake line causing it to stick. How is the adjustment?

2. I had the same problem with my wiper too. when it rains it would quit and have its own intermittent cycle. It was under a 6 mo warranty and they replaced a relay.

3. I dont know how many belts under your hood. Maybe a worn serpentine, low power steering fluid, rusting idle pulley bearing...

On a grabbing brake, I remember this same thing when we had a hired hand change the rear drum brakes on my dad's GMC 2500. The guy put the right rear shoes on the wrong sides. They'll go in and seem to work, but cause the lockup. I can't remember which side (looking at the end of the axle) the longer pad is supposed to go on, but maybe someone else will enlighten us all. You should definitely pull it apart and have a good look at everything inside.

Don't know about the wiper problem...

On the squeel, I'd try disconnecting the A/C compressor clutch and driving around like that to see if it is still there. Even if it isn't constant, it could still be a worn/aged belt. The 4.3L and the v8s of the same serpentine design have pretty bad problems with belt slip once the belt ages a little. Mine would only do it when it was wet outside. Replaced it with a Goodyear Gatorback belt and haven't had a problem since.

I had a noisy bearing on my previous alternator. The new one solved my noise problem.

Yeah, it definitely could be a bearing starting to go bad in any one of the like 5 things on the front of the motor that house bearings. The A/C, Alternator, PS Pump, Water Pump and the idler. I think the PS pump has ps fluid flooding the bearings so that shouldn't make any noise. The A/C, Alternator, water pump and idler though could all cause a noise at certain rpms if they are starting to wear.

Kyle, the hydrometer is no longer visible on my battery. No problems with starting/charging system. It's about 4 years old. Think it's on its way out. What do you think?

And why is there 3 posts for this now? what did I do?

ORIGINAL: 4lowlife
Kyle, the hydrometer is no longer visible on my battery. No problems with starting/charging system. It's about 4 years old. Think it's on its way out. What do you think?

Scott, try to stay on topic. But to answer your question, I'd have the battery load tested. If it doesn't pass, get a new one. Expected life of a battery is 3-5 years depending on the brand and how it is used. Seeing as how battery tests are free at most parts stores, just have one done like every other week or so. Or just replace the battery.

ORIGINAL: 4lowlife
And why is there 3 posts for this now? what did I do?

I don't see 3 posts...

before I logged out. It showed 3 "RE: couple issues" I dont see them now.

Not a problem. Sometimes the server gets mixed up. I've seen it before.

and one day I found 5 dollars.... Sorry guys I just couldnt resist. I thought it was funny.

ORIGINAL: camohog1

and one day I found 5 dollars.... Sorry guys I just couldnt resist. I thought it was funny.

Hmm.. Ok.

have you checked your axle seals? If its leaking the gear oil will contaminate the shoes and make it lock up. Just like your explanation says.

Never seen gear oil lock up a brake. Make it not work properly (not stop good) and smell bad when heated up, yeah... Lock up, no. We've had that happen on more than one occasion on my dad's '94 GMC 2500 farm truck that gets the CRAP kicked out of it.

Well i have seen it numerous times, on my own rigs and ones ive worked on, it may not have happened to you but it does happen. It is spurratic just as this fella says.

I'm just saying that I haven't seen it, not that you were wrong.

I know. bad thing about internet......No emotion. lol :D

ORIGINAL: 91_4_Door

I know. bad thing about internet......No emotion. lol :D

So true and since you're the brake & frontend guy, I'd trust your diagnosis over mine. I'm only speaking from the 3 times we've had a wheel seal go bad on my dad's farm truck. I'm sure that you've seen many more than I have.

I ma thinking more along the lines of a sticking brake cylindar, or lasck of grease where the hard moveable parts meet the hard non-movable parts. But more like a sticky brake clyindar.

They are easy and cheap to replace. Its just that you have to do another brake job to get to it, then bleed the brakes when done. Which is a good thing. Soft brakes, could be old fluid that has cooked an released air into the line(s). A complete brake flush might fix both problems. Start at the passengers rear, drivers rear, passengers front, drivers front and bleed them in that order. Monitor the brake fluid level, never let it run empty. Also don't push the brakes hard if you leave the top off, it will shoot brake fluid all over the palce, and brake fluid don't play well with most things under the hood. Also don't push the brakes all the way to the floor, 3/4 of the way is far enough. If you get air in the master cyl, then your gonna have to bleed it. Personally I would let it gravity bleed. fill up the resivor with brake fluid and go get a beer or take a piss, what ever, leave it alone for a while.