Okay so my 88 Blazer is really a great off-road ride. Im planning on beefing up the drive train and getting a 14 Bolt for the rear and a Dana 60 for the front, and while Im there do a gear change for the bigger tires. Im also a 16 year old kid whos favorite store is the local junk yard. So needless to say, i need to find a Dana 60 and identify it. If anyone has any knowledge to share, thatd be great. Im also planning on installing lockers in the front and rear. If you have advice for me, thatd be great. I was also wondering if they made the original full-size Blazer with a stock Dana 60 and 14 Bolt? If so, a complete change of vehicle might be a bit easier...before I start major modifications.

Quick Google search resulted in this:
http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/axle_tech.htm

There are many, MANY more than just this one, but this had quite a bit of information in it. Click on the link below for the Google search for "How to identify a Dana 60?"
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=How+to+identify+a+Dana+60%3F&btnG=Google+Search

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ has alot of other information you may be interested in as well.

Good luck and make sure to post back with pics of the progress and completed project!

i can tell u that unless its for offroad only u dont want a true locker in the front. its very hard on drive line parts. if u can find one the old militry trucks (77 78 ) had 1 1/4 ton drive train so maby a swap to that would be strong enuf? wouth trying anyway

Yeah, I was going to add that to my post, but you beat me to it, LOL.

I would definitely put something that can be disengaged, like either an air locker or e-locker, for the severe off-road situations when max traction is needed, but able to be unlocked for normal road driving.

Thanks a lot, those sites were very helpful. I planned on going with an ARB Air Locker, my dad said a Detroit Locker would be good but I told him id rather go with an ARB. The truck still needs body work and paint but ill post pics soon enough. Hopfully ill get it out on the trails soon and take some there.

http://www.onandoffroad4wheeldrive.com/axle_pics.htm

http://www.coloradok5.com/tech.shtml

If your running a fullsize Blazer, the second link is for you. It is all about the K5. The first link is pics and general info on the various axles out there.

If your serious about the swap and have a S10-Blazer. Check out the below site. Take a look at the tech section. They have several write ups on swapping a solid axle under a S10.
http://www.s10extremist.org/forums/

Pirate4x4 is for extreme rock crawling. Granted they have a lot of tech info. However they don't really care about body damage, or streetability. It is a hard core rock crawling site. If you ever get to see some of the off-road rock crawling competitions, the drivers/owners belong to that site. A lot of guys that do the other 4x4 truck competitions also belong to that site, like Petersons Ultimate Adventure, the Tough Truck Competition, Top Shop, etc.

We want pics and progress updates.

Thanks for such an overwhelming reply, i do have a full size blazer, not an S-10. Is it a k-5 or a v-10. Auto Zone insists its called a V-10 (350 5.7l V-8) but I mostly hear that I have a k-5. Are these different? So I have a solid axle, so I dont need to do a conversion like if it was the S-10. I was also wondering, could I put a "full time" locker in the front axle? Like a detriot locker perhaps. This would save me some cash. When its on the street its never in 4WD and if it is, its snowy conditions. If I dont lock the hubs, i wouldnt imagine this being a problem. If I have to install an air locker, then thats fine, but thats just more time it would take to save the cash. I plan on doing a LOT of rock crawling and trail riding in this truck so Pirate 4x4 is pretty helpful. Hopfully during college ill be able to build my own rock crawler and enter into comps. Im going to make a tripod site now and put my photos on there. Ill post the link back very shortly after this.

okay well i got 7 old pics for you all. Ill go out and take some new ones as soon as my battery is charged. You can find them at http://rhs24.tripod.com/88_blazer/index.album These pics are old, from about last august. Since then ive done a little bit of work....well as much as i could afford. I start work this week and Ill be working 2, possibly 3 jobs, this summer. So after summers over I will have plenty of cash to fix it up a bit.

Here a list of things Ive done to it though:

Completely Fixed Dash
Mounted and Wired Tachometer
Passanger Side Fender and Inner Fender-Well replaced
"New" Tires, $75 for 4 35inch X-Terrains to pass inspection
Fixed E-Brake
Taken off 3 inch body lift, installed 1 inch bushings for a slight raise
New Bilstein 5100 Shocks (rides MUCH better)
Pulled a "new" steering box from junkyard, yet to be installed
Bought a new steering stabilizer today, boot kit comes tomorrow then I can put it on.

After I get some cash I can get the ugly brown paint off and im planning on painting it green. A friends doing the job cheap so I dont have to feel bad after a day on the trails. Ill learn to fabricate a lot, as the cash isnt really there to do much with it. Ive got my own Mig Welder and my dads fairly handy so making a rear bumper/roof rack/roll cage shouldnt be too hard.

Sounds like a plan, and the truck looks great. I noticed the 3" body lift, and its removal, and the dash is a huge improvement. Nice job so far.

When you do the steering box, reinforce the frame where the box attaches to it. This is a common area of frame failure. There are kits avialable to fix it, however if you or your dad can weld? Weld on some steel to strenghten the frame. Check out the kits and mock them for your fix.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Looks like your going to have a decent wheeler when your done with it.

I missed the year of your truck? Is it fuel injected?
Since yours is already solid axle, you will need to find a Dana60 from a Chevy donor, most liekly donor will be a 1ton. Do research into cross over sterring, and then do the cross over steering. Those sites will have all the info you need, and more then likely in a tech article, what your doing is pretty common. That Dana60 isn't going to be cheap!!!!

Yes you can install a locker in the front axle and unlock the hubs. It will cuase the front axle to turn, however the unlocked hubs will allow the tires to spin free of the axle and won't/shouldn't scuff around turns. You might burn a tad more gas, but if your engine isn't fuel injected you will never notice it. Your gas mileage already sucks, and that locker won't make that much of a difference. The best option is the ARB locker, however it adds some cost to that already expensive axle. Depending on tire size, I would also seriously look into upgrading your outer axle stub shafts. Also should find a tech article or two on that upgrade. Pirate has an awesome tech section.

They even have tech info on your cage and what materials to use. I am not going to get into the whole tube verse pipe issue. Realize that whatever you use, make it strong enough for a step above how you normally wheel. That adds a margin of safety, and safety is one area you shouldn't skimp. Your life and that of your passengers may depend on it. Which material you use is entirely up to you. I would avoid pvc pipe though. I also see nothing wrong with a cage made from pipe, provided it is built properly.

Wow that was a lot. Thanks. What exactly are the benefits of cross over steering? Ive checked the steering box kits out and I can easily machine that. My dad knows how to weld and Im learning so that wouldnt be too hard at all.

My truck is an 88' and it is fuel injected, I have a throttle body.

The Dana 60 and 14 Bolt upgrade is gonna cost me quite a bit. It prolly wont happen until next summer when the cash is there. I plan on spending around 2k for the whole deal, new wheels, the axles, lockers, etc. It will probably end up costing nearly 2.5k but ill end up breaking the 10 bolts on there anyways.

Im still confused about the front axle issue. If the truck normally drives in 2WD mode then my gas mileage would be no different if the front had a locker or not, or do I not know somthing? Either way Ive decided to go with an ARB Air Locker so I can disengage it in tactical spots where I need manueverability to clear objects.

Im looking through junk yards hoping to find an "off-roader" that has a roll bar/cage in it. I really cant afford to make one right now with the costs of steel. If I find a roll bar/cage in a truck ill make sure its free from rust and then post an image to see if its solid. The last thing I want is to roll my truck and then have a cage failure.

So I ramble a bit and I wanted to sum up some of my questions..
What are the benefits of cross over steering?
If 4WD isnt engaged, locking the front axle without locking the hubs shouldnt cause a drop in MPG should it?

I installed a new steering stabilizer the other day, the truck doesnt wander as much but there is still a noticeable problem in the steering. I can turn the sterring wheel a good 2-3 inches before I get any tire movement at all. This isnt normal on older trucks like this is it??

Well thanks for the overwhelming response from everyone. The sites you've provided have been a plethora of information and its really helped me a lot.

ORIGINAL: LeigerReign

So I ramble a bit and I wanted to sum up some of my questions..
What are the benefits of cross over steering?
If 4WD isnt engaged, locking the front axle without locking the hubs shouldnt cause a drop in MPG should it?

I installed a new steering stabilizer the other day, the truck doesnt wander as much but there is still a noticeable problem in the steering. I can turn the sterring wheel a good 2-3 inches before I get any tire movement at all. This isnt normal on older trucks like this is it??

Well thanks for the overwhelming response from everyone. The sites you've provided have been a plethora of information and its really helped me a lot.

When you swap in a new front axle most guys will also move the axle from above the springs to below the springs. This gives you more ground clearance. When you do that, the steering linkage now hits the springs or binds up when flexing. To eliminate that problem the fix is cross over steering. In other words, your moving the steering to over the springs, on top of the springs. Thats the over part, the cross part is moveing the linkage to the steering box from the drivers side to the passengers side. This change gives you better steering angles and you wont get bumpster. Search for that term on the web. Since your going with a Chevy D60 make sure it has flat top knuckles. With the flat top knuckles you get a kit to bolt on the cross over steering arms. You may have to have the holes drilled and tapped int eh knuckle, but that will be cheaper then buying a new knuckle. There are a lot of new terms in here. Keep reading on Pirate and K5 web sites. You'll see pics and soon understand what I am talking about.

As for your steering problem, it could one of any number of things or it could be just one thing. The best thing to do is take your truck into an aligment shop and get a free front end inspection. Ask to have the tech show you the problem and while they are showing you, ask questions until you understand. Then decline the work at the moment and come back here and post up what they found out. Most estimates are good for 30 days, ask. Most places understand not everybody has the money and they usually come back when they do. Nor do they care if you fix it on your own. You will usually retunr to them for something else, like the alignment after the parts have been replaced. Its all about keeping customers, repeat business is much easier to maintain then seeking out new customers.

okay so the dad says cross over steering is a go when we install the D60. Ive read tons of stuff on Pirate and K-5. There really is so much information out there its hard to comprehend it all. I keep having to go outside and look at the parts on my truck for reference. The steering box is going to be replaced anyways, my dad wants to do that. I told him it would be a good idea to reinforce the frame and he told me if I made it, he would help me weld it on. After I get the new box in, ill update you and let you know if the problem goes away. If not ill have the front end inspected and follow your advice. Thanks for all the help thus far.

Your welcome. Take some pics of teh repiar and new steering box. Everytime I do a project I take pics and create a thread for it. That way others can see what I am doing, and ofer up tips, or ask questions. I think I have one on this site about rebuilding a 4L60E tranny. Youd have to search for it to find it.