I just picked this up on Saturday. I got it really cheap based on the knowledge that it had a proble with random dieing issues. The previous owner replaced the:

distributor, pick up coil in the distributor, ignition module, coil, plug wires, plugs,coil, fuel pump, timing chain

I found out when Ipicked it up that he also switched computers trying to solve the problem.

Here is the problem. When I started it to warm up it ran for 5 minutes, then died, no sputtering, just dead, like someone turned the key off.

I started it back up then left, filled up and went about 3 miles then it started to die while driving. It would die, then pick back up, backfire, then keep going. Backfired so bad one time it blew the side of the muffler out.

After I got it home and was tinkering with it in the yard I had interesting event. It tried to turn over with just the key in the on position, not trying to start. After this happend, I started it and tapped on the ignition switch and sure enough, it died.

Finally to the question.

I will check the fuel pressure later today, but I was wonder if anyone had an issure with the ignition switch causing problems.

If anyone has any input, please let me know. The Blazer itself is in really good condition. I picked up in a trade and have right at $600 in it so far so I am willing to spend some money and time on this to get it into dependable driving condition.

Other than the dieing/backfire problem, it starts and drives down the road fine.

At least it'll be a fairly easy fix! The first gens are pretty easy ignition wise, as far as I know, anyway... You should be able to head to either a junkyard or local autoparts store and pick up a new ignition for $10 - $20...

Not sure on how the wires are connected on that particular year, but might even just be loose... Open the steering column and take a look...

The ignition lock cylinder where you put the key turns a gear that moves a rod down to the lower part of the column, where the switch is, under the lower trim piece. I have had these switche fail, but not that often, the contacts in them are HUGE, and not that prone to failure like the newer ones thta have tiny contacts. I would play with the lock cylinder a little more and see if that was just a coincidence, or not, then if it does continue to die, then I would replace it just because of the age of the truck, and how inexpensive the part is. Good luck and keep us posted, Korey

A cheaper test is to get a colum out of the bone yard (avg. price of $35)

There is a chance that the rods are mis-aligned or that the Ignition Modual there on the colum has slipped (if it had ever been replaced).
I have seen it where they replace that modual and then they did not align it up, start a few dozen times and OPPS bent rods or the Modual moves out of alignment.

Ok, first thanks for the replys, second, think I have problems solved.

The rotor under the distributor cap was melted to the point of being deformed, changed that $3. Replaced the Ignition Control Module $40, and the Coil $50. The distributor was supposed to be brand new and the ICM looked brand new but luckly I had my father in law visiting and he had problems with this on other GM models. Changed the coil anyway even though it may not have been bad.

All in all it looks like the probem is solved with $93 parts.

Now all I need is a new muffler.

Speaking of, anyone running flowmaster and if so, which Series 40, 50?

I've only heard of people running 40 series flowmasters on these things... I'm thinking of trying the 50, when I get the money for it...

I prefer Glasspacks.

Glad you got it fixed.

I hope you replaced the cap also. If you replaced the rotor but not the cap, you could have the problem resurface again. In my experence I only get ACDelco caps, or NAPA Echlin. Great to hear you got it fixed!! Korey.

A new cap will be had today.

Plus probably a 50 series flowmaster. I have one on my fullsize truck but did not know how it would sound on a v6.

You guys will appreciate this story. Its 6:00 and I am speeding into the NAPA parking lot trying to get there before close. We are fortunate to have a good small shop that still has people working there who know about cars, not just counter jockeys. But anyway, they are shutting the door as I pull up but open back up to get me the parts I needed. Problems was their computer was already shut down so they couldnot ring up the sale. Here is the best part, they simple hand wrote a ticket and told me to come back on Monday to pay then. I really thought that kind of service was gone. I know it may seem like a small thing, but I appreciate it and it makes up for paying a little more for parts in the past.