Well, it is in my driveway now! Time to start taking things apart and replacing the rust... It will likely be slow going, but having it in at my house will make it a little easier to work on than my Chevelle.
On the trailer getting fuel:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_Haul01.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Haul01.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_Haul02.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Haul02.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_Haul03.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Haul03.jpg)
I think I finally realized what was holding me back on my Chevelle. I do not want there to be any imperfections in the sheetmetal on the Chevelle. So much so that I end up scrapping patch panels and second guessing my work. I am just not good enough at metalworking yet to do what I want to do with it.
The Blazer is different. I want it to be done right and done well, but it does not have to be absolutely perfect. With the availability of cheap patch panels for the Blazer (most around $20 for a partial patch), and the fact that a lot of the non-exterior panels are flat steel, the Blazer will be easier to "cut my teeth on".
Anyway, wish me luck!
TripleBlackBlazer
09-20-2008, 09:01 PM
You didn`t mention the roll cage. Is it welded to the frame? You got a free Hi-Lift with it!!!
swartlkk
09-20-2008, 09:14 PM
Roll cage is standard (fiberglass top and all). The jack looks like it has never been used and I am not sure if it was original...
myol blue4x4
09-20-2008, 10:46 PM
Looks like another great project. Hope all goes well with it! So what are your plans for this one Kyle? A restoration or like a resto-mod?
willjones
09-21-2008, 05:44 AM
How much did that beauty set you back?
jimbosv650
09-21-2008, 09:27 AM
Congrats It would be kind of mind blowing to see that thing with a four banger swapped in for fuel efficiency.
swartlkk
09-22-2008, 08:52 AM
Tried to respond to this last night, but seems the site is back to its crappy ways.
Anyway, I will be removing the interior this week to see how much work I have in front of me!
swartlkk
09-24-2008, 07:08 AM
Well, Monday night I got the whole back end stripped down and cleaned up as best I could with a vacuum. Someone decided to cut a hole in the bed to swap out the sending unit in the tank so I will need to get a patch panel for that (junkyard). I also got the passenger seat out and floor stripped down. The seats were not original and there are quite a few extra holes in the floor that I will need to weld up before I am all said and done, but all in all it is quite clean. Surface rust is all that is there.
Instead of putting carpet down inside, I think I am just going to throw down some bed liner on both sides of the floor (inside and underside) and call it a day. That way I will not have to do anything but prime and cover with bed liner!
I was able to partially identify the motor as well.
Casting code: 3970010 > 1969-1979 350CID V8 2 or 4 bolt, car, truck, vette
Stamping code: V0715CMB > V- Flint (engine), 07- July, 15- 15th day, CMB- 350, 4brl, 155HP/250lbft, F, LM1, Nova/Camaro
VIN code: 15N653303 > 1- Chevrolet, 5- 1975, N- Norwood, 653303- production sequence of vehicle VIN
Since it is a car engine, I am not sure if it will be a 4-bolt main. I may just build up my other engine and drop it in, then do something else with this one... Not sure yet.
Other bad news is that none of the seats are original. The back seat looks to have come from another Blazer so that is good, but the front seats are from something different entirely. Here are some pics of the progress from Monday night:
Last night I did a carb cleaning and general tune up. I did not mess with the plugs or wires, but I adjusted the timing and carb jets so it was running better. Started it this morning (38*F outside) and it sat up on the high idle for a few seconds. Tweaked the throttle and it dropped down to normal idle and stayed.
The carb is a Rochester QuadraJet with 7044206 and L3 (c) FA on the side. Comes back as a 1974 Federal Emissions Chevy Automatic transmission carb.
Now I need to get an HEI distributor for this thing. I will not mess around with points. For the time being, I will probably just steal the distributor from my Chevelle.
rriddle3
09-24-2008, 09:33 AM
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
I was able to partially identify the motor as well.
Casting code: 3970010 > 1969-1979 350CID V8 2 or 4 bolt, car, truck, vette
Stamping code: V0715CMB > V- Flint (engine), 07- July, 15- 15th day, CMB- 350, 4brl, 155HP/250lbft, F, LM1, Nova/Camaro
VIN code: 15N653303 > 1- Chevrolet, 5- 1975, N- Norwood, 653303- production sequence of vehicle VIN
Whoa, a 350 rated 155hp w/ 250lbft of torque! Engines sure have moved on from 30 years ago, huh? Might as well put a 4.3L in it! :D
swartlkk
09-24-2008, 09:37 AM
What you have to realize is that was not gross crank HP after 1972. This motor was actually rated at 185HP, but when tested with all the accessories, exhaust system, etc. The transition happened in 1972 where the industry went from SAE Gross to SAE Net measurement. General rule from a few articles I have found was that SAE Net was ~80% of SAE Gross which would put this engine in the 190HP range which lines up with the minimum HP figures I found for the block casting code.
Besides, it is not that right now, nor will it ever be again! And there is NO WAY that a 4.3L is finding its way between the frame rails of this truck!! LOL
Here is a quote I found about the LM1 motor in the 1974 Camaro:
California equipped Camaros came with a special "LM-1" 350 rated at 160 hp
It looks like this was the same motor carried over into 1975 after they dropped the Z28 trim level (and motors), being the highest performance motor you could purchase in the Camaro!
Here is another quote about HP levels in the mid 1970s:
power ratings were now net as opposed to the prior gross ratings. Net power ratings were taken from the engine crankshaft as before, but now all accessories had to be attached and operating, and all emissions equipment and a full production exhaust system had to be in place. These power-robbing additions — along with stringent new emissions laws — were instrumental in creating the vastly smaller power figures found in subsequent cars
rriddle3
09-24-2008, 10:59 AM
Yeah, I discovered the 80% rule awhile back. It puts some of the old muscle cars we drove back in the late '60s and early '70s into perspective for today. Even going by Net HP, the smog certs from the mid '70s onward really put the hurt on power up until just a few years back when techno started catching up.
Chevy Lover
09-25-2008, 02:23 AM
Congrats on the "new" truck Kyle.
The original jack was a crank style stored on the left inner fender under the hood.
swartlkk
09-25-2008, 06:42 AM
Thanks Rob! I have already done quite a bit of work on it, mainly stripping things down getting ready for some sheetmetal.
I knew the jack was not the factory jack, but it looks as though it was installed (and never used since) way back when. Some lithium grease and WD40 and it looks new again and works great!
Rob, do you know if the roll bar was a factory option? Earlier in this thread I meant to say that it looked factory, not necessarily that it was standard. This truck has 3 point seat belts in the front which I am not sure if they came like that from the factory... The only seat belts that match the SPI label are the outer ones in the back which are charcoal gray. The rest are all black.
BrianMichaels1
09-25-2008, 05:41 PM
Nice to see an old Blazer being saved instead of it biodegrading or being recycled into 15 Kias. Congratulations, nice!
Chevy Lover
09-27-2008, 12:45 AM
I'm not aware of a factory roll bar. Factory seat belts were simple lap belts.
swartlkk
09-27-2008, 01:09 PM
Only place that gave me the impression that the roll bar could have been factory was THIS (http://www.coloradok5.com/specs.shtml#1974).
New was the factory padded roll bar
And I have found references to the "family" roll bar. The picture below is from a 1973 dealer brochure. Does not mean that these were factory equipped, but they were available when new. The folks over at ColoradoK5 report that there were some of the 1st gens with factory rollbars that had the option shown on the SPI label in the glovebox. The same things were offered up through 1975 from what I have found.
Earlier last week I had found an eBay auction with original 1976 K5 Blazer front seats, complete. The seats looked decent and had the complete bases which is more than I can say for the seats that came with my Blazer. More on that on the ‘Interior’ page. I purchased the seats for $10 and $90 delivery charge. We had agreed to a $1/mile (one-way) charge and that I would meet the seller just south of Binghamton, NY to pick up the parts.
After talking with seller, I found that he also had a pair of doors, and a set of later model chrome mirrors. For an extra $100, I purchased these parts as well.
I was just reading your posts. I'm new to this forumn and you have already made a couple of responses to my posts about my 74 K5, thanks. Your Blazer looks like it is going to be a great project! I look forward to reading all your updates. What is your goal with it anyways? Just a restoration or are you planning on making it into a wheeler?
Thanks,
Israel
swartlkk
10-14-2008, 01:57 PM
My main focus right now is just building my competencies with metal and body work. If I keep it after I am done with the work that it needs, then I will have to evaluate what to do with it then. It already has a 3" BL and 33x12.5 BFGoodrich M/T TA tires on it, but those are leaving! Damn things are too loud on the road.
mysons95
10-15-2008, 12:44 AM
Nice truck.
Funny about HP back in those days.
In high school, I had a '76 camaro with a 305 V8. It was factory rated at 140HP.
Now I own a 2006 Impala with a 3.5 liter V6. It is rated at 211HP and could take that old camaro easily.
PABlazer
10-18-2008, 09:18 PM
i really wanna c what that beast looks like when u get it done.. i bet it will b a beaut
collin_k5_blazer
11-28-2008, 02:24 PM
Any news on the project?? How goes the restoration? did you use the doors that you picked up?
swartlkk
12-09-2008, 11:24 AM
Well, I did get a new rear window crank handle a week or so ago and got it installed. That was a pain in the butt as I ended up busting off some screws and bolts inside the tailgate. I just bid on a new interior tailgate handle which I will need to make up a new connecting rod for it.
I have also removed the rear tire carrier and straightened it up some. The next task will be removing the latch bracket on the tailgate to straighten it, then getting it all back in proper alignment. These parts will likely end up sand blasted and powder coated.
I have the old headers from my Chevelle that I will be attempting to fit on this truck along with a new exhaust system. Things are moving, just not as quickly as I would have liked.
Psychropod
12-29-2008, 02:22 PM
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
Since it is a car engine, I am not sure if it will be a 4-bolt main. I may just build up my other engine and drop it in, then do something else with this one... Not sure yet.
Kyle,
I know it was three months ago when you said this, but I can`t help but ask. If you decide to drop in the other engine, would you be willing to sell the existing one?
swartlkk
02-09-2009, 07:07 AM
Sorry for not keeping this updated.
As far as selling the old engine, that really depends on what it turns out to be. If it is another 4-bolt main block, probably not. I will just build that block up for something else. I do not know why, but a SB350 in a Chevette sounds like fun (I know where there is a rust free mid-80's Chevette)!!
Since it has been a good long while since I have updated this thread... I have purchased the exhaust system and a set of Hooker Comp headers. The headers are installed and the truck is back rolling around outside with open headers. I am in the process of modifying the exhaust system to fit properly (so much for a pre-bent exhaust system...).
The K5 is outside now while I insulate my newly heated garage. Once the insulation is done, it will be moved back in to finish up the exhaust. After that, it is going down to DMV to get a set of plates to get it on the road.
And just because:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_Open_Headers.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/?action=view¤t=Open_Headers.flv)
^^CRANK IT UP THEN CLICK^^
The smoke is from weak valve seals. I will be replacing them at some point. Not too worried about it at the moment as I think it is just bad since it really is not being run. Once I start driving it, I will keep an eye on oil usage and the plugs to see how bad it really is.
cr8390
02-09-2009, 06:47 PM
Sounds Great!!!
oisinirish
02-26-2009, 04:18 PM
How goes it? What little bit iv'e done to mine has me addicted. Already addicted to the mechanic part of it but the sheet metal stuff is new.
Cavalier z24
02-26-2009, 08:51 PM
Any new pics of the blazer? i am really interested in it, Btw nice sig
oisinirish
03-11-2009, 05:29 PM
Well???
swartlkk
03-11-2009, 06:58 PM
Well, the K5 is back in the parking lot as opposed to being parked along side the house... The weather has been quite warm so I did not want to make a muddy mess out of my side yard... I am continuously surprised at how easy this truck starts and how well it runs when cold. I am anxious to get it on the road, but there have been MANY other things that have had to take precedence and the weather has not helped matters. It has been nice getting into my Rainier in the nice warm garage! LOL
I picked up that 1990 Suburban yesterday after work so that is now in the shop now and started tearing it apart. All but the driver seat and carpet is out of the truck. Screwed up though and am now missing some skin on the tips of two fingers on my left hand... Stupid trim - that **** is sharp! I worked for about 3 hours last night before lacerating myself and calling it quits.
Tonight I am giving my fingers a chance to heal before going back at it tomorrow night. I want to get the whole front end torn down so that this weekend I can pull the engine and trans.
I basically have 2-3 weeks before the shop will be filled back up by my parent's fifth wheel travel trailer.
oisinirish
03-12-2009, 06:40 PM
Gotta love the roughing up the skin a little bit. All that bleeding takes some pressure off the spleen.
We oughta start a gallery of how we all manage to abuse ourselves while working on these trucks of ours.
swartlkk
03-12-2009, 10:53 PM
Yep, took the tips right off of two fingers.
Anyway, I spent around 2 hours this afternoon. Windshield, rear fixed windows, and all of the doors are removed from the 'burb. Most of the carpet is out. I still have some more trim to remove.
Saturday morning will be removing the fenders and potentially chopping the roof up into sections small enough for one person to handle. This will be in preparation for the trip to the junkyard.
swartlkk
03-16-2009, 07:59 AM
Well, Saturday was not as productive as I would have liked. The morning was a waste at the fire hall...:confused::mad:
I ended up out at the shop just a bit after noon. Here is the progress I have made since I pulled it in:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_17.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_17.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_14.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_14.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_16.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_16.jpg)
As you can see, the passenger side rear quarter is gone. Surprisingly enough, the only thing holding it on the truck was the D & C pillars at the roof! It was rotted completely away from the bed floor in back as well as from the rocker panel area on the side up front!
After removing the nuts on the bottom of the rear body mounts and all of the bolts around the perimeter of the floor, that came right now. So far, I have not had to get under this truck for anything!
The underside is quite rusted! As if I did not know...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_13.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_13.jpg)
It is still drivable and I am trying to keep it that way so that if necessary, I can move it out of the shop under its own power.
Anyway, I will likely be out there again tomorrow night to tear more stuff off.
kiwiblazer
03-16-2009, 04:27 PM
Talk about being a keen restorer! Wow, You're gonna be busy for a long time Kyle.
there's heaps of work in that thing.
I remember trying to restore a Fiat 500 (late '50's something model) back in '67 / '68 also with as much rust. Gave up 'cause of parts supplies & too much rust (I was living in South Africa at the time).
swartlkk
03-16-2009, 04:43 PM
I am in no way restoring the 'burb! It is getting parted and that is it. That thing is beyond gone.
oisinirish
03-18-2009, 05:43 PM
Well I guess I'll have to stop pestering you about your progress on this as I have been so busy I haven't hurt myself working on my own projects all week.
swartlkk
03-18-2009, 08:11 PM
I have cut as much off of the 'burb body as I am going to. Basically from the "B" pillar back is now gone. We only worked on it for about an hour tonight, but got the roof cut, the driver side quarter, and the driver front fender removed.
I snapped some pictures, but I am way too tired to go down to my desktop to get them off of the camera.
Cavalier z24
03-18-2009, 10:35 PM
that's a lot of hard work there kyle :)
swartlkk
03-19-2009, 10:09 AM
Here are two pictures taken last night:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_18.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_18.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/th_Suburban_19.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/Donor_90_Suburban/Suburban_19.jpg)
oisinirish
03-19-2009, 05:24 PM
You know you could put a flat bed on it and use it for hay rides.
swartlkk
03-19-2009, 05:43 PM
Being 2wd, it would likely get stuck! LOL
Tony H
03-20-2009, 03:06 PM
Have a good look at the Body mount brackets to the frame under the cab area.
Blazer or Pickup, it was a rust area.
K5's nice
swartlkk
03-20-2009, 08:29 PM
The underside of my K5 is very nice aside from the front cab mounts. Those will be replaced at some point.
1oldK5
03-20-2009, 11:19 PM
Where do you find the patch panels that are around $20 I might look into getting some for my blazer?
swartlkk
03-21-2009, 07:22 AM
It really depends on what you need, but LMCTruck.com has them and the smaller panels are $20 each.
1oldK5
03-21-2009, 09:20 AM
Oh I see. Driverside floorboard is starting to go and rear passenger quarter but they aren't too bad yet.
oisinirish
03-21-2009, 06:49 PM
They'll(LMC) send you a free catalog. Make sure if you order to watch for the oversized freight costs. If you know you're gonna need several of the oversized parts it's behooves you to order them at once as they only charge one oversize charge per order. Just my .02.
swartlkk
03-21-2009, 07:37 PM
I am well aware of that. This is not my first time ordering large items.
oisinirish
03-22-2009, 07:09 PM
I figured. I was just attempting to help out "1oldK5".
swartlkk
03-22-2009, 07:26 PM
Well, I have decided to leave the rest of the Suburban together for right now. I started to disconnect wiring under the hood and then thought better of it. When the time comes to swap the motor over to the K5, I think it would be best to park the two side by side and swap everything over (dash, A/C, motor, etc). This will allow me to compare things better than if they were separate.
Biggest problem I have run into now is that the thing will not turn over at the moment. I have to pull the starter the next time I am down there and test things out. It is not even clicking.
oisinirish
03-22-2009, 07:31 PM
Ground?
swartlkk
03-22-2009, 07:40 PM
Nope, everything else works fine. Fuel pump primes, radio comes on, hvac fan comes on, etc. It is either an ignition switch problem, or a starter problem and I am pretty sure it is a starter problem. I have two complete starters sitting on the bench that will bolt up and work. Plus the one from my Chevelle which would only need to be unbolted from the motor on the stand.
oisinirish
03-25-2009, 01:54 PM
Do you think the 3" lift was the minimum to fit those 33's under it. What kind of shape are they in?
swartlkk
03-25-2009, 01:57 PM
Yes, 3"BL is the minimum for clearing 33's. Get one wheel up into the wheelwell while turning and it might not be pretty. The fenders are already cut front and back.
swartlkk
03-28-2009, 08:41 PM
Well, the problem with the 'burb not starting was the ignition switch. I did not change anything. All it took was putting a vice grip on the ignition lock cylinder to allow for a bit more torque to be applied. Starts every time! I will need to either adjust it or install a new switch before I put that column over into my K5.
I cleaned up the shop today and put the 'burb upstairs in the barn. I have everything in the shop still that I was planning on selling. Now I need to get pictures taken.
swartlkk
04-25-2009, 08:23 PM
So the K5 is on the road. I got the mufflers put on Friday after taking the day off of work. A bit of welding and fabricating up some hangers. I still need to fit the tail pipes up, but I am still deciding on whether I want them to be removable so I do not bend them up when I'm screwing around.
I need to get it inspected sometime in the next 8 days, but I have been driving it around. I must say that it SUCKS not having A/C since it hit 90+ outside today, but the blazer did not skip a beat. I set the timing today, but think I advanced it too far. It starts a bit hard when hot now which is a clear sign of having it too far advanced.
I even took it up to my dad's shale pit for a bit of fun in the mud. The sides were nice to crawl on, but I could not all the way up and over them due to the sharp drop off at the top. I would high center for sure. I did play around on some of the other slopes up there and almost tore off the back up light on the bumper. Drug the hitch around quite a bit as well.
No pics though...
oisinirish
04-25-2009, 08:42 PM
You gotta pull that pintle hitch BEFORE you go muddin'. LOL. At least you were able to get some fun time in.
swartlkk
04-25-2009, 09:30 PM
There is one problem with that... Mine is welded to the frame!
swartlkk
05-05-2009, 05:51 PM
So I picked up a set of used quarter panels Saturday. $150 for the set. The driver side quarter is in VERY good condition. The passenger has some ripples, but nothing that cannot be massaged out.
The luck continues! Last Saturday I picked up a GM Corp 10-bolt front axle with 8-lug outers from an NP203 equipped 3/4 ton truck for $50! Everything spins over very well and it looks very good inside. Since this was originally on a full-time 4wd truck, there are no lock out hubs installed, rather a dust cap and a solid plug for connecting the hub to the axle. These will be nice to have once I do start wheeling this truck harder than I am now.
Here are some pictures:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_01.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_01.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_02.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_02.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_03.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_03.jpg)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_04.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_04.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_05.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_05.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_06.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_06.jpg)
The only thing I was really hoping for out of this was that it would already have 4.10 gears. But as can be seen in the photos below, the ring gear states 41 11 so they are 3.73 gears…
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_07.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_07.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_08.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_08.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_10B_8lug_09.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/10B_8lug_09.jpg)
So this axle has the same gear ratio as my truck currently. Now I have the 8-lug outers to go with the 14-bolt full floating rear axle!
For another $20, I picked up a set of 15×10 8-lug rims. They need some good cleaning, but they are not too shabby for $20:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_15x10_8lug_rims.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/15x10_8lug_rims.jpg)
I swapped out the old points style distributor for the HEI distributor that I temporarily robbed from my Chevelle. Everything went quite smooth with the swap and it starts and runs MUCH better now.
New problem from last weekend was that it would start VERY hard after it would sit for a little bit. I pulled the carb tonight to find that the well plugs in the bottom of the QuadraJet had started to leak again The secondary metering ports well plugs are sealled up very well, but it was the well plugs for the primary metering ports. This time I was determined to fix it permanently. A 10-32 tap and cutting down some 10-32 cap screws to only 0.1875" long should solve that problem once and for all!
oisinirish
06-14-2009, 06:59 PM
Show that qaud who's boss!...After my swap I've learned how "adjustable" they are. Get'r right!
swartlkk
07-11-2009, 06:37 PM
After that episode, I still had the hard start issue with a few more problems to boot. Seems that one of the little arms on the passenger side of the carb was mispositioned and jammed the secondaries shut. Not only that, but I was still having the hard start problem. I tried a ton of things. Noticed that the bracket for the vacuum advance dashpot was bent so I replaced that. While I was in the distributor, I removed and cleaned everything, installing new springs and bushings for the mechanical advance. I also removed the carb again to fix the other issues. This time I went through everything all over again. I found that the float valve had fallen off of the float, but was still in its proper location so it would have still worked. I took everything else apart and inspected it all over again. When I reinstalled the fuel inlet seat into the carb, I noticed that I was able to thread it down in deeper this time. Looking at it more closely, the small seal that had come in the kit had not properly fell down into the bore that it was supposed to go into and was not properly sealing off the fuel inlet when the float commanded. This allowed the fuel bowl to over flow basically all of the time. It was not a gusher, but just enough to flood the engine after it would sit for a little bit.
Now, it idles great, runs like a raped ape, and best of all, starts beautifully when hot!!
Also, just cause you guys cannot get enough of me finding cheap parts... I just found a 74 Jimmy that I'll be able to pick up for $150-$200. It is an L6 4x4 w/ an NP205 and 3-on-the-tree manual trans. The body is pretty much gone, but it still has a lot of good parts on it. Namely the running gear. D44 front. 12 bolt rear. Nice frame with no visible rot. I will scrap off about all of the sheet metal, strip the doors to make a new set for mine (need the glass, inside parts, and reinforcing brackets). The low back seats will be useful.
But my plans are really in the frame. I will get it stripped down, cleaned up and then detailed out before plumbing it for brakes and fuel, putting a set of 4" springs with 52" springs up front, and then hang my 3/4 ton running gear under it. I will then mock it up with one of my 350 blocks and a TH350 trans mated up to what I hope to be putting together as well --> NP203/NP205 doubler setup. New driveshafts and a crossover steering setup then it'll be ready for the body once that is completed!
That way I can continue to enjoy the K5 while I am doing the drivetrain updates. Have a complete rolling chassis that will be all detailed out to drop the freshened body down onto after it is all painted up nice nice!
TripleBlackBlazer
07-11-2009, 06:46 PM
Ohh
Emm
Gee
Very nice Kyle. Is this all on craigslist or where are you finding stuff?
swartlkk
07-11-2009, 06:50 PM
The 74 Jimmy I just happened to find when we went to a fire call. It was out back of the guys house stuffed into the weeds. I am picking it up for scrap value. I hope to salvage the top on it as well, but it is pretty racked.
swartlkk
07-26-2009, 09:19 PM
Well this weekend I tackled the job of pulling the dash apart to replace the bulbs for the gauges. While I was at it, I removed the clear bezel, wet sanded it to remove the discoloration, then polished it back up.
Surprisingly, now that I have the problem with my hands/forearms, my hands do not cramp up like they used to when working in tight areas or with repetitive motions. Good thing!
Put it all back together and found that the fuel gauge and temp gauge did not work. Removed it and traced out the lines. Found a bad connection to the temp gauge and fixed that with a short strand of copper and a little bit of solder. Removed all of the gauges and cleaned them while I was in there. Put it all back together and still nothing... Checked the fuses and the 3A cluster fuse was blown. A quick run to Autozone for some fuses (all I had was the mini blade fuses) and it was back to working great.
While I was at autozone I bought a new headlight pull rod/knob to replace the broken one that was there. So that was done.
I also picked up a new window crank handle for the passenger side. Put it on and noticed why the previous owner had removed the old one... The window track was broken making it almost impossible to roll the window up once it was down. I had another rear window track from a pickup that I was able to cut off the upper bracket and weld on the bracket for my cut down doors (73-75 full convertibles had a different upper bracket). Put that in and tried it again... The window still jumped off... A bit more inspection showed that the window regulator was bent up to the point that it was pulling the window out of its channels. One of the doors out in my shed had a good manual window regulator so I removed that and dropped it into my door then dropped the window back in. ALL IS WELL!! It was a bit of a hassle to get the window back on the regulator, but now that it is in, it worked as good as new!
Now that my roof is done, my next purchase will be that 74 Jimmy to cut up! The first thing I am planning on doing is skinning the doors to get the additional supports out of them. Then I will be converting my extra set of doors over to full convertible use.
89Blazin
08-09-2009, 10:06 PM
sounds like your having fun with this one. that's cool.
JoSHN
09-17-2009, 06:33 PM
Is that a factory spare tire swing arm on there, or is it aftermarket?
Either way, could you get me a close up picture of both the arm and the latch system?
I'm trying to either find a new arm, Or I'll be fabricating my own, so I need a good idea how to fix the latch.
Any help would be great.
swartlkk
09-26-2009, 05:36 PM
None of the tire carrier stuff is on the truck anymore and is in storage. It isn't factory though. There is half a sticker from the manufacturer on one of the pieces IIRC, but I don't remember what it read.
The K5 is running GREAT! Only gets around 9MPG, but with a 350, th350, 203, 3.73's and 33x12.5 tires, I am not complaining. I was down checking my tree stands this morning. Did a few creek crossings with it with no trouble at all. Forgot the camera at home though...
swartlkk
09-28-2009, 10:01 AM
Changed the oil yesterday. All went fairly well except for the oil out of the filter that had the consistency of cold maple syrup. NICE! Well... Not so much...
I flushed out the crank case with some fresh oil, installed the drain plug, installed a new filter, and filled it up. Started it up and the oil pressure rose up to around 45psi with a cold engine. Took my kids for a spin and it dropped to around 15 while cruising down the road at probably 2200RPM. Hot idle, stopped in gear is down around 7psi. Hot idle in park is about 10psi.
There are no noises (lifter tap, etc) to warn of the pressure being too low so I currently am going on the assumption that it is ok and that the factory gauge is just not that accurate. Heck, it only has 6 lines on it with only the last one being marked at 60psi. The other lines are 0, 15, 30, and 45... I have a 3 gauge cluster that I have been toying with installing. It came out of my Chevelle and has a mechanical oil pressure, mechanical temperature, and a volt gauge. I could steal the tachometer out of my Chevelle as well.
Since I have another motor, I am not too worried about it. If this one dies, it will just step up the time table on my 90 TBI motor swap which is currently scheduled to start in the spring.
swartlkk
10-01-2009, 07:46 PM
Found a replacement tailgate for my truck. I'll probably be going to take a look at it this weekend. Seller is asking $75 for the shell and glass. I'm hoping for a little lower than that.
swartlkk
10-21-2009, 07:24 PM
Paid $50 for the rust free tailgate a few weekends ago. The seller also threw in a new replacement passenger side floor pan, a front driveshaft, and a bunch of miscellaneous trim pieces that I didn't even know I needed or was missing!
The K5 handled the 2 hour round trip without incident. However, the temperature was creeping up on me on the drive home. That has prompted a full cooling system check over. Since a new water pump is only $30, that's getting tossed on. I'll be cleaning the radiator and putting everything back together this weekend.
This afternoon, I took another drive to Rochester for some more Craigslist finds. $35 for a good TBI fuel tank with pump & sending unit. And $35 for a never installed, 20 year old Bestop swing arm spare tire carrier.
The tire carrier is identical to the one that I have on the truck now, but its new and not bent!
The fuel tank is what I believe to be the last link in the TBI conversion I am undertaking in the spring! Things are coming together!
ABN31B
10-21-2009, 07:49 PM
Congrats on the finds! i have only just started to dabble with 'the list' and I have found it quite addictive...
Have any plans to get any of that stuff on? (other than cooling systems) or are you still stock piling for one big push?
swartlkk
10-21-2009, 08:09 PM
I am debating on doing some of the sheetmetal work over the winter, but once the top comes off, it is garage ridden for awhile... Plus, my wife and I are saving up for our vacation to Grand Caymen in January. These deals so far have been too good to pass up so far. The sheetmetal for the floors and rockers is going to be a bit of $$ though.
The plan for the spring is to do the TBI, A/C, wiring harness, and doors swap from my donor 'burb. Provided I can get the parts for the cross over steering setup by then, I'll do that at the same time. That'll be in prep for a 4" suspension lift using 52" springs up front (they'll either be the springs from the back of the 'burb or from the back of the '74 Jimmy I'm going to pick up) and a shackle flip in the rear.
ABN31B
10-21-2009, 09:08 PM
Sounds like fun. One day I aspire to weld competently weld *run a bead at least...* and I believe that you will find the itch to get in there and do a little over the winter :p
Your patience at building up the needed parts and setting goals is commendable. i would be half ass slapping stuff on as soon as I got it. I can't wait to see this unveiled.
91chevywt
10-21-2009, 09:55 PM
Sounds like you've been finding some good deals! Will that Jimmy be able to provide some of that more expensive sheet metal like for the floors?
swartlkk
10-22-2009, 08:44 AM
The body on the Jimmy is SHOT! I am buying it for the frame and drivetrain primarily. There are some misc brackets, fasteners, & trim that will be kept and some other stuff that I'll likely sell after I'm done, but other than that, the body will be scrapped. As it stands right now, I don't think I'll even need a torch to take it apart! It is rusted up real bad.
The Jimmy is a L6 engine with SM465/NP205 combo. D44 front and 12-bolt rear. It is a Sierra trim level with all stainless trim plates inside that are still in great shape. I am going to try to salvage the top which has some damage at the back but otherwise looks fairly good. The dash has a tach, but is pretty busted up. I am going to try to salvage that as well.
I do not have the Jimmy in my possession yet, but it is not going anywhere ATM.
And I already have the itch to get it in the garage. The biggest problem is I really enjoy driving the truck. Once the top comes off, that really ends... Well, unless I want to dress like an Eskimo and drive around topless during the winter! LMAO
Sisk
10-22-2009, 09:02 AM
Ok I must have misse something lol...are there pics of this Jimmy? I know its not in your possession yet, but did you happen to get any pics?
I took a quick look back through the thread but didn't see anything...
swartlkk
10-22-2009, 09:19 AM
I think I have some on my cell phone. It is currently surrounded by weeds taller than the truck and a few trees. It'll take a chainsaw and a flat bed to get it to my place.
*EDIT* Just looked and I only have pictures of the SFI label in the glove box. No pictures of the truck. Its beat though!
89Blazin
10-24-2009, 09:07 AM
Right on!! i hear that , i got a full size, and feel you completely! mine is 89' that has been tweaked a little, with a rebuilt top end and vortec heads (350 type), TBI spacer, 670 cfm TBI and magnaflow exhaust. wouldn't trade it for ANYTHING! with the 37"x13"x15 shoes and the 6" suspension lift, i would dare to compare to any small blazer off road. even if it's faster, i'll stick to the full size regardless. LOL...no offense, just what i dig,...keep it goin man, love seeing what you've done so far. has helped my train of thought in building, thanks!
tom
chevyman09
10-29-2009, 03:18 PM
subscribed
Biohazed
10-29-2009, 06:29 PM
very cool, wanna see pics of the Parts trucks, the Full Size Blazer is def a dying breed
swartlkk
10-29-2009, 08:53 PM
I haven't picked up the 74 Jimmy parts truck yet. Maybe in the next week or so. The guy that has it sitting in his woods is delaying things a bit. I am not really sure why... I am offering him more than it is worth as scrap short steel.
swartlkk
11-16-2009, 11:01 AM
The cooling system service is complete. The temperature stays more consistent now, but I definitely need to get the shroud fixed. The 3" BL has put the stock fan way out of alignment in relation to the shroud. I think I am just going to try and find a set of electric fans and wire them up to a thermostatic switch.
Just filled up the fuel tank on this thing for the first time since September (30 gallon tank). $70 later... DAMN! It is fun though! Works out to 8.5 miles per US gallon. Not too bad for a 30+ year old truck running on 33x12.5 tires.
swartlkk
02-06-2010, 12:17 PM
Tailgate #2 is in the garage right now. I just picked it up for $60. Power window with all the internals which is a lot better than the other tailgate I picked up for $50 back in October. That one was only the glass and the tailgate. No internals at all. Still GM sheetmetal though.
Anyway, pics of the new tailgate:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_CMP_power_tailgate_01.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/CMP_power_tailgate_01.jpg)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/th_CMP_power_tailgate_02.jpg (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/1974%20K5%20Blazer/CMP_power_tailgate_02.jpg)
Spectreblazer
02-06-2010, 09:57 PM
looking good, now you just gotta find the time to put it all together
swartlkk
02-08-2010, 10:39 AM
Figured I would throw this into my build thread and just link to it from the "how much do you have into your Blazer" thread.
Lets see if I can get this right:
'74 K5 Blazer driver - $500
High back seats - $100
Set of GM doors - $100
Hooker headers - $125
Hooker dual exhaust kit - $160
1990 2wd 'Burb parts truck - $250 (dash swap, engine swap, wiring swap, etc)
GM full rear quarters - $150 (cut off of a mid-80's truck including inner/outer wheel wells & inner fender)
14-bolt full floater from a '73 3/4 ton truck - $FREE!! (stowed it in a hedge row 12+ years ago)
3/4 ton 10-bolt front axle - $30 (will take off the spindles on out to get 8-lugs on my D44)
8-lug 15x10 rims - $20 for the set
Used fuel tank for an injected truck including pump & sending unit - $35
New, never installed swing arm rear tire carrier - $35
Rust free tailgate - $50 (gutted)
Cooling system service - $50
Oil change - $30
Rust free complete power tailgate - $60 (working power window ready to bolt on as is)
So the running total right now is sitting at around $1700. It will take around $150 worth of new sheetmetal to fix up the rockers and floors in the front, but other than that, I have everything else that I need (aside from a D60) to finish this.
I will be picking up a '74 Jimmy as another parts truck in the spring for $150-$200 depending on the current owner. This will give me the parts to convert the doors from the 'Burb over to full convertible use. Not to mention all of the stainless trim that is currently in the Jimmy! It will also give me another frame and top to work with while I am out enjoying my K5!
My plans are to refurb the frame from the Jimmy, mount the 1ton stuff under it, possibly do the 52" spring swap in the front get the steeing box from the 'burb setup on it and cross-over steering in place. Start working on the doubler setup (NP205 from the Jimmy with my spare NP203 range box). Fix up and paint the top to match the final body color I'm going for (Catalina Blue was the original color of the truck and I'm going back to it). Then when the time comes, just swap the body over onto the "new" frame.
So, not including my time, taking a rough estimate for paint supplies to be in the neighborhood of $1000 (I won't pay for paint labor either - gotta love friends with booths), allowing $500 for the transfer case stuff I want to do, $1000 for rims/tires when the time comes, and adding in another $1800 for scope drift, the total projected cost should be right around $6000 for a finished truck. And that should be aiming high!
Now if I could only get time to mess with it! LOL I gotta stop fixing things for other people!
Spectreblazer
02-08-2010, 06:08 PM
x2 on finding time. dang people want you to work on their stuff when you want to work on yours.lol
do those 1 tons bolt right up, im looking at doing a 3/4 ton swap because i know those will bolt right up if i can get a good deal on a set.
swartlkk
02-08-2010, 08:36 PM
If you find a 14BFF from a 3/4 ton, the spring perches will be set at 42.5" which will bolt right in under a 1/2 ton. There is no benefit to getting a 3/4 ton front end as it will be the same as your current axle just with 8-lug outers so you don't gain strength. I'll be swapping over the 8-lug spindles from a 3/4 ton front axle onto my D44 initially unless I can find a D60 between now and then.
But lets keep this about my truck. :icon_wink:
Spectreblazer
02-08-2010, 08:47 PM
yea no problem, sorry to get off topic kyle, just curious.
Sadchevy
03-13-2010, 12:12 PM
sounds like you are gonna have a nice build when done. i am currently in the process of starting full rebuild of my 89 burb. your burb donor doesnt happen the have a good factory limo tinted rear passenger quarter window by chance ?
wlorton
03-13-2010, 12:20 PM
Actually just saw this thread.... Looks like its a build done right!
swartlkk
03-13-2010, 01:09 PM
sounds like you are gonna have a nice build when done. i am currently in the process of starting full rebuild of my 89 burb. your burb donor doesnt happen the have a good factory limo tinted rear passenger quarter window by chance ?
The rear side windows, sure does. I'm currently looking at possibly cutting them down to fit in my removable top to get in glass tint for nothing... You could potentially change my mind. :icon_wink: Shipping would be a bear though.:icon_shrug:
Sadchevy
03-13-2010, 04:33 PM
actually they are laminated glass so cutting them down would be a fairly easy job. any good glass shop should be able to do it. yeah shipping would be a bear and i can find a donor closer to home .