Feel free to add some that I may miss here. We all know them well.



* Seatback lever broken drivers side for sure, passenger side also if you ever gave someone a ride.

* Top of steering wheel losing rubberized coating.

* Power mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

* Drivers seat cloth wearing fast at point between seat and backrest

* Angle of windshield causes abnormal sandblasting "fun in the Sun"

* Doors do not seem to close tight and rattle over bumpy roads.

* HEADLIGHTS not bright enough on 95-97 models

* Rear hatch latch breaks too easily

* Requires front brakes more than any other vehicles ever owned

* Gas tanks start leaking from the top after just a few years so you can't "fill-er up" without odor

* Come with Delco radios that have a shelf life of 3-5 years

* Spark plugs located whereas you need David Blaine to help you change middle drivers side.

But go figure that I am on my 3rd Blazer in a row.

The top of the steering whell losing the coating sucks..... mine was like that when I bought it. .

i guess i have been lucky.....i have none of those problems yet :)....besides the spark plugs....

Ditto...spark plugs is my only issue. That, and window motors die quickly.

My 1997 has 126,000+ and It's on it's 3rd set of front brake pads...which were just installed so that's about 60,000 miles per set...which is great in my opinion. Also the rear shoes are still original...but I will FINALLY be changing them on my next oil change. I have replaced the left front door hinge pins/bushings once. Other than that I have none of these "quirks". Oh yea the spark plug thing......Try using a CHEAP spark plug socket with a 3/4" hex on the end of it....you can break iy loose with a 3/4" wrench and spin it out by hand and it's done in a few minutes!!

Don't forget that with power locks, sooner or later one of the doors will refuse to open! (Mine is passenger side rear) Does make it fun to try and watch the kiddies open it when they forget....

ORIGINAL: Blasir

* Drivers seat cloth wearing fast at point between seat and backrest

* Doors do not seem to close tight and rattle over bumpy roads.

* Come with Delco radios that have a shelf life of 3-5 years



My doors squeak because the plastic of the window controls rubs against the rubber and vinyl parts of the door.

I've had to take my truck to the dealer 4 times just for the radio. (The first time was to get it ordered, the sec. time to get it installed, third to get it reordered, and the fourth to get that one installed. (In a span of like a month and a half)[:@]

Anyone else have trouble with their gas guage fluxuating? That happened around 90K. Alternator went out around 80K, fron wheel bearings and ball joints around 60K, fuel pump just before 100K, 4x4 went out around 75K.

oooh yeah.....my passenger side front auto unlock just died....it moves it to almost unlocked....however at least it does lock it.....(I never take passengers) I think you covered most of the big stuff.....rotars and cv joints..replaced my radio with an aftermarket soon after I got my blazer.....


oh oh wait!!! I have one....the hood release!!! the hood release brakes so you keep a pair od pliers in it for the times you need to open the hood.....and you know what's even funnier...I oil change guy never asked how to get my hood open......(he must own a blazer too!!!!)

Ha! That's funny cause when I was on the used car lot buying my blazer I went to pull the hood release to check out the engine and the cable snapped right there on the lot. You should have seen the look on the salesman's face. They obviously fixed it for me before I picked it up.

ha ha ha...yep that's hoe it happened with me....must have opened the hood a lot of times...went to pull it...pop.....but the one good thing..is they break off with just enough of a piece to pull on it with a pair of pliers!!

Oh, I forgot that mine also has a sticky speedometer...it likes to sit on a speed for a while, then WHAM all of the sudden get unstuck and tell me what speed I'm REALLY going. :D

I found that on the sparkplugs, at least on the middle one that is almost impossible to get to, that I just bought a cheapie spark plug socket and slapped it on the bench grinder, took off about 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch and it works perfect.

1998 4WDR 4 Door Blazer with 208K Miles.

Lets see.. where do I start... here's my list of "common" problems
Passenger seat adjustment lever snapped off..
Windsheild Wiper control "solder" problem (fixed myself)
Driver side door hinge bushings (had a body shop fix it for $100)
2 set of Front Wheel Hub/Bearings (Approx $500/HubX 4 = $2K)
Upper and Lowerball joints and Tie Rod Ends (Replaced Twice)
Drivers Side Electric Window Moter (just stopped working).
Remote Mirror Switch (Damaged from dripping water in window).
Irratic gas gauge (but fuel pump is still working).
But... after 208,000 miles, the Exhaust system is still in good condition (even in Massachusetts weather). I expect to make it through the winter with it.

The really sad part about all this is... I still like the vehicle (but I probally wont ever buy another... except for parts!)

ive found out recently if you remove the front tires doing the spark plugs is so much easier when going through the wheel well. alot easier than fighting with the steering shaft and brake lines

is there anything you can do for the headlight not being bright enought. if just replace the blub will it get brighter?

I also went at it through the wheel well, I tried to pull the steering knuckle, but there is a stupid plastic cap that covers the entire thing that I couldn't figure out how to remove, so I jacked her up, and it took me more time to find the wrench that it did to get them out....
problems I have had so far...only owned it for a couple of weeks now..

1.passenger side window motor is pretty much OOC,
2.hood latch cable works, but I have to jerk it pretty hard, then have to pound on the hood to get it to pop up
3. Vacuum Lines, had to replace all of them
4.the rear glass popper on the keyless entry remote only works sometimes

I can't really complain too much about the plugs, I own a 1994 Camaro Z28 and it is near impossible to get to the plugs on that sucker...take the blazer's plugs, and multiply the difficulty factor by about 5. took me about 6 hrs to do all 8...and that was the fastest I have ever done them. The first time, I was renting a stall at an auto shop, and I had to keep the car there overnight because I couldn't get one of the plugs back in.

Im sure that I will be replacing alot of parts in the future, just the same as I did with my camaro.

Only thing I have had problems with is the #3 middle plug. That is the biggest pain to get out...

Hmm lets see:

CRAPPY DEXCOOL THAT ROTS YOUR SYSTEM OUT (main issue)

1) early signs of FUEL PUMP failure (over heats and quits working when 1/4 tank or less) due to pump is cooled by gas and they fail to tell you to keep it above 1/4 or more so that the pump wont fall under early failure due to OVERHEATING

2) FOB or power lock fails with no warning

3) Power locks only work on one or two doors

4) Early failure of INTAKE gasket

5) Excessive build up of Carbon

6) Defective REMOTE OIL-FILTER LOCATOR

7) No warning BALL JOINT seperation

8) P.O.S. delco radios and limited addon BOSS systems

9) Problematic Power Seats

10) Cheap Hinge Pin sets (cheapBrass bushings)from MFG (replacements are around $12 per door for good ones)

11) ODBII system that requires a $80 plus reader that only gives general issue codes over Detailed direct Like the $200 code reader does.
(ODBI was better due to you could just Jump A & B and get your codes over having to use a scan tool specific for the same codes)

With all the reading I have done with both general forums and from ASE cert. mechanics. I could go on for days. But yea, the MFG had to ensure job stability with these issues for their mechanics (mainly dealership shops). If not for theextensive list of TBS it would make it so these would rarely ever have to go into the shop. These are not like the Pre 80's Blazers that keep running forever as long as you take care of the rot issues on the sheet metal.
Heck my 74 W200 has less issues, but then again that was when they were built toLAST over built to RECYCLE

ha

1. hood release wont open hood unless usmones pushing down on it
2. it smokes white everytime i start it
3. rear window doesnt stay open always falls on my head when im diggin around
4. when i push the cigarette lighter in my headlights go off
5. antifreeze leak
6. tranny's almost dead
7. windows take 5 minutes to open
8. wheel wells rusted through...but thats no biggy i could care less
9. ABS is out and i dont think i have any pads left in the front squeks like hell

im takin it to a friends tomaro and leavin it there for a week, hes gonna fix everything flush and change fluids/filters/and wutever else needs to be fixed and seafoam it for me

I'm glad I own old full size Blazers!!
Once the rust is removed, they're great...........................where's the next gas station?....lol

for the hood to open,after pullingthe releasetry pulling up on the right hand side of the hood, it's what works for me.

front hub and bearings
ball joints twice on one side, once on the other (so far)
rear wiper motor
oil cooler lines
idler arm (twice)
water pump
radiator cap
alloy wheels leak
fuel guage
seat recliner handles
alternator
brakes/rotors
front door hinge pins/bushings
cargo area trim panel/tool storage cover kept falling off
front washer pump sometimes doesn't work
hood latch used to stick
intake gaskets
rear window squeek
monthly payments (almost done)

the Spark plugs were easy to change, 4.3 4x4, dont have to remove the wheel or sterring column to get at em.


The back glass is annoying as hell, it wont stop squeeking. oh yeah the front brakes suck on the blazer, I replace my pads every 7-8 months and rotora every year to year and a half.

The rear defroster wires always snap off, the cowl panel rattles, and last but not least you gotta strip the damn dash to replace any of the switches in it.

I actually dont mind taking the dash off. I have had to do it so many times to replace my radio and stuff so it takes me about 5 minutes. Just a few screws holding it all in. Its that #3 spark plug that still is ticking me off.

ORIGINAL: nofear17bmx

I actually dont mind taking the dash off. I have had to do it so many times to replace my radio and stuff so it takes me about 5 minutes. Just a few screws holding it all in. Its that #3 spark plug that still is ticking me off.


LIFT THE FRONT END UP AND TURN THE WHEELS, sorry caps, it works everytime, I know if i can do it at stock height with 30's on it, it should be easy for the rest, the trick is to use a u joint extension and a wobbler socket, it comes out easier then number 4 does on the passenger side.


I am gonna order a chiltons for the 1st gen s-10, haynes doesnt show me anything and I need to find out why my vents dont work.

[:@]Forgot about that back glass squeek.

Well, I've had my 99 for about a week now and I'm all ready starting my list...

Passenger seat handle is broken
High pitched squeaking in the dash when I hit bumps-can't find it though
One of the connections for my privacy shade holder (the part that covers the jack in the cargo area) broke, so I listen to that vibrate and squeak
Rear door speakers don't work
Passenger side visor's mirror cover is broken, so it falls everytime my fiance flips it down to primp herself
Those stupid GM lug nut caps...missing 3 so far


But no matter what, I still love it!!

I hate the way there's no room in the cargo area even though it looks like there should be plenty of room.

Broken seat recline levers are annoying.

Changing the fuel pump and having to drop the fuel tank is annoying.

The torx head screws on the distributor cap are annoying because the only tool I have for torx fasteners is one of those chintzy screwdrivers with changeable bits but the handle is too long to fit so I had to use a 1/4" socket and a short extension with the bit inside the socket and the bit kept falling out of the socket. Who'se idea was that anyway, you'll strip the plastic the screw threads intolong before you'd strip the head of a phillips or even a socket head cap screw, torx was overkill for the sake of overkill in this application.

The oil cooler lines leak at the oil cooler and autoparts stores don't seem to have the right size o-ring to fix it.

My blazer is a '99 4dr, it's got lots of blind spots, the headrests in the front seem to be the biggest cause.

I have a rattle that seems to come from the exhaust, maybe a baffle in the catalytic converter, lots of people have complained about a similar rattle.

The 4x4 indicator lights on the fly shifter of the 1st gens never seem to function properly.

no one else has replaced the ignition switch on the steering column? I thought this was a fairly common problem.

i am surprised no one mentioned the never ending rust that eats away at:
rocker panels
bottoms of doors
fenders (above and behind the wheel)
top of pillars
top of rear window

i only have the first three but blazers are known for them all, and bondo seems to only be temporary.

wow....the squeak in the dash....it comes with the territory...I have the lug nut covers from the right front wheel in my door pocket..(with all the other parts) too lazy to put them back on.....as far as the rust issue..the newer ones are much better on that..I have a 2000 and the only rust I have is on the top of the roof by my rear brake light....it's only because it spent most of it's life in florida..and the clear coat wore there....very minimal..and I live in Michigan...talk about salt! owning a blazer is a catch 22...for the most part..you can beat the poop out of them..and they keep running and running....but like all vehicles....they are prone to their quirks...

want brighter lights? well i find that the sylvania silverstar lights work great, i have themadjusted perfectly and people still flash me like i got my brights on. plus i have halogen floods in the front that i shine towards the ground and slightly outward for that lit floor effect.

And with all the annoyances, I just went over 340K miles today. I finally had to replace the transfer case this week. It didn't break, it just plain wore out the gears from the chain turning for all those miles. That's what my mechanic said anyway. If anyone ever needs one, I got mine for 69.95 from Heberts in Goffstown, NH via ebay. I was quoted as much as $250 from a couple of local junkyards. $200 to mechanic to install and I had it all done forabout what Iwas quoted for just the case. Now we're having 70 degree days here in New England since it is done. Go figure!

340K miles??!!?! Wow... Im not sure what's more amazing, the fact that its still going on the original motor or the fact that you managed to put 340k miles on a '95 model year car.

Rooster,

Why is that, about the rust. I've noticed that too with Chevy trucks, they seem to be more rust prone in those areas you mentioned than other cars. Sure they run, but dude, you've got a hole in your truck!

my parents bought my blazer from a lady who owned a junkyard 6 years ago. in the time we've had it we've put about 50k miles on it, it's at 208.5k now. and in the time i've been driving i've put something like 8k on it. (havent had my license long) it hasnt broke down yet, thats always good. as far as quirks, well...
-seat levers broken
-currently replacing drivers side door (crunched it good) and the hinge pins were a PITA^5 (fifth power for you non-mathematical peoples) to get off, now i gotta get the glass out, not sure how and would appreciate help,
-busted compressor, still get cool air and heat but not as cold, or hot as it used to be
-turning on A/C or heat sucks power noticeably
-rattles and squeaks even without bumpy roads
-gas gauge reads empty at 1/8 of a tank
-battery charge meter reads almost red line, went up some time in the last few weeks from about 3/4 of the way from red line
-spare tire wont stay secured in the upright position in the back, the bracket or whatever that the bolt goes thru just slips throught the middle of the spare rim after one good bump, so it goes airborn on speed bumps and slams back down pleasantly( i take the ones at school at 5 mph so im not going that fast, and yes those are some big speed bumps)
other than that its in good shape, i put in a heater core summer before last, changed rotors coupla months back, only changed front brakes a few times since we had it, back brakes once, and doors, locks, and windows are all manual. and as far as the radio goes i put in a new one last summer with acd player andaux. input jack so i can hook up my ipod, plus i just installed xm

the rust comes from all the snow, ice, salt and saltwater if u leave near water. which i cant get away from on long island. and all that crap builds up on the inside of the panels and doesnt drain off quick enough, same with the doors. once any drain holes get clogged, then u could expect rust. maybe a few more holes wouldn't hurt or maybe some heavy mud flaps. either way u have to catch it quick cause like i said it comes from the inside out. and once it starts it is hard to stop. sometimes u may need to cut and weld on new panels

woodsballr, provide some vehicle info but its got high mileage so im guessing early 90's, and if its is and has power windows then all u need to do is lower the window half way, remove the door panel, carefully peel back the weather sheild, and there will be an access hole where now since the window is halfway down u will see two bolts that attach the window to the arm, remove these bolts while holding the window( i usually wedge the window from underneath with a piece of wood), then roll the window foward so it slides out sideways.

plus did anyone mention those damn digidashboards, mines giving me hell and i have no idea how much gas i got, not to forget about no temp, speed, oil press, batt, tach. mr whizzard is still on my wish list, justt taking me time(procrastination problem)

The whole front end for steering and suspension
Spark plugs
Seatback Lever
Whole sound system
Idler pully
Shopping carts that like to ruin my paint job

oh u must mean those "shopping cart soccer balls", i am all pro! hahahaha[8D]

The damn vacuum 4x4 system, these things suck.( and not only in the functional sense), rear glass squeek,location of fuel tank on the blazer.


I think the spark plug problem is only on 2nd gens.

To name a few:

~ any front end kiss and you have to buy bumper, bumper cover, and impact strip ( dealer cost almost $700)
~ electrical system shot after 100K. dead wiring to 3rd brake light, low beam lights, and currently working on a dead controller for the 4-wheel
~ Tranny. Tranny. Tranny.
~ Even with all new brake hardware still doesnt have much stopping power. Probably where i got the dented bumper.

Benefit: $2200 for a '97 with 100K. Not really a deal when i think of what has been spent.

the frezz plugs 4x4 fuse window pin in driver door the list can go on and on but it all comes down to it yoda is my baby 93

95 LS,160k miles
Worst ABS I ever tried to stop in...
Lower engine knock only on startup,GM says is "normal"
Rear wiper motor dead,
Alt just replaced,
Weak Front end,Ball joints upper and lower,Idler arm etc,
Just fixed power door lock not opening,
Mirrors go left and right but not up or down,
Door hinge pins...
Replaced headlight bulbsso we could see at night...
Cheap double oil line crimps end up leaving oil on road when lines let go with no warning...
This was a fleet vehicle well maintained ....I've got 1,500 miles on it and wont be buying another one anytime soon...
Oh ya, Who was the brain Child that designed the fact that you have to cut the heater fan out of the box to replace it?? Probably the same engineer that designed the fact that you had to lift and lower the body on my old one to get the bell housing bolts out...
It is no wonder GM is in trouble...User friendly I think NOT!
They look good just the same.
It is good in the snow also.
Have to be fair and list the good points...Girl friend likes it but then again she doesnt have to fix it....

on mine the passenger seat recliner broke, the door panel is loose, the damn rear window is annoying as all hell, the rear wiper doesent work anymore, sqeekey dash, my driver mirror has the factory tinting on it and it is all peeling off so now the mirror has 3 different layers on it, the thermometer does not tell the right temp, the covers on the visors that cover the mirror and keep the lights off has broken off both visors, the cover that covers the bed area that also keeps the jack in place dosent stay on......im sure there is more
BUT i love this truck. bought it 2.5 years ago for 5grand and it now has over 158000 miles on her and she is still running strong i just have to replace ball joints soon and maybe some other front suspension components. im aiming for 200000 miles

List of issues:

1. Rough idle. One light perfect and smoot, next like the motor is going to drop out.
2. NO 4hi....typical of most I think
3. Front brakes wear so fast
4. Factory radio decides when I can change the volume or station!
5. Random window motor/map light failures. Next day all is good.
6. Headlight too dim
7. Can't get heater to blow through front vents


List of good:
1. Great in snow...when I reset battery to use 4hi
2. Never been stranded
3. Decent power
4. Great rear seat design...folds completly flat!

Decent power? I find the Blazer I bought with the 4.3 vortec to be very gutless. I know it's heavy but come on there is no torques to the thing at all. Or maybe I'm just used to my Mustang that I have driven for over 10 years.

Wow! Where should I begin? All this happened in order within the last 8 months on a 1997 Blazer LT
serpintine belt replacement
belt tensioner replacement
radiator replacement ( after I flushed and serviced the old one first)
head gasket replacement
water pump replacement
heater core replacement
upper & lower ball joints replaced
idler arm replaced
front rotors
windshield wiper control switch and motor circuit board
rebuilt auto transmission
front passenger side wheel bearing hub replaced
rear drums
rear passenger side wheel bearing
front axles and transfer case replacement (both sides)
drivers door hinges & pins

I think for what it is my Blazer provides very decent power for a 6 cylinder 200hp engine. I did replace the exuast with a high-flow cat and a Flowmaster muffler. If it didn't help the power it certainly improved the sound!!

skitzobmxr: I suffer from pretty much the same issues as you.

Here is my list compiled after about four months:

1. Front suspension completely blown
2. Rear defroster non-functional
3. Using cigarette lighter either blows a fuse or shuts the dome lamp off
4. 4X4: Getting into 4 HI hard, 4 LOW improbable. Getting out of 4 LOW almost impossible. The front drive indicator lights work on and off. When in four high it sounds like I'm torturing it if I go over 15 MPH.
5. Might as well tape the window motor button down and get some coffee/read a book while it's going down.
6. Dash rattles constantly, especially that weenie little ash tray.
7. The armrest/console compartment completely busted. The hinges work, but that's about it.
8. Seat hinge latches: who needs 'em? You can just push the seat-back forward anyway!
9. Steering column broken (the height adjust part).
10. Horn button busted.
11. Remote oil filter connection leaks all over the top of the wheel well.
12. Rear glass struts will fail if anything heavier than air is pushing on it.
13. If I brake on anything other than cement the rear tires will lockup and slide.
14. Coolant leaks: one at lower driver-side of radiator, one at the thermostat, one appears to be coming from below the intake.
15. It drinks gas like I drink Pepsi, and yet never needs to use the restroom.
16. It idles higher and pulls a bit more against the brakes when I turn the defroster on.
17. Idle is screwey in general. Sometimes it'll be normal, sometimes I can barely keep it from moving when I am on the brakes.

That's it for now I think... as for the good parts? That's another thread!

when i do the middle plug on the driverside i just pull off the air box and there it is right in front of you that pain in the ass middle plug

Alright, i own a 2000 Blazer LS, 4DR, 2WD. ive had to do a number of thingsto it. It has 118k.

-replaced all the balljoints.
-replaced drag link connecting idler arm and pitman arm.
-replaced inner tie rods.
-new intake manifold gasket.
-replaced radiator.
-replaced fuel pump.
-replaced door hinge pins.
-4 wheel brakes.
-replaced alternator .
-replaced battery.
-plugs and wires.
-my hood, i pull the release and then i just kinda hit the hood and it pops up.
I saved alot of money because i did all the work myself.

Irratic gas gauge (but fuel pump is still working). LOL Having that problem right now.

Poping noise whenever you go over a bump or turn the wheel all the way.
Leather steering wheel goes to crap after 3 years.
Spark Plugs

Thats why i had to replace my fuel pump. the sending unit and the pump are one unit.

Not many problems for me, 2000 Blazer LS 2DR 4x4

130k
Alternator done
Fuel pump/sending unit
Rear glass air shocks
Balljoints soon

ORIGINAL: 2Tone

Thats why i had to replace my fuel pump. the sending unit and the pump are one unit.


Not anymore, the dealer probably stocks more than one fuel level sensor for just about every GM truck, and some of their cars also.

Here are some of theposts condensed with suggestions, fixesand other info. Maybe some of thesecould be grouped by gen. specific

Seatback lever breaks
Top of steering wheel loses rubberized coating
Power mirror switch fails - because water gets in it.
Drivers seat cloth wearing fast at point between seat and backrest
Angle of windshield causes debris to get sucked inside with windows open
door hinge bushings
Headlightsnot bright enough on 95-97 models - use sylvania silverstar
Rear hatch latch breaks
front brake pads wear out quickly
Gas tank leaking from the top after just a few years so you can't "fill-er up" without odor
Stock radio fails
Left middle spark plug hard to access - use cheap T-bar spark plug wrench (remove the centering spring if present)
window motors fail
power lock motor fail (or binding of slider)
Windsheild Wiper control circuitboard "solder" problem - see swartlkk's post on fixing this yourself or take it in for the recall
Gas gauge problems
fuel pump fails - from frequently having too low a fuel level
fuel pressure regulator fails (cpi "W" engines) - see DIY post on fixing this
coolant leaks - from using dexcool, there is a good post on coolants somewhere on BF
hood release handle separates from wire - epoxy handle to wire perhaps? use some oxidizing inhibitor?
front hub/bearing
dash requires excessive removal to replace components
distrib. cap retainer screws hard to access - use a bit handle or straight torx driver with a wrench around the handle for leverage
ABS problem - thismight be arecall, check the recalls page
front end problems
belt tensioner
idler arm
Rear glass air shocks - this is common to many vehicles because the older ones leak, and of course they are temp sensitive
rear glass squeeking - lubricate?
Plastic cover to block heatover access to heater core/blower crumbles - excessive oxidation I imagine, maybe some plastic restorer would help, but the part isn't necessary.

Other problems I've had as well:
A/c compressor fails - this seems to be common in many GM vehicles, as I've read, because they get too much moisture in the system at the factory by using a too high H2O content PAG oil.
washer fluid pumps
internal light under headlight switch assembly failed
visor elastic map straps turned into a limp mess
leather cracks above electronic seat controls
somewhere I think I read that some Blazers have dist. caps with an overly restrictive air filter on them that causes moistore to build up

why on earth is this topic not stickied?????????????

could prove very helpful for people trouble shooting or searching the web try to decide if they want to buy a blazer, or what too look out for if any one of us gets stranded out in the middle of nowhere

please sticky!!!!!!!
for our sake and the sake of others
sorry had to get that off my chest
yep i have had nearly all those probs:

idler arm
hinge pins
fuel economy
plugs!!!!!
rear window squeak
oil cooler lines
stock headlights sux, silverstar ultras fixed that
no drain plug for tranny fluid
heater blower works occasionally
power mirror switch
leather seats ripped
4x4 buttons sux
dist in back of engine, too hard to get too and then service

I have not considered putting this as a sticky simply because 75% of all things noted here really aren't common problems. For instance, of all of the things you listed, the oil lines, rear window squeaks, hinge pins, idler arm, 4x4 problems, and possibly the heater blower are the only 'common' problems.

Leather seats that are ripped is a care & maintenance issue. Mine are doing very well and all I do is put some leather cleaner/conditioner on there 2-3 times a year. No drain plug on the trans... Good luck finding a stock pan on a ton of other vehicles with a trans drain plug. My stock headlights do just fine. IMO, silverstar or any of those blue tint bulbs are a placebo. But whatever. Power mirror switch is a new one. Distributor on the back of the engine...? Oh dear. Plugs...? What about the plugs?

A much more appropriate title to this thread would be "What have you had go wrong with your Blazer?" rather than "A list of common annoying S-10 Blazer quirks.". Then from here another locked sticky can be made with the "Most Common Issues" as present in this thread.

i got the hood latch thing i lubed up all the springs and everything on the hood latch and it works good again (i had the issue where i had to push the hood down)

i also got a reallly squeeky rear window(hatch) i found that a nylon bushing stops it but its a pita to put in and get to work.

ORIGINAL: oshkosh

95 LS,160k miles
Worst ABS I ever tried to stop in...
Lower engine knock only on startup,GM says is "normal"
Rear wiper motor dead,
Alt just replaced,
Weak Front end,Ball joints upper and lower,Idler arm etc,
Just fixed power door lock not opening,
Mirrors go left and right but not up or down,
Door hinge pins...
Replaced headlight bulbsso we could see at night...
Cheap double oil line crimps end up leaving oil on road when lines let go with no warning...
This was a fleet vehicle well maintained ....I've got 1,500 miles on it and wont be buying another one anytime soon...
Oh ya, Who was the brain Child that designed the fact that you have to cut the heater fan out of the box to replace it?? Probably the same engineer that designed the fact that you had to lift and lower the body on my old one to get the bell housing bolts out...
It is no wonder GM is in trouble...User friendly I think NOT!
They look good just the same.
It is good in the snow also.
Have to be fair and list the good points...Girl friend likes it but then again she doesnt have to fix it....


OSHKOSH, what was the problem with you door locks, and if you don't mind me asking what was the fix. I am having issues with my door lock on my 94 S10 LT

just trying to make it easier on the next guy who is considering a blazer but doesn't know what to look out for. i know all about preventative maintenance (pm) and some of these "quirks" don't come down to pm. also buying used means you have to trust the pm of past owners.

setting your goals low is one thing not being able to more easily find out common probs on a vehicle your considering purchasing is another.

just makes since to me, but what do i know i have only owned a blazer for 6 months and had to replace ten random parts that in my opinion should not wear out so easily or were enginered improperly. but again what do i know i have been working on thins with motors since i was eight.other auto forums do it so why not here.

making such a sticky doesn't mean our blazers sux, it just lets the next guy down the road, who is considering a blazer, what to look out for. could help out alot of people.

lol......and what year is that blazer you've had for 6 months?.........maybe a 1995? just guessing based on your user ID, but if so how old DO you think a car should be before things start breaking on it? surely 12 years is just getting broken in right?

Truck- 1985 stock 2.8L
Miles-over 200k

Common problems-
Driver side window motor is slow and I brake the glass clips about 1 every 6 months.
Seat recline lever is broke.
Never had the hood latch problem the cable snapped once and I got one from the junkyard.
Rattles but what do you expect from a 22 year old truck!
The 3rd spark plug never had a problem I just unbolt the oil dipstick tube and move it out of the way an its a staright shot, use a standard socket and ratchet.

I sure seealot of 22 year old HONDAS in the junk yards but not too many on the road, quality engineering Huh? ;)

Hi,
On my door lock mechanism(Pass side) there is an arm that has what appears to be a silicone/rubber end on it that fits into another piece,that was torn and would cause it to pop out.So I flippedthe rubber endaround,cleaned and lubed every thingand so far so good.
Mind you I had to take the door apart,window channelsto do this and it probably would have been smarter just to replace the mechanism with a new one with the labor being the same.Lots of little cuts as it is a very tight fit and sharp metal edges..

the sparkplugs are easy . just jack up the car take off the front wheels and under the rubber flap there right there

I would have to say most annoying to me is when my windows stick in the up position and only after spraying water on them in the gasket area around the window do they work!! I got it fixed now though I had to clean the crap outta the rubber and make it pliable again and also clean the top edges of the window helps too!!! :D

Wow this was an old thread... but so far Ive had
The fuel pump replaced(when we bought it)
I dont think the sending unit works as well as it should
Oil lines leaked and had to be replaced, along with the entire filter housing
Drivers side door will need hinges replaced eventually
Water pump went out...

But I love her :D

A horrible battery for people in cold climates :D

Darned vehicles being built to run in California only lol, j/k.

I haven't really had to do much major on mine yet. But I have a big to-do list: sagging drivers door, needs a new alternator, needs intake gasket, and new brakes (new set was installed like three months ago[:'(])
only real annoying things are the rattles... the tape player annoyed me soo much before i just finally took it out. the doors,dash and rear window squeak SO much! but o well otherwise its been an awesome truck!

ORIGINAL: drperry

A horrible battery for people in cold climates :D

Darned vehicles being built to run in California only lol, j/k.


Speaking of which... I just had to replace my battery lol.

Another thing to add... closing the rear gate... even though it looks closed it will sometimes yell at me "Gate Ajar" lol

I've got the squeek in the dash too.. Its kind of comforting to know its not just mine - Now I don't have to go crazy taking the dash apart to try and find it - I can just turn the radio up a bit and ignore it!

I've only had my '04 for a week and thats the only thing I've noticed so far. I had an '02 - and I had pretty good luck with it - the only real "quirk" it had was that the front passenger window motor died on me and the lower exterior molding on the driver/passenger windows lifting. I'm surprised no one else mentioned that - I see alot of Blazers on the road with that issue...

The issue that people are mentioned with the passenger seat level breaking, is that the reclining lever or is that for the release to get into the back seat on 2 door models? (I have a 4 door, but curious if its something I should look out for...)

ORIGINAL: hls811
The issue that people are mentioned with the passenger seat level breaking, is that the reclining lever or is that for the release to get into the back seat on 2 door models? (I have a 4 door, but curious if its something I should look out for...)


It's the recline lever. It's most commonly caused by keeping weight on the seat while trying to recline it. Here is a common fix (http://www.wittydeals.com/product_info.php?products_id=29&osCsid=c9981dd1908 98180df0e54872cdecff0).

bah. I've only had three of those problems. The door hinge, the seat levers, and spark plugs. Ceramic pads are worth it if you cant keep brakes on it!!!! I'm at 23,000 milesand counting and you can't tell the pads are worn!

The only annoying thing I have is a loud hum, sounds like a fan, when the truck starts up. No idea what it could be, but it goes away after like 15 seconds.

well as for me i have an 87 S-10 Blazer with the v6 2.8L. it has 195k+ on it. i beleave the motor is new becuase everyone i talk to says there is no way in @$%$@% hell the original has lasted this long and still runs this good :)
all i can say is changing the spark plugs are a pain in the @$$. the two hardest ones to get at where the passenger side rear and the drivers side front.
my air compressor broke and was killing my engine. i would have stutters and stalls anytime i had the defroster on so i unhooked the power lines to the compressor and AC system now it runs fine. problem is before i did that it hosed my serpentine belt....
i have all kinds of squeaks to numerous to try to find and or hunt down. i get a pretty bad shimmy when i hit about 70mph... once i get to about 75 to 80mph its gone. im not entirely sure if i could hit 90mph in her but even if i did i wouldnt know as the spedomiter only goes to 85.
also whoever made the gas guage needs to die. once i get under 3/4's of a tank god knows how much gas i got. it fluctuates like crazy... one minute ill be at 3/4 next minute 1/4 then 1/2... my only rule of thumb is when it stays at or around 1/4 for a while i go get gas. so far it hasnt fooled me yet...
my drivers seat is stuck reclined quite a bit back. of course im a 370 pound 6'5 guy but still does get annoying.
my power locks dont work. and my power windows take about a year to roll up. amazingly i have no rust at all on the body. i have a little tiny amount of rust just underneath the drivers side headlamp but other than that the body is pretty cherry.
i got it for 700 bucks so far ive replaced the idle controll motor, throttle position sensor, EGR valve and done a tuneup and an oil change. oh and the serpintine belt. and im doing pretty good.
-Wes-

oh and when im on the freeway for awhile my feet start to get pretty warm.

leys see over $4000 dollars in repairs, and something seems to go wrong every 4 months, like now i have to replace my front shock aabsourbers, omg i love it but i would never buy another one, thert fun dont get me wrong, but something over at least $200 alwasy seems to break or go wrong at the worst possible time, but the worst inthe gas guage not working,at all, all i know is when the low fuerl lights starts coming on, its REALLY low like i ususaly need 16 gallons to get to full, most of the time it says 3/4 or 1/2, empty or full

Sometimes you just get bad luck, too :o

i have a 98 blazer with 171,430 approx and the only problems i have is the a/c andheat is shot my windshield is cracked all the way across and the passenger handle for the seat to tilt is broke and i had a recall on my windshield wipers front and back is f..ed up so i pulled the fuse i replaced the braks allround for $700 and i dont have any other problems out of it i traced a f250 with some mods a supercharged frontier, a 2002 tahoe, a 94 camero with intake and exhaust with a v6. but will get some pictures up soon.

vince

78,XxX

Replaced:

Fuel pump
Sending Unit
Ignition Switch
Battery
Fuel filter
Tranny Lines
Oil lines


Thats about it....Only had it for 9 months though [>:]

I bought my 1998 Blazer 4dr 4wd LT last year in May and well so far I've the same problems as everyone else with minor exceptions: (which I'm sure are just waiting to happen)

~Started leaking coolant and would smoke after hitting 50mph or more leading to a new thermostat and intake gasket
~Dexcool sludging up my lines need them flushed however they put more dexcool in. Waste of $50
~Alternator went in a matter of hours one day
~Tranny went soon after (Thank god for aftermarket warranty!)
~ABS still acts up to this day leading to activation even at slow speeds of less than 5mph, expensive part to replace @ $1600 (not covered under warranty)
~Will need new rotors and pads on front though think they were replaced last year sometime b4 purchase
~Heat would not work, but was only the blend door actuator that was broke
~Power window now works when it feels like, though at the moment it's being cranky
~Replaced the passenger seatback lever, broke when I bought it
~Dealership tried to sell me the truck with bearings broke and AC not working, (Made such a fuss I think I scared the guy)

However I ABSOLUTLY love this truck, and despite all the problems don't regret buying it!


oh yeah, forgot these too:
~Air blows out of every vent no matter where I set it
~Rear windshield wiper fluid leads out of the roof
~Speed controlled volume works at the worst times even when turned off
~Starting to hate the solar headlights because they don't sense darkness and suck in tunnels

97 S-10 BLAZER Anyone know why this thing will turn over a while then all of a sudden the dash and headlights come on and the engine starts? Sometimes the lights won`t come on and it will not start. If I put the charger on it , same thing untill I turn up the amps on the charger then all the lights come on and it starts right away. Tryed new battery and same results. New fuel filter, fuel pump is running. WTF ?

*Moved to a new thread in 2nd Gen Tech* --> Sometimes won't start...? (http://www.blazerforum.com/m_133892/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#133892)

try replacing the battery cables.

try posting in a tech forum..not the list of annoying quirks..

ORIGINAL: guywm25

for the hood to open,Â*after pullingÂ*the releaseÂ*try pulling up on the right hand side of the hood, it's what works for me.


Pull up on the hood, and give it a little tap where the hood release is.

Soak the latch and release assembly with WD-40. And the hinges for good measure. That fixed the no-pop problem on mine!

I hosed mine with carb cleaner before I re-greased it... to get all of the crud off of it, then I used white lithim grease in a spray can..

Ah..That sounds like a longer lasting fix. When my WD-40 wears out i'll take that route! Thanks for the tip!

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Seatback lever broken drivers side for sure, passenger side also if you ever gave someone a ride.

This one happened to me.

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Power mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

Passenger side doesn't work at all.

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Drivers seat cloth wearing fast at point between seat and backrest

Yup.

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* HEADLIGHTS not bright enough on 95-97 models

Resolved with the H4 Upgrade (http://www.blazerforum.com/m_99011/tm.htm). 98+ Front-End Upgrade (http://www.blazerforum.com/m_63571/tm.htm) also resolves.

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Requires front brakes more than any other vehicles ever owned

I replaced mine three years ago with Bendix pads. No problems yet. They cost a little more, but they're worth it.

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Come with Delco radios that have a shelf life of 3-5 years

My radio still works fine. It's speakers I need. (Knocking on wood.)

ORIGINAL: Blasir
* Spark plugs located whereas you need David Blaine to help you change middle drivers side.

Ain't that the truth.

Edit - 2/20/2008

Repairs I've done since we've had it (does not include routine maintenance): Replaced entire cooling system, upgraded the fan, and flushed out the DexFOOL Replaced exhaust system Replaced distributor, spark plugs, wires Replaced battery (practically off the lot; dealer probably gave us a bad one; still using the same one) Replaced brake pads (Bendix - ONCE) Replaced headlight switch Replaced passenger side mirror I'll also say this....Overall, most of the repairs I have done on my '96 Blazer were due to normal wear and tear. A lot of the complaints I've seen posted are the same. My truck is 12 years old, with 163,000 miles, so I'm just happy that the engine and tranny are in great shape! Everything else IMO is secondary. It's also paid for, so that frees up extra money to take care of minor repairs as they are needed. A lot of people will probably disagree about this, but I also believe that your vehicle can tell when you don't like it. It's the energy you give off. I love mine, so it seems to love me back.

I guess I'll contribute.

97 S10 Blazer, 2Dr, 4WD 124k Miles

On its 2nd Fuel Pump (To my knowledge)
Mirror Switch Doesn't Work Correctly (Chevy has done a crappy sealing job on the Driver's side Window)
Brakes, Front and Back.
O2 Sensor

I keep seeing brakes listed...I've never had a problem with my brakes. If you guys are talking about the rotors and pads, well...buy nicer stuff[8D]

ORIGINAL: WolfPack

I keep seeing brakes listed...I've never had a problem with my brakes. If you guys are talking about the rotors and pads, well...buy nicer stuff[8D]


EXACTLY! I put Bendix pads on the first time I had a problem, and they haven't needed replacing since. Three years and counting. I'm thinking about replacing the rear axle assembly with one from a later model, so that I'll have discs all around...

I was able to get the middle, drivers side plug out with a 3/8 universal socket...no steering box removal....HAVE PATIENCE !!!!!!!!

Well I owned a 1987 Jimmy 4x4 from 1990-2006. The only problem I had with it was vacuum lines rotting out, and with a 2.8 v-6 the intake gasket ( I think that is what I remember) had to be replaced several times. Now I owned this jimmy for 16 years put 180,000 miles on it. If it didn't need a new tranny, engine, and all front end parts I would have kept it.

with my 99 Blazer. lets see here are some problems I am haveing with it.
-I pull on the hood release, it pops but the hood won't release.
-power mirrors won't work.
-other than the list of things I got from the mechanic which he said was normal wear and tear with 160,000 miles I can't think of anything else. I had great luck with my 87 and i hope to have the same luck with my 99.

1. DexCrap still need to get it flushed I got most out...
2. Rattles.... I will be sound proofing the whole cab eventually
3. Top rear brake light gets water in it so will need to replace that soon.
4. Rust - normal I guess just hate seeing it.
5. Will need a new exhaust soon (thinking stainless along with headers :D)

Had the car since april 23 08, Already did rotor,cap,wires,plugs,(easier than you guys make it out to be), thermostat. Im @ 105K on stock balljoints which I am doing the whole front end after i move in 14 days. Othen than that she is a great truck and with the 3k miles i put on her in 1.5 months no problems.

Previous owner replaced the spider injector/ac compressor so Im set on that for a whole.

Someone help me with my 1998 blazer 2door. my wiper blades are working sometimes but not working mostly when I most needed them.

This is not really the appropriate place to ask... I'll answer in your other thread.

ORIGINAL: Brian J. Lesko

Anyone else have trouble with their gas guage fluxuating? That happened around 90K. Alternator went out around 80K, front wheel bearings and ball joints around 60K, fuel pump just before 100K, 4x4 went out around 75K.

ya i have the same problem
i just watch the trip and the fuel used computer thing (vary accurate for me so far) ya 18 gallon tank and i used 15 gallons and needle is at half but when it is full the needle is at full. and when it is really low it show full some times then when i start going form a stop it speeds over the the E and the low fuel light goes on.

my old blazer 93 4d 2wd with 226,000+ miles on it and it sat for 3 years.. the power for the power button for the radio was touchy, and it wont spray wind shield fluid in the rear. and the dash lights go out. and when it is wet out it get moister in the engine and bogs down at more then half throttle. The button on the door the turns the lights off when closed on the door it rust out then grounds out then lights wont go off. gas tanks rust out 14 years old
nothing rally wrong with the optional things...other then the fluid wont spray. power locks,key less entry, power windows,power seat, power lumbar.

and some more thing the pass side wind shield wiper on the far right does not contact the glass.
and i have to say i love it!i would like to see a foreign car do what a American vehicle can do.
and some i don't get is "you want foreign cars" but American tools???

My blazer every oncein a while when i go to take off sometime it has a hesitation. Any recommendations on what to check?

I will say this again, this post is a "list", not a help topic. Please post in the appropriate section.

Three letters for 1st gens: EGR.
oh and a loose rear window

1st generation...EGR valve and SES light?
Sollution:
Get on the open road or freeway and drive yourS/T10 Blazer like you were mad at it. Do that fortwenty miles per month.Then theSES will quit appearingand the ECM will quit throwing the infamous Code 32 due to carbon fouling. Hard driving (80+ MPH) frees up the pentle in the EGR valve anditquits sendingproblem signals to the ECM.

Troublesome #3 spark plug?
Solution:
Use AC Delco Rapidfire #1(GM-25164639) spark plugs. At least you will not have to change plugs for 60,000 miles. If you have aoil burner or do a lot of slow stop and godriving,use AC Delco Rapidfire #2 (GM-25164640) spark plugs which are hotter. Sure, Tightwad, the Rapidfire plugs aremore expensive but you don't have to change them as often. They are especiallydesignedfor"inaccessable" spark plugs on modern vehicles. They replace AC CR43TS and AC CR45TS respectively.

uh lets see

-Passenger Seat lever broken (been replaced)
-hood must be slapped to pop up
-tranny went out :( but got one with 10k miles less than the engine
-drivers door panel doesn't like to stay popped into place. rattles like heck
-drivers door doesnt seem to latch closed all the way. i can see light from the inside to the outside. hinge pin bushing is messed up too
-passenger doors hinge pin bushing is totally messed up so door sags down making it really hard to close
-fluctuating fuel gauge
-almost "popping" noise when wheel is cranked all the way left or right

theres prolly a lil more just cant remember


but i still love my truck :)

As a general rule, the S/T-10 Chevrolet Blazersaredelicate, highmaintenence vehicles. I cannot understand why they would ever beconsideredfor "off-road" use.

My '91 Blazer may be anexception. I was given my '91 Blazer by my daughter and she bught it new in Seattle Washington andkept it in perfect condition for 18 years.It was seldomdrivenfaster than50 MPH except when she drove it from Seattle to Dallas early last spring when she delivered it to me.I suspect that is the main reason for the occasional EGR Code 32 SES light.I am still being amazed at the originality and good condition of the damned thing. The body and black paint is perfect and everything worksas it should except the EGR and I have fixed the old Code 32problem by driving as I previously wrote.Black paint is the most difficult color to maintain.I am replacing itemsnot because they are bad or don't work, I replace somepartsjust because they are 18 years oldand are due for retirement.

Next on my "things to do" list are theOEM AC Delco shocks. The OEM shocksapparently are still workingperfectly but they aredirty.

The rear passenger door seals came loose andIreplaced them with a new ones. The OEM seals are two piece (made by the UAW) and will separate. The replacement seals are moulded in one piece (made in China). You must keep the door sealsmessagedwith asilicone compound to prevent them from sticking to the doors.

My wife had to have our 97 S10 Blazer 4dr, 4wd. I HATE this truck. Here is my list:

I just put on the 5th altenator and the bearing is already noisy
replaced ac compressor
#3 plug is a B**** to replace
warps the rotors after about 10 months of driving (probably the wife's driving....lol)
gas gauge is never correct unless the truck is full
replaced intake gasket
replaced water pump, flushed out Dex-cool and went to regular green anti freeze
windshield wiper control board
key will not come out of the ignition switch from time to time
replaced the ignition switch twice. 1st time it wouldn't crank every time, second time it wasn't sending power to the transmission and it was stuck in third gear
replaced both remote oil filter lines. replaced the lines from the engine to the filter twice
transmission started shifting really hard, hadthe valvebody replaced in the tranmission
the rear drivers side electric window switch is bad

This list does not include regular maintanance. It's got 127,000 miles on it. I hate the way it drives. I got a 98 S10 2wd pickup truck with 112, 000 on it andthere is no camparison between the 2. I can't wait to get rid of the thing.

* Top of steering wheel losing rubberized coating.

* Power mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

* HEADLIGHTS not bright enough on 95-97 models

Ive had these problems too, working on fixing them. Another thing i've noticed, not only with my blazer but my previous chev truck was when opening the hood it didn't fully pop so you'd have to drum on it a couple times until you hit the "sweet spot" and then it'd pop open.

I am the original owner of my 91 S15 Jimmy. It now has almost 395,000 miles. So here is my list of annoyances.

Rear Back Glass Rattle.(Reduced)
Mystery Wiper Swipe. (Fixed)
Center Console Hinge Breaks (Replaced)
Glove Box Door Hinge Breaks (Replaced/Repaired)
Driver Side Door Handle Spring Breaks. (Replaced)
Door Hinge Pin Bushings wear out. (Repaired/Replaced)
Low Fuel Pump Pressure. (Installed Adjustable Regulator)
Sagging Headliner. (Replaced with ABS Plastic Headliner)

I've not yet had any of the above on my '99 Blazer, but then I've only got 86k on the clock. Thank goodness the Japanese don't run up high milages on their veichles (I bought at 72,000km). BUT... I know what's coming sometime - Later, rather thansooner. lol

well my blazer has been good.

i had the steering wheel burnt by the sun on the top.
wind shield wiper delay board go out.
it does blow air from all vents all the time
compressor does not work
recline handles are broken
had radiator flushed but then got leak and then it stopped and i put green stuff in it
driver side window does not work
power mirrors dont work but defrost in them still does
radio and thermostat lights dont work


but considering that it has 185XXX miles and i got it for $2700 and have fixed all that stuff up there for like $400 so that is $3100 it is a great deal and for my first car i am happy.

Add my truck to the list of dead fuel pumps. Good thing the truck is lifted so it made the replacement a lot easier. Still need to replace both cv axels and the prop shaft that finally broke. Other than that the truck has been great.

I've had to replace a U-joint (rear one of rear driveshaft) at 95,000 km. It was worn way before this.

A plastic cover for the front seat track broke.

Headlights are weak, stereo doesn't sound great (no bass).

Other than that, I've been lucky, no problems with brakes, ball joints, hubs, hood releases(after popping the interior hood releaseyou have to push down on the hood slightlyor the latch won't move and thus won't open), fuel pump, OEM Wranglers, power assists.

How much do you guys think your problems are due to hard driving? I don't drive mine hard.

well i think it has every thing to do with the driver. like i get 20 miles to the gallon gas. and my shocks have 185000 miles on them . and i have a strong engine and trans. so i think it is how you drive it

I don't drive my truck hard at all. Just normal wear and tear items that break.

I've been reading the pages of quirks and problems and
Oh geez, I just got a 99' Jimmy 4x4 with 80k miles. The dealer had to replace the hood popper cable and fix the gas gauge. Other than that I notice none of the aformentioned characteristic issues. Over the past 10 years I've had a 91 Jimmy 4x4 and a 92 Blazer 4x4 and both of them had the same problems of a leaky gas tank, bad upper ball joints, squeeky back glass and began to guzzel gas at 155k miles. But both of them didn't have a single lube leak. Underneath them was completely dry where the 99'has a leaky tailshaft seal.
My 99 Jimmy is a one owner non-smoker, probably a woman because of the slight perfume scent.It has leather seats and drivers seat and leather steering wheelshows very little to nowear. It has already had drivers side upper b-joint replaced. The headlights and brights are plenty bright but the little lights that are integeral with the parking lights, I guess they'r the day driving lights aren't bright enuff to do anything. I paid $4715 with tax for it.. Trans and eng oil had been changed and it had 4 new Wrangler tires.
I hope it lasts a year or 2 before any costly maint.

Man, i feel like a lucky SOB right now. My 89 and my current 91 have had very FEW of these problems. I do maintenance the living hell out of them though. My 89 had 388,000 when i decided to donate it to my brother for a work vehicle. My current 91 has 220k on it, and she still runs smooth, rides smooth, virtually no squeaks, but i did replace all audio with Pioneer high end stuff, with an 80 gig harddrive in the glovebox for non stop tunes.I do fear balljoints soon though, but i can't complain for them being the originals. I drove this truck to Washington state from Ohio, and back. Then to Kansas, and back. Florida and back. Twice. Never left me stranded. Just one question...who would trade their's for an Exploder? (Explorer) lol

As I said a number of pages ago in this thread, the title does not properly cover what is being discussed in this thread. "Common" means it happens to a LOT of people in comparison to the number of vehicles sold, not just one or two. If this thread were to get boiled down to list the complaints and frequencies, the "common" problems could be pulled out and listed. With the millions of S-series Blazers sold since inception in 1983, there are bound to be people with somewhat rare problems or problems resulting from lack of maintenance to go along with those common items.

From my observations over the past few years of giving advice on this forum, here is what I would list as "Common" problems:
Electronic Transfer Case No Shift
Manual Seat Recline Handle Breakage
2nd Generation rear window actuator link breakage
Ball Joint Failures
1st Gen rear window rattle/squeak
2nd Gen Intake Manifold leaks

Other items that may not really be "Common", but are for sure annoying would be:
Windshield wipers INOP or random
2nd gen Cooling system problems (other - including heater core leaks/blockage)
ABS issues
Brake issues (highly dependent on parts used)
etc.

I am sure there are some that I missed or that some people may feel a certain problem should be listed as "Common" because they heard it from their brother who heard from his buddy's ex-girlfriend's father... that it happens all the time.

my list after a week of ownership:fully loaded 1996 BLAZERLT [with 140,000km] that has a leather interior but plastic console rattling -cheep...crappy brakes- ill put in some ceramics like my wifesMATRIXuses up twice a year LOL,motor that should be 190 horse -more like 90 horse -[may need new plugs and wires]drivers door needs bushings/hinge, DELCO radio system that shuts down after you change new battery,[i fiddled with it and now my radio works again!!] cant get a straight answer about the rad coolant from the oil change place,vehicle has been repainted and new front end done as well as SERP belt and noisy idlerpulley- no cool air from A/C..ah.. i live in a desert- will need to fix this im afraid!!this truck is posh and is one of the best vehicles ive ever owned..overall- im happy bout my new purchase and hope to fix things up and with this forums help AND get her done... good...:D

I have a 2000 blazer 2WD and I don't know if these are common but I'm amazed at the issues this vehicle has especialy as well taken care it has been all it's life.
It's my daughters truck she got from her grandmother when she passed away. This thing was litarally driven once a week on average all it's life until now and withless than 40k miles on it, it's falling apart faster then I can fix it.

1. Front endsounds like it going to fall out. Been that way sence the day her grandmother drove it off the lot. Has been to the dealership and several different mechanics. Nothing found wrong. Been told by more than onethese mechanics these vehicles are garbage and the front ends in them do that most all of them. Nothing can be done aboutit. If I find the engineer I'm going to beat him to within an inch of his life.

2. Dashboard is disintagrating.

3. A/C is leaking, was told by mechanic the compressors in these are bad about it. Will probably have to replace it soon.

4. Radio turns on and off at will.

5. Has developed a short that drains the battery overnight. Thanks to this forum I've located a wiring diagram and hope to locate and remedy soon.

6. Pins that hold the rear hatch on never had the retainer clips installed. Discovered this when the hatch tried to fall off when I opened it. Makes me wonder what else they forgot to install correctly

Put new tires and shocks on it hoping it would help the way it rode and turned, I'm not impressed.
I don't like the way it accelerates nor do I like the way it brakes. Sorry guys if I'm stepping on toes but of the 5 vehicles I own this is the last one I'd want to have to make a quick move in and that includes my 2 94 geo metros.
I hope I'm wrong but I predict I'm pouring money in a hole that is this truck with almost no miles on it and will be sorry for it. But my daughter loves it so I'm doing my best to get it in some kind of dependable shape.
If any of you would be so kind please message me with any advice you would like to pass along about any of these issues, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise if I can't fix the electrical issues I'm considering setting it on fire and dancing around it giggling like a little girl. I hope you all have better luck with the depenability of your blazers. I won't be allowing my daughter to drive this one out of the county.

One of the worst things that can be done to a vehicle is to have it sit for long periods of time (days) only being driven short distances. 40k miles in 8 years is almost as bad as than 200k miles in 8 years. Depending on maintenance in both cases, it could be worse.

I agree totally that sitting up isn't good for a vehicle, but I've resurrected older vehicles that sat up longer with less hassel. I'm hoping the electrical issue can be tracked down and solved without to much pain. It's a beautiful truck in such good shape, I'd hate to have to get rid of it. Besides the fact that my daughter would probably try to disown me if I did. LOL. After all the truck is paid for and a vehicle without a note is always a good thing. At the risk of getting off subject, my biggest concern besides that is the front suspension noise that I'm told is an inherent problem with these truck. It has been an issue with this one from day one so I can't blame it on the fact that it wasn't driven often. Am I the only one with this problem, or is it really a common thing?And most importantly what can I do about it besides driving it into the nearest river?

only problems ive had on my 01 Blazer LT 4x4 are the drivers window motor, a huge seal leak on the drivers side, when it rains i get a inch deep puddle under my floor mat, and not my abs light has some bad connection to the battery

but all in all i love my baby

I bought my 2003 Chevy Blazer, 2 years ago part of the GM Certified Used Vechicle Program. There is not much that did go wrong with compared to the others, but it is a newer vehicle.
But here is what I done:
-Had to replaced the gas cap. I believe the orginal one was swap with another during the transition from the first owner to me.
-Had to replace (2) O2 sensors, due to the check engine light being on and off. Any check engine light must be taken care of or it will haunt you when it comes toour state emission testing requirements.[>:]
-Got my radiator flushed, this year. After hearing about GM's class action lawsuitwith Dexcool. I decided not to wait around on that one.
-After over a year with starter problems, not being able to locate the problem, the starter got replaced. Being over 5 years old, and starting to act up over a 1 1/2 ago, for those who argue over OEM vs. aftermarket parts, I will give a thumbs up on aftermarket if my starter is problem free for over 4 years.
-I have a noise once a while when I get an increase in rpm's and wet weather that going to need to be figured out.
-An oil leak in my front defferentioal will need to be fix sometime.

Otherwise its a good vehicle.

http://www.blazerforum.com/micons/m13.gifhas anyone had trouble with the hose located behind the a/c pump that comes out of the intake manifold runs along the top then down the back of the motor my wife has a 99 v-6 that is leaking antifreeze out of this hose but it looks like a hydraulic hose fitting that goes into the intake

Sounds like you are describing the EGR supply tube which has nothing to do with antifreeze. If you would need help diagnosing your problem, please post a new thread in the 2nd Gen Tech section.

Wau i have all thouse problems , huh and i thought i was the only one lol

2000 2 door zr2

passenger seat handle
oil lines to filter (actually such a common problem their usually not covered under warranties)
button on talegate for glass has to be pushed like 8 times before it works
hood popper cable snapped but didnt have any sticking out to grab so i had to cut a hole in my grill to open it and just pulled the cable out of the sleeve and tied it in a loop and now it sticks out of my grill but im in the process of putting on locking hood pins
water leaking inside somewhere so the carpet under the back seat was always wet so it stunk
driverside window motor and power seat motors stopped working but they did spend about 6 hours under water
plastic tail gate panel screws the ones on the sides by the hinges broke the corners off the panel along with all of the ones at the salvage yards too
mirror switch half works same with the ones at the yards
spare tire holder dinted the body since the tire weighs so much
a/c leak
heater core filled with rust
bolts for seats and seat belts will NOT come out i actually melted the end of a tungsten bit on one after i broke about 5 bits and a stripped screw puller

other then that stuff you cant stop it from running they can take a beating and still drive

Lol . you are right about the Spark plugs ...lol I dont yet have any other problems listed (Knock on wood).
But I do have a rattling on the passenger door were the speaker is .. does anyone else have this problem??

Yeah me to on my 02 blazer .....
Driver seat handle busted when I got the truck, (passengers ready tohaha), Power mirrors always acting up I think it went now...tried other day and ...Nothing. Doors sagging got to get bushings. Hood opens with special "techneek". On my Dads 93 blazer Windows would take 5 min to roll up or down Lubed track got..ehh...little better. Gas tank smell when filled, Power window relay was "draining" battery unhooked it for now. Just put "rebuilt " tranny in it in the summer.....But I still wouldn't trade my "CHEVY" for a "ford"!! Haha!!!

The only 2 things on mine is the glass popper button doesnt work at all and my back glass window washer pump lines are cut all to piece. but other than that i love her.

Engine blows oil smoke whenfirststarted....Wornvalve seals (usually fail with 40,000 miles)
Power door lock malfiunction.....................Badrelay (unpredictable)
Excessive front brake pad wear.................Bad ABSmodulator(not applying rear brakes)
No rear brake shoe wear..........................Bad ABS modulator (not applying rear brakes)
Low of soft brake pedal...........................Bad ABS modulator(valve by-passing)

I detected the bad power door lock relay when my Deltran 800ma Battery Tender never illuminated the green maintenance light and stayed in the chargingmode which is theyellow light or in the charging mode.When the Deltran Battery Tender stays in the yellow charging mode, thatindicates a weakbattery,bad relay, bad sensor or somekind of short and amperage drain in theelectricalsystem when the ignition key is off.The modern computer systems in cars will havea normal 30 to 50 ma parasitic battery drain when the ignition is off.My power door lock relayapparently had more than a100 ma battery drain and kept the battery tender in the charging mode. A good digital multimeter would have told meexcactly how much battery drain the system had.

ABS brakes must have clean fluid without any air in the system at all times or they will malfunction. That is because offluid contamination, i.e.,air, water anddebris in the fluid.ABS brakes require that you flush brake fluid at least every30,000 miles. That mayrequire that you pressure bleed the brakes to eliminate any air in the system.Foot bleeding may, or may not , flushthe contaminants out of thesystem.

Yesterday,I replaced my 1990 -1992 rare, expensive and obsoleteKelsey-Hayes EBC4 ABS Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit. My 1991 S10 Blazer SUVis now at theauto repair shophavingthe brakes pressure bled at a cost of$90 sinceI don't have a pressure bleeder or compressed air.

Most of the"Bad Dream" S10 Blazer problemsare usually related tolack of regular maintenance. The 1st Generation S10 Blazersare very delicate andhigh-maintenance vehicles.

Excessive front brake pad wear.................Bad ABSmodulator(not applying rear brakes)
No rear brake shoe wear..........................Bad ABS modulator (not applying rear brakes)
Low of soft brake pedal...........................Bad ABS modulator(valve by-passing)
ABS brakes must have clean fluid without any air in the system at all times or they will malfunction. That is because offluid contamination, i.e.,air, water anddebris in the fluid.ABS brakes require that you flush brake fluid at least every30,000 miles. That may may require that you pressure bleed the brakes to eliminate any air in the system.Foot bleeding may or may not get the contaminants out or thesystem.

Not to argue, but the only thing true in this entire quote is that brakes (ALL hydraulic brakes) need to have clean uncontaminated fluid.
ABS's do not have ANYTHING to do with brake pad wear or contact patterns. Your pad wear and lack of shoe wear are probably both caused by mal-adjusted rear brake shoes. your low/soft pedal is caused by air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

The fluid does not have a shelf life once in use, as long as you don't get moisture/debris in it, it should last for the life of the vehicle. Mine has the original fluid @ 13 years and 146,000 miles..brakes perform like new still.

It appears that you dont know muchabout ABS brakes. Read on and you may learn a thing or two.

A conventional hydraulic brake system SELDOMneeds the brake fluid changed. However, it is essential to have clean fluid if you have a 4-sensor(4WAL) Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit or a EBC2 RABS or RWAL system with one-channel rear brakes.Kelsey-Hayes made improvements to the 2nd GenerationABS three-sensor ABS systems afterthousands of customer complaints. The EBC4 was used on S10 Balzer from 1990-1995. The 1990-1992 EBC4 ABS was a four sensor system (sensoron each wheel) and the1993-1995 EBC4 ABS is a three sensor (front wheels and driveshaft) system. Thebetter designed ABS modulators used on the 1996 and laterBlazersare not as sensitive to contaminatedbrake fluid and can go for more than 150,000 mileson the original fluid.

Assuming the master cylinder by-passed when my brakes were soft and unexpectedly went to the floor, the first thing I did was replace the master cylinder wehich was awaste of time and money.Master cylinders are nearly failure proof and will last for the life of the vehcile, in most cases. Some rear brakes have not been used for years on vehciles with the EBC2 and EBC4 ABS and the vehicleowner does not even know it. He just keeps replacing the front brakes pads once every six months. One good way to see if your ABS EHCU/modulatoris malfunctioning is to examine the rear brake shoes to see if they are being applied.If there is norear brake wear,it islikely to mean that therear brake channel in the EHCU is by-passing fluid into the low pressure accumulator when the brakes are applied. .To properly bleed the EBC4 4WALbrakes you must use aScan 1 tool which most "ASE Certified" technicians have never even seen.

A by-passing dump-valve in the Kelsey-HayesEBC4 EHCU will appear exactly the same as aby-passing master cylinder. However, unlike a by-passing master cylinder, aby-passing dump valve in a Kelsey-Hayes EBC4 EHCU will NOT turn on the ABS warning light and will NOT cause any codes to be set, yet the brake pedal will go completely to the floor! That is because the combination valve does not relay a signal to ECM to ilkluminate theABS warning light in the instrument cluster. That isbecause the master cylinder is functioning correctly and does not trigger the combination valve switch.The majority of the modern ABS systems are designed to store a trouble code, disable themselves and illuniate the ABS warning lightin the event of a problem with the ABS. The EBC4 systems will not do that and are known to have "ABS Non-Trouble Code Problems." Thess systems include EBC2, EBC4 (1990-1992 S10 Blazer 4WAL brakes), EBC310, EBC325, EBC410,and the EBC430 versions.The EBC2 RWAL ABS have been used on Ford, Chevy/GMC, Dodge, Isuzu, Mazda, Nissan and Suzuki light trucks and a few SUVs and minivans since 1987. Another problem with the EBC4 ABS is that theABS pump relay can fail and turn the pump on when the ignition key is turned on, not just in a ABS event like it is supposed to.The duty cycle of a ABS pump is a couple of hours and will burn out quickly if it runs constantly.The EBC4 ABS pump relay is located inside the EHCU and theunitis not serviceable and can only bereplaced. Fortunately for GM, there was never a recall on the EBC4 EHCU failures because they usually malfunctioned when the Blazer or minivan was well out of warranty. Onthe 1987-1995 expensiveEBC4 EHCU/modulators that failed before the vehciles were out of warranty, the factory escaped a recall by blaming it on the customer not knowing how to stop with the new ABS brakes.The later failures were recalled and the dealershipsreplaced a $10 selector switch.

my drivers side seatback lever is broken, wish you could weld it back
my steering wheel is slippery sometimes
i have put new pads and new discs on the front once in 100000 miles
and i find david copperfeild more helpful when changing spark plugs
david blaine always wants to do it upside down lol
oh and my passenger side door does rattle
but its more of the speaker cover
do you think puting something to space it out and keeep it tight would help?

Stevo....Be thankful you have a 2001 Blazer with well engineered ABSbrakes. The front and rear brakes on 1995 and later Blazers do not have the failure prone rearbrake system.

If you live in the back-country where you only stop your Blazer once every one or twohours, even the failure prone 1990-1994 ABS brakes would last 100,000 miles.

after owning my 3rd dime...a few things I know are common with S- Series
Idler arms, Control-arm bushings and ball-joints.. the front ends are designed for street and they prefer a well maintained street. potholes and offroad will rapidly accelerate wear.
EOC, or Engine oil cooler lines. 90's series, They leak at the radiator... get used to it or get the aftermarket fix kit.
Harleys leak and Blazers squeek. Glass, dash and panels.
Get Brembo or Bendix Brakes... Skimp on something else. Brakes arent the place to go cheap.
the ($^($%@! Seat handle rods.... Ive gone as far as to have new rods Machined at a Machine shop. (NOT a cheap fix)

as stated above, maintenace and driving style/habits have allot to do with the trucks problems.
I Drive mine here in kuwait for ~50 miles a day at speeds up to 90mph (highway in kuwait).
I have alignment issues and suspension issues due largely to off-road and speedbump/potholes.
I have oil leaks and brake issues due to the high speeds required here. (even Brembos wear hard when hard brakingat 90MPH)
I have vacuum line breakage due to steady 120-130 degree temperatures during the summer... my interior is drying up for the same reason.
I stay on top of these issues, because an issue only becomes a problem if you dont address it. :)

well i guess ill post my problems to HA!

1. Speedo cable squeeks when it gets moisture or warm
2. Everything friggin rattles, sometimes little mystery rattles too!
3.the push/pull air vent on the drivers side floor isnt sealed, makes for some cold feet, and sweaty upper body tryin to heat those feet.

Other than that i love my blazer! its an 88, 2door, 2wd, 2.8, 5spd, sunroof, white, got the indash dvd, z28 rims, dual exhaust,and a couple other goodies.

Im new to the forum, will post pics one of these days, and post some more threads in the tech area.

Thanks for reading,
Justin

Where to begin... 2005 Blazer

01) Liftgate struts... GARBAGE... on 3rd set
02)Driver door has NEVER closed properly.
03) Drivers side recline lever must be made from plastic.
04) Getting water on drivers side floor in rain. (Don't even have to be driving)
05) NOW... 4x4 is shot. Tech's say anywhere from $400 to $2000. It could be the... & so on.
06) Definitely have the fuel odor when filled to top.

Thanks for schooling me Duntov, I guess I was taught wrong when my college professor and General Motors training told me that the hydraulic brake system has to be completely independant of the ABS brakes according to federal law. You really do learn something new every day! Thanks again.

Actually to solve the problem between Duntov and lastcoupe.You are both only half right.

All brake systems require servicing every 30k or more frequently depending on driving habits.
Stick your finger into ANY reservoir and notice the gunk in the bottom this gunk accelerates wear in your ruber lines calipers, and mostly in the rear wheel cylinders.As a previous Olds tech this is something we preached to customers those who heeded our advice rarely had leaking wheel cylinders wich as we all know are a GM trait inherant in every drum brake GM.
Also the procedure is easily worth .3 on your time ticket.

Anyhow my list of maladies would include
poor poor gas mileage due to clogged egr passages
mysterious rattle behind the glovebox
Have to push the window release a few times to activate. (Altho a little bit of black tape around the striker for the window works wonders)
front end parts
front brake pads had 4 sets last summer thanks to the area I was working having alot of deep sandy mud

I drive my 94 like I stole it so I cant complain I have been coming home from the Oil rig and brought her off the ground more times than I can count

The number 1 problem that no one has listed and I just read all 7 pages is the 4 way hazzard light button that just pops out one day and not knowing that the most expensive place to buy parts (dealership) has the cheapest fix 15 dollars vs auto zone or any othe parts house that wants to sell you the whole damn assy.

Kepp your rear brakes adjusted rite and you will quit putting front pads and rotors on
buy ac delco replacements for your ride and you will not have to replace stuff all the time it cost more but you have more free weekends to do what you want to do and you don't have to leave and go get your wife in the middle of the night.

# 3 spark plug is easy get a plug socket take the rubber out slide it on the plug take a wrench brake it loose take the socket back off and unscrew with your fingers install the same way.

as far as the recline lever tell people to just buckle up and ride and stop messing with crap if they are tired they need to lay in the bed and take a nap not take one in your ride!

Most of these 2nd. gen rides should be paid off by now so spend what you was spending on the monthly payments on repairing the stuff that went bad and make people leave s*** alone

02 blazer 2wd 75k miles
hood is pretty much stuck closed hard lifting gets it open
rear window squeaked still rattles on rough roads
crappy alternator(thanks GM)
factory radio was the first thing i threw in the garbage
all panels are siliconed to keep them from rattling by the speakers


if i get any headaches im gonna spare everyone else and have it crushed and get a challenger

It's funny you mention the hood issue, I am having the exact same problem. I gotta kind of reach with my left hand and tug up on the extreme edge of the bug guard and with my right hand find the lever to pop the hood and it works most of the time. But if I don't do it that way, it opens less than half of the time.

Hi Dave! hey to you and lownslow, you can EASILY remedy the hood concern with a can of penatrating oil, just lube up the hood latch, close and open the hood several times and you should be good to go.

As for the No.3 spark plug on a 4.3 4x4...I went and bought a $5 swivel socket at AZ and went through the wheel well...Took all of 30 seconds to get out.

My Jimmy has been pretty good, however, few issues have appeared after 1 y of ownership:

needed U-joint replacement (rear driveshaft)
plastic cover of driver's seat rail broke
battery died (maybe I left the dome light on, then completed the death by getting key stuck in ignition with weak battery)
rear hatch glass used to squeak badly last winter, seems better this year
driver's seat cloth beginning to wearing through
cracked windshield, certain cars seem to get cracks more easily than others (hasn't spread, don't intend to fix unless it gets worse)
I see signs that the fuel gauge wants to misbehaves, but this disappears if the engine is shut off and restarted
Bose stereo sounds wimpy
controls are not the most user friendly or intuitive (have read owners manual many times, still not sure how everything works)
swing out spare tire often doesn't latch closed, if this happens, it swings out as you start driving away
poor visibilty out rear, in blind spot, and to side (makes life hell trying to merge into traffic from an angle, mirrors useless)
parking brake won't engage

So, overall, my Jimmy has been pretty reasonable maintenance-wise, no major problems with fuel systems, electricals,etc. So, I have been lucky so far and once someone is aware of the Jimmy/Blazer's idiosyncrisies, one can exercise care and get good use out of the vehicle. I bought mine used from a friend who seems to have maintained it excellently (still had new car smell after 7 years, 94,000 km on the odom) and maybe this was one of the best to leave the assembly line, because seems like a solid truck, minor quirks and wear aside. When problems arise, I try to fix them myself first. Good way tolearn about working on cars, although things are pretty crowded under the hood. Changing plugs sounds like it is going to be a major chore, lucky it doesn't need to be done too often.

Where do I start? Oh well-I must say it has been the most problematic vehicle I have ever owned. Geez, my old Ford Pinto which was supposed to be a pile never gave me this many headaches:

1. Heater Core
2. Intake Leak
3. Dex Crap (see 2 and 3)
4. Ball joints (it loves these)
5. Possesed HVAC system (amazing what some vacuum hose and little plastic small engine gas shutoff valves can be made to do when you're sick of throwing money at the CCC system vacuum valve and head units-looks a little hillbillish but I don't care)
6. Fuel pumps
7. Seat recline handles
8. vacuum lines
9. Transfer case vacuum switches

The plus side is the 4.3L and the body both are in really good shape after 135,000 miles.

The down side is that I have WAY MORE in this POS than what it is really worth. Should have stopped months ago but I hate to see a good engine and body go to waste.

I'm sure I missed something. If this is any reflection on GM quality it's a wonder they weren't crying bankruptcy years ago. Can't recall a good GM product madeafter they did away withTBI-both cars and trucks. I've had severalolder GMcars and GM K-Series trucks and never did I have the problems like this-most of these went 200,000 miles and beyond.

Not that TBI was the cure all-I'm just using this as a general time frame as to when quality really went down the drain.

Give me a mid to late seventies Ford or Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 4 speed stick and a 300 or 292-these were the most reliable rigs ever made.

Back Window squeaking! Non-Stop! High Pitch Squeak. Tried everything; replace hinges, lubed, oiled, coated, still there.

Well I found my rattle in the front was the obvious but not really, the ash tray, that was my main rattle, i took it out and put a ashtray delete in place and the rattle went away and now I have an extra power socket.

And the rear shade is another one... I ordered a plain jack cover to replace the shade...

Those were my 2 headaches...

holy... wow...
I didn't realize this was the "lets bash on our blazers until the owners want to commit suicide" Thread...

If you become any more negative you will collapse in on yourself.

ORIGINAL: Byte Stryke

holy... wow...
I didn't realize this was the "lets bash on our blazers until the owners want to commit suicide" Thread...

If you become any more negative you will collapse in on yourself.



Sometimes it helps to vent!!! Lol
I bet that although we all have ISSUES with our Blazers, 99.9% of us still own them!!!
My most recent issue is the cable to the rear seat, it'sbroke (seat wont fold down)and I don't think it's fixable, so I might have to rig it.

List of my quirks....

-Rattling noise coming from engine/dash board. Very hard to trace although lately I haven't heard it or my ear just mutes that sound by itself lol.
-I also have that hood issue. WD40 temporarily fixed it... for a week.
-plastic on the speaker housing on the dash board (under the windshield) is brittle as egg shells. You touch it and it breaks. (overall the plastic is very brittle in this car and degrades faster)
-My driver side window refuses to go up most of the time or usually when I need it (has a mind of its own). Sometimes I have to pull on it to get it to lift, then it stops and I can't lift it as I'm holding down the button. I swear that's annoying.
-Sometimes the door latch that holds the door to the frame when you close, is in the close position when it's open, so when you go to close your door, it bounces right back at you!
-I have to mash on the unlock and lock button numerous times to get the freaking thing to lock or unlock, even when I'm a foot away.

-Last and final quirk. Having a gold color Jimmy. It looks like a blazer. So, when I'm at school or at a store I try to unlock my car, both with the remote and key and nothing works. Turns out it is someone's car! Happened to me recently at a store, where there was one parked next to mine, but I was facing the other car. I have yet to come up to one with an alarm or get yelled at by the owner if they see me lol.

As long as the tranny works, no over heating, no burning oil, and get decent gas mileage, then I'm happy as a clam with it.

Got to tell you that as someone who was considering the purchase of one of these for my son, this thread has caused me to run like the wind!!!!!

Got to tell you that as someone who was considering the purchase of one of these for my son, this thread has caused me to run like the wind!!!!!

Just gotta maintain them guy like EVERYTHING else. Mine's been an OUTSTANDING vehicle.

list of my quirks:
my 94 blazer 4.3 w 4x4 175,000miles,,,,ball joints, a-arm bushings, drag link, pitman arm, head gaskets, transmission, horn button wire, heater controls, many tranfer case vaccuum switches, rear main seal, fuel pump/sending unit, gauge cluster, all the vaccuum hoses twice, console door, rear window latch,

my 96 blazer 4.3 w 4x4 206,000miles,,,,getting ready to put in the second transmission, tp sensor, rear dif, front dif,transfer case vaccuum switch, all vaccuum lines,gotta keep all the grounds clean,factory radio works when it wants to andsometimes the displaydissappears so i turn the radio off and the music keeps playing at the same volume until it decides to turn off, power window switches
the middle, drivers sidespark plug on both are a real nightmare to get to,
and of course brakes/tune ups and fuel/air filters,,,,all this andi keep buying them,,,,

list of quirks
4.3 v-6[sm=sleeping.gif]

-fuel pump
-ball joints were junk went we bought it used
-head lights suck(not bright enought)
-oil lines crack and leak (if your unlucky they will break as ur driving and then sezie up the motor)
-drivers seat is now duct tape

Other than that my 96has been pretty good to me!!

oh ya i forgot my pos heater that still after the 5th fix doesn't work right

ORIGINAL: SY_98Blazer
2 set of Front Wheel Hub/Bearings (Approx $500/HubX 4 = $2K)

Holy crap who ripped you off that's crazy for 4 wheel hubs

not too mention when you blow through a snow mound and take out a fire hydrant and you have to replace the bumper, inpact strip, valence and grille and the next generation air bags dont deploy. freakin blazers

believe GM should have offered a v8 option, along with a lifted option
but despite all the quirks, the Blazer is still the best vehicle I've owned.

I have the broken seatback lever issue my DS door doesn't close tightly but I don't get a rattle I get a constant whistle form the air getting through the Seal. You also forgot the following:

leaking Power Steering lines .. both of mine did is and I've seen several others doing the same thing

Remote Oil Filter Lines .. Already had one break on me but I got lucky ... I know this happens to alot of other people as well.

Leaky rear... replaced the rear gasket 1 month later the front seal started to leak

GM's inability to properly Aim headlights ... Especially on the 95 - 97's (saw a '02 that was traded in at work also had off aim headlights)

The Hazard switch that likes to break it's self off ... both mine had it broken off the 95 had a stock radio and was already broken

The Ball joints the just Failed for no reason ...

oh and a Power Steering Box that skipped a spline

Pass Side Power door lock doesn't work ... ordered a new one got it took it apart and they sent me the wrong one got the old one to work for about a month then it broke again ...

and the Anti-speeding O2 Sensor that will throw a code if your doing like 90 constant for more that 15 minutes lol

But I wouldn't trade it in for anything .... I've had it for over a year and it makes up for its short comings in other areas lol

Rear glass hatch won't open can hear motor but glass won't open.

Had problem with gas gauge but just replaced fuel pump which fixed that.

1997 4dr 4.3

I have a 1999 2dr since 6 years , gas gauge was broken since 4 years , i just fixed it , both seat incliner handle got broken

I just bought a 2000 4dr , because my 99 got alot of miles on it , gas gauge arent working , driver seat incliner handle broken as well , headlight arent aim correctly , are way too high if i compare with my 99 , i tried to fix it myself but isnt going good , i'm thinking to visit dealer to fix it

overall , i wont change either , love blazer

I find on my '86 the hood release and parking brake release are too close together, I can't count how many times I've popped the hood instead of releasing the brake. The one problem I have that is really annoying is self-inflicted. When I put in my new engine I put the oil dip stick tube in at the wrong angle and now to check the oil I need to remove the air cleaner...if not the stick pulls out about 1 1/2" then hits the snorkel part of the air cleaner...pain in the ass!! Other than that it's still pretty tight for being over 22 years old.

I've owned my 1998 Blazer 2WD 4dr for about seven years. Today, I replaced the rear brake pads, including one of the calipers.

Here's my list of personal problems with the Blazer:

broken passenger side recliner lever
air conditioner isn't cold (even after 1000 recharges)
passenger side door leaks during rains then floods floorboard
windshield wipers no longer work
steering is really loose
driver's door won't lock/unlock with power locks
replaced radiator because it was overheating
18 miles per gallon
tires wear out quickly
pain to change spark plugs
vacuum lines are dry rotted
...but it still gets me from A to B. It's a great camping/fishing vehicle.

I've personally had or have

needing to hit the hood after pulling the hood lever to get it to open.
Oil cooler lines separating
Ball joints going bad
Fuel pump giving out.
Passenger front door won't seal at the top. (which causes)
water dripping in that door onto the window switch shorting it out.
Is it a quirk that damnable tire under holder. I prefer the swingouts. and the fact that the full size 235's don't fit right under there (at least on my 95.)
too small rotors warping
Issues trying to do ANY work on the distributor with it being hidden in the back.

edit: OOOOHHH YEAH! The DAMNABLE wiper motor problem. I helped the guys at Blazer Owners make the how-to for everyone there. Don't have that problem on the 95 though.


but haven't had
Any seat back recline levers breaking
rear hatch lever breaking
any problems with the radio (I'm actually using the radio from my 95 grandam I just junked)
Any problem with the spark plugs I don't mind the extra 10 minutes to disconnect the steering column from the gear box. Never been an issue.

you just take that one bolt out of the stearing shaft pull it back a half inch and bingo bango access.

Wow, I looked at some of your guys' problems and couldnt believe that I've had the same problems!

My 01 has 107k on it and it has:

>Poor door hinges, doors rattle on rough roads.
>Steering wheel is beginning to lose its color.
>ABS light warning for no reason!
>Hood release is broken.
>Headlight brackets are a very poor set-up for keepin them in place. GRRR
>Driver-side recline lever is broken.
>Driver-side window is loose and refuses to stay air tight when rolled up.

As far as people complaining about gas mileage... the Blazer is a TRUCK not a car.. You don't buy a truck for gas mileage so why complain about it... and besides I'd kill to have 18mpg, I seriously get 13mpg on average. But hey, the truck has got the largest V6 you can get in ANY vehicle here in the States, not sure about elsewhere.

yeah my fuel gauge bounces too, and i think that my alternator and fuel pump are starting to go cause my blazer chugs when ever i try to start it. And I have had one of my wheel bearings go, and i have tried to get my secondary air pump fixed 3 times and its still not fixed.

What about that damn squeaky rear window latch??? ARRRGGGGHHHHH!! Although a little tape on it is a quick fix for a while:) But worst of all is the loose tilt steering column:mad:

i got most of those problems exept my mirrors broke because im a moron and broke the switch my headlights arent bright and my driver door refuses to unlock but with 221,305 origonal miles how could you complain it still looks and runs good

With my 97, the biggest issues I've had were:
Mirrors are both loose - haven't gotten to that yet
Alternator went - fairly normal
Wiper motor - I just replaced it with an aftermarket one from PartSource
Had to replace the gas tank as well as all the fuel lines - were rotted out along the frame.
Idler arm - Chevy problem to be expected
And after having it parked for almost two years, I have to put shocks on it.

Overall, I'm happy with the truck. All the little quirks are mostly just annoyances rather than major problems, and give me something to do on my days off.

The most annoying problem, is the squeaky rear window...the solution is the cheapest and quickest. Take your tape of choice, mine was electrical tape until it wore out and then it was hockey tape, make a couple of wraps around the U-latch on the window and no more squeaks.
Other problems:
Leaky oil lines between oil filter and oil cooler (the original lines lasted longer than the replacements)
Spark plugs on the drivers side are pretty much impossible to remove
Volt meter always reads high
Goes through batteries pretty quick
Gauges randomly freak out during long road trips
Coolant leaks when it gets below zero and its parked on an uphill slope
Rear window defroster wire is too short

I guess it could be a lot worse though

I just recently replaced my secondary air pump for the 2nd time this year, replaced my fule pump, and also 2 U joints. Lets hope these are the last of the problem that it gives me.

After driving my '97 Bravada for almost 6 months now, some things annoyed me:

-Door Storage Pockets that separate from door panel and rattle over bumps
-Dex-Cool Sludge
-Vanity Mirror Doors Broken, So as to fall off when operating sun visor
-Envelope Straps on Sun Visor Sag
-Cargo Cover whips open when hitting a bump
-Composite headlights are way too dim. After the Quad-Beam Mod, though, they are fine.
-Glovebox (Pre Passenger's Side Airbag Models) rattles against latch... A bit of electrical tape wrapped around latch worked fine.
-Rear Wiper Motor uses plastic gears, they always get stripped of teeth.
-Power Mirror Switch's plastic support underneath it breaks, causing switch to fall into the trim hole.
-Window Switch/Lock Illumination doesn't work
-Window Lockout Switch breaks. I jumped two wires from the switch, so it is bypassed permanently.
-Screw Tabs on dash speaker grilles break, causing the grilles to rattle when driving over bumps
-Leather seats rub against center console cover causing a rubbing noise...
-G80 Posi-Trac Rear ends are known to self-destruct...

...And I still love this truck to death...

Nick

Anyone else have trouble with their gas guage fluxuating? That happened around 90K. Alternator went out around 80K, fron wheel bearings and ball joints around 60K, fuel pump just before 100K, 4x4 went out around 75K.
haha this all happend to me right around the same times..... i have a 99 i think my fuel pump is going and im and coming up to 100k its maken a loud hum noise. my seats are wearing out from getting in and out.

haha this all happend to me right around the same times..... i have a 99 i think my fuel pump is going and im and coming up to 100k its maken a loud hum noise. my seats are wearing out from getting in and out.

If you jump around in your seat, the gauge moves back and forth :D We also have a 99 in our house, and the fuel pump makes the noise as well.

How about the push button 4 wheel drive? I have a 99 s-10 blazer LT and had the actuator replaced, Less than a year later it's not working again.

My personal experiences...

Brake lines on top of frame rails rust out.
Anti-stop brakes. I never fail to roll right past my mailbox in wintertime if there is the slightest bit of packed snow or ice on the road (why do I stop better with cars that don't have anti-lock brakes?)
New fuel system from gas cap/filler neck to fuel filter.
Remote oil lines... replaced twice
Going onto my third a/c compressor.
Rebuilt the faulty connectors/wiper motor circuit board myself.
Intake manifold gasket was leaking out the backside.
Front door pins/bushings need replacing. Any shift in trucks position makes the doors squawk and groan.
Sideview mirrors shake in the wind.
Hole worn in drivers seat. Appears to be a metal bar inside that wears thru.
Heater blower motor needs replacing.
Heater fan speed switch needs replaced.
anti-lock brake sensor was rubbing on hub, thought I had a hub ready to give out until I pulled my brake rotor off and saw the sensor... pried the sensor away from the hub and the dry squeak went away.

Had an '88 Blazer before this one.
Rear trannymount, balljoints, fuel pump, remote oil filter lines and 4x4 vacuum switch got the most attention.

meh my two problems are the whole damn truck squeaks and there are no holes in the flippin firewall for my amp :mad:

97 blazer 4x4 4 dr.

transmission lost 1st and o.d. and leaked all over,
transfer case chain failure,
vaccum actuator for front diff rotted out,
lots of steering play,
transfer case selector motor died yesterday
i hit a branch on the mirror and instead of folding it broke clear off
i absolutley hate these elect, trannys next i will be goiing with the edelbrock 4bbl manifold and a demon 4bbl carb, and a th350 and a newly built manual select left side transfer case. i say f**k fuel injection and f**k elect trannys. just stick to the tried and true!,
simplicity means reliability and reliability means not walking home!

dont even get me started there are more rattles sweeks cluncks ticks pops and knocks in my truck then imagineable it appears they come from everywhere i guess

How about dash lights? i'm on my second blazer in a row and in both the lights behind the stereo setting buttons burned out one by one and the burnt bulbs slowly progress across the dashboard over time. Also in both Trucks I needed to replace the Universal joints on the rear driveshaft of my 4x4, and I do not abuse the truck.

Mine has a lot of littler quirks, but the one that bugs me the most is that annoying back glass leak, about once every 4 years I have to swap hinges and seal because it will mysteriously start leaking and it comes from nowhere in particular

I've only had my '03 (66k) for a couple of months and for the most part it has been doing well. Power window works, no broken handles, no leaks(knock on wood). I do have the occassional loud sucking sound coming from the engine occassionaly when starting out, and I do have many plastic-on-plastic squeaks and rattles. The passenger mirror sticks and It also rides reals rough in pot holes and on speed bumps..looking to replace the shocks. other than that, it is going to my mechanic next week to see what evil lies beneath!!!

dont even get me started there are more rattles sweeks cluncks ticks pops and knocks in my truck then imagineable it appears they come from everywhere i guess

Yep, that's a pretty good summary for mine too.

dont even get me started there are more rattles sweeks cluncks ticks pops and knocks in my truck then imagineable it appears they come from everywhere i guess

I guess that's what happens when the whole interior is clamped, snapped, clicked, and popped into place. Instead of using screws and bolts.

my frigging cargo cover will not stay in place

How about those F&^%$IN power window motors that keep going out that are mounted with heavy-duty aircraft grade rivets? How am I suppose to pull the ones in the wrecking yard without power tools at my side?

Why do the power window motors go out so frequently?

Anti-stop brakes. I never fail to roll right past my mailbox in wintertime if there is the slightest bit of packed snow or ice on the road (why do I stop better with cars that don't have anti-lock brakes?)

That's generally an indication that you have a clue as to how to use brakes. ABS is primarily for people who panic easily and can't remember to modulate the brakes when traction becomes an issue.

no abs is to allow you to be able to steer in a panic stop instead of driving straight into an object

no abs is to allow you to be able to steer in a panic stop instead of driving straight into an object

If you're modulating the brakes properly, you'll be able to steer without ABS. "Panic" stopping is a sign that you need more practice at driving in general.

hmm lets see my fuel gauge doesnt work properly, windows take forever to go down, compresser doesnt work no A/C, front door speakers stopped working, and my center consol squeeks all the time sure its a 96 but its only got 105k on it

* Power (http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5771#) mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

how do you fix that leak?? The weather striping is in good condition. At first i thought it was leaking at the frame because the glue came off and there was a big gap. So i got some new glue and glued the weatherstriping to the frame again, and now its even worst then it was.

I just dont see how its coming in.

bought a 2000 blazer used and both my seat back levers were broken so the guy i bought it from gave me 2 sets of vice grips to use for the lever. works great haha

whenever you have all the time in the world, the blazer starts EVERY time, but when you are in a hella hurry, she takes 10 minutes to start



just happened..............like it does every time when Im in a hurry

The only problems we have had is piston slapping engine(second one) heater core, fuel pump, radiator & front disc pads.
Great truck. 121,000 miles, 1997 Blazer 4x4 4dr.

my ball joint seperated on a 4 lane divided highway.

* Power (http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5771#) mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

how do you fix that leak?? The weather striping is in good condition. At first i thought it was leaking at the frame because the glue came off and there was a big gap. So i got some new glue and glued the weatherstriping to the frame again, and now its even worst then it was.

I just dont see how its coming in.



your door hinge pins are shot. my 93 used to leak on the passenger side, but with a new set of hinge pins, it lifted the door enough that the door hits the weather strip now.....

just a thought

your door hinge pins are shot. my 93 used to leak on the passenger side, but with a new set of hinge pins, it lifted the door enough that the door hits the weather strip now.....

just a thought

Cheap fix ($12 / door) but grab a buddy to help you stabilize that door.

* Power (http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5771#) mirror switch started to operate sporatically, but now, not at all because rain falls directly on it.

If the hinge pin stops the leak, try pulling the mirror controls out, taking them apart, and cleaning all the contacts with rubbing alcohol, then a pencil eraser. It worked for mine after an idiot mechanic left it parked outside in the pouring rain with the windows down.

Wow I feel like a winner, We've got everyone one of the problems listed and then some, terriffic

my ball joint seperated on a 4 lane divided highway.


Bad Maintenance.

Bad Maintenance.
not when you just had them replaced 200 miles ago. and blazers are known for complete ball joint seperation. not in my case though. shouldnt ever happen with in 200

ok lets see
1 bad fuel sender
2 seatback levers broken off [(both sides) fixed the problems with a set of vise grips]
3 rear window squeaks
4 intake manifold gasket failure(just got fixed)
5 fuel pump went bad(getting fixed now)
6 door hinges bad
7 warped rear rotors
8 windshield defroster vent cover cracked (looking for a new one)
9 trim panels around rear windows wearing down due to florida sun damage(as soon as i get it back im sanding primeing and painting them)
10 drivers side window motor shuts off sporadically
11 blew a fuse in my power locks by hitting the rear latch release
12 FPR went bad(fixed that myself)
13 transmission whines
14 since im a smoker and i smoke when im driving if it rains my leg gets soaked as well as my mirror switch and window control cuz of the wierd angle of the windows
15 heater core leaks so had to bypass it (and im going to Dallas in November with no heat should be fun)
but other than that nothing at all wrong with it and even with all these issues ill still buy another one

just bought a 2003 blazer 4wd...aftermarket stereo picks up engine noise, and the lights flicker alot...not sure if it's a stereo issue or the dimmer switch or maybe the alternator...it had 125k mi and still runs pretty good. I just hope it wasn't an unwise purchase. Oh yeah, what is up with the whole interior rattling like it's gonna fall apart every time I hit a bump? Oh yeah, it's a chevy lol

Bought my '95 3 months ago with 104,000 miles on it. It had the following issues:

-leaky front seal on the transmission
-leaky rear output shaft on the transfer case
-bad ball joints
-leaky windshield grommet on the top (silicone fixed that)
-rattling passenger front, and drivers rear door cards (still there)
-clogged/stuck open EGR
-power mirrors do not work (don't care)
-Freon low (not leaking though)
-original cap and rotor (no really)
-drivers side pleather seat torn all to hell
-worn front brake pads
-oil pressure gauge bounces all over the place at idle...some sort of electrical issue I think

Everything else is in awesome shape for the year. The interior is nearly new looking. The Eaton G80 locker even still works =P

just bought a 2003 blazer 4wd...aftermarket stereo picks up engine noise, and the lights flicker alot...not sure if it's a stereo issue or the dimmer switch or maybe the alternator...it had 125k mi and still runs pretty good. I just hope it wasn't an unwise purchase. Oh yeah, what is up with the whole interior rattling like it's gonna fall apart every time I hit a bump? Oh yeah, it's a chevy lol

engine noise, just fixed mine, upgrade the ground behind deck and on the battery. mine is gone. also if you have an amp(s) turn down the gain and upgrade the ground as well...ad a cap if necessary.

as for my issues, ive had her for about a month, shes an 03 jimmy zr2! bought it certified (safetied) which was just upper front ball joints and just noticed that ebrake is unhooked somewhere and getting fixed monday.

my swing away tire rack rattles over any bump, so i took the tire off and its gone. i actually chased down another 2nd gen zr2 to ask him if his did it. yup said to grab some electrical tape and wrap the latch point once a year lol. so thats next.

wet passenger side floor. found out that when i installed my amps, my 0 gauge wire was put through where the antenna wire is and i forgot to reinstall a grommet.

driver door leaks and thanks to this thread i may have a way to fix it. new hinges because mine creek and squeak when i open them all the way. so new door hinge pins!

i love her so far, couldn't ask for anything better right now!

Anyone else have trouble with their gas guage fluxuating? That happened around 90K. Alternator went out around 80K, fron wheel bearings and ball joints around 60K, fuel pump just before 100K, 4x4 went out around 75K.


yup... got the gas guage fluxuating thing... seems like it got better when it got colder... its kindaaaa annoying

yup... got the gas guage fluxuating thing... seems like it got better when it got colder... its kindaaaa annoying
its the fuel sending unit. on 2nd gens the fuel pump and the sending unit are one piece. so in order to replace one you have to replace the other. worst part is gettin the tank down. ac delco replacement cost around $400. but id replace it with something cheaper that isnt ac delco cause chances are it will work alot better

its the fuel sending unit. on 2nd gens the fuel pump and the sending unit are one piece. so in order to replace one you have to replace the other. worst part is gettin the tank down. ac delco replacement cost around $400. but id replace it with something cheaper that isnt ac delco cause chances are it will work alot better
Well... The sending unit is available separately...

Replacing the pump with a cheaper, lesser aftermarket brand is a sure way to end up replacing the pump again in the near future, but do what you think is best.

my rear hatch dosen't open but the glass still works in my 87'

Well... The sending unit is available separately...

Replacing the pump with a cheaper, lesser aftermarket brand is a sure way to end up replacing the pump again in the near future, but do what you think is best.

x2 on that i put my father in charge of ordering my fuel pump back in january and he ordered a cheap aftermarket pump, so now just 8 months later he had to fork out 800 bucs to have the Delco pump put in. i could have done the work myself but i figured make him pay to have someone do it since he didnt bother ordering the right pump in the first place.

Hi All, this is my first post. Most of it's been covered. But here's the problems I've had with my 4X4 Blazer w/ 250K New Jersey miles on it:

- Badly leaking oil filter relocator hose
- Busted idler pulley (rusted through then failed)
- Front doors are about to fall off...and there's some weird black tar looking stuff under them???
- Power windows are slow as hell
- Power locks are about to fail...they're not traveling as much as they used to
- Have to really slam the back glass to get it to latch
- Had to drop the whole gas tank to replace the sending unit due to terribly rusted lines (and the front two strap bolts were rust-locked...so I just took the back two out and bent the **** out of them, letting the tank slide out the back)
- The exhaust is a straight-pipe because of high corrosion up North.

The girlfriend likes it...

jesus i thought i was the only one lol, mirror switch went up due to leak, doors rattle ajar, broken backrest lever, brakes wear like crazy(switched to ceramic n no problems)... all around nice truck, runs fine, just too many little annoying dumb things

super-t21632: click this (http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36318) and all of the issues you mentioned are addressed.

most annoying thing in the world!

2nd gens its a one piece fuel pump and sending unit..take a look in that tech manual of yours :)

Don't forget that with power locks, sooner or later one of the doors will refuse to open! (Mine is passenger side rear) Does make it fun to try and watch the kiddies open it when they forget....

Can that be fixed

yes. clean the terminals. alcohol and an eraser, shine up the ends good, and grease with conductive grease. should get you back in the game. You can also score a switch at a junkyard for like $2....

yep...

drivers seat back handle.. broke...

lucky its in the perfect position lol

My hatch opening button on the back does not seem to want to work 100% of the time now, unless I am pressing down on the window when I press the button. Happened pretty spontaneously.

Also it just took me about 13 tries to pop the hood. I have sprayed it countless times with silicon spray but it does not seem to affect it.

Any suggestions?

I used a go through socket and wrench set to get the plug out; but the cheap sparkplug socket with the hex on end is good idea too, also dont forget to add if something goes wrong with back hatch or battery goes dead theres no manual way to open the back up and if the latch goes bad good luck opening it up to fix it it was a nightmare cant get pannels off if you cant open hatch lol!

well, I have a leaky spider injector, so I have to prime it everytime I start, The driver side window decided to not roll up one day, and I spent literally 30 minutes getting it to roll all the way up, hasn't happened in a while(knock on wood). Loud squeaks when I stop(probably brake pads), and my front end pops when I turn to my locks, really want to get that fixed. Other than that, nothing major, hopefully it stays that way.(again, knock on wood)
ALSO! I decided to pull one of my headlights out(dumbass), now it sits too high, as in, it touches my hood, and I had to re-aim the damn thing.

squeaky hatch ___ fixed it with electrical tape

I've had to take my truck to the dealer 4 times just for the radio. (The first time was to get it ordered, the sec. time to get it installed, third to get it reordered, and the fourth to get that one installed. (In a span of like a month and a half)[:@]
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Fuel Pump,

back speakers took a dump and the trim that cover the jack with the cargo area cover on my 00 jimmy keeps poping loose. i do not know what is worse that or the back window sqeaking

^^^ all of that can be fixed.
clicky (http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36318)

My hood doesn't open but maybe 1/10 times. Every time I pull the lever and it doesn't open i have to go push down on the hood for it to re-latch, then try it again and hope it opens.

again see that link. i have dropped off on compiling that, but hope to get going again. as for now all of those issues (your and gmc004x4) are covered in there.

Well with 170,722 Miles...here's my list
- Intake manifold gasket leak.
-two fuel pump replacements.
-came home from Iraq...Drivers side door fell off (In parking lot of the airport)
-Passanger side reclining lever snapped off
-motor mounts (both of 'em) broke
-#3 Plug a PIMA to change
-side gear (driverside) in differential stripped
-DEXCOOL mixed with prestone= gelled up system (takes for ever to flush out)
-Blower motor lost high speed (4)
-power mirror on driver side busted (Won't move)
-ambiant temp (overhead cosole) never worked
- Both Vanity mirror covers on sunvisors broke off.

I have never been a Chevy man...But I love my truck. 132,722 miles on it in six years...never had a ford stay together this well!!!

I assume we are talking about S-10s. I had the intake manifold bolt loosen and the engine ( 2.8 V6 ) swallowed all the water. Before I found the problem I asked the guys at the Chevy Store what happened and had they experienced that problem before. They told me that they had replaced several engines because of that and they "gussed" it was just a common problem. When when we took off the manifold to look for the cause we noticed that the left center bolt on the manifold was loose. That was where we found the leak. This engine had never had a wrench on it from the day it left the factory. The bolt had to be tightened with a box end wrench. A socket would not go there, no room. I guess that the guys at the factory just got tired of trying to torque those "hard to get at" particular bolts. Other than that I really can't complain. I just rode them hard and put them up wet.

^^^ yeah most of the problems listed are for the 2 gens (S10 blazers 95+) but a few early 90's rides and a handful of K5s are represented here. Vast majority is 2 gens though

I've a 97 4dr. Yea, the drivers door needed new pins and bushings because it rained inside the door because it was so loose from the worn bushings, yea the rear view mirror bolt is broke and flaps in the wind, yea there's a goofy rattle in the front right side of the dash/ firewall I need xray vision to find, and other various squeaks and rattles in the back from god knows where, but I still love my "Little Green Blazer", lol. There not a Ferrarri by any means, but a Chevrolet....'Last long time but with many repairs along the way'. And yes the plug behind the steering column is a B-I-T-C-H to get out, took me 30min. and 4 different tools altogether,lol. Chevrolet All The Way!!!

I've a 97 4dr. Yea, the drivers door needed new pins and bushings because it rained inside the door because it was so loose from the worn bushings, yea the rear view mirror bolt is broke and flaps in the wind, yea there's a goofy rattle in the front right side of the dash/ firewall I need xray vision to find, and other various squeaks and rattles in the back from god knows where, but I still love my "Little Green Blazer", lol. There not a Ferrarri by any means, but a Chevrolet....'Last long time but with many repairs along the way'. And yes the plug behind the steering column is a B-I-T-C-H to get out, took me 30min. and 4 different tools altogether,lol. Chevrolet All The Way!!!

You know i bought my 2001 zr2 blazer for $2200 and have since spent $5000 more. $7200 seems to be a little price to pay for how much i love my truck. Plus repairs are fun. I love the positive attitude towards all the problems. Any vehicle that is 5-15 years old is gonna have problems. and we are all out there representing a great brand that (normally) stands behind there products

List of Complaints:
New Radiator
New Intake Manifold Gasket
New idler arm
Squeaks alot but who cares?

Overall this isn't much for how much i love my truck

Also, GM is an amazing company, they have been going through all there bankruptcy troubles but still manage to support my robotics team with 10-20k every year!

i replaced the balljoints but the worst was the fuel pump needed replaced a month after the first ones 1 year warranty ran out

I have 139k miles on my 2001 blazer all by me. I've taken care of it in the sense that I don't drive it hard, slam on the breaks/gas, etc. But little things are starting to go wrong and I'm starting to freak out a little bit, because I do drive a lot.

- Driver side window doesn't roll down
- Need a tune-up, but can't fathom doing the belts, hoses and plugs.
- Fuel gauge has a mind of it's own. I never know how much gas I have unless I count the mileage

This sucker has been a champ for me for 8 years, can't really complain whatsoever, but I do worry about the little things going on with it. I have read most of the previous posts, but still need a better understanding of how to get to those plugs... a step by step would be great. I bought a manual and it sucks immensely.

'99 4x4 4.3L automatic (dash/button-shift 4 wheel dr) 4 door - 178K mi (all mine, most highway)

Replaced:

Upper/lower ball joints
Right/left wheel bearings
2 fuel pumps
Water pump
New transmission
Tensioner pulley
2 serpentine belts
Radiator
Additional tranny radiator (now mounted externally in front)
Many front end parts
2 windshields (highway sandblasting)
2 Alternators
Starter
Gas gauge shows empty/red line when it actually still has ~1/4+ fuel remaining
Driver's door re-pinned
Driver's seat lumbar

Of course - brakes/plugs/et al

Both front seat recliner handles broken (long ago); both visor mirror cover door/flaps with broken hinges (now held in place with mini bungee cords).

Engine runs like a champ - no issues. Reasonable gas mileage. Pwr windows work fine, radio fine, auto/motorized driver's seat adjust works fine. Upholstery fine. Dash fine - unfaded/cracked/aged.

Entire truck rattles - 'clunky' thumps/knocks from under driver's side 'neath-the-dash/right front wheel well area (can't find it). General body rattles.

The body is in good/very good shape physically - dings here/there, only visible close up.

I don't often pull a trailer, but I regularly haul a lot of relatively heavy music gear - no issues. We have a 600+ acre 'farm' which is mostly limestone slickhills with various 'jeep'-roads which I traverse just fine; dry creek beds, wet water/creek crossings, ridge-top roads, etc, - no issues.

It's been paid for for many years and it still looks good - but I'd really like to have the rattles/bump-noises gone; I'm not a mechanic and don't have the tools/experience to address these issues myself.

I'm glad to have found this forum - I've been reading here for two or three yrs and appreciate the wealth of knowlege I've found here. Thanks to all.

The only annoying thing I have is a loud hum, sounds like a fan, when the truck starts up. No idea what it could be, but it goes away after like 15 seconds.

Mine also does that but only sometimes... and it usually goes away after i get over about 20-25 mph...

You ever find that rattle in the lower right dash area, u give me a holler. I'll pay ya for the answer, lol. I can't for the life of me find mine either. I'm gunna pull the dash this weekend hoping to solve it. I wish I had the enthusiasiam to find all the others too, they drive me nuts!!

You ever find that rattle in the lower right dash area, u give me a holler. I'll pay ya for the answer, lol. I can't for the life of me find mine either. I'm gunna pull the dash this weekend hoping to solve it. I wish I had the enthusiasiam to find all the others too, they drive me nuts!!

Yeah - I'd like to have more time to tinker/be more serious about my own maintenance; but I'm sure as hell not pulling my dash off! Take care.

I read through the first few post but then stopped so i dunno if this has been said or not but does anyone else have a problem with their door alarm going off randomly? It only does it when its cold. After about 5-10 minutes of driving it quits. But in the summer it doesnt do it at all!

Anyone know how to fix it besides removing the fuse or the little button thing that registers the door closed?


As of right now this is how I got it fixed lol
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc293/jonroberts182/Mobile%20Uploads/0101001448b.jpg

Mine also does that but only sometimes... and it usually goes away after i get over about 20-25 mph...
The Clutch on the fan engages if the truck was sitting for a while. It frees up after a few seconds, though. Mine does it, too. I'm pretty sure most Blazers do it.

Anyone else have trouble with their gas guage fluxuating? That happened around 90K. Alternator went out around 80K, fron wheel bearings and ball joints around 60K, fuel pump just before 100K, 4x4 went out around 75K.

your lucky yours still works, mine only works to about half a tank and then its completely useless, ive been using the trip meter to figure out how much gas i have, and now thats going in and out as it pleases depending on how many bumps i hit. anyone else have the issue where the led display for the gear and odometer go on and off? is it as simple as changing out the cluster or am i in over my head? also, if i change out the cluster, will the odometer still read the same or is the mileage saved in the cluster memory? also, my trip meter likes to reset itself so now i have to write down the mileage thats on it whenever i turn the car off so that i know how much gas i have in case it resets.

Mine seems to be "ok" while driving. But when I stop at a redlight or cut the truck off it goes nuts. Otherwise its fine.

Mine seems to be "ok" while driving. But when I stop at a redlight or cut the truck off it goes nuts. Otherwise its fine.

well from what im told, from a very trustworthy mechanic friend, a fluttering gas gauge (which is what mine is doing) on the blazer generally means the fuel pump is gonna go soon. unfortunately its a $300 fix which might be hard for me to find being a college student.

anyone else have a strange grinding noise coming from the torque conveter/ tranny? only happens when the truck is in first gear under load. i think my torque converter is going to hell but im told that the blazer doenst really put out enough power to destroy a torque converter, which leads me to believe its the transmission.

on the rear hatch i have found a way to fix the annoying squeak that it makes.... the blazer series dont have any kind of latch tightner like other vehicles so you have to take the hatch and heat it up and bend it inward

my cd player skips every time i hit a bump

my cd player skips every time i hit a bump

Its funny no one mentioned the rust that blazers collect. i live in jersey and i haven't seen a blazer without rust yet. my blazers nickname is rusty, lol.

you must not have read through this very far.....
while the majority here are covering 2 gen issues, the rusting abilities have been noted a number of times :D