I had to replace my hub assemble this weekend. Thought of you all and took a few pics. My wife thinks I am nuts for taking the pics, however I told her you guys would want to see them.

First stop, a quailty hub assemble. This unit is made by Timken. IMHO Timken makes the best bearings. This unit costs $182 at my local Autozone. They carry less costly units if your interested. This unit also has a new ABS sensor and a new ABS wire with harness.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256298.jpg
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256299.jpg

Break the lug nuts loose, unless you have air tools.
Jack the truck up and place a jack stand under it.
To test the bearings, wobble the tire back and forth and up and down. rotate it too. If your reading this, no doubt someone has told you you need to replace the hub assemble. SO I will skip the rest of the diagnostics.

Jack stands in place?
Take the tire off.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256300.jpg


You will have to take the brake caliper off. GM uses both torx bits and regular bolts to hold the caliper on, make sure you have the right tool for the job. Also take the brake caliper bracket off and disconnect the ABS sensor wireing. I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to the top brake caliper bracket bolt.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256301.jpg


Use a 36mm socket and take the cv axle nut off. I took my time here. I sprayed the threads with PB Blaster, unscrewed it some, sprayed and screwed it back on. Sprayed some more and unscrewed it some more. I would sparay on both sides of the nut to help clean all the rust off. You'll notice I still haven't removed the brakes yet.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256302.jpg


Notice the washer behind the nut.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256303.jpg

18mm wrench is what you need to remove the three bolts holding the hub asemble in place. I don't have a 18mm wrench so I used a socket with a wrench adapter. You could also use a 18mm wobble socket, however I dont have one of those either. Thought I did, but couldn't find it.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256305.jpg


To gain extra leverage you can stack wrenches. Carefull, you can bust some knuckles if they slip. Notice the wire holding my brake caliper in the air. Never let your calipers hang by the brake hose. Also notice the ABS snesor wire laying on the ground. I had to remove three bolts to get it free, and there is a quick pin on the bottom of thw wiring harness that stubs into the frame to hold the connector in place behind the rubber splash shield.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256304.jpg

Once the three bolts are out. Beat on the cv axle with a hammer to loosen it and drive it back some. PB Blaster sprayed on both sides helps break the rust bond between the hub and shaft. Now take a cold chisel and drive it between the hub assemble and the steering knuckle. It will pop the hub assemble out.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256306.jpg

Hub assemble removed.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256307.jpg

Mine has a rubber gasket around the hub assemble. I put it on the new unit, my thumb is on it in the pic. I fought with that thing and wish I would have left it off.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Hanr2/256308.jpg


Installation is reverse of removeal. Dont forget the dust shield.
That pretty well covers it.
Post up thoise questions.

A couple of membersmade some recommendations.
Use anti-seize on the cv axle splines where it mates with the hub assemble.
Useanti-seize on the

In case your wondering.
The truck has 130,000 miles on it. It still has all the original ball joints, you can see the top one in the pic. Notice the rivets instead of bolts holding it in place. Actually the truck has all the original everything except for that hub assemble and the tranny was rebuilt 10 months ago.

I bought the hub assemble last summer. I heard all the stories about how hte hub assembles fail early. So I bought one when I had some extra coin and they were on sale.6 months later, the old hub assemble would still be on there, except I picked up a nasty wobble in my steering wheel couple ofdays after the snow storm. I figuredall the driving around on the ice and pushing poeple around all day in the snow finally did a bearing in. NOPE.AFTER I replaced the hub assembleI was rolling my tire back so I could put it back on the truck. My hand felt a bump on the tire andI was like oh crap. I knew right then I could have saved myself 2 hours worth of work had I stuck to the basics first and checked my tires.I busted a belt in my tire.Fortunately the 30" BFG All-Terrains are on sale now at my local tire shop. I paid $125 each, plus all the extras.The good isI was planning on replaceing the fronts in 2-3 months anyway. The backs were replacedlast spring.

One other thing. For those of you with keen eyes who noticed I was missing a nut on top of my anti-sway bar. Good job!!!!
I noticed it while I was greasing up my ball joints.

Probably could have coated the rubber gasket with grease and set it into the hole the axle was protruding from, it looks like there was a groove machined in the mounting surface for the gasket and it would not have mucked around falling off of the new hub....LoL (look into the photo wear the rubber gasket is laying on the axle)

Hanr3, you should just start up a Blazer repair school!
Good post.
My only question is ( quote, "I fought with that thing and wish I would have left it off.") Are you talking about the "O" ring? I just use a little vaseline or silicone dielectric when I have to asseble stuff with rubber "O" rings

This post should be redone and place in the DIY section.

Nice write up on it, I would had put some anti-sez on the axle shaft when putting it back together. It holds so much moisture in there its very prone to rust and sometime lock in place. Also should add to disconnect the ABS line before attmepting to pull things appart. I have found so many that have snapped those wires due to they don't do that first. Also adding anti-sez to the Torque bolts that hold the bearing assembly in place (only 3 of them).

This post will be placed in the DIY section, but what do you think needs to be redone?

Just redone due to most in the How-To section don't have added replys under them.

That is all

Oh ok. That's what I do when I put them in there. I like to leave them here in the general section so anything that is unclear or needs changing/updating can occur before I put them into the DIY section.

That is great, but will help those looking for a quick read to find it in the How-to section, can just add a note to it saying active thread in General if have questions :D

I already had that thought and was trying to implement a sub-section of the DIY section for comments/concerns about the DIY articles. This sub-section would be for article submissions as well as any changes to current articles. We just have to work out the details.

Great write-up Tim! Sorry for travelling offtopic a bit.. I'll get it cleaned up and placed in the DIY section when I get a chance.

Blazer repair school. Thanks for the compliment.

The anti-sieze is a good idea, and I totally forgot about it. Anti-siezewhere the cv axles splines slide into the hub assemble, and put anti-sieze onthe hub assemble bolts (3), and the lug studs (5).
I also like the idea of greasing up the rubber o-ring.
One other thing is die-electric grease on the ABS sensor harness.

Excellent tips guys.

I don't see anything wrong with sticking the whole thread in DIY, or just the first one with a link to this thread for the tips recommended and any Q&A. Swart, I leave it in your hands. What ever you think is best. Let me know if I need to modify anything. Or copy and paste as you see fit.

I think my next one will be on how I flushed my coolant system. Did that on Sunday during half time. Or should I do it on replacing aheadlight bulb?One of mine burnt out last night.:D

Edit: I went back and added the tips to the original post.

Can't tell you how helpful this was. Got the job done in under three hours and I'm not a mechanic in no way. I'm a computer programmer... don't know a thing in the world about vehicles. The post was great.

Thanks.

Good to see not only us GearHead Garage, Back Yard Mechanics and/or Service Techs can help out those who like to do their own work. Congrats to the Computer Tech[sm=pcwhack.gif] that is venturing into yet another Self Help wrencher [sm=happybounce.gif]

That's what we're here for! Congrats on the successful repair! And I will get around to putting this into the DIY section at some point... Ah heck, I'll do it now...

[sm=Flahssssss.gif]ORIGINAL: swartlkk

That's what we're here for! Congrats on the successful repair! And I will get around to putting this into the DIY section at some point... Ah heck, I'll do it now...


[sm=admin.gif]Wondered when you were going to do this

I have been so busy lately it isn't even funny. I have had the whole week between Christmas and New Years off work, but I haven't stopped working on my house at any one point. To make matters worse, I have a ton of stuff to finish up before I go back to work tomorrow and I picked up some kind of stomach bug that started causing all sorts of issues Saturday and still lingers... Fun fun! LOL Oh well, I'll survive.

Sorry to see that the Flu bug is catching up to you. I understand being over loaded. It's no fun.
DOH, dont remind me of house work. I have a load of Renovations still left to do on mine. And that does not include the Holliday clean up SHHEEESH I even have crap from the neighbors party all over my yard.

Does anyone know of a goodauto parts storein Ontario, Canada where they sell the hub replacement assembly like the model shown for this thread? I would like to go with that Timken unit but I'm unsure if there's an Autozone around. Near me is a Canadian Tire and Car Quest and I don't want to buy one from a dealership because I'm sure they are around 300-400 dollars. Any info appreciated on price and location.

On the Auto Zone website, they say that Canadian customers can call 800-288-6966 to place an order.

It may be worth calling to see how bad the shipping cost would be.

I just replaced both of mine with new Timkens from auto zone, and they were a little different than the ones in this post. The 96 model has a different ABS design, so a new sensor is not included. I am guessing that is why they were cheaper... $134 each.

Call CarQuest too. TIMKEN is the manufacture and they have more then one distriburtor. I got mine from a midwest chain called Blain's Farm & Fleet. Its a farmers type store. They sell clothes, shoes, toys, housewares, autoparts, farm supplies like fencing, live stock feed, live chicks, guns & ammo, fishing stuff, bikes, trailers, sheds,parts for tractors, car stereos, tires, welders, tools, etc.

You can look up a local distributor on thier website

http://www.timken.com/timken_ols/bearings/distribution/distribute.asp

Great How to Hanr3.
Timken's are the best, We will only use Timken bearing's onour locomotives at work.

Thanks.
Yea, I am a diehard Timken user as well. Sure they cost more, however they last longer and offer a smoother operation the most others.

That's a nice write up. Good to mention the anti-sieze. Makes things easier next time.

Hi Tim - thanks for the pics! What were the clues that something was going wrong with the hub? I have 85K on my '99 Blazer and just wondering. Also what is your mileage?

Teh signs of a failing hub assemble, bearings are.
Un even tire wear.
Drifting.
Pulls to one side.
Grinding noise in turns at first, eventually all the time.
Some or all of them may happen.
To check the bearings.
Jack the tire off the ground. Grab it in the 3-9 o'clock positions and rock it back and forth.
Do the same with the 12-6 o'clock positions, and rock it up and down. You will feel the tire move. Up and down movement is almost always the bearings. Have someone look at the tie rods ends, idler arms, and ball joints while you rock itto rule them out.

Most alignemnet shops will do free front end inspections. Also if the beaings are shot, it wont easliy align. The machine will keep blouncing around and a decent tech will know there is a problem.

Great how-to - verrrrry nice. Getting ready to do it to my new ride - 2000 LT 4x4. Just wondering what y'all think of the Autozone Dynapak bearing assemblies. The $90 difference per pair over the Timkens is tempting to my budget and they have the same 12mo warranty.

Don't know about hte Dynapacks yet. I just put one in my Mother-In-Laws car. We'll see how it holds up. Then again she hardly drives anywhere so it might out live her.

ORIGINAL: sintrigue

Can't tell you how helpful this was. Got the job done in under three hours and I'm not a mechanic in no way. I'm a computer programmer... don't know a thing in the world about vehicles. The post was great.

Thanks.


Hey - I'm a computer programmer too, and I've found that if you apply the same troubleshooting skills that you use in your job, you can be very successful at figuring out problems with your vehicle too. Welcome to the Forum!

Raphael

I make the 3rd computer programmer to complete this task due to this tutorial. Thank you! I did encounter a few hassles along the way, but nothing major.

1. The middle bracket that holds the ABS sensor wire was a pain. The nut was frozen on the bolt and the whole thing just spun free. Hit it with some WD-40 to help it along. Trying to get a small wrench behind the control arm so I could hold the bolt while ratcheting the nut off without seeing it gave me some grief, but I got it out with a little persistance.

2. Getting the new hub assembly seated back on the axle was the toughest part. First, I wiped the splines clean, then applied anti-sieze. The whole assembly would go no farther than1/4 of an inch. I ended up putting the axle washer and nut on by hand, then had to slowly tighten the nut with the 36mm socket to get it seated. That took the longest. After that it really is as easy as putting bolts into holes and tightening them.

The symptoms I experienced tofigure out it was the wheel bearing was the constant "hum-hum-hum" and grinding sound, as well as my ABS kicking in a little at the end of stops. Thanks to this forum, I was able to test it by jacking the front up and doing the 12-6 push-pull test. The whole thing was loose with lots of play. I'm glad the wheel didn't just pop off while my wife was driving around with my daughter in the back.

After getting it all together, I did the test again. There's a small amount of play at 3 and 9, is that normal? Anyway, I test drove it and it was nice and smooth, no sounds, and the ABS didn't kick in again.

PS. I used the Timken from Autozone. ($185) and sorry about the long post!

It was a good post full of usefull information that other computer nerds might need to know about.:D

Glad I was able to help you all out. Also glad you all understood it enough that you felt comfortable to tackle this one on your own.

Yes a slight wobble in the 3-9 test is normal. It's mostly due to slop/play in the steering linkage. If it gets too excessive you need someone to look at each ball joint, each tierod, and the pitman/idler arms holding the steering linkage in place. Clues that it is getting too lose ywould be drifting around on the highway, constantly turning the wheel from side to side to keep going in a straight line, popping noise in turns. If you expierience any of those, get it checked out.

Well I went out to start the replacement and found that the hub turns while trying to get the 36mm nut off. How do you keep it from turning? I read somewhere that you can put it in 4x4 - tried that and it still turns... Could I put the wheel back on and let it rest slightly to keep it from turning while I bust the BMF 36mm nut loose or would that be inadvisable?

EDIT - OK - I figured it out - I had to keep the motor running, put it in 4x4, then in park and then bust the 36mm BMF nut loose - then shut the engine off. You may want to add that important tidbit of info to the how-to for 4x4 newbies like me :D

You could do this numerous different ways. #1 on my list would be a pry bar through the lugs with the lug nuts installed. Just use a flat pry bar and maybe rotate the steering so you can better hold both.

*EDIT* - Ok so... #1 really is use an air impact on it, but not everyone has a compressor in their garage...

Yes you could leave teh truck on the ground and take that nut off, then jack it up.

One of those things you forget when you have air tools.


Putting it in 4x4 is also a good idea. I won't have thought of that. [sm=goodidea.gif]

I had my wife hold the brakes down while I loosened it, since I had it in the air already. :D

Thanks for the great 'How To' Hanr3 (http://www.blazerforum.com/showProfile.asp?memid=679). I am about to embark on this jobwith my 2000 LT 4x4. I just turned 49,000 and noticed the front end getting noisey. Brakes didn'tquiet it down,so I figure the bearings must be getting ready to go. Thanks to your article I have ref pics I can look at. Very nice!
I found a place in NY (MAC Auto Parts)that sellsthe bearingsfor $89 eawith a 'lifetime warranty'. Wonder how they would work out? Anyonehear of or have dealings with this company?
Here's a link:
http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=1758968

Thanks again
ChevyDave
RI
2000 Blazer LT 4X4

I've never seen a hub assembly with a lifetime warranty. It says "asian manufacturer" -- hmmm good luck with that. You may have isssues trying to redeem that warranty. I went with the Timken bearings from Autozone. They're twice the price but I figure the quality is worth it in the long run as I plan on keeping my Blazer quite a while...

I'm doing a lot better than I thought I would with this job, PB Blaster and a breaker bar have been my best friends. I'm at the point where both assemblies are unbolted and loose, just not coming off the spline. I've soaked the crap out of the CV axle where it meets the hub on the outside, squirted some behind the hub, too. Any tricks on how to get the hub assembly off the spline? I've been gently prying off the steering knuckle but don't want to cause any damage to the knuckle itself.

Just keep soaking and prying?

EDIT: Ah, I see in the 'Related Threads' that a puller may be necessary. Didn't see that in Hanr3's How-To. Could I have caused any damage trying to pull on the CV axle?

2nd EDIT: What size puller should I get? Is it a universal thing or do I need a specific size?

3rd EDIT: Well the passenger's side came out easily. It's the driver's side that's giving me grief. Guess that was the worse of the two, eh?

I used the 5/10 ton 3-jaw puller tool from autozone (what ever the largest one is, the other smaller 2-ton one or whatever doesnt have enough strength). Just keep at it and eventually it will come, this is the part of the job that is time consuming, since it is sort of a time thing, rather than actual force on it (since you don't want to break anything).

I have to replace the hub bearing on the drivers side now since i screwed it up and sort of pulled it apart when I was taking stuff apart for the ball joints, so eventually i will get to fixing it.

Well the hours listed for my local Advance says 8 on Sunday, but looks like they clsoe at 7. Gonna huff it tomorrow to be there by 7:30AM and get what I need (the Wife's Grand Am sprung another leak in a return line again on the way to the Auto Show, don't want to put another $200 in it if I don't have to). Thanks for the info Lenny!

No Problem. Good luck and hope you get it fixed soon. I know when I did the balljoints on my truck, we went at a leisurely pace and the blazer was out of commision for 4 days, since timings of when things broke and when the store was open, plus it was cold outside at the time.

ORIGINAL: swartlkk
While you're at it, it probably would be a good time to do a brake job. With a worn wheel hub, your rotor may be oddly worn due to the angle at which it was sitting. The caliper is held on the steering knuckle, while the worn hub was allowing the wheel/rotor to lean in at the top. A decent (don't go cheap) set of rotors and brake pads would be a good idea. Like I said though, DO NOT go with the cheapest stuff. The quality sucks!


That quote is from this post (http://www.blazerforum.com/m_6726/tm.htm) that came up under a search for 'hub assembly'. I got the gear puller and it came out quite easily. Buttoned everything back up, did everything recommended in this How-To. Sprayed rotors and pads down with brake parts cleaner. Put some grease on the O-ring. Put anti-sieze on the bearing bolts, the lugs themselves, and the CV axle spline. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. VOILA! The whub-whub-whub sound is gone...for the most part. The old ones were starting to make noise even going straight, and were noticably louder in turns no matter the speed, but loudest and the highway speeds. The new ones don't make any noise at all straight, no noises at highway speed turns (around bends) but when I went to slow down to 15mph to turn onto a side road I could hear the all familiar sound.

Here's where the quote comes in. Since it only happened under braking at low speeds (no sound at highway speed braking), is it as simple as replacing rotors and pads? Would the rear bearings have anything to do with it?

EDIT: Added pics of the old bearings.


local://upfiles/5485/963D64ABCE554E90B162E9AB707B493D.jpg

local://upfiles/5485/FFBADBCA9C01415B8C4FE7200B60FE82.jpg

ok so i wish I had came to this section BEFORE yesterday. The noises started early yesterday and i knew what they meant, but I finished my errands first, then took it to my brother-in-law's to have him give a 2nd opnion on the driver side. he shook it and said yep. We looked at it in the Hayne's manual, and since it mentioned requiring pullers, which he didn't have, we decided to get it to Les Schwab real quick. it broke on the way and I3 wheeled into their parking lot. it's going to be $401 after tax for JUST the driver side, and now I see I could have done both sides with high quality parts, and it would have only taken a few hours. I am confused as to this thread I can't figure out, is an actualy puller required, or is there "other" ways to DIY with prybars and such? now I need to figure out if the passenger side needs to be done soon or if it will be ok for my cross state 3 day weekend dirve this weekend... 99blazer 4x4x4 ls. 82xxx miles.

are there torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing asm on and the nut that holds on the cv shaft?

I wish I would have come across this post three days ago. I just got my ride out of the shop for this very thing. I could have saved some money. Oh well, I did save time just dropping it at the shop. I was busythis week.

ORIGINAL: ncpreacherboy1
are there torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing asm on and the nut that holds on the cv shaft?


Not sure of the three bolts that hold the assembly on but the CV axle nut is 103 ft/lbs. Chevy Lover had torque specs posted for nearly everything imaginable a little while ago, you could always run a search or PM if you can't find what you're looking for.

Hub/Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts - 77 ftlbs (105Nm)
Wheel Hub Bolts - 103 ftlbs (140Nm)

Found the Timken's on rockauto.com for 103.79 but i don't see a sensor do you think it still comes with the abs sensor? Same part number. Great post going to do this next check.

Any difference on 2WD models vs the 4WD that's illustrated?

Probably internal differences in the bearing load capacity as well as the absence of the spline internal to the hub bore that is required for the 4wd front CV shafts.

The instructions worked great. I was able to change it out no sweat. I loosened the three bolts on the back of the hub and it popped right out, no extra effort needed...gotta love 2WD.

Okay, make me the 4th computer programmer to complete this task.

Things went very smooth. I used a puller, which I picked up at the auto parts store while I was getting the other supplies for this project, since it was only $19 for a 6" 3-jaw puller. I had no problems getting the old hub off at all, the puller helped quite a bit. There was one slight hiccup with the rubber O-ring. I put the O-ring into the slot in the steering knuckle, and held it in place with Vaseline. I put the new hub on, and using the 3 bolts to pull the hub back into the steering knuckle. It wasn't until it was almost all the way on, that I noticed the O-ring had started pushing out the back! So I had to take it back off, but this time I put the O-ring on the new hub instead. This seemed to do the trick.

One thing about the anti-seize. I've read in a couple places to never put anti-seize on the wheel lug bolt threads, and to avoid it in general on bolts that are to be tightened to a specific torque, as well as avoiding any oil or grease on the threads, too. So I only put the anti-seize on the axle splines. I didn't have a problem getting any of the bolts off, which have been there since the truck was new in 2000.

Anyway, thanks!
-- Kevin

Another Computer Geek Here... This was the best post i've seen yet :-) The only problem I had was getting the hub assembly off. Tried to do it by hand, then I went to walmart and picked up one of those $30 electric impact guns that plugs into the cigarette lighter. When i bought it i said to myself "there is no way this will be powerful enough" Well sure enought it worked great! a little slow, but it worked. The thing basically spins really really fast, then kicks the socket every few seconds.. very cool

Thanks for posting this howto!

Hi i havea 90 fullsized chevy blazer with manual locking hubs. i recently replaced the rear axle and want to put a new front axle in as well but the axle i want to put in has auto locking hubs. i want to put the manual locking hubs on the new axle can you tell me how to do this. Thank you

Hanr3 a big thank you for this thread! You saved me a lot of time and money!

Well I finally got the new bearings installed on my 2000 LT 4x4. Picked them up at Sadler Power Train on E-Bayfor $57 ea ($129 pr.shipped) with the ABS sensor (Federal Mogul).It was nicegetting rid of that annoying whine I endured for month's before I finally replaced them. This thread was invaluable in helping to make this the easy job it turned out to be. Saved me a bunch of cash as well. Much appreciation to all who contributed, especially Hanr3. I'm certain many others will benefit from this in the future as well, good job and thanks again.

Well I went out to start the replacement and found that the hub turns while trying to get the 36mm nut off. How do you keep it from turning? I read somewhere that you can put it in 4x4 - tried that and it still turns... Could I put the wheel back on and let it rest slightly to keep it from turning while I bust the BMF 36mm nut loose or would that be inadvisable?

EDIT - OK - I figured it out - I had to keep the motor running, put it in 4x4, then in park and then bust the 36mm BMF nut loose - then shut the engine off. You may want to add that important tidbit of info to the how-to for 4x4 newbies like me :D


My mechanic buddy said to put a drift, or punch, or screw driver through caliper into brake disk vanes. I'm about to try it right now. - matt

p.s. i have a 5 speed, so gotta try something else!

Here's a question about this.
I replaced ball joints and wheel bearings today, and when going to stop, the ABS kicks on and I can barely stop at all! I almost rolled thru a stop sign at my corner.
When I slam on the brakes, I stop like I should. But when I hit them lightly, the ABS goes into crazy mode on dry pavement and won't allow me to stop.

Any ideas on this would be much appreciated.

Here's a question about this.
I replaced ball joints and wheel bearings today, and when going to stop, the ABS kicks on and I can barely stop at all! I almost rolled thru a stop sign at my corner.
When I slam on the brakes, I stop like I should. But when I hit them lightly, the ABS goes into crazy mode on dry pavement and won't allow me to stop.

Any ideas on this would be much appreciated.

Same problem with mine. For a temporary fix pull your ABS fuse (it's a 60 amp in the fuse box on the hood). This will throw your ABS lights on.
Now, to fix the problem - Did you replace the wheel speed sensors when you replaced your hub? they should have came with a new one. Mine is a bad driver side sensor. They're famous for rusting out and getting rust under the sensor which causes it to lift and give a bad reading (in turn locking up the ABS).
Start with looking at the sensors.

Thanks, I'll pull that fuse today. I'd hate to plow into somebody in front of me at 5mph!

The hub assy's each came with a new speed sensor. these units were purchased new, so they're rust free. I checked each sensor for resistance and got reasonable results, so I don't know whats happening. Perhaps the front sensors don't jive with the rear sensors?? (ie. rears throw different voltage than the new front ones, thereby engaging the abs?)


Ugh, one more thing to fix.....